Here is a list of all the postings Jim C has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Norden mill engine|
Cheers for that Neil, I’ll keep on at it and when finished give it to my grandson to look after and run, hopefully ?
Then I’ll get back on with the Wyvern, which I shelved because I found the carburetor a really tricky job and put it on the too hard shelf !!
Firstly, apologies for posting a photo with no additional notes.!! To Jim Nic...when I was initially assembling the engine, I set the cross head at the bottom to gauge the piston rod length. There is lots of clearance at the bottom. It was only when I took the cross head to the top that I realised that the guides where too short. ( I even left them a bit over length !) Hi Jason, thanks for your comments and numerical input. Yes it would also seem to me that the legs as dimensioned could well be over length as you infer. Hope Neil is around soon to put a rule on his model and shed some light on the issue. It may just be possible to cut off the tops of the legs and re solder the table on ? Cheers all.
Hi. Just wondering if anybody has built this engine or is in the process of building it? I am a good way through the project and today had a trial assembly of cylinder, piston, connecting rod and crank. On assembly I found that the cross head travels almost outside of the guide bars by about 1/4 inch at the extremity of crank stroke!! I also left the guide bars slightly over length and am confident that I have all the contributing lengths to drawing size. IE, table legs at 4 7/8 inch long and at 8 degree angle. Suggestions as to what to do now would be very welcome, like maybe try to extend the guide bars? Neil, any drawing errors known of. Many thanks, Jim.
|Thread: my knowledge of steel needs improving|
Christopher. See if you can get some EN8 either in round bar or hexagon. It will turn ok and then can be heat treated. Ideal for a centre punch. Jim.
|Thread: Gear cutting|
Try Brunell engineering. They support both 2 an d 4 inch Durham’s.
|Thread: Machine reamer vs Chucking reamer|
Chucking reamers are often used with floating reamer holders. Thus allowing them to follow previously drilled holes.
|Thread: Lathe Carriage Stop|
Looking at this well designed device it would appear that it does have a stop rod item 6 which presumably could be used to protect the DTI before its end of travel??
|Thread: Use of Colour on Drawings|
Hi Jason, I would go for option 1 for presenting a drawing for manufacture. The isometric view whether rendered or not is a worthwhile addition, especially for engineering apprentices!
|Thread: Setting up my Myford ML 10|
Hi Robert. It looks like it has had a replacement carriage handwheel fitted and in the position shown in your photos your knuckles will certainly foul the top of the bench. Bring it forward or obtain the original handwheel. Otherwise things look fine.
|Thread: Steering chain|
Hi Garry, Many thanks for the contact for steering chain. I used the Blackgates chain some years ago and managed to strain the links open on a few occasions. Admittedly I hadn't soldered the links. This 316 stainless should prove to be more up to the job when running on rough ground !! Again many thanks. Cheers, Jim.
|Thread: Keyway cutter for Myford|
Hi, Yes, made one from the casting and drawings available from College Engineering Supplies.
|Thread: Lathe steady|
Hi Larry. Basically the fixed steady is clamped to the lathe bed near to the end of the long bar you are to work on. The bar should then be set to run true with the use of a dial test indicator and adjustment of the three support points on the fixed steady. If the bar is very long be careful of it whipping when starting the machine. Maybe the use of a second steady could be needed.
|Thread: John Wilding 8 day Weight Driven Wall Clock|
Hi Dick H. The suspension spring on my clock is 8 thou thick. I know the drawing call for 6 thou. but it was bought from Ian Cobb and came in at that size. Is this a potential issue ?
I put a scale behind the pendulum and the swing is almost equal both sides of the centre line. If anything it is a bit more on the left.
Martin and Michael. Thanks for you comments. The frame seems sturdy enough and the clock does not seem to stop in any one particular place. More to the pity !!!
It just runs out of steam and does not appear to give any kick to the pendulum. Not sure where this kick is meant to come from ???
i will dismantle it again and give the pivot holes another broaching. I may also harden the pallet faces, but I did make it from gauge plate which is fairly tough stuff anyway.
Thanks for all your help.
Hi Dick H, Alan, Roy and Martin.
Thanks for all your help with getting this clock to run. I've finally got some movement from it but only for a few minutes, then it seem to run out of power.
I've recently broached out the pivot holes in an attempt to make it rattle as someone mentioned. When I rebuilt it I made sure things were free to rotate and sure enough, when I put the weight on, off it went like a train!!!!
I then put the pendulum on and it did carry on working but eventually stopped.
There is no motion work attached at the moment, as I have been concentrating on just the train.
I know there could me a multitude of reasons for it not running continuously, but any suggestions will be gratefully received.
|Thread: new milling machine|
i think you are right to look for a Mill as performing this operation on your ML7 does have its limitations. Regarding the R8/MT3 choice, I bought a second hand Rishton mill which I am very pleased with but it does have a MT2 spindle nose. Removing tooling from the spindle is a major operation with the use of wedges !!!!!! I would therefore recommend sourcing an mill with an R8 spindle nose which avoids this issue.
good luck with your search.
|Thread: John Wilding 8 day Weight Driven Wall Clock|
Morning chaps and thanks for your replies.
Dick H - My arrangement does have the pulley so it would appear from your post that I do have insufficient weight at the moment. I will source some larger steel bar and aim more for the 8 to 9 pounds mark as suggested in the first book. If that doesn't work I will then as you suggest look for frictional resistances and free them up. I'm determined to give it a good try before admitting defeat,!!!!!
Alan - Many thanks for your help in the past. I'm sorry to hear that you have given the clock the elbow. I can understand your annoyance with the build notes from John Wilding. Perhaps when you have sorted out your Boxford you might dig out the box of bits and give it just one more try.
Hi. I am coming to the stage of this clock build where I am trying to get it to run. I would just like to ask other owners/builders of this clock as to the size of the weight they are using.
I have a book which the sizes of the weight have been altered to 2" diameter by 5" long steel billet which is what I have made it too. The original sizes are 2.5" dia. by 6" long.
At the moment the clock won't run as is, but if I apply some finger pressure to assist the rotation of the barrel/great wheel it does seem to run for a short time them run out of steam so to speak. Could this be due to insufficient weight?
Hopefully clock builders out there might be able to point me in the right direction.
Many thanks, Jim.
|Thread: Cross drilling|
Hi John, You could maybe mill a small flat on the bar and spot and drill it after marking out in the old fashioned way or indexing across the dia. with wobbler. Or better, you could produce a drill bush from rectangular bar and use that?
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