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The Workshop Progress thread 2018

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jimmy b29/04/2018 17:20:06
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523 forum posts
29 photos

Thank you Joe.

I'm using this to power it

20180312_154943.jpg

Thank you for the info and the pictures. Hopefully I'll be able to take some pictures tomorrow.

Cheers Jim

Muzzer29/04/2018 20:19:30
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2904 forum posts
448 photos

Finished my ballnut bracket yesterday - drilling and machine tapping the M4 and M10 holes, chamfering them, then splitting the yoke in the bandsaw with 2 parallel cuts to form a 3mm slot. Finally, some edge breaking / deburring with diamond files and deburring tool.

Finished yoke

Finished yoke

The curious blue lighting effect is presumably due to the low light levels and the way iPhones work. It's almost dusk here and this was natural light from the skylights and windows. It's actually sitting on a piece of white A4 paper.

No obvious cockups and no broken tools. Good result!

Murray

mechman4830/04/2018 09:04:30
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2507 forum posts
375 photos

Yesterday ... assembled all the pieces for my vertical cross, did a trial attempt at timing, put some air into it, the brass inlet valve works ok,... but air is passing the spool valve, not sealing correctly... so it looks like another strip down & check on spool valve fit etc. Ho hum another one of those days...thinking

52.vscross flywheel trial fitting (3).jpg

George.

Andrew Johnston01/05/2018 13:49:08
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4897 forum posts
552 photos
Posted by Muzzer on 29/04/2018 20:19:30:

No obvious cockups and no broken tools. Good result!

Certainly is; I'm going to have to up my game on the CNC mill to match!

Andrew

John Haine02/05/2018 09:38:47
2668 forum posts
136 photos

Inspired by another thread, I got one of these 133 mm backplate castings from RDG...

casting.jpg

...and created a lot of cast iron dust to liberate this:

toolpost1.jpg

A new toolpost to mount my Dickson QC holder much more rigidly on my S7, replacing the topslide. A straightforward turning/milling job. As well as more rigidity I wanted to improve the repeatability of changing tools when CNC turning, so the post is located laterally by a fence down the side against the x-slide:

toolpost3.jpg

And by a stop at the end:

toolpost4.jpg

which is bolted down to a tee slot after pressing firmly against the base. So should I ever have to remove it then it can go back in the same position. There's also a dowel pin locating the Dickson block relative to the post to stop it shifting through the cutting force.

I will now need to recalibrate all the tools as the position will have changed a bit relative to the topslide.

Now I just need to clean up all the CI dust that seems to have covered everything in the workshop.

Michael Gilligan02/05/2018 10:26:10
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14155 forum posts
616 photos

Looks good, John yes

MichaelG.

john feeney02/05/2018 11:25:23
22 forum posts
23 photos

Hello Joe,

I have a Stettler 64-110 internal grinding machine. It has an internal spindle driven by a high frequency motor.Unfortunately this motor is beyond repair ( speed range was from 6000 to 24000). I have thought of using a "model" motor, probably a water cooled inrunnner. All these motors use an electronic speed control (ESC) and are generally low voltage and high current from a battery. What power supply system do you use ? is it battery or mains.

I have looked for mains supplied power supplies for electro plating, say 10V/ 50 Amp but quite expensive. Also how do you control the speed of the motor. ( I have flown model aircraft where the speed is controlled by the size of Prop. used)

The machine also has an air spindle which runs at 96000 rpm and can grind bores down to 0.8mm diameter. Don`t think I`ll be using it very often!

Regards

John Feeney

John Haine02/05/2018 13:26:17
2668 forum posts
136 photos

Lots of high current DC PSUs on eBay at reasonable prices - e.g. 12V @ 33A for £18.50 - what volts & amps do you need?

And look for "servo tester" on eBay - these are gadgets that generate the standard variable pulse set by a knob, to test servos and ESCs that would normally be connected to an RC receiver. Seem to cost about a fiver.

Neil Wyatt02/05/2018 16:52:34
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Moderator
16662 forum posts
687 photos
75 articles

Posted by Muzzer on 29/04/2018 20:19:30:

The curious blue lighting effect is presumably due to the low light levels and the way iPhones work. It's almost dusk here and this was natural light from the skylights and windows. It's actually sitting on a piece of white A4 paper.

Nice work.

