By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Allendale July 23rd

Myford ml7 problem

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Daan Schuitema27/04/2017 15:33:47
3 forum posts
Hello,

I have an problem with my metal lathe. It makes a strange noise. Since a week ago.

See the video link for the sound.

https://youtu.be/dXAuQgSknnM

I hope anyone can help me.

Daan
Robbo27/04/2017 20:52:13
1504 forum posts
142 photos

Daan

Sounds like loosely engaged gears to me. Have you checked the changewheels under the cover for their position and engagement. Is the tumbler reverse lever (left hand lever) in the proper position?

 

If they are OK this will at least push you up to the top of the page so some more opinions will appear.

 

 

Edited By Robbo on 27/04/2017 20:58:13

Hopper28/04/2017 02:13:56
avatar
3657 forum posts
72 photos

Check the driving dog in the back gear is correctly seated and the retaining screw is tight.

Benny Avelin28/04/2017 06:35:16
80 forum posts
86 photos

I agree, it sounds like gears almost in mesh.

Robbo28/04/2017 21:12:44
1504 forum posts
142 photos

Thanks Hopper, I forget that one these days, having moved to a Super 7.

Daan Schuitema28/04/2017 21:19:57
3 forum posts

Thanks all for the reactions. The gears are not the problem. I checked this. 

Hopper, I'll see if it's the back gear. any other suggestions? 

Daan

Edited By Daan Schuitema on 28/04/2017 21:25:56

Daan Schuitema28/04/2017 21:40:44
3 forum posts

I have checked it and this is what I have. Is it normal? This kind of 'backlash'?
https://youtu.be/0wBpD6fzfTE

Edited By Daan Schuitema on 28/04/2017 21:41:31

JohnF28/04/2017 23:15:30
avatar
852 forum posts
102 photos

Hi, it seems excessive to me particularly with the locking mechanism, I would also point out there is a tooth missing from the Bull wheel.

What I would do is disconnect everything in the drive as far as possible so that only the motor and counter shaft is running then progressively re-connect each section until the noise is apparent again. This will show you where the problem is. Disconnect tumbler reverse, gear train from this, back gear drive, and if possible the countershaft to spindle drive, not easy but you could at least run with the belt slack. Hope this helps !

Hopper29/04/2017 02:02:24
avatar
3657 forum posts
72 photos

You might want to have a good look at that back gear locking mechanism. And have a look to see where that missing tooth off the bull gear went to. It could be sitting between the gears in the bottom and getting jammed up.

john lavin07/03/2018 18:45:13
9 forum posts

hi I am doing some restoration on a ml7 , the countershaft bearings needed changing which I managed to do but the new shaft wont go through the bearings which I expected.

I am looking for some ideas on how to ease the bearings I know the correct way is reamers but I dont have any so my options are limited, the only way foward that I can see is to try to borrow an expandable reamer or some emery cloth around a bar in a battery drill. Any ideas would be gratfully recieved. John

David George 107/03/2018 23:16:08
avatar
879 forum posts
292 photos

Where are you based. If you are near here you could borrow one. Ng17

David

Hopper08/03/2018 02:04:28
avatar
3657 forum posts
72 photos

 

Before you remove any metal, check the shaft and run a file over each end of it. They tend to get burred up around the flats and keyway where the pulleys and retainer mount. (Or where someone hammered teh shaft to get it out.)

That done, will the shaft go through one bearing but not the other? If so, you have a bent H frame, a common occurrence due to the flimsy Mazak material and the awkward Mickey-Mouse belt adjustment screws that often result in only one getting adjusted and twisting the H frame.

My son and I straightened ours by holding it in the vice and putting a three-foot length of 3/4" bright steel bar through one bearing and bending the H into position until the bar would pass through the second bushing.

Of course, if the bushings have closed up in press fitting you will need a reamer to open them up. No way round it really. You can't (or rather, shouldn't) use a brake cylinder hone or emery tape flapper on a stick in the electric drill to open it out as the abrasive particles might get stuck in the sintered bronze, or the sintered bronze may get smeared.

If you get absolutely stuck, you could possibly take the bushings out, bore them out a couple of thou with a sharp tool, then reinstall them. This would by last ditch desperation though.

 

Edited By Hopper on 08/03/2018 02:05:20

Edited By Hopper on 08/03/2018 02:06:03

Martin Dowing08/03/2018 06:40:18
avatar
245 forum posts
4 photos
Posted by john lavin on 07/03/2018 18:45:13:

hi I am doing some restoration on a ml7 , the countershaft bearings needed changing which I managed to do but the new shaft wont go through the bearings which I expected.

I am looking for some ideas on how to ease the bearings I know the correct way is reamers but I dont have any so my options are limited, the only way foward that I can see is to try to borrow an expandable reamer or some emery cloth around a bar in a battery drill. Any ideas would be gratfully recieved. John

Long time ago, when I have bought my ML7 the same trouble cropped in.

First thing you need to do is to make sure that bearing housings are in allignement and it is not unknown for an odd monkey (eg previous owner) to overtension a belt enough to bend a casting.

If any problem here is noticed, it is not that difficult to twist casting back to allignement. Otherwise buy second hand one on ebay, but there is a good chance that you will need to do the same with it. After all there must be a reason to sell.

Once happy with it you may adress oilite bushes. I have used adjustable reamer to this end but there is a plenty of blabber on net that such treatment is detrimental to your bush (pores are clogged etc). IMO you will be fine as long as your reamer is sharp (if in doubt use new blades).

john lavin08/03/2018 09:57:39
9 forum posts

thanks David George 1

I am in the north west, Merseyside a bit to far but the offer was a nice gesture I used to have a box full of reamers and drills along with a lovely long bed boxford on a industrial cabinet with all the trimmings suds pump lights ect but it all had to go quickly as we were moving house, the other people was pushing to get in.Very sorry to see it all go .

Thanks again John.

john lavin08/03/2018 10:07:51
9 forum posts

thanks to Hopper and Martin for your replies I will try to get hold of a reamer plus some of your other suggestions I will post back with an update. Thanks again. John

Lynne08/03/2018 11:57:04
62 forum posts
23 photos

John Lavin, I have sent yyou a private message. Regards Lynne

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
ChesterUK
Advertise With Us
Eccentric Engineering
TRANSWAVE Converters
Meridienne oct 2019
Ausee.com.au
Warco
Eccentric July 5 2018
emcomachinetools
Allendale Electronics
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest