Here is a list of all the postings speelwerk has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: The Cambridge Turning Trials|
I have no experience with "hard turning" but this is what Hembrug write about it on its website.
|Thread: ER20 Collet Chuck Modification?|
Once tried to soften a hardened 2mt centre, even after several hours of glowing
it was still too hard to be worked with normal tools.
|Thread: Parting problems|
Seems a bit much for 12inch, but if you are in need of it.
|Thread: Hardening gauge plate|
1/8" (3mm) is thin and using water will probably distort your work, on the market is special hardening oil but probably difficult to get in small quantities.
Depending on the dimensions of your work you will need good size tank to hold it, dip it in quick, straigth and make sure to immerse it complete.
If you have delicate work you can coat it with a past (Condursal z 0095) too protect it against scaling.
|Thread: Strange Noise from Myford Super 7+|
My experience with a S7 learned me that you must be able, when turning between centers, to use reasonable pressure from the tailstock on the headstock spindle without seizing it. If that is not possible and the spindle seizes under that pressure you have to adjust the back angular bearings to give the spindle a little more slack at the front bearing. These adjustments are of course very little and you make it easier if you mark the position of the adjustment rings on the headstock casting before you make changes. I have been learned that when a lathe or mill is used for the first time on the day, you run it for few minutes at its lowest speed without load, so all bearings have the oil they need. If that is still necessary with modern machines I do not know, but the I would certainly do it with a Myford.
|Thread: Using Dies|
When making long threaded lengths with a die it is important to keep the die square to the shaft. That can be difficult with a handheld die holder, you can use the tailstock but íf you do that with too great pressure the die is forced to much which gives a ugly thread. A tailstock die holder keeps its square and eliminates that problem, but if do not have a tailstock holder you can use a handheld one with a special made guide. The guide starts with a hole that slides accurate over the shaft, than follows the die and this is than fitted in a normal handheld holder, the guide centres on the not yet threaded part of the shaft and keeps it very accurate square.
|Thread: 5mm Pitch Roller Chain|
No idea why the link did not worked, perhaps now,
This one perhaps?
|Thread: Lathe Carriage/Saddle Stop|
I you have the space you can retro-fit a clutch, I do not know an Englisch supplier but this German one is fine http://www.maedler.nl/Product/1643/1622/1650/2155/502.aspx?result=61200600. For little extra money they altered the boring and made a keyway on part nr 612 010 00 to fit the input shaft on my Myford gearbox. I fitted it on the wide 72 teeth input gear and it works fine. When you want to cut thread you change it for the normal one without clutch.
|Thread: Calculating wheel sizes from centres?|
Clock and watch makers in the 19th century used an "arondeer machine" (rounding up tool) to make the wheels fit. With it you can remove material from the teeth using the teeth itself as a guide. You can still find them on eBay and in auctions but you must have a good selection of the special cutters needed since these are no longer available, it is a very simple but useful machine.
|Thread: turning small diameters|
Perhaps someone with more experience can give me a few hints with turning small diameters. The new pinions I have to make with modul of 0,15mm have an arbor with a diameter of 0.45mm with a length of 6.5mm.
I have tried turning down the silversteel in small steps and in one go from about 1.2mm, both work but I would like to have a better surface finish. The finish on the old but damaged arbor made around 1810 is very good.
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