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All things Beaver Mill

An open thread for anyone owning or working on. a Beaver Mill

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Ian Bowers21/01/2022 13:06:20
12 forum posts
4 photos

Hi Peter the way I reduced the play in the coupling was to get it to go together further so the tapered dogs were touching on the sides fully. I machined of the tops o the dogs so they were not bottoming out but were touching on the sides.

to ensure the toothed pulley was in the same place and to ensure the back gear would come up far enough the mesh properly I made a spacer to space the shaft back to where it was.

The photo below shows it half done.

Ian Bowers21/01/2022 13:07:37
12 forum posts
4 photos


Peter_H21/01/2022 19:34:36
38 forum posts
20 photos

Ahhh.. tapered dogs. Now it makes sense. I assume the big gear is the back gear - I have that. Unfortunately the rest of it doesn't ring any bells. Maybe we are different versions. Mine is the VBRP MkII with the variable ratio taper belt drive up the top. My back gear drop int to engagement by manual lever. The gear is fitted on a hollow shaft with dogs, but they have more teeth than that. I did a section drawing in Qcad which is in one of my picture albums here. I will investigate further, as if the trimmed tape dogs ahs relevance here I can't wait to get it done!.

Harold Jolly29/01/2022 14:13:13
8 forum posts
33 photos

 the threads are no good20220102_164016.jpg20211227_163552.jpg I need help with the leadscrew on the table. Like to know if anyone can help. Here are a few pictures showing the nut.

What type of material would you think to use?



Edited By Harold Jolly on 29/01/2022 14:25:16

Harold Jolly29/01/2022 15:33:16
8 forum posts
33 photos

sorry about all the pic are turn . I do not know how to fix it.

Mark Rand29/01/2022 19:12:15
1236 forum posts
28 photos

Use cast iron, the same as the original. Then make sure that it is lubricated with oil, not grease.

It's far more easy to replace a pair of cast iron feed nuts than to replace the feedscrew after bronze nuts have worn it. It's a pity that Bridgeport never learned that lesson...


Here is one that I made earlier. I had to do it again because I made the outside diameter 0.003" too small. crying

feed nut.jpg

Edited By Mark Rand on 29/01/2022 19:15:58

Harold Jolly30/01/2022 01:07:40
8 forum posts
33 photos

Thanks Mark for sharing >where did you buy the material?

Mark Rand30/01/2022 09:06:30
1236 forum posts
28 photos

It was some continuously cast bar that I'd had for a number of years. I'd bought it from a steel stockholder in Birmingham. stock it in small and large quantities (use the search feature, it isn't listed in the menus). have it in their catalogue by the inch have it, but need to be phoned or emailed (very good for tool steels and specialist stuff)
College engineering seem to have gone off with the fairies after mum and dad retired
there are some sellers on ebay, they often claim it as being Meehanite, but Meehanite is a specific set of licensed processes.

There are probably plenty more, but those are ones I've dealt with.

Harold Jolly04/02/2022 23:36:31
8 forum posts
33 photos

Would it be possible to bye it from you ?

Mark Rand05/02/2022 14:02:47
1236 forum posts
28 photos

Do you mean the bar or the nut?

If you mean the bar, I've got some bits of CI that I could probably let go of, but getting it direct might be more simple.

If you mean the nut, the problems with it are that the outside is undersize, which is why it's a 'spare' and there is only one half of the complete pair that is needed, so you'd have a fixed nut which didn't fit the casting it goes into and still have to make the adjustable nut that screws into it.

Whereabouts are you based?

Harold Jolly08/02/2022 23:55:02
8 forum posts
33 photos

Hi it Harold . Asking about nut for the mill . I live in the united states . what is the out side diameter of the nut ? And the length.

Peter_H09/02/2022 10:18:48
38 forum posts
20 photos

What may be more practical, and benefit everybody, is if Mark could post the drawing or whatever sketches he used for making it.

It doesn't look much more than a cylinder with two different diameter bores, one fine threaded ( to mount it?) and the other threaded ACME for the lead-screw. Any external keys or flanges or anything Mark?

