By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Forum House Ad Zone

Woodwork Router Advice

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
WALLACE06/03/2015 07:45:31
304 forum posts
17 photos
Hello all.


I'm sorry to blaspheme on this site - but I think I will need to shortly do some 'woodwork' !

Can anyone recommend a good book -specifically on use of a router ?

There's lots of help pages and videos around but I'd like something I can flick through and doesn't require plugging in....should also add that it's for 12 inches to the foot modelling - it's for new door frames in the flat...


Thanks.



W.
Gray6206/03/2015 08:09:13
1058 forum posts
16 photos

This is a good intro to the router, also any books by Ron Fox, who is regarded as one of the most knowledgeable on the subject.

What do you envisage doing with the router on a door frame? Unlesss I need specific mouldings to match existing, which I do on a table mounted router I generally only use the router for morticing in the locks and hinges, and I have specific jigs for doing these.

Martin Kyte06/03/2015 08:59:02
avatar
2786 forum posts
53 photos

Rons Hints and Tips on the Wealdon site is good and it's free.

http://www.wealdentool.eu/hints_and_tips.html

regards Martin

V8Eng06/03/2015 09:40:05
1730 forum posts
6 photos

I have seen plenty of specialist books on woodworking when visiting an Axminster store.

They are also very good online suppliers and I always find them helpful.

Have to say that I avoid woodworking (we do not get on well)!

WALLACE06/03/2015 09:53:23
304 forum posts
17 photos
Axminster !

Hadn't thought of them !!

Basically, I need to fit new doors and frames - so it's locks, hinges and probably tenon joints or biscuits for the frame transoms.

Unfortunately, they're not standard sizes so it's going to have to be diy or lodsa money.

I bought a big one a few years ago for a kitchen worktop but have kept it in its box ever since as it scares me ... there's something about it not being bolted down - at least on my lathe I'm not relying on just muscle power to hold the headstock in place when taking a cut - it's very firmly bolted to the bed !!


Anyway - thanks all for the quick replies !



W.
Neil Wyatt06/03/2015 10:02:45
avatar
Moderator
19076 forum posts
736 photos
80 articles

My limited router experience is in two parts - don't 'climb mill' with it and, unless it has a guide bearing you run along the work, always use a secure fence attached to either the router or the work. Oh, and don't forget to connect up the workshop vac.

Neil

JasonB06/03/2015 10:18:57
avatar
Moderator
23039 forum posts
2769 photos
1 articles

Usual joint on a door lining is a rebate on the styles to form a bare faced tennon and a groove just in from the ends of head for the tennon to fit into. So a bearing guided rebate cutter for the tennon and 3/8" or 1/2" straight bit for the groove, you could use the 1/2" bit for both but not so easy to run the router fence along the short end of the styles unless you knock up a simple jig.

As for locks and hinges I prefer to use a small laminate trimmer which fits easily in one hand but the big one wioll also do. I'd just route out teh hinge recess and the shallow recess for the lockplate then flatbit & chisel out the mortice for the lock. If all your hinges are the same throughout the house then make a simple jig that you can run the router around using a guide bush in the baseplate and then just square up the corners with a chisel.

If you don't like having it free in your hands then think about a router table, though unless its got a sliding table not much use for these jobs

Jason (who earns his living making sawdust).

Edited By JasonB on 06/03/2015 10:26:01

Phil Whitley06/03/2015 10:21:29
avatar
1449 forum posts
147 photos

Hi Wallace, for mortice and tenon joints get yourself a japanese pull saw. one that cuts on the pull stroke! much easier and more accurate. for the rebates in the frame where the door fits I would use a table saw to rabbet them rather than a router, then finish with hand plane and sander. Routers have a way of always roaming into the wood you want, so you need to "fence" so that the router cannot stray into the job. Untill you get the hang of them they are hard to use, possibly the hardest hand tool I have ever used. A few years ago I took on a project to rebuild an old Chapel for my brother, this involved removing, rebuilding and replacing 11 window frames, including the large gable window frame which was about 10 Ft tall. At this time my woodwork skills were of the order of, "I look at the wood, and it splits". The windows had curved triangular tops, which had to be repaired and reused, and there was a conplex cut joint between this and the vertical sides. The first window took nearly two weeks to do, when I did the last it was 1-1/2 days. Don't wonder how to do it, get started and wonder how you did it. You will get better!

