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Hemingway Hacksaw

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Mark Elen 125/11/2018 15:14:48
116 forum posts
197 photos

Thanks Gents for your comments.

Yes NDIY, it’s the collet for holding the crank disc onto the shaft that runs through the gearbox. I’m going to have a go at it as per the drawings.

I’ve not got a lot done on the hacksaw this week, but I have finished off the Rotary Table Fixture Plate:


I have also nearly got the QCTP stud and quick release made:



I think I’m going to make the handle for it from the piece I scrapped trying to screwcut the stud on the first attempt. I’m going to thread it into the nut M10, so if it turns out to be too short, I can always make another a bit longer.



Mark Elen 125/11/2018 17:47:33
116 forum posts
197 photos

I made a start on the handle this evening, turning odd the rubbish thread and bringing it down to 10 mm for threading with a die.

One of the things I bought this week from ARC was a tailstock die holder. Unfortunately, the setscrew that works the slide, although it has been turned down, it hasn’t been turned down enough. The slot dimension is 9.5mm, the turned down screw was 9.6.

I used the end of the handle to make a 6mm mandrel and take the screw to size:






Mark Elen 126/11/2018 15:49:32
116 forum posts
197 photos

Bit more done today,

There was not a hope of threading the handle with the cheapo die I had, so I got set up and screwcut it with the lathe.

Handle all finished, a couple of flats milled onto it and the nut set up, drilled and tapped M10.

All put together and checked, then stripped, polished up, degreased with IPA and blacked, it’s all now sat lathered in oil.






Neil Wyatt26/11/2018 16:13:52
16670 forum posts
687 photos
75 articles

Is your 'quick release nut' just one with a handle, or have you machined it so you can tilt it and lift it off once it's loose?


Mark Elen 126/11/2018 16:17:28
116 forum posts
197 photos

Hi Neil,

It’s nothing that fancy. Just a nut with a handle.



not done it yet26/11/2018 16:38:14
3495 forum posts
15 photos

Most of the time one only needs to turn the toolpost to a slightly different angle. Mine has a ring spanner sitting, often almost permanently, on the nut of mine, that secures the toolpost to the top slide. Mark may well need another washer to get the handle in the right position. I just fit the spanner in any handy position.

Mark Elen 126/11/2018 19:08:49
116 forum posts
197 photos

Thanks Gents👍

I did take that into consideration NDIY, I did the nut up hand tight, marked up the angle with a permanent marker but allowed about 15 degrees for proper tightening, that second photo above is with it tightened right up, the handle has finished up pretty much parallel with the lathe bed. I’m very happy with how it has gone together.

While I was shopping at ARC last week, I picked a R8 Slitting Saw Arbour and a couple of saws. Ian made me aware that the saws wouldn’t fit the arbour with the key as supplied, as the key is 4mm but the saw slot for the key is only 3.

I got set up, .5mm off each side of the key and .5 off the top, it felt like microsurgery compared to what I have been doing. There was very little to hold in the vice, so I took it really easy taking .1 slices off and making sure I was conventional milling. Result:


Thanks for the heads up Ian👍




Edited By Mark Elen 1 on 26/11/2018 19:13:54

Mark Elen 127/11/2018 14:05:33
116 forum posts
197 photos

Late last night, I got the 4 jaw set up on the lathe and clocked in the fixed vice jaw block. Turned the spigot and drilled and tapped the M12 thread.


Only one problem, the bolts supplied in the kit won’t fit..... they start, but after about a turn, they go tight. After lots of head scratching, I’ve worked out what’s happened. I’ve tapped it m12x1.5 not 1.75 as it should be....

Another silly mistake, at least the fix is pretty easy. I must get around to laminating a screwcutting chart and fix it up on the wall. Grr



Mark Elen 128/11/2018 20:21:05
116 forum posts
197 photos

I managed a half hour this evening. Got the fixed jaw locking device finished and the ends rounded off so that it fits the slot in the bottom of the vice riser. Photos show better than words.

I’m not overly happy with the finish on the riser block, but as it’s to dimensions, I’m going to leave it as is, as a reminder to me of my first attempt at fly cutting. It will add to the character😂




With the vice jaw on and just held together, I can get a .15mm feeler guage between. I’m hoping that will be enough to nip it down.

I also got the tool post handle loctited into the nut and on the lathe.




Mark Elen 101/12/2018 11:54:11
116 forum posts
197 photos

I got a few hours in the workshop yesterday and today, got the slide nut for the vice jaw to the point it now needs the lead screw hole drilling and tapping. I’ve come up with a plan for getting it in the right place - more on that when I get to it.

I also got set up and screwcut the threads on the lathe for the slide bar.






Excuse the mess on the bench...



Samsaranda01/12/2018 12:52:56
788 forum posts
5 photos

Mark, glad to see a bench with “work in progress” having seen so many workshop shots of “immaculate “ machines and benches I was getting an inferiority complex because my machines and bench always look “lived in”. Keep up the good work, enjoying your progress, keep posting.

