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What did you do today (2015)

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Mogens Kilde11/01/2015 19:00:35
60 forum posts
25 photos

Today I mounted the crosshead on my 5 pcs. series of an Inclined Steam Engine.

As something new I intend to sell some of my engines after finishing the project.

inclined steam engine.jpg

Regards

Mogens Kilde

Involute Curve11/01/2015 19:08:11
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337 forum posts
107 photos

Holts Gasket remover, is the best paint stripper ever, it will even remove powder coat in seconds, don't ask how I know. angry

Be warned its full fat, I think HSE haven't cottoned on to this stuff yet!!

The only down side is its in a spray can, so is expensive but at least it does work, and way better than original Nitromors.

HTH

Shaun

Neil Wyatt11/01/2015 19:27:06
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18585 forum posts
723 photos
78 articles

I've found a place in Yorkshire that dips and strips for £15, if I can get a price like that locally, I'll take the risk! I hate paint stripping.

I like filluing in all teh hundreds of panel pin holes though, it's therapeutic.

Neil

Swarf, Mostly!11/01/2015 20:37:35
577 forum posts
58 photos

Neil,

If the operator at your 'dip & strip' joint is over-zealous, the process will not only remove the paint, it'll also loosen the glue in the mortice & tenon joints and/or any dowels as well as removing any filler!

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

 

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 11/01/2015 20:38:18

Neil Wyatt11/01/2015 21:32:21
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The problem with these doors is they appear to have some sort of varnish like shellac or french polish under the paint. It forms an absolutely disgusting goo. That's why it took me about ten years to forget and decide to strip a second one...

TBH, I'm not really worried if the door comes back as a kit of parts. I can either fit it back together or fit the modern door that was the reason for me starting the stripping, though I much rather the red or pitch pine doors. They have a distinct style - three panels for the bottom 2/3 and one full width at the top.

Neil

John Baguley11/01/2015 21:40:54
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484 forum posts
51 photos

They sound the same design as the doors in my 1930s house Neil. They and all the woodwork were also painted with some sort of varnish that took ages to get off with a hot air gun and scraper as it went like chewing gum. Next doors had theirs stripped but it did affect the glued joints as well.

John

Muzzer11/01/2015 22:52:20
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2904 forum posts
448 photos

The builder was out to nickel and dime you if you so much as farted. Any change in spec came out as a cost increase. Once I'd got him to finish the roof and the end wall I did the rest myself. Of course, I had to dig out all the rubbish he'd kindly secreted under the flooring. I expect he'd have wanted to charge me for removing that too. He also laid the first 3 sheets of tongue and groove chipboard upside down, the clue being "this side down" visible on the top face. Luckily I turfed him out before he messed anything else up.

Murray

Gordon W12/01/2015 09:37:33
2011 forum posts

The local door/ paint stripping firm used caustic soda bath, ok so long as it was watched. Good at removing filler etc.

Neil Wyatt12/01/2015 10:12:28
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18585 forum posts
723 photos
78 articles

Well my local one is only £20, if I'd known that I'd have had all the doors done twelve years ago :-/

Neil

OuBallie12/01/2015 10:36:46
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1151 forum posts
661 photos

Neil,

Have a look at Biostrip **LINK**biostrip.co.uk

I've used it to remove some of the paint off of my Austin Seven and stripped the paint from the wood Carport side door.

Works a treat.

Heater on in Workshop. It's no longer used as a Garage so will discontinue that description unless relevant.

Geoff - If my brother saw me outside in shirtsleeves in 9°C he would have a fit

Harry Wilkes12/01/2015 21:23:51
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1099 forum posts
64 photos

Attempted to change the motor on my Myford S7, to remove motor you must first remove the pulley well bloodied and battered 3 hrs later pulley 1 me 0 replay to be arranged wink

H

"Bill Hancox"13/01/2015 05:48:20
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257 forum posts
77 photos

Neil and John

The finish of which you speak sounds like a furniture finish that was applied to some fine factory furniture in the early part of the 20th century. The finish was also used by some home furniture makers of the period. I recall reading about it in one of my father's old home repair and improvement manuals that was published about 1925. The process involved heating a mixture of beeswax and naptha over a burner (handy to a fire brigade I hope) and applying the hot mixture to the wood. you would then buff it out with a piece of lamb's wool when it cooled. If the finish suffered a scratch, all you had to do was buff the area vigorously with the lamb's wool to blend out the scratch. The friction caused by the vigorous buffing heated the finish and caused it to soften and spread into the scratch.