"ekpsupplies2009"  at sells Meehanite 250 grade cast iron bar by the inch. 60mm diameter is around 4 to 5 ukp per inch(!) but is looks like the genuine article.  "southweststeam1" has 80mm bar at around £10 per inch. Any decent metal suppliers should be able to sell it but you'll be looking at buying a few meters minimum.

In nearly 20 years on ebay, with Balding, beaver, VBRP as search terms, I have *never* seen a cross-feed nut for sale. What I do have somewhere is a balls-crew and nut for both full length table and cross-feed from a CNC version of the Beaver, but the end fittings are quite likely different.



Edited By Peter_H on 09/02/2022 10:34:58

Edited By Peter_H on 09/02/2022 10:36:11

Harold Jolly09/02/2022 22:00:53
8 forum posts
33 photos

Peter . Do you want to sale them ?

Mark Rand13/02/2022 22:46:27
1236 forum posts
28 photos

it should be 1 5/8 outside diameter by 2 1/8" long. with 1 1/8" of 1" x5tpi ACME thread at one end and and 1" of 1.4"x 20tpi (or thereabouts) thread at the other end.

There is a seat for a locating screw, but that it best drilled using the hole in the mounting bracket as a guide to get it in the right place.

The matching half of the adjustable feed nut has just got a flange for holes a hook/C spanner can turn it with, a 20tpi thread matching the first part (exact diameters are irrelevant just make them to fit each other), and a 1" x 5tpi ACME thread.

There is another collar that fits the external 20tpi thread of the second hald of the pair, that's for locking it in place after adjusting the backlash.

Basically, this is what Harold's photos show. the best method is to make a set that matches the originals, using their dimensions as a template.

The only part of the operation that isn't trivial is getting a 1" x 5tpi internal threading tool. I used a bit of 1/4" square HSS ground to the right form and held in an old boring bar.

If one isn't comfortable with that, Carmex make a good tool that will do the job. Unfortunately the normal laydown threading inserts are a waste of space, since 5tpi ACME is a 22mm insert, which is too large to fit in the bore that's being threaded (like most bl**dy internal laydown inserts).

Peter_H14/02/2022 11:26:54
38 forum posts
20 photos

Good description Mark, thanks.

It looks like the VBRP mk II was different. Both parts of the adjustable nut are the same or very similar, and consist of a normal 20tpi thread on the outside, a flange with C-spanner holes on one end, and 5 tpi ACME right through the middle. There a locknut each end similar to the flanges above, but with an internal 20tpi thread to screw on the outside of each nut half. So the nut halfs 80 and 84 screw into the fixed casting 82, adjusted by screwing each nut half lightly together, then locking with locknuts 83 and 81. The inside of the leadscrew hole in casting 84 leaves a volume that acts as an oil reservoir. You can just see the oil nipple near the right lock nut and adjacent to the item 84 leader line.

beaver mk2 part 2 opt_page_38_crossfeed_screw_nut_mod.jpg

Mark Rand14/02/2022 19:57:11
1236 forum posts
28 photos

That's a drawing of the Y feed, which has, as you say, got two identical movable bits. The X feed has only got the one movable bit, on account of not being able to reach inside the saddle to get at the other side of the assembly. laugh

Harold Jolly14/02/2022 22:22:01
8 forum posts
33 photos


i bought this Mitutoyo tool gauge . Some of the notch are not at 29 % . should I send it back ?20220213_155256.jpg


Peter_H15/02/2022 09:53:31
38 forum posts
20 photos

Mark - yes, the crossfeed nut. That's what I thought we were talking about? Having looked back at the original post I can see I grabbed the wrong end of the stick!




Edited By Peter_H on 15/02/2022 09:57:18

David MIller 1016/05/2022 13:45:25
1 forum posts

I have a Beaver VBRP MK2 with a 5/8 UNC drawbar & are unable to remove this as I wish to replace with a 16mm

as this will be easier for tooling, can anyone give me an idea for withdrawal ?

Mark Rand16/05/2022 17:59:02
1236 forum posts
28 photos

You should be able to just pull it out of the top of the spindle after unscrewing from the tool.

Is it set up as a 'self ejecting' drawbar? If so, there may be a collar screwed onto the top of the spindle that would need removing.

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