Dave W

Mark Elen 101/12/2018 15:43:57
116 forum posts
197 photos

Hi Dave,

Thanks for your kind comments. I always have good intentions about keeping the workshop tidy, it just never happens.

The replacement screws for the vice jaws turned up in the post this morning, so i got those fitted up. I’m very happy with the result:


The fixed jaw nipped up tight and on the sliding jaw, I can slide a .05mm feeler gague under, but a .10mm won’t go. Beginners luck that one.



Mark Elen 102/12/2018 16:40:52
116 forum posts
197 photos

I got the slide bar weight done today. I’ve been pondering on how to hold it to machine it. I ended up holding it with the outside jaws of the 3 jaw and supporting it with the fixed steady:


I faced and chamfered both ends, then centre drilled and worked up to 12.5 mm from both ends. I finished off with a 1/2” reamer, then onto the mill to cross drill and tap M10. A bit of polishing up and finished:


I don’t know if that was the ‘best practice’ way of holding this, but I felt it was secure and it all went to plan.



Mark Elen 103/12/2018 19:38:22
116 forum posts
197 photos

Not much done today, as I’ve been busy working. I’ve come across a slight issue, in that I’m missing a chunk of 13/16 hex bar to make the collet nut. I can’t recall seeing it when I got the the kit... never mind I thought, I’ll just order a bit off e-bay. Not a chance. There is 3/4 or 22mm but no 13/16.

I did make a start on the collet, but as I’m going to screwcut the 5/8 BSF on the lathe, I could really do with making the nut first, so I can track progress of the thread.

I ended up ordering a chunk of 3/4.

Whilst pondering the collet, I’m unsure how to set up to cut the taper. I’m guessing I need to set the top slide up at 5 degrees to make the 10 degree taper as per the plan?



On another note, I was going to make the handle, but as it needs knurling and I don’t have a knurling tool, i ordered the ‘sensitive knurling tool’ kit from Hemingway, which arrived today. On unpacking, I was happy to find 4 A3 beautiful drawings to a similar standard of the 10 that came with the hacksaw. (Such a shame they are imperial and I’m metric, but I’m getting used to multiplying by 25.4...) All materials checked and correct. As with the hacksaw, they don’t scrimp on material, although, it’s not excessive either.


I spent a good hour tonight with the drawings trying to take in the detail. I’ll start a new thread for this build.



Mark Elen 121/01/2019 21:55:43
116 forum posts
197 photos

Ok, back on with the hacksaw build.

I made up a 5/8”BSF nut and the collet. I still need to slit the collet.





Edited By Mark Elen 1 on 21/01/2019 21:58:39

Mark Elen 122/01/2019 21:14:42
116 forum posts
197 photos

Tonight, I got the collet set up in a hex Stevenson’s block and sawed out the cuts. I got 90% done with the saw, the last bit I took out with a needle file.




Mark Elen 128/01/2019 17:42:27
116 forum posts
197 photos

I got the collet finished, then bored the crank wheel to 10 degree included. Mounted the wheel on a piece of 11mm silver steel using the collet.

The casting comes with loads of 'meat' to remove to get to final dimension. Here it is when I first started on it:


and here it is coming into dimension:



I have got it marked up and ready to mill out the slot for the adjustable stroke, but have been mulling over ways of holding it for milling. I'm leaning towards making up some soft jaws out of ali to hold it in the milling vice. - it would probably be quicker to just bolt it down to the table....



Mark Elen 101/02/2019 10:12:42
116 forum posts
197 photos

I decided to make up a set of soft jaws to hold the crank wheel.....

I have cut up a piece of 1" aluminium to fit the vice jaws and a couple of shorter pieces to hold the 'proper soft jaws' in the correct position.

I also took my own advice, that I gave Ron a few weeks ago, and bought a SCLCL 12mm Left hand boring bar to fit the boring head.

I used a right hand bar, cut down to fit the boring head to take out as much as I could, then swapped to my new left hand bar. First thing I had to do with the bar, was cut it down to fit.


I have still got a way to go, the sides of the cut are great, but the bottom has a few ridge marks. I'm sure for this it wont matter much, but I am trying to think of ways to clean these up.

Thinking about it, these would probably been better set up on the Rotary Table and end milled out.



Mark Elen 102/02/2019 16:40:48
116 forum posts
197 photos

I got to the limit of the boring head, as the head itself was going to hit the step on the soft jaws, so I changed over to the rotary table and end milled off the rest.


I also got started on one of the crank pins


And set it up in a square collet block to mill it down to 1/2” square for the crank wheel:




Mark Elen 103/02/2019 15:23:56
116 forum posts
197 photos

A bit more done today. I got the crank pin milled down to 1/2” square, then milled out the 1/2” slot in the crank wheel using a 8mm Ali slot drill. I finished off the corners very carefully using a needle file.






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