Bill

Neil Wyatt13/01/2015 09:21:10
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18585 forum posts
723 photos
78 articles

Thanks Bill, I think it is a shellac-based varnish myself. I used a modern version of 'buffable beeswax' finish on the door that I stripped an age ago, and it's a very different finish(and much nicer). This house is 1937, if I recall correctly. Has a very nice oak floor in the hallway, now kept nice with Danish oil every few years.

Neil

Four stroke Fred13/01/2015 09:33:41
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176 forum posts
175 photos

Well I didn't have a good yesterday as I "lost" 19 orthographic drawings and 19 3D objects, actually parts of the Saundeson & Mills tractor model. Not only did the drawing I was working on went off into the wild blue yonder but so did the whole file! Not even an apology just " internal error occurred " . Good job I had backed up on a memory stick earlier in the morning. Now back on track, 130 drawings completed only about another 50 to go! It will be good to get back into the workshop and actually make some thing.

George

Harry Wilkes13/01/2015 16:16:25
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1099 forum posts
64 photos

New day new match by half time I was still trailing so half time action was required, came out for the second half with a substitute 'Puller' who sooner turned the game in my favour !

H

Posted by Harry Wilkes on 12/01/2015 21:23:51:

Attempted to change the motor on my Myford S7, to remove motor you must first remove the pulley well bloodied and battered 3 hrs later pulley 1 me 0 replay to be arranged wink

H

"Bill Hancox"13/01/2015 18:28:35
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257 forum posts
77 photos

Now -14 C. Just in from clearing more snow. Thank goodness for the Husqvarna snowblower. Much easier than the heavy old coal shovel that my Dad would hand me when I was a young fella. I think the blasted thing weighed more than I did. Now for a nice hot cup of Java with honey and cream, maybe a drop or two of Disaronno! Life is good.

IBill

"Bill Hancox"13/01/2015 18:36:23
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257 forum posts
77 photos
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 13/01/2015 09:21:10:

Thanks Bill, I think it is a shellac-based varnish myself. I used a modern version of 'buffable beeswax' finish on the door that I stripped an age ago, and it's a very different finish(and much nicer). This house is 1937, if I recall correctly. Has a very nice oak floor in the hallway, now kept nice with Danish oil every few years.

Neil

Neil

You are probably correct in that assumption. Another favorite finish for wood turners and finishers was a mixture of shellac and boiled linseed oil applied with cheesecloth and buffed out. Gunsmiths also used it for stock work. I have used the mixture myself for a french polish on wood turning projects

Bill.

Jesse Hancock 113/01/2015 21:49:06
314 forum posts

Today I canceled my subs to Model Engineer Magazine.

Why?

Firstly I have some old Model Engineer and Electrician hard backed volumes dating form 1905 and believe it or not, much of what comes up in the mag these days mirrors what is in the books. The shelf housing my mags is groaning under the weight of issues but I will keep every one for reference.

Second I have enough projects running to last me into my next lifetime I think. Indeed every time I do a bit I find I need some mod or other to cope with the work in hand.

I have to make cuts somewhere since being on line is £25.00 a month. I could go on but it sounds like I'm always moaning. embarrassed

Jesse

Harry Wilkes14/01/2015 16:16:21
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1099 forum posts
64 photos

Well finally got the new motor on and wired up and it runs ok jus need to decide what to fix the inverter and control box.

H

Posted by Harry Wilkes on 13/01/2015 16:16:25:

New day new match by half time I was still trailing so half time action was required, came out for the second half with a substitute 'Puller' who sooner turned the game in my favour !

H

Posted by Harry Wilkes on 12/01/2015 21:23:51:

Attempted to change the motor on my Myford S7, to remove motor you must first remove the pulley well bloodied and battered 3 hrs later pulley 1 me 0 replay to be arranged wink

H

Neil Wyatt14/01/2015 18:25:43
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Moderator
18585 forum posts
723 photos
78 articles

I signed up for ISS notifications from NASA. Didn't get any for days, then I had them for the mornings of Sunday. Monday and Tuesday.

Of course, each morning there was a good layer of cloud overhead. So did I check for any emails from them yesterday?

This morning I got up and let the dog out later than usual. Moon was bright, as was Jupiter, then I saw a light, at least as bright as Jupiter coming out of the west, pretty quickly. I waited till it seemed almost overhead, convinced myself it was a plane for East Midlands Airport with its landing lights on early. I did note the time when I went in, 7:31.

Later on I saw this alert in my inbox:

Time: Wed Jan 14 7:28 AM, Visible: 4 min, Max Height: 71 degrees, Appears: W, Disappears: ESE

AAAARGH!

If I had been ready I can't imagine there could be better conditions for photography, with the sky having reached blue, but still before sunrise.

I WILL get a picture of that damn thing, at least I know what to look for now.

Neil

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