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Myford ML7 long bed drip tray / other parts

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mrbuilder18/04/2016 10:51:04
71 forum posts
15 photos

Hi All.

I've just acquired an ML7 long bed in superb condition, so I'm rather happy. I'm in Australia and Myford lathes and accessories can be expensive/hard to find and the ones that are for sale are often in terrible condition (from what I've seen).

I've been looking further afield for a few parts/mods with little success so I'm hoping someone may be able to provide some help.

1) Quick change tool post, anyone have an opinion of the "Warco" version? http://www.warco.co.uk/quick-change-tool-posts/209-quick-change-tool-post---90-115mm-centre-height.html
2) Same for the rising blocks? http://www.warco.co.uk/metal-lathe-tools-turning-cutting-tooling/302951-riser-blocks-myford-7-series-lathe.html
3) Anyone know where I can find a long bed drip tray?

Any other suggestions where I could find the above. I've after good quality not necessarily cheapest.

I'd love to acquire a long bed stand but it looks like this is a impossibility. I found two but the cost including shipping from the UK was at least twice what paid for my lathe. So I'm thinking for welding up my own or getting someone else to make one here.

Thanks.

ega18/04/2016 14:49:28
1812 forum posts
153 photos

The Myford 7 is essentially a bench lathe.

I have no experience of the Myford industrial stand (which is highly-rated) but I think that the standard sheet metal version could readily be bettered by, as you propose, welding up your own. Large sheet metal work involved in the tray could perhaps more suitably be put out. The raising blocks if made as four rather than two items are a simple turning job.

There is a body of opinion that favours mounting the Myford on a very flat, rigid and vibration-damping base eg, perhaps, granite.

Edited By ega on 18/04/2016 15:09:01

Brian Wood18/04/2016 14:54:25
2271 forum posts
37 photos

mrbuilder,

I can make a suggestion for question 2.

I made mine from a section of 4 inch by 2 inch welded hollow box section steel, of 6mm wall thickness. I welded on nuts to carry drilled through bolts, fitted with locknuts. The drilled holes clear long bolts to bolt the lathe bed down to solid mountings below the bench.

Mine have been in use for more that 15 years now and I think, in that section thickness, they are as solid as they need to be. The beauty of it is that you could make your own and avoid shipping costs.

Regards

Brian

john fletcher 118/04/2016 15:38:57
624 forum posts

I've made a couple of stands for Myford lathes. For the first,I measured up a friends stand and got a local sheet metal company to cut and supply six end pieces, two for the back, I two for the front ,one for the top and two for the shelves. I enrolled for a Mig welding course and after gaining some proficiency at welding mig, welded the lot up. A bit of dressing up with the angle grinder was required. For the tray, I cut the and folded as per Myford all in 3 mm sheet steel. I think the cost was about £25. A coat of Hammerite and all my friends said it looked good. Two or three years later,back on the welding course again, getting better now. I bought a sheet and half of 3mm sheet steel and had it delivered to the "tec" where I was able to use their guillotine and large folder. I cut and folded two angled ends, made two shelves and top. Clamped those pieces up and tack them together, now it was free standing. Next I made the tray to pattern and it was welded up, quite a tricky job to do in the corners, its easy to burn threw. Next a back panel was fitted in and more welding all round. Its a good idea just to tack up initially, in case you get a bit of miss alignment,professional welders do it all the time and the last thing you want is a wobbly stand. I made some securing brackets so that it could fastened to the floor as per pattern. Unfortunately the "tec" has priced itself out of the market for folks like me. I enjoyed the experience and got a good strong stand in the bargain.John

mrbuilder19/04/2016 10:30:17
71 forum posts
15 photos

Thanks for the replies. Welding up one it is!

Keith Long19/04/2016 11:09:18
846 forum posts
11 photos

As to the tray, it might be worth looking in your local garden centre or similar for the trays that go under plant pots or grow-bags. I've got a couple (for lathe trays) that are about 37 in. long x 14 in. wide x 1.25in. deep. Made from plastic (polyprop in think) so impervious to oils and water, and over here in the UK at least, cheaper than getting steel sheet and fabricating one.

Bazyle19/04/2016 12:53:57
avatar
5488 forum posts
207 photos

Manufacturer's stands are always poorly designed for optimum use of the space being aimed at industry and rather overpriced for the same reason.
Have a look at the heavy duty 2ft deep shelving in Bunnings. It is rated at about a ton and very rigid. In the UK it is only available as a complete kit for a 6ft high set but you should be able to get the shorter end pieces which I saw piled high in their shops 18 months ago. Two layers of 3/4 ply not chipboard for the top and at least one shelf below for bracing and you are ready to turn in under an hour. Angle iron for DIY actually costs more.

Edited By Bazyle on 19/04/2016 12:55:00

frank brown19/04/2016 16:47:49
436 forum posts
5 photos

I used one of these for my lathe (other sizes/suppliers are available  

Frank

Stuart Osborne 521/04/2016 17:39:26
8 forum posts

Sorry if this is not the right place for this enquirybut I too have just acquired a long bed S7 Mk2 (1972) myford that has been standing untouched for several years. It came with the two shelf octagonal stand - eat your heart out mr builder!

Anyway the clutch seems to be permanently engaged and the handle just rotates.

I know about the dangerous spring so have approach it carefully. Took off the plastic cover at the handle end and I can see the ball bearing just lying in the bottom of the tube. The rod is not touching the operating the cam. Hence the handle just flopping about.

At the pully end the screw slot has been broken and there are two nuts on the thread, there Is 0.5 mm gap between the lower nut and the clutch plate assembly.

Any advice please.

Hope this is the right place.

Brian Wood22/04/2016 09:12:29
2271 forum posts
37 photos

Hello Stuart,

For some annoying compatibility reason, I am now unable to upload photos and drawings onto albums, or even download stuff off my albums, but I do have the Myford assembly instructions for this clutch.

Send me a personal message (PM) with your email address and I'll send a copy that way to you.

If you haven't done a PM before, look at the bottom of this reply and see is a box labelled ' Message Member'.

Click that and follow instructions

Regards

Brian

Ian S C22/04/2016 10:41:30
avatar
7468 forum posts
230 photos

This is the stand II built for a much bigger Taiwanese bench lathe, the bit angled out the back adds to stability, and spaces the lathe away from the wall, the near end, under the headstock has a door, and sheet metal sides, forming a cupboard. It is welded up from 50 x 50 x 6 mm angle iron, but square tube might be better. My bench has lasted over 20 years, and seen a couple of good sized earth quakes, and is still aligned.  It should not be too hard to make a drip tray from galvanised iron, perhaps with the edge rolled over a bit of rebar.

Ian S Clathe bench.jpg

Edited By Ian S C on 22/04/2016 11:06:11

Stuart Osborne 530/06/2016 20:30:19
8 forum posts

Nowhere on any myford site can I discover what oil is recommended for the original Compton drive motor on my 1972 S7. There is a spring cap oiling cup at each end of the motor. Can anyone tell me what lubricant to use please. Incidentally I am the proud possessor of 15 liters each of ISO32 and ISO68, the smallest quantity available here in Spain!

Stuart Osborne

Martin Newbold30/06/2016 20:56:04
415 forum posts
240 photos

Made my stand from 1" angle iron fence posts same ussed in post war beds, sadly not many left as my father when he was alive used most of the for his trailer . These iron fence posts are L shaped and pretty strong. You can use them on the top to make a cup shape so that you can silicon in some pmetal late to hold the lathe if this is lower than the sides it makes a reasonable drip tray.

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