Here is a list of all the postings terry callaghan has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: milling machine which one ?|
Hi, having sold my Tom senior s type a few years back, I remember that moving the knee up and down was a bit of hard work at times. I needed a milling machine again earlier this year. Space is limited, I found that old British mills mainly sole by dealers had a fair bit of play in them. I looked at mini mills, but the bed size allowing for clamping was too small. In the end a warco super major turned up for sale. Locally. I did not wish to go Chinese, but took a look. Powered z axis and bed was nice. For the money £700 I thing it was a good buy. From what I have found out older warco machines are better then the newer ones.
|Thread: Regulator control.|
Hi chaps. I am a bit worried about the regulator control connections on a Martin Evans Columbia locomotive I am working on. The regulator is the twin popper type that is mounted on the front of the boiler within the smoke box. A control arm 56mm long complete with a 4mm face square formed end, extends to just outside the smoke box. The control arm needs a clockwise turn of 45* to fully open the regulator. Onto this square is fitted a connector as per the picture. My worry is that the connecting area is very small with only a very small locking pin to hold both together.
|Thread: Some help needed with my build|
Thanks chaps, here is a picture of the centre linkage. I think that using bolts is a bad idea as there is far to much play if you add up all the kinks. The movement of the regulator main body is less then a 1/4 turn at best. I think nick your case hardened fork with close fitting pins maybe the answer. Do you think using silver steel for the pins would be ok.
Hi chaps.i am trying to sort out a Martin Evans design Columbia. The regulator control runs along the outside of the wrapping and is made up of two rods and three fork connectors. My problem is with having too much slopp in the movement. The rods are on two levels and as a link arm in the middle. Due to lack of space in the position the rods are in the fork connectors are quite small, with only a 2mm hole for a fixing pin. I have tried just fitting a nut and bolt, but the play is too much. What would be a better way to lock the fork connectors, . Thanks.
|Thread: Cnc conversation of a warco super major|
Hi, looking into the past posts, there are two links to build logs from people who have converted a super major mill to cnc. But both links are dead, and I can’t open them. Can someone please contact me if they have converted a super major. Thanks. Michael
|Thread: £15,000 for a Bridgeport!|
This auction house is Japanese owned. The fees have been going up to mad levels. But 30% on top the hammer price and taking 15% from the buyer plus 1.5% insurance, then cost per picture. They are on a real winner. The only losers are the sellers. But what I find odd is that buyers are happy to buy from auctions, yet moan at the prices asked by sellers, selling their own items. I know a fellow club member who tried to sell is locomotive on a number of sites, with little interest bar from dealers trying to beg it. He placed it in auction, it sold for a much higher price then he was asking. The buyer had to pay a lot more, and the seller got less after all the fees. All very odd really.
|Thread: Amolco milling machine|
I will look into making a few bed locks, thanks lee
|Thread: New chinese lathe or old Myford lathe|
Hi, I find my myford super 7 a bit small so went on the hunt for a larger machine. Looked at a few warco types, they are eye candy for sure, but for the money they ask, I would want a lot more then Chinese manufacturing. In the end I went for a Colchester bantam lathe. Best Buy I have ever made in model engineering. A 1/4 of the price of a warco lathe, and ten times better.
|Thread: Amolco milling machine|
Thanks chaps, I did find the drawbar, and ordered a new mt2 collect chuck with collets. I only need to do a small bit of one off milling. The rest I do on a cnc mill. Thanks for your help.
Hi chaps, I purchased a little Amolco bench top milling machine as a stand in for a time. I know that the taper is mt2. But before I start hitting things with hammers to get the chuck out, is there a drewbar. I have taken the top of the mill off, but all I can see is a rod and nut which looks like it’s holding the pulleys in place. I don’t want to start taking things apart if I don’t need to, so I am asking here. Thanks
|Thread: Bournemouth club|
Hi is the Bournemouth club still going, their web site is closed. Anyone know. Thanks
|Thread: Locomotive control extension|
Hi Duncan, interesting idea, but it’s becoming more complicated. I like to keep things simple, like me.
I like that idea. Will have a think on that. Thanks
Derek, I think you have hit the nail on the head. But one thing remains to be looked at to make this work. As the locomotive turns a bend so the cap between it and the tender gets wider or shorter. This could be around an inch or more on my loco. So to allow for this movement some sort of movement most be allowed in the extension. I have been thinking of a slide made up of two flats around two inches long. One slide would have a slot in it, the other two pins that run along the slot allowing for the reduction of length needed or the increasing length due to the movement of the locomotive as it takes the bend. I have ordered some uj joints that can take 6mm rod. Maybe a bit overkill but I don’t want torque bend. It’s not the rotation speed that worry’s me, it’s the torque that is needed to move the reverser.
Hi Derek, yes I know the ones you mean. Will take a look, thanks for that input. Good idea.
Hi, yesterday I looked at a few flexi cables, but they all had torque bend, bar the very large ones. So I had a look in Halfords. I picked up a few 1/4 inch uj joints and think that in the end this will be a better bet. Will update as I go along with the project. Thanks for input.
Thanks chaps, some good ideas. I don’t think an electric motor will work Duncan as it’s too near the firebox door. My worry with smaller flex cables is that they bend up if there is too much torque applied. The reverser does take some effort to move. I am going to a garden machine repair shop today to see what’s available. Will get back.
Hi simon, will take a look, thanks.
Hi chaps. I need to add an extension to the reverser, as the tender is 3 foot long and there is know way I will be able to operate this control. I will need to add a few u/j joints to the hex side of the reverser to allow me to operate this control from behind the tender. As anyone some good idea of the best way to do this, thanks. Michael
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