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Member postings for Jim C

Here is a list of all the postings Jim C has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Emco FB2 Quirks and Additions
04/11/2020 15:13:02

Joseph. I have what I suppose you would call an FB2 clone in the guise of a Rishton mill (not many about by all accounts) I set the head square in the usual way using an extended DTI in the spindle and checking the table at two extreme points.

You talk about doing some accurate deep boring on your mill. I am interested how you do this on a mill that has a very small quill movement and a circular column. To date I have not had a job where I could not use the lathe to do the boring and would be a bit reluctant to unlock the head of the mill and use that to bore with. I’m worried that the head will move slightly on its gib strip ??

Interested in comments from FB2 or similar mill users.

Jim.

Thread: Wyvern engine help!
12/09/2020 15:59:23

Hi Howard. Thanks for your advice on the engines exhaust. I have made a very simple one but if need be I will look more closely at what you advise. Regards, Jim.

11/09/2020 20:16:40

Hi Rod. Thanks for replying. Sorry to here you had problems with the original carb. Would you by any chance have some detail drawings of the two you have had success with. It would be a great help. Cheers. Jim.

11/09/2020 17:54:33

Hi all.

Having sorted out the ignition by using a Hall sensor system and fitting a basic type of exhaust, I made an attempt to run the engine on petrol today with no real success. The carburettor seems now to be the issue. I made the carb to the Westbury drawing but I know that people have had trouble in the past getting this engine to run.

Does anyone know of a more simpler carb that I might try or do I persevere with the Edgar Westbury design and try to fettle that one.

I am very close to getting the engine finished now so I would be grateful of any any advice from Wyvern builders or anybody else who has had carburettor issues. Many thanks in anticipation.

Jim.

Thread: Emco FB2 Quirks and Additions
23/07/2020 20:05:09

Hi Graham.

I own a Rishton mill which is very similar to your FB2 but with some minor differences.

The speed change levers live on the left of the head and like you I have an issue with a small oil leak from the spindle.

I do recall some time ago seeing your snifter valve being detailed in I think, MEW magazine but don’t have access to the drawings. Do you have them available or can you direct me to them.?

Some of my 2MT tooling is difficult to remove from the spindle (may be me over tightening it?.) so I use a couple of wedges and a homemade clamp to squeeze them together. The removal mechanism at the top of the drawbar does not work for me !! does yours have such a feature.

Looking forward to seeing more of the additions you have designed and hoping I can adapt them to the Rishton.

Regards, Jim.

Thread: Lamp Post Engine
11/07/2020 15:43:50

Hi Nigel.

The development drawing looks ok to me and clearly worked for you. Did you use a sheet metal folder for the fold lines when producing the shape ? Cheers, Jim.

08/07/2020 14:45:19

Hi Nigel. Not sure how you go about producing an article. You need one of the moderators to come along and inform you. As an alternative, you could post some drawings in your photos page and we could get started on it as I am sure a few on here would give it a go. Cheers.

07/07/2020 09:02:33

Guilty as charged Simon, I do indeed subscribe to MEW. Interesting use as a work light. An improvement perhaps on the current candle power !! I am unsure of the demarcation between the two magazines ? The Lamp Post engine would certainly have some interesting machine setups and manufacturing problems to solve which I though would lean to MEW. Besides that, it would make for an interesting article in said magazine. Just my thoughts.

05/07/2020 07:41:04

Well done Nigel, a really interesting design. Can’t wait for its serialisation. Maybe in MEW ? It’s certainly a project I would like to embark on, when I get other jobs off the bench that is !! Cheers for sharing it.

Thread: Wyvern engine help!
26/05/2020 15:04:53

Henry, thanks have sent a PM as requested. Jim.

Jason, thanks for the advice, will definitely look into use of gas and trembler ignitions. Cheers Jim.

26/05/2020 12:20:59

Thanks for the replies chaps.

Michael R - Thanks for some great photos of you engine, it’s given me some ideas for exhaust and cooling methods. Presumably you exhaust is a steel tube with holes in the blanked off end. Is it willed with some sound deadening material? The ignition system is interesting and so I will have a look at the Minimag and if ok get back to you for some fitting advise ?

Nick Clarke 1 - Thanks, and I have replied to your PM.

Nigel McBurney 1 - Thanks for a great deal I’d good information on ignition systems, the bit about the 2 gas Gardner’s caught my eye as I did my apprenticeship with them in the 70’s but they wasn’t making gas engines then! I will have a look at the trembler coil that you mentioned, it may be the job.

Thanks all again. Jim.

26/05/2020 08:13:01

Hi all,

I’m looking for some much needed assistance as I come dangerously close to the completion of the build stage ! The areas that I am unsure of are:- 1. Exhaust, any advise on design would be much appreciated. 2. The ignition system, electrics has never been my strong point! so a circuit diagram would be a help together with the necessary components needed. 3. And finally? Fueling the thing, any advise on type of fuel Gas or Petrol? Here’s hoping for some tips from any engine builders out there or indeed anybody with this knowledge. I hope to get this engine finished shortly. Best regards, Jim.

Thread: Norden mill engine
03/09/2019 17:50:25

Cheers for that Neil, I’ll keep on at it and when finished give it to my grandson to look after and run, hopefully ?

Then I’ll get back on with the Wyvern, which I shelved because I found the carburetor a really tricky job and put it on the too hard shelf !!

Jim.

03/09/2019 17:06:23

Hi Neil. Thanks for getting back to me. Today I decided I would increase the length of the guide bars. They still might be a tad over length but can shorten if needed. Cheers Jim.f76abaaa-1b75-4bdf-a5a1-556d83135044.jpeg88eb163a-60dd-4305-824b-01aa1e25fcd8.jpeg

02/09/2019 14:55:15

Firstly, apologies for posting a photo with no additional notes.!! To Jim Nic...when I was initially assembling the engine, I set the cross head at the bottom to gauge the piston rod length. There is lots of clearance at the bottom. It was only when I took the cross head to the top that I realised that the guides where too short. ( I even left them a bit over length !) Hi Jason, thanks for your comments and numerical input. Yes it would also seem to me that the legs as dimensioned could well be over length as you infer. Hope Neil is around soon to put a rule on his model and shed some light on the issue. It may just be possible to cut off the tops of the legs and re solder the table on ? Cheers all.

02/09/2019 14:03:16

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02/09/2019 13:17:17

Hi. Just wondering if anybody has built this engine or is in the process of building it? I am a good way through the project and today had a trial assembly of cylinder, piston, connecting rod and crank. On assembly I found that the cross head travels almost outside of the guide bars by about 1/4 inch at the extremity of crank stroke!! I also left the guide bars slightly over length and am confident that I have all the contributing lengths to drawing size. IE, table legs at 4 7/8 inch long and at 8 degree angle. Suggestions as to what to do now would be very welcome, like maybe try to extend the guide bars? Neil, any drawing errors known of. Many thanks, Jim.

Thread: my knowledge of steel needs improving
20/08/2019 17:07:45

Christopher. See if you can get some EN8 either in round bar or hexagon. It will turn ok and then can be heat treated. Ideal for a centre punch. Jim.

Thread: Gear cutting
10/04/2019 18:42:30

Try Brunell engineering. They support both 2 an d 4 inch Durham’s.

Thread: Machine reamer vs Chucking reamer
09/04/2019 08:36:57

Chucking reamers are often used with floating reamer holders. Thus allowing them to follow previously drilled holes.

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