The one-click auto adjust in Photo paint restores a much more natural colour balance. Did you have your phone camera's light balance set to 'tungsten'?

Roderick Jenkins02/05/2018 17:11:26
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1780 forum posts
459 photos

I, at long last, made striker arm for the Dore boring and facing head that I bought on ebay a couple of years ago

dore dh.jpg

dore dh s.jpg

This is a pretty cumbersome beast, not nearly as nice to use as my Arrand boring head, but it does have the facing function and screws onto my Sharp mill which has a Myford nose thread. By the way - Does anybody know where I can get a 3/8" indexable boring tool?

Cheers,

Rod

John Haine02/05/2018 17:32:12
2668 forum posts
136 photos

Rod, you could try JB Cutting tools.

Or make one?

Edited By John Haine on 02/05/2018 17:32:29

MW02/05/2018 18:00:40
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2050 forum posts
51 photos
Posted by John Haine on 02/05/2018 09:38:47:

Inspired by another thread, I got one of these 133 mm backplate castings from RDG...

casting.jpg....

You can be very creative with those backplate castings! I'm sure I've got three 5" castings laying around waiting to be done with one purpose in mind or another...

I was a little bit uninspired by the selection of "engineery" magazines on offer this week at WH smiths, so I struck out and went down a different alley for a change, the "wood worker" magazine

and I'd say I'm glad I did, lots of good tips, even for this hobby to be found in them. 

 

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 02/05/2018 18:02:53

mgnbuk02/05/2018 18:35:53
520 forum posts
13 photos

Rod,

How about one of these Ebay 352259180098 & turn it down from 10mm to 3/8" ?

Also available in 6, 7 & 8mm diameter taking the same CCMT0602** inserts to sleeve up. Searching "SCLCR" brings up most of them.

Nigel B

JasonB02/05/2018 20:03:24
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Moderator
16454 forum posts
1741 photos
1 articles

Rod, Glanze (Chronos) do a set, I have the 1/2" ones at the top of the page and use them all the time.

I'm not sure if a lathe boring bar will work as they tend to set the tip at an angle

Roderick Jenkins02/05/2018 21:23:51
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1780 forum posts
459 photos

Guys,

Thanks for the input. As Jason says, I don't think a lathe type boring bar will do. My searches turned up the Glanze set but I don't really want to spring for £100. I was hoping to find a single tool like this with a 3/8" diameter shank:

I could probably turn down a 1/2" one if necessary.

Cheers,

Rod

John Haine02/05/2018 22:52:13
2668 forum posts
136 photos

Why wouldn't a lathe one work? The geometry should be just the same whether the tool or the work rotates.

Mark Rand02/05/2018 22:57:43
789 forum posts

nearly got finished with the welding trolley I've been knocking together. The welds are unimpressive, but the paint job makes them look good in comparison. Still needs some plumbing and electrical work doing. I'd like to make some cable racks but I'm not sure if the extra width it'd need is worth the convenience.
 

 

 

 

 

Edited By Mark Rand on 02/05/2018 22:58:37

mgnbuk03/05/2018 07:52:04
520 forum posts
13 photos

I'm not sure if a lathe boring bar will work as they tend to set the tip at an angle

Can't see why it should make a difference ? If I use the boring bar in the lathe (set correctly on centre) to machine a bore larger than the minimum specified for the tool in a rotating workpiece, or rotate the same bar set on centre in a boring head to generate the same diameter bore in a stationary workpiece, the tip is presented in the same way to the bore regardless ?

I have used larger diameter lathe boring bars in larger than ME size boring heads at work (admittedly into graphite components, not metal) & they have worked fine without rubbing, and have also mounted lathe internal screwcutting tools in milling chucks & using them as fly cutters for thread milling on CNC milling machines.

I have the bars I linked to & intend to try them in my 2" boring head - just require the 1/2" to whatever reducing sleeves making to be able to try them out. I'll report back after doing so, though these projects do seem to take longer than initially anticipated !

Nigel B

Joseph Noci 103/05/2018 07:57:33
543 forum posts
832 photos
Posted by john feeney on 02/05/2018 11:25:23:

Hello Joe,

I have a Stettler 64-110 internal grinding machine. It has an internal spindle driven by a high frequency motor.Unfortunately this motor is beyond repair ( speed range was from 6000 to 24000). I have thought of using a "model" motor, probably a water cooled inrunnner. All these motors use an electronic speed control (ESC) and are generally low voltage and high current from a battery. What power supply system do you use ? is it battery or mains.

