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Preventing Rust

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Roderick Jenkins17/02/2017 12:58:17
1568 forum posts
400 photos

I think one of the advantages of camellia oil is that, when the tool is actually used, the oil on the blade won't stain the wood. For a museum type collection, a thin clear varnish might be more appropriate.


Jon Gibbs17/02/2017 13:49:04
733 forum posts

There's always Renaissance Wax for the museum pieces as well...



Vic17/02/2017 18:35:14
1576 forum posts
3 photos

I like Renwax as a product but it's not effective for very damp places.

Howard Lewis18/02/2017 12:48:01
1164 forum posts

For tools that are not going to be used frequently, a lanolin based product is ideal. My tube is waxy at room temperature, but standing in hot water turns it to liquid which is easily spreadable. With all the sheep in Oz and NZ, I would have thought that lanolin ought to be easily obtainable!

In my old shop, after a few days the oil coating the Myford would be almost white, as it emulsified with the moisture in the air. If that happened, it was then wiped off and fresh oil applied, until next needed for use.

Rusting needs water and oxygen, so excluding oxygen and displacing water should prevent rust. So, spray with a water displacer, wipe and coat with a barrier, such as oil or lanolin should do the job.


R Johns18/02/2017 19:11:37
6 forum posts

Moth balls! I inherited my granddads shipwrights wood tool chest and it has a distinctive smell within it that I could never work out. Now, if this was a wardrobe I would have identified the smell immediately as moth balls. This thread has put two and two together and identified the tool chest aroma.


Edward Crouch19/02/2017 21:56:07
15 forum posts
2 photos

Another thumb for ACF50. Keeps all sorts of things including the old motorbike corrosion free. It isn't cheap, but it DOES work. If it's going to be laid up for a long time, waxoyl or one of Dinitrol's products are also really good.

Has anyone tried screwing a lump of Mg to their lathe!?!? Im not sure if that would work in a non-submersed application. Even my garage ain't that damp...

Maurice19/02/2017 22:08:08
341 forum posts
56 photos

On the advice of a correspondent in the M.E. Many years ago, I obtained a tub of anhydrous lanolin from my local chemist, who ordered it in for me. It is very good for putting on tools going into store, but it is a pig to remove. I had to resort to white spirit to get it off.


petro1head21/02/2017 20:00:55
466 forum posts
86 photos

Is Duck Oil any good

Paul Lousick21/02/2017 21:29:09
805 forum posts
398 photos

Thanks to everyone for their knowledge about preventing rust on steel.

I have another question.WeI have restored an old switchboard with knife switches made from copper. (It will be connected to a 32 volt generator, driven by one of our portable steam engines). What is the best way from stopping them from tarnishing and to keep their shine. Spraying with a laquer is no good as the switches have to make an electrical contact.



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