|Brett Hurt||27/02/2018 22:56:17|
|23 forum posts|
I work on old phonograps those old things you crank up. And on working on this one I broke a part and need too know if I can silver solder it back. And what do I need for this, I have never silver soldered?.
|Neil Wyatt||27/02/2018 23:06:41|
16568 forum posts
Yes. Even I can do it
One approach is to heat bit red hot and let it gcool, this burns off surface carbon. Then flux, reheat and silver solder as normal.
Keith Hale's book goes into some detail on teh subject.
|Alan Charleston||28/02/2018 06:21:21|
|76 forum posts|
If you have a nice crisp break with the two bits fitting snugly together you might like to try gluing it together with an epoxy glue such as araldite. This can give a high strength joint which may be OK for your application.
|Tractor man||28/02/2018 06:30:59|
|426 forum posts|
If the part is under strain such as part of the clockwork mechanism I thunk silver solder would be best. But if it's not load bearing I would agree that gluing the break would be far easier.
I use JB weld which is available on line but apparently Halfords do a similar type metal epoxy that is just as good. Worth a try before the problem of silver soldering if you've never done it before.
Best regards Mick
|Speedy Builder5||28/02/2018 07:10:32|
|1819 forum posts|
As Neil says, but after the first heat up to dull red, let it cool and wire brush the joint to remove the 'burnt off' carbon, then re-heat to silver solder or braze.
|Stewart Hart||28/02/2018 07:11:15|
602 forum posts
As Neil said but give the parts a good wire brushing to get rid of the ash/crud after it cools, I've used this method and it worked for me.
|331 forum posts|
The few times I have done it I sandblasted the parts first. Niko.
|Brett Hurt||28/02/2018 13:24:51|
|23 forum posts|
thanks for the info
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