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The Workshop Progress thread 2018

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John Alexander Stewart05/03/2018 21:50:15
802 forum posts
53 photos
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 05/03/2018 20:43:20:

Well done John, looks great.

How long did it take you?

Neil

In terms of hours or the passage of time?

Passage of time - life gets in the way, and people (especially kids) come first. Workshop progress dropped to almost nothing for quite a while. Lets say, 20 years start to finish. Recently, some parts of it can be seen in the couple of ME articles I wrote regarding CNC machining.

I'm hoping my long-dormant "Ivatt" 2-6-0 (also in 3-1/2" gauge) will be running in 2019; the remaining big items are the cylinders and running gear. We'll see; crossing fingers that life keeps being stable for a while!

Neil Wyatt06/03/2018 09:28:31
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I had a feeling 'A fun project!' was a bit of a simplification

Rewarding to reach the end point on such long project,

mechman4808/03/2018 21:57:32
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2914 forum posts
454 photos

Caught up with my Vertical cross engine. made the base with some MDF offcut & 10mm pine. trial assembled, starting to look like some thing now, still a lot to do, any help with polishing aluminium top plate would be appreciated, I do have wet & dry emery paper plus a couple of buffing wheels & polish, just enquiring about other methods...

40. vscross trial assembly (1).jpg

40. vscross trial assembly (2).jpg

40. vscross trial assembly (5).jpg

George.

Jim Nic09/03/2018 12:11:01
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335 forum posts
197 photos

Indeed looking like summat now George.

Can't offer any advice re polishing the ali top plate, for my Popcorn I engine turned the base and then laquered it for protection. Seems to be working to keep it shiny and easy to wipe away dust and oil so I would certainly recommend a coat of laquer.

How are you going to connect the air (or steam) to it? It appears you have a hollow wood base so a connection in the side of the wood and then up through the MDF to the inlet valve would look neat.

Popcorn finished 5.jpg

This is just a brass turning with an M6 threaded hole for the connector glued in to a hole in the brown stuff and piped to the connector in the ali base.

Jim

mechman4809/03/2018 14:36:28
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2914 forum posts
454 photos

Jim

That's precisely what I'm going to do... thumbs up

George.

mechman4811/03/2018 00:47:27
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2914 forum posts
454 photos

Did a bit more on the vertical cross engine, mainly the base, but am having second thoughts on the colour scheme...

41. vscross finishing base & trial assembly (1).jpg

41. vscross finishing base & trial assembly (4).jpg

41. vscross finishing base & trial assembly (7).jpg

​... Considering overlaying some model railway brick work plasticard on the sides...??. Still have the pillars to drill for X arms etc . Open to suggestions!.... nice ones please, lets not degenerate to smuttiness...

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 11/03/2018 00:49:01

Edited By mechman48 on 11/03/2018 00:50:20

JasonB11/03/2018 07:31:23
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I think some thin flat wood or the Brick/Stone on the sides may tone things down a bit particularly if you are still intending to polish the entablature.

Jim Nic11/03/2018 11:19:50
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335 forum posts
197 photos

Bricks, for sure.

Jim

mechman4811/03/2018 12:09:38
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2914 forum posts
454 photos

thumbs up Thanks guys, got plenty of lolly sticks for cladding the cylinder, also deciding what colour to paint the pillars did get some cream & Aero blue rattle can sprays last week. hmmm decisions, decisions... thinking

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 11/03/2018 12:30:47

JasonB11/03/2018 17:42:20
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I made up the drip feed oiler for the Robinson X-Type, bit different from the usual ones which just use a short length of glass tube and flat end plates. This one is a wineglass form and the bowl was machined from 20mm acrylic rod, quite please with how it came up after working down through the Micro-Mesh grits.

Having painted the Root & Van Dervoort horizontal over the Christmas holiday I thought it was about time to put it together.

The green is a little washed out and is quite a bit stronger more along the lines of John Deere green.

Though when you take them like this the colour is less of an issue

No video of the painted engine running as when I was setting up the timing and governor I found the guy who started the model had made the governor arm 1/16" too short so the latch won't engage, hopefully make a replacement in the week and then give it a spin.

J

mechman4811/03/2018 18:35:26
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2914 forum posts
454 photos

JasonB... Niiiiice!

​George.

Samsaranda11/03/2018 19:45:47
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1116 forum posts
5 photos

George, Cream and Aero Blue go well together, they were the colours of our Corporation buses here in Eastbourne, till they went bust, the buses always looked smart in that livery, the Council still paint their street furniture in those colours.

Dave W

Jim Nic12/03/2018 00:32:35
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335 forum posts
197 photos

Stunning work on the oiler Jason.

And the Root and Van Dervoort is pretty impressive too, I love how the cart turned out.

Jim

mechman4813/03/2018 22:43:56
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2914 forum posts
454 photos

Modified the base colouring to brick effect. I've left the top small layer of tile showing to give the effect of tiling on top of the brick wall...? comments welcome...


42. vscross base colour change (2).jpg


42. vscross base colour change (3).jpg

Still a lot to do... but getting there.

​George.

Mark Rand13/03/2018 23:31:20
1013 forum posts
11 photos
Posted by mechman48 on 13/03/2018 22:43:56:

comments welcome...

Nice!

Jim Nic13/03/2018 23:37:29
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335 forum posts
197 photos

It's all a matter of personal taste of course but I think the brick effect looks a lot better than the previous all over tiling. Good choice.

Jim

mechman4814/03/2018 17:53:46
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2914 forum posts
454 photos

Did a bit more on the vertical cross, drilled & tapped entablature for bearing stands, fitted square pillar bases, found I didn't have long enough M4 fasteners to go through base into pillars so decided to redrill for M5 x 50 shcs which I had. Assembled & checked for operation... B****r me if the piston isn't bottoming in the cylinder...'oh dear me' says I, or words to that effect.
Stripped it all apart & checked all part dimensions... found the cross head o/all length out by 2 mm fortunately I could machine off he excess from where the piston rod locknut abuts to the cross head, sorted methinks... nooo! still bottoms out, what the dickens is going on I thinks... another strip down, checked again working from base to top, piston rod correct length, crank correct length, crosshead now corrected, pillars correct length etc. etc

​Sat there with the old grey matter burning, twiddling with the crankshaft asking myself what the ' fffflip' was going on...I was only twiddling with the problem in front of me wasn't I !, I checked the centre height of the crankshaft against the drawing... I'd only gone & misread the drawing & ended up making the bearing stands centre height 10mm too low... 'what a numb nuts you are George' I tell myself. So I was left with a dilemma, do I make another pair or find another solution. I didn't fancy going through making another pair so opted to make some 10mm packers & solder/ glue/ Loctite them to the bearing stands...sorted, for now!. Just goes to prove the old adage... Measure twice, nay peasants thrice I say, & cut once. Had enough by that time so cleaned up & called it a day...face 19

​George.

Jim Nic14/03/2018 20:04:57
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335 forum posts
197 photos

George

I did notice that you had located your nice brass spacers on top of the entablature whereas Stew's original drawings show them underneath. I thought you had done this to show off your brass polishing skills and had adjusted the pillar length to compensate. The difference would be 10mm.

The solution to your problem may be as simple as to locate the spacers between the pillars and the entablature.

Jim

mechman4814/03/2018 23:03:49
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2914 forum posts
454 photos

Aha! idea ​... Thanks Jim.... couldn't see the wood for the trees, will move them tomorrow.

​George.

Mark Rand15/03/2018 00:39:22
1013 forum posts
11 photos

I'm glad it's not just me that does thing like that blush.

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