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Member postings for GaryM

Here is a list of all the postings GaryM has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Tools explained
25/08/2012 12:57:34

Thanks John, Andy and Ady. Still laughing.


Thread: marking / layout blue
22/07/2012 09:23:27

Hi David,

Like this:-


At that price I'll stick to a marker pen. It would probably outlast me.


Thread: You know you are an engineer when...
11/07/2012 13:53:50

It seems to me that there are some similarities between golf and engineering. They are both ways of doing something that is relatively easy in a more difficult way. The engineer will spend time making or repairing something that can often be bought more cheaply. And if the object of golf is to get the ball in the hole why start 200 yards away.

Also you know you are an engineer when you are reading this forum.


Thread: New "must see" technology
17/06/2012 13:32:00


What's a 3D drawing? Is it one where the parts keep changing shape as you look at them? Sorry, couldn't resist.


Thread: First cut
05/06/2012 22:02:18

Paul, Francis and Clive: Interesting alternative approach. Seems to cut at a hell of a rate. Something for the future maybe.


Edited By Gary Marland on 05/06/2012 22:04:20

05/06/2012 14:14:05

Bob: I have looked at that thread. Just goes to show there's a lot more to it than meets the eye.

Jason: A green grit wheel is on the shopping list but I think I'll have a go at grinding some HSS tools first before I make a mess of the ones I've bought.

KWIL: There are lots of sites with diagrams of the angles but they often contradict each other and they never seem to give anything more than a very vague description. I'll get on with some turning instead.

Ian: Another item for the shopping list.

Gordon: Thanks for the input.


04/06/2012 00:02:52

Thanks for the replies folks.

Ady: I'm beginning to see what you mean about it being a 'suck-it-and-see sport'. By nature I'm the exact opposite. I tend to read a lot before doing anything and like to know I'm doing the right thing before doing it. Leads to slow progress though.

Jason: I hoped that was the case as I would be more likely to make a mess of them at the moment. They are Axminster part no. 600825. The photo on their site doesn't help much. I'm not sure a photo will help as they look almost identical which is why I quoted the DIN number. I think the difference might be tip radius as one looks slightly sharper. As Ady says I'll just have to try it and see how it cuts.

Bazyle: You may be right. I read somewhere recently that most model engineers use the same lathe tool (a left hand knife tool) for 80% of all cutting.


03/06/2012 10:37:10

Why does this forum software seem to strip out all my carriage returns? face 5

03/06/2012 10:32:04


I've finally got some cutting done on my new lathe. I decided to make some 10mm filing buttons for the baseplate of the simple oscillating engine I'm attempting to make. I thought they would be a good beginner exercise and didn't need to be too accurate.
The first facing cut left a tiny pip, so obviously I hadn't set the tool height as well as I thought I had. A little extra packing solved this. Then I tried a turning cut. Started with very light cuts (5 thou/0.125mm). Seemed to go reasonably although I had no idea what speed the lathe was running at. I set the speed control at about 9 o'clock hoping this was about 500 rpm but no way of checking at present. I know experienced users can tell from the sound or feel of the cut but I'm not there yet. Anyway, after a few cuts and confidence increased I upped the cut to 10 thou/0.25mm. The finish wasn't brilliant but it's not bad for my first attempt. I then drilled them to 4mm and, not being brave enough to try the parting tool yet, hacksawed them off. I then reversed them in the chuck and faced the other side.
I have a couple of questions for anyone.
I bought a set of carbide tipped tools that are typically sold as accessories for mini lathes. I didn't feel confident grinding my own from HSS blanks but having read more now I think I might get some and have a go. Identification of the individual tools was fairly straightforward for most of the tools (boring bars, parting tool etc.) but I ended up with two that looked very similar. They have DIN numbers on the side but I couldn't find a reference as to what the difference was between them. The numbers are 4977 and 4978. I chose to use 4978 but would like to know if this was correct.
Also, are these tools supplied ready to use or do they need final honing like a chisel would?
Thanks for any replies.

Edited By Gary Marland on 03/06/2012 10:33:50

Thread: First post and lathe mounting
23/05/2012 13:54:57

Ian, as supplied by Axminster in the UK it just comes with a 3-jaw self-centring chuck. Spare wheels are also becoming a rarity on some modern cars.


22/05/2012 21:49:14

Hi Ady1

Thanks for the idea. Certainly food for thought and a lot cheaper. One of the things that I like about engineers in general is the way they like to come up with alternative ways of doing things. I think I've inherited that gene from my dad. I've just got hold of a pair of stainless steel shelves that were being thrown away at work and am going to use them as a swarf tray instead of the rather small one supplied with the lathe. I'll have a read of your thread later.

Hi Norman

Thanks for your comments. One thing I've started doing since getting interested in model engineering is looking in the skip at work everyday to see if anything useful is being thrown out. Everything becomes a potential resource.


22/05/2012 16:10:38

Hi Ian,

I didn't get the DRO add-on. I thought I might learn more using it the old fashioned way to start with. I can always buy them later (bit expensive though). I went a bit mad with other accessories though, mainly due to the price increases mentioned in my previous reply. 4-jaw independent chuck, faceplate, vertical slide and quick change tool post.

Just got to get making something now.


21/05/2012 22:51:41


Thanks for all the advice guys.
Ketan: a little explanation. I first decided which lathe to buy just before the end of last year with the intention of buying it sometime in the new year when the weather warmed up a bit. The choice came down to the Axminster one and your Super C3 with the balance tipping in favour of ARC. I was considering whether to pay the extra to have it prepared by ARC or have a go myself. Anyway, just after Christmas, the 2012 Axminster catalogue dropped on the mat and I was shocked to find the price had gone up by 25% (£120). I quickly checked their web site and it was still £510 so I checked the ARC web site and you were out of stock. I thus made the quick decision to buy one from Axminster and have a go at the preparation myself (admittedly using your guide). This preparation and the fact that I built a new bench to sit it on and re-organised the garage as a workshop explain why I still haven't actually turned anything yet. I did come along to the Harrogate show with a shopping list compiled from the ARC catalogue only to find you had just brought machines to the show. If that was you on the ARC stand you might remember me asking if you had another stand somewhere else in the hall. Promise to order something soon.
Andy: Your answer and Ketans seem to confirm that it is rigid enough as it is and that bolting down might make things worse. I'll take this into account and try it just on the feet and see how it goes.
Richard: Thanks for the advice but I think I'll give the RSJ a miss for the time being.

Edited By Gary Marland on 21/05/2012 22:52:43

21/05/2012 14:08:43

Hi everyone,
I've just bought my first lathe (a SIEG SC2 from Axminster) and intend having a go at a simple oscillating engine like the one on "Steve's workshop" site.
What I would like to ask is how accurately does it need to be mounted on the workbench. I've read about using a DTI to check alignment but is this over the top for the quality of the machine. I am thinking of bolting it to a sheet of 18mm ply. If it needs an adjustable mounting on each foot I would have to drill out the threaded hole that is there already (which I am reluctant to do) or alternatively bolt a flat bar to each foot and then have adjustment on the ends of the bars.
Any thoughts?
Thanks for any help.
Gary Marland
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