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Centec, stuck milling arbour

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Rainbows13/10/2017 15:28:53
647 forum posts
208 photos
Have a new centec, arbour won't come out. Have stuck a brass rod down the spindle and applied considerable force via hammer and haven't budged it. Have liberally applied oil to the taper area.

Are there hidden fasteners or something on the mill? Didn't come with a draw bar so not sure what to think.
I have the pics in my "centec" album. On mobile do can't put the images directly in the post.
Brian Wood13/10/2017 17:48:04
2498 forum posts
39 photos


I routinely extract my 2MT arbour from my Senior horizontal mill with a piece of scaffold tube fitted over the arbour, a big washer on the end to fit fit over the srbour and use the arbour clamp nut to tighten.

The tapers release easily and without any drama and there is no need to belt away at the end of the draw bar. I barely have space behind my mill to use a hammer anyway.

Try it, it is a lot less hassle


David George 113/10/2017 17:59:15
1715 forum posts
500 photos

Can't see your Centec album or the pictures of them.


Peter Tucker13/10/2017 18:01:58
183 forum posts

Hi Rainbows,

I have no knowledge of your machine, however, if the taper is a morse taper or similar I would recommend you make a pair of split wedges to fit between the arbor and spindle nose. The use of wedges is a lot gentler than beating the back of a taper yet generates much more separating force.

Hope this helps.


JasonB13/10/2017 18:18:48
21999 forum posts
2539 photos
1 articles
Posted by David George 1 on 13/10/2017 17:59:15:

Can't see your Centec album or the pictures of them.


Take those dark glasses offsmile d

Centec Album

KWIL13/10/2017 19:27:27
3477 forum posts
66 photos

As Peter T says, use a pair of wedges between the end of the spindle and the back of the arbor, plenty of room to access. Close the wedges with a G clamp, nice and easy.

Edited By KWIL on 13/10/2017 19:28:16

JasonB13/10/2017 20:05:03
21999 forum posts
2539 photos
1 articles

If you are not sure what the Wedges mentioned above should look like then this will give you an idea. Flat on one side tapered on the other, the two tapered faces bear against each other.

not done it yet13/10/2017 21:07:54
6518 forum posts
20 photos

I made a pair of wedges and they have worked well, but I like the way Brian does it.

Pipe can hang up beside/behind the mill, with the alternative drawbars, so not so easily "misplaced" as wedges (even though the wedges have holes, for hanging on a nail).

Wedges, on balance, are a better solution in most cases - thinking here Clarkson or ER collet holders), and my home made arbor is shorter than the one that came with the mill...

Also remember never to put a cold arbor into a warm socket... after you get it out. My home made arbor was shrunk fitted together (MT blank + round bar) and that has not come loose ... yet.

Andrew Johnston13/10/2017 21:25:09
6404 forum posts
682 photos

I just tap the arbor from side to side in a couple of different directions with a nylon mallet and out it comes on my horizontal mill. No need for wedges or clamps.


Rainbows13/10/2017 21:49:21
647 forum posts
208 photos

Had tried doing a wedgeing action with some screwdrivers, looks like I gotta bite the bullet and make a proper tool. If I feel proper I might make something out of O1 and harden them.

Might make a proper thread later, it's a weird mill. Vertical travel controlled by a gas valve knob leading to a rack and pinion. Might of screwed up and bought a production machine. The lever X feed makes me want to make a tool and cutter grinding attachment though.

not done it yet13/10/2017 22:17:03
6518 forum posts
20 photos

Nah, it's just an ordinary Centec 2 with that wheel changed for the usual rise and fall ratchet handle. Awkward for that, compared to the side operated handle of the 2A - which is just a bit awkward - and the later front operated knee of the 2B. I've never encountered a 2 but it will be OK, I'm sure. Slower and more fiddly than the later models but the same result. Most of us are not in any great hurry.

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