I have looked for mains supplied power supplies for electro plating, say 10V/ 50 Amp but quite expensive. Also how do you control the speed of the motor. ( I have flown model aircraft where the speed is controlled by the size of Prop. used)

The machine also has an air spindle which runs at 96000 rpm and can grind bores down to 0.8mm diameter. Don`t think I`ll be using it very often!

Regards

John Feeney

Hi John.

Pity about that motor being FUBAR...That sounds like it was a very nice one. John, the larger motor on my grinder is capable of delivering around 1.8kW, fed from 45 volts via a suitable (LARGE) ESC. Of course, that is with very intermittent duty, maybe 30 seconds with forced cooling. A 40 amp power supply would be required then. However, I use a variable DC power supply, from 12V up to 36volts @ 5 amps max on the toolpost grinder application. Obviously, if the application is say a surface grinder driving a 150mm x 25mm wheel and you are pushing the DOC, then many more amps and volts are needed.

In my grinder application I run way below such ratings..

In my case, a 50mm x 10mm ALoX wheel on outside grinding does not slow the motor that I notice, with voltage set to 20V and current draw is around 3 amps.

Speed control has some variables - Most ESC's work better when set for full speed - less losses in the drive FET's, etc. The motor speed variation is also less at full speed setting, so I use a servo tester, as mentioned, as the 'secondary' speed controller, generating a pulse width output of 1ms to 2ms - normaly set to 2ms (max) and left at that.

I then vary the motor speed by varying the power supply voltage, and that works a treat. The motor speed is by far much more stable under varying loads. As you know, the motors have a KV rating, this being the RPM per Applied Volt - My bigger motor is a 400KV motor, so turns at around 12800 RPM @ 30 volts, and 8000 RPM @ 20 volts.

This is an outrunner, and sizeable outrunners ( '1KW' types..) are available even up to 1200KV - that would give you around 20000 RPM @ 20 volts...You need to check the motor specs - the higher KV motors generally have lower maximum applied voltage limits else they would run dangerously fast...If your torque requirements are low, you can always step up with pulleys. Bearings are of course an issue - these are hobby motors, and running one at 15000 RPM for a half an hour is hard on the bearings - fitting good ones may be worth while. I do dynamically balance the outer cage as well ( there is a post I did on that process - made quite a difference in the screech..)

Big inrunners are more difficult - they are not as well cooled, the bearings tend to be smaller, the drive shafts are invariably much thinner, and they draw a LOT more amps, even running un-loaded. I have a 1KW inrunner with a 6mm shaft, motor is 55mm diameter, 70mm long - is a 4000KV motor, and has a max applied voltage rating of 16 volts - thats 64000 RPM (!!) - just running on the bench at no load it draws 18 amps at that RPM...and needs lots of cooling!

The smaller inrunners are much better - and are used a lot in 'copters - driving the main rotor via massive down-gearing, but generally are 3 or 4mm shaft size...

So, bottom line, use an outrunner, maybe 400KV to 900KV, and size it for your load requirements - a 50mm to 70mm OD motor will do most anything! Use a variable power supply ( continuous is nice, but switched - 12v, 16v, 20v, 25v, 30v is great as well). If you use a big motor, shafts of up to 12mm are easily available, and easily swapped for a long shaft ER series collet chuck.

BTW - the power supply need not be regulated - a tapped transformer ( 6 to 8 amps or so) giving 10v, 14v, 18v, etc AC outputs, with a bridge rectifier into 20,000 uf of filter capacitance, with a selector switch, will work just fine.

Joe

Jon Gibbs03/05/2018 10:41:29
738 forum posts
Posted by John Haine on 02/05/2018 22:52:13:

Why wouldn't a lathe one work? The geometry should be just the same whether the tool or the work rotates.

+1, I use several cheap Chinese SCLCR boring bars with CCMT-06XXX inserts shortened and turned down to 3/8" in my boring head very successfully.

The slight trailing droop of the insert makes no difference in practice and in fact seems to put the cutting tip right on the centre line of the boring head for me. For larger bars you can mill a flat on the bar wherever you like to get the tip to lie on axis if you're that concerned.

The banggood ones come with 10 inserts for around a tenner which is under the £15 import threshold if you can wait that long (2-3 weeks).

HTH

Jon

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