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Class 22 Diesel (next project)

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Ron Laden30/08/2019 11:10:15
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The axle die springs arrived which I have fitted to the bogies, I went for the red ones which I consider to be medium/heavy and it looks as if they are just about right. Each pair of batteries (14kg) will sit directly over the centre of the bogie plus I estimate a further 4 kgs at each bogie from chassis/body. The piccie below shows one of the bogies with a pair of batteries plus some ballast which I added to make up the weight. The spring compressed approx 2.5 mm which leaves 6mm of travel in the suspension which I think should be ok.

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Edited By Ron Laden on 30/08/2019 11:12:58

Ron Laden31/08/2019 15:19:33
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Fancied some lathe work this morning so made a start on the buffers using the guide rod method for creating the convex face. I did the 0-4-0 buffers this way after some of you guys told me of it, it is so simple to do and works a treat. I put a square up to the face to show the convex, I went with a 220mm radius on 50mm diameter.

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Edited By Ron Laden on 31/08/2019 15:20:15

Ron Laden02/09/2019 09:19:29
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Turned the first of the buffers to a shape and type I,m happy with. To the mill next as the base mounting plate is square plus I currently dont have a deep enough parting tool so I will cut it off with a slitting saw. The buffer face is the oval type and I think I will shape that by hand.

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SillyOldDuffer02/09/2019 10:31:36
4868 forum posts
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Posted by Ron Laden on 02/09/2019 09:19:29:


Turned the first of the buffers to a shape and type I,m happy with. To the mill next as the base mounting plate is square plus I currently dont have a deep enough parting tool so I will cut it off with a slitting saw. The buffer face is the oval type and I think I will shape that by hand.

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Very nice!

As you seem to pick skills up quickly why not have a go at turning the oval as well? In theory, offsetting the job's centre in a 4-jaw will cut one side of an oval, then offset equally in the opposite direction to put the same curve on the other side. It won't be a perfect geometric oval, but could be finished to look good by hand as necessary. The advantage of turning is producing four identical buffers without lots of manual work. This assumes there's enough swing on your lathe; check with a dimensioned drawing.

Be warned - I've never tried it myself and would practice on lots of scrap first!

Dave

Ron Laden02/09/2019 16:54:41
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1472 forum posts
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Thanks Dave, thats a good idea so I did a quick rough and ready check with the buffer offset in the 4 jaw and a marker pen in the tool holder. I will obviously need to calculate the offset and the tool position more accurately to bring me close to the finished shape but as you suggest it should reduce the hand work and will be repeatable on all four buffers.

Thanks again, Ron.

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Ron Laden05/09/2019 08:24:20
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Just experimenting with a bit of added detail, turned up some bearing caps and added some pipe work. This was a bit thrown together this morning, the final finish will be better plus there is more to add but it doesnt take much to improve the look of it I think.

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Ron Laden13/09/2019 08:02:41
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Chain drilling the chassis rail side walls for clearance at the bogie positions, 2" x 1" x 3/16" alu angle back to back to get a matched pair. I did remember (just) to set the depth stop to prevent drilling the vice..smiley

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Ron Laden14/09/2019 08:08:11
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1472 forum posts
260 photos

You cant beat some early morning (5am) smiley machining to get the day off to a good start.

Anyway, 2 x 46 holes later, waste pieces removed and the angled ends cut and filed to shape it was back on the mill to clean back the drilled edges. Its a case of sliding the work along so as not to get too far away from the vice but it works well enough.

I would have used a 10mm 2 flute carbide alu cutter but its past its best so need to get another one. So it was a case of having to use a 8mm 3 flute coated HSS cutter from ARC,s premium range. I am really impressed with this cutter I have used it on both steel and alu with great results, think I will get a 10mm version also.

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Ron Laden16/09/2019 18:01:16
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1472 forum posts
260 photos

Today I machined and fitted the bogie mounting plates to the chassis rails so obviously I just had to offer up the bogies to see how it looks, something must be wrong....it all fits..smiley

A lot more to add to the chassis but awaiting some material to continue, also material for the traction engine. I must admit I thought I was mad and biting off more than I could chew running the engine and loco builds side by side but it seems to work. I,m enjoying both of them and its good fun which is what its all about I guess.

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Edited By Ron Laden on 16/09/2019 18:01:48

Ron Laden22/10/2019 10:00:37
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1472 forum posts
260 photos

I have put the traction engine to one side for now to put some time into the class 22, the loco is a much quicker build and it would be good to have it finished for late spring next year.

I made up and fitted 3 frame spreaders, of which the 2 end ones also serve as buffer plates. The chassis is very simple 2 x alu angle side beams 2" x 1" x 3/16", 2 x steel bogie mount/swivel plates 3" x 1/2", 3 spreaders 2" x 1,2" alu bar. The top of the chassis beams will have 3mm steel plates connecting it all together, simple but strong.

Just started making up some detail parts for the bogie side plates plus the sides of the chassis beams.

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Ron Laden23/10/2019 16:33:50
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1472 forum posts
260 photos

I need to silver solder a hex head bolt to a 3mm steel plate, assuming thats possible of course..?, having no experience with silver soldering I would appreciate some guidance on suitable solder and flux type.

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 23/10/2019 16:34:21

3404623/10/2019 16:56:02
799 forum posts
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Ron

CuP Alloys on 01623-707955 are the people I buy from and will always advise as to best materials .

Bill

Dave Smith 1423/10/2019 17:21:09
82 forum posts
7 photos

Ron

Buy one of CUP's EF starter packs, they are about £16, has flux and 2 x 1 mm dia and 2 x 1.5 mm dia 455 rods which will be fine for what you want to do. It also includes a hints and tips document. I bought one when I first started silver soldering.

Dave

Ron Laden23/10/2019 20:28:07
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1472 forum posts
260 photos

Thanks guys, I will order a starter pack from CuP, sounds good.

Ron

Ron Laden24/10/2019 09:17:36
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1472 forum posts
260 photos

As well as the starter pack, I see from CuP,s website they also do 455 in paste form, recommended for small or awkward parts. I wonder if that would also be worth getting I can see how that could be useful but as I mentioned I,m new to all this.

Edited By Ron Laden on 24/10/2019 09:18:08

3404624/10/2019 10:18:50
799 forum posts
6 photos
Posted by Ron Laden on 24/10/2019 09:17:36:

As well as the starter pack, I see from CuP,s website they also do 455 in paste form, recommended for small or awkward parts. I wonder if that would also be worth getting I can see how that could be useful but as I mentioned I,m new to all this.

Edited By Ron Laden on 24/10/2019 09:18:08

Ron

As suggested in my previous post - why not call them, tell them what you need to do and ask for their advice ?

They really are rhe best people to advise you.

Bill

Ron Laden30/10/2019 16:53:20
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1472 forum posts
260 photos

I am thinking of moulding a couple of parts and giving JB Weld (original) a try as the material but before I do I wonder does it machine and tap ok. I have filed and sanded it in the past and its fine but never machined or tapped it, the parts wont be heavily loaded so as long as I can get a half decent thread for fixing it will be fine.

JasonB30/10/2019 17:13:27
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16587 forum posts
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Certainly machines ok,not tried tapping it but they say it can be done

Ron Laden04/11/2019 08:07:51
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1472 forum posts
260 photos

Would anyone mind double checking my school boy level calculations, a taper from 22mm dia to 28mm dia over a length of 30mm which I make is a taper angle of 5.71 degrees..?

3404604/11/2019 09:08:15
799 forum posts
6 photos

Ron -- google calculator gives nominal 6 degrees and precise of 5.77 so your figure looks good.

Bill

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