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sean logie23/10/2016 18:58:48
590 forum posts
90 photos

I decided to totally strip down the Fortis and move to it's new home ,degrease it and rebuild it replacing what's needing replaced .The link belt fell apart yesterday so i'm fitting the proper belt this time . What do you guys use for the degreasing,i've been using brake cleaner .


Chris Evans 623/10/2016 19:37:25
1750 forum posts

Good old paraffin and a brush works for me, sometimes a washing up brush with stiff bristles is needed. I follow with brake cleaner from a 5 litre tin not spray can.

JA23/10/2016 22:45:41
980 forum posts
54 photos

White Spirit. Paraffin can/does absorb water and can produce rust. It is also easy to buy and possibly cheaper than paraffin. Then wipe it dry.

If you are putting the items into store use a wax-oil or tractor laying-up fluid (I think you might still be able to get the latter).


Bazyle23/10/2016 23:16:05
5488 forum posts
207 photos

As JA says white spirit is cheaper. If painting a final wipe with brake or carb cleaner might help. Waxoyl clear car underbody treatment diluted with white spirit is great for protecting all bare metal both stock, nuts and bolts etc but keep it thin to dry just tacky like a post-it note as if too thick it will collect dirt and swarf.
You may find some types of oil stain still need the carb cleaner which does seem to work better in some things.

sean logie24/10/2016 06:33:13
590 forum posts
90 photos

I see .... I can't use white spirits i loath the smell of the stuff it gives me headaches . I'm not going to be painting it ,I'm liking the "patina" look, and anyways if i spent days (weeks knowing me) prepping and painting ...i wouldn't want to dirty it . . wink

The 3/4 hp Hoover motor is also going to be seriously looked ,still not starting without help from me .


mgnbuk24/10/2016 07:45:14
802 forum posts
61 photos

I use Jizer Janitol Rapide to clean machinery at work - a water based caustic cleaner supplied as a concentrate diluted to apply. I reuse squirty bottles to apply it, diluted about 4 parts water :1 part Janitol & remove with paper towels. This works particularly well on machines that have been used with coolant, as it removes coolant residues much better than paraffin based degreasers. A wipe over machined surfaces with Duck Oil keeps rust at bay. Wear rubber gloves & use eye protection - but you should be doing that with any degreaser anyway.

Nigel B.

sean logie24/10/2016 07:48:05
590 forum posts
90 photos

Thanks Nigel ,will look into it .


sean logie24/10/2016 16:15:00
590 forum posts
90 photos

I've started the strip down and have run into my first wee problem on the topslide gib screws . I went to loosen the lock nuts ,and on two of them the top of the gib screw just fell off with slightest touches with the spanner ,luckily i managed to get one of the out but the other one is stuck fast . I tried center drilling it with no joy they seem to be hardened steel . I measured them ,but not being sure about imperial sizes i'm not sure what size they are .. they measure as follows ...

dia ...... 5mm

length ...22.7mm



Bandersnatch24/10/2016 23:07:17
1719 forum posts
60 photos
Posted by sean logie on 24/10/2016 06:33:13:

I see .... I can't use white spirits i loath the smell of the stuff it gives me headaches .

Me too - most solvents do. More importantly, my workshop is in the basement of my home and stinky solvents get me in serious trouble with swmbo. (Not to mention I have a gas furnace and water heater with pilot lights within a few metres).

Small bits I can usually manage with isopropyl alcohol. Larger parts are more of a problem. Simple Green & Citrus degreasers do a so-so job.

Marischal Ellis25/10/2016 17:25:50
68 forum posts
27 photos

Hi S

I took several photos but cannot upload them onto my laptop, so will try when I get back this evening or use my phone. I can offer my tuppence worth on screw sizes. The Top slide screws are 3/16” x 1” x 24 Whit, Allan head, and Cross slide are ¼”x 1 1/4” x 20 Whit. hex head. Both have been changed since made. I have one top screw which is broken so will change it for perhaps a metric size if I have to bore it out and as a grub screw…easier to adjust in use …I think. Both sets could be a bit shorter in length.

Our Lathes may be of a different age, mine earlier and yours later or other way round, so there may be differences, but, on mine almost all fixings are imperial...Whitworth. The UNC and Whit in this use will be interchangable if needs must. Came across a UNF on the side gears and another on the gearbox cone shaft nut on top of ball bearing is 1/2” x 20 UNF. The gearbox bearings were made in USA so perhaps made or assembled before being shipped over here. Made during a time of austerity and rationing so there will have been ways of dealing with that. Rationing not confined just to food….timber licences, metals, etc. Probably everything! If you need efficient screw suppliers just shout. Also found a large BSF but cannot remember where. Will come across it when reassembling.

Best wishes


sean logie31/10/2016 07:43:46
590 forum posts
90 photos
Well I stripped the Apron yesterday, man this thing is in great nick for its age ,half nuts were like new as was the worm gear, no play in any of the shafts ,the gears were also in great nick . Now everything is back together I'm going to move onto the headstock. New belts arrived on Friday .

ega31/10/2016 10:54:59
1812 forum posts
153 photos

For small jobs I have been using surgical spirit from a bottle that I first bought with the object of applying it to the "sit area"; I was then and still am a keen cyclist and the idea was to prevent saddle discomfort.

sean logie08/11/2016 20:44:37
590 forum posts
90 photos

This v belt saga is becoming a bit irritating ,tonight I measured the pulleys with a piece of string whilst they were in the drive position (top of counter shaft was closed) . The measurement was 620mm ,from what I can gather .. I add 3" to that for the outside dimension is this right or wrong . I need to get this right so I don't have to strip the headstock again ....😀


Curtis Rutter08/11/2016 21:59:12
127 forum posts
13 photos

Ive always used this **LINK** for degreasing anything mostly because it does such a good job on motorcycle engine parts not sure if it's any good on lathe parts

Mike E.08/11/2016 22:40:48
209 forum posts
29 photos
Posted by Curtis Rutter on 08/11/2016 21:59:12:

Ive always used this **LINK** for degreasing anything mostly because it does such a good job on motorcycle engine parts not sure if it's any good on lathe parts

"Gunk" is the product I've used for years overseas, however the formula must be different here in the UK as it doesn't work as well, but is still the best I've found here so far. What "was" great about the original formula was that you could wash it off with water, which completely neutralized it and the grease leaving an absolutely clean finish; the perfect recipe for applying gaskets, or painting a metal surface.

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