Ady106/03/2015 10:26:34
avatar
5169 forum posts
738 photos

Only ever done woodworking in my hobby room once

It took 10 minutes to do the job and 2 hours to clean up the mess, the sawdust got everywhere

Gordon W06/03/2015 12:05:29
2011 forum posts

My woodworking is done only when I have to, but I have built 2 houses ,mostly with a chainsaw. You don't need a router, I have a cheap one and it has saved me a lot of money, mostly making things like skirting board and trimming. I made doors by nailing 2x2 into a frame shape and covering both sides with ply, door frames from 2x4 and bought architrave to hide the joints. Locks and hinges a drill and a decent chisel. I don't want to lead people into bad practices, but it can be done. The router is safe, just keep a firm grip, and as said don't climb mill.

Brian Rice 106/03/2015 12:37:00
82 forum posts
11 photos

I have this book if you are interested,make me a offer plus p&p

image.jpg

Grizzly bear06/03/2015 19:10:25
303 forum posts
8 photos

Hi Wallace,

Router Handbook, Router Jigs & Techniques. Both by Patrick Spielman (USA).

Regards, Bear..

KWIL06/03/2015 19:15:56
3562 forum posts
70 photos

UK manufacturer TREND you will not need to go further for advice and techniques. Does not mean you have you have to buy, just look around ( I have the ELU equivalent of their largest Router!!)

Edited By KWIL on 06/03/2015 19:16:28

JasonB06/03/2015 19:55:29
avatar
Moderator
23039 forum posts
2769 photos
1 articles

Another happy MOF 177E user thenwink 2

Bazyle06/03/2015 20:44:52
avatar
6381 forum posts
222 photos

With metal you can get into problems cutting too fast. With wood it is the opposite.
Wood is floppy bendy rubbery stuff. So you hit it so hard with a fast spinning cutter that it doesn't have time to bend out of the way and you can cut it rather than tear it.
Next problem is heating the bit and burning. Go faster! If the bit gets the chance to rub not cut it will be heated by friction. So advance fast enought that every rotation of the cutter goes through new cool wood. Never pause or hesitate.

Can you tell a man's age by the router he bought when younger?

Mike Poole06/03/2015 23:11:31
avatar
Moderator
3376 forum posts
77 photos

The router on its own is a useful machine but will require some investment in cutters. With accessories like a router table and jigs to perform a wide variety of tasks it will become a very useful tool, but like a milling machine you will find you can spend more than the cost of the machine on tooling.

Mike

Nathan Sharpe06/03/2015 23:24:56
175 forum posts
3 photos

FWIW.

Template and bush for hinges IF you have a lot to do, otherwise mark up and cut by hand .

For mouldings in situ use a bearing guided bit.

For accurate repetition use a router table.

I use various cheap routers handheld for in situ work like cutting purfling grooves in acoustic guitars (bosch pof, power devil and B+Q) but a Triton 3.5 hp ( I think) in the router table combined with an Incra Jig for repetition work.

Look on Youtube for instruction.

Nathan

Jesse Hancock 107/03/2015 06:28:56
314 forum posts

Assuming you're a complete novice to hanging doors and changing frames :

My take is get a professional in to do the job depending on how many doors / frames your intend to replace / repair.

Be careful with who you employ! A good chippy will make good before he goes leaving redecorating and perhaps some dusting for you to do.

PS: Sounds like a power planer would be a better tool for you.

Edited By Jesse Hancock 1 on 07/03/2015 06:31:29

Les Jones 107/03/2015 10:02:10
2261 forum posts
156 photos

Hi Wallace,
These are the simple jigs I made when replacing the internal doors a few months ago.

I think this is what Jason was suggesting.

img_1189 (custom).jpg

img_1192 (custom).jpg

img_1196 (custom).jpg

img_1197_a (custom).jpg

Note the reference end of the locating strip lines up with the top of the door.

img_1198_a (custom).jpg

img_1199_a (custom).jpg

img_1201 (custom).jpg

img_1203_a (custom).jpg

img_1206 (custom).jpg

I did cheat by using the milling machine to make the jigs.

Les.

Phil Whitley07/03/2015 12:16:46
avatar
1449 forum posts
147 photos

Hi All, Excuse me, but that seems like a ridiculously complex way to cut the hinges into a door frame. this is the method I use, and which is always used by all the pro joiners I have ever seen fit a door,

Fold hinge to 90 deg and place on edge of door, pencil round and mark thickness of hinge on face of door, Chisel out and fit hinge to door, repeat for number of hinges till all are cut. Offer door up to frame, pack up with hardboard/cardboard to obtain correct clearance at top of door, mark hinges on to door frame, mark thickness of hinge on frame and chisel out.

Fit Door.

Twenty minutes tops and I am an Electrical engineer, A real joiner does it in less than half that time

Phil

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Dreweatts
cowells
Eccentric Engineering
Eccentric July 5 2018
Rapid RC
Subscription Offer

Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate