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Myford Super 7 metric change gears

Myford 7 with quick change box

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Peter Hogan 212/01/2018 17:58:50
7 forum posts

Hi all.

can I just get the gears listed inside the gear cover and fit them or will I need the special quadrant ?

Thanks in advance.

Pete H

Hillclimber12/01/2018 18:24:42
avatar
138 forum posts
36 photos

First question. Do you have a gearbox? Whether you do or not determines the answer....

Cheers, Colin

Peter Hogan 212/01/2018 18:47:26
7 forum posts
Posted by Hillclimber on 12/01/2018 18:24:42:

First question. Do you have a gearbox? Whether you do or not determines the answer....

Cheers, Colin

Yep, the gearbox was fitted from new I thing, 1968 by the serial No.

Pete

Hillclimber12/01/2018 19:05:01
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138 forum posts
36 photos

In which case you do need the metric conversion set, including quadrant, I'm afraid.

Alternatively, you could just take the gearbox off and sell it to me, which makes the conversion much easier.....

Cheers, Colin

Brian Wood12/01/2018 19:46:28
1942 forum posts
37 photos

Peter,

Arc Euro are selling my book for £12.95 on gearing for screwcutting which describes the simple modification you can make to your S7 and use any mandrel gears up to 70 + teeth, matched with the selected gearbox choice to generate Metric, BA, DP, Module and several other threading pitches without have to buy the Myford metric quadrant

Another benefit is that you retain the fine feed option throughout and you get to keep your gearbox!!

Regards

Brian

Peter Hogan 212/01/2018 20:40:58
7 forum posts
Posted by Brian Wood on 12/01/2018 19:46:28:

Peter,

Arc Euro are selling my book for £12.95 on gearing for screwcutting which describes the simple modification you can make to your S7 and use any mandrel gears up to 70 + teeth, matched with the selected gearbox choice to generate Metric, BA, DP, Module and several other threading pitches without have to buy the Myford metric quadrant

Another benefit is that you retain the fine feed option throughout and you get to keep your gearbox!!

Regards

Brian

Now that is the way to promote your hard work.

You'r the man for me, add onr to you sold list!

Pete.

Peter Hogan 212/01/2018 20:43:06
7 forum posts
Posted by Hillclimber on 12/01/2018 19:05:01:

In which case you do need the metric conversion set, including quadrant, I'm afraid.

Alternatively, you could just take the gearbox off and sell it to me, which makes the conversion much easier.....

Cheers, Colin

Sorry Colin, I rather fancy keeping it most of my stuff is imperial!!laugh

Pete

JohnF12/01/2018 20:54:39
avatar
852 forum posts
102 photos

Peter, If you want to use the original Myford method with your gearbox then yes you need a special quadrant and some extra change wheels.

However see the links below and you can get very, very close to all the metric pitches you need with much less fuss and less cost, you need only a few change wheels to change then use the gearbox as well and bob's you uncle.

There are some links in these posts as well -- hope this helps John

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=125630&p=4

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=131925

Hopper13/01/2018 03:20:39
avatar
3657 forum posts
72 photos

Having bought a copy of Brian Wood's book, I can verify that what he says is true. Well worth the money.

Hillclimber13/01/2018 09:19:08
avatar
138 forum posts
36 photos

Guess I'm going to have to buy one of Brian's books too.... !

Brian Wood13/01/2018 09:26:53
1942 forum posts
37 photos

Now----steady on chaps, but please do and get one for a friend as well.---!!

Brian

Andrew Tinsley13/01/2018 16:05:18
911 forum posts

Brian's book is a gold mine of information and it is beautifully produced too. Well up to coffee table standards. That is where my copy lives, just to confuse visitors.

Andrew.

norm norton14/01/2018 12:54:55
94 forum posts
5 photos

Hi Peter

If you have the gearbox fitted then you do not need a metric quadrant to be able to cut metric and BA threads.

There is a simple solution using swaps of the tumbler feed gear and this has been written about many times. This is what Brian's book describes. There is a link here to this forum **LINK** when the subject was raised a few years ago.

I can supply you with a complete table of all the tumbler gear swaps if you message me with your email.

Norm

Edited By norm norton on 14/01/2018 13:00:55

Edited By norm norton on 14/01/2018 13:03:14

norm norton14/01/2018 13:07:22
94 forum posts
5 photos

Printed gears is a good idea. Of course the 33 and 34 teeth tumbler items were made and sold by our friend John Stevenson, who is no longer with us.

Norm

Karl Mansson01/08/2018 15:29:17
33 forum posts
17 photos

Hello!

I am soon to become the owner of a ML7 WITHOUT the gearbox. I also Think that I will have to invest in most of the changewheels for it. I've been trying to read up on metric threading on the ML7 but Everything I've found has been for a lathe with a gearbox. One entry in this thread mentioned the "conversion being much simpler" if there is no gearbox involved. So far I understand that a 120/127 tooth compound Wheel would be the most accurate. Is that correct? Would that apply for a ML7 with no gearbox as well?

Plus, as I'm probably restocking the changewheel supply and will mostly be turning metric threads, should I look into getting something other than the base kit of gears for the ML7?

All help appreciated!

Best regards

Karl

John Haine01/08/2018 16:48:59
2591 forum posts
133 photos

Karl, as has been widely documented here and elsewhere, you can cut most metric threads with perfectly acceptable accuracy without a 127 tooth wheel, at least for fasteners.

Martin of Wick01/08/2018 18:10:12
91 forum posts
4 photos

So far I understand that a 120/127 tooth compound Wheel would be the most accurate. Is that correct? Would that apply for a ML7 with no gearbox as well?

Two 21s and a 63 with the usual changewheel set should cover most of the metrics

Karl Mansson01/08/2018 18:32:11
33 forum posts
17 photos
Posted by John Haine on 01/08/2018 16:48:59:

Karl, as has been widely documented here and elsewhere, you can cut most metric threads with perfectly acceptable accuracy without a 127 tooth wheel, at least for fasteners.

Thank you! And thanks for your patience, I'm new both to the forum and to machine lathes. I'm coming from a Unimat SL and threadcutting using dies so this is an all new rabbit hole to me.

Karl

Karl Mansson01/08/2018 18:35:27
33 forum posts
17 photos
Posted by Martin of Wick on 01/08/2018 18:10:12:

So far I understand that a 120/127 tooth compound Wheel would be the most accurate. Is that correct? Would that apply for a ML7 with no gearbox as well?

Two 21s and a 63 with the usual changewheel set should cover most of the metrics

Thanks! In what arrangement would I use those wheels? I'm assuming they would not be used together but 21 for some metric threads and 63 for others?

I've been looking around for a bit and every thread I find is either for a Super 7 or for an ML7 with the gearbox. Is there a table somewhere for the changewheel setup for metric threads without using the gearbox? Or maybe I'm just confusing things and myself, maybe the gearbox settings can be transferred to the changewheels?

Karl

Michael Gilligan01/08/2018 19:30:15
avatar
13823 forum posts
603 photos

Karl,

I'm sure you will get loads of avice on this one [it's a favourite topic around here]

I will limit mine, for the moment, to Read This: **LINK**

http://conradhoffman.com/metricthreading.htm

... It's a concise and accessible summary.

MichaelG.

.

img_2084.jpg

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 01/08/2018 19:42:58

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