Here is a list of all the postings The Novice Engineer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Any tips for Machining (turning down) a Hardened (60c) shaft on a Myford 7|
I am looking for any tips or experience of turning down the ends of a hardened (60c) shaft on a Myford 7.
The shaft is for a 3D printer and I want to turn the ends down from 12mm to 8mm for a distance of 25mm on each end.
I have been trying a few cuts with mixed resullts using a CCMT insert tool.
The core of the rod is soft (ish) and the surface has been hardened and polished.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today (2017)|
Oh you Too !
I thought it was just me
Used my CNC mill to make up some tapered wedges to keep the Christmas Tree upright in the Tree Stand!
At long last maybe some thing useful that might keep SWMBO quiet for a couple of hours !
|Thread: Chilled cast iron|
I was given some old cast iron sash weights that had a hard surface like yours.
I cut anend off with an angle grinder and then tested the core with a centre punch to determine the
depth of hard ness, some went to the scrap man!
I then used a carbide tool to get through the surfaces of the ones I felt usable.
Hope this helps
|Thread: Homebush 2015|
Maybe the Southern Hemisphere !
New Zealand ?
|Thread: Kennedy Power Hacksaw - Springing Back|
For my old Kennedy I used a spring from my spares box ...... A Mini accelerator return spring ...probably the same age as the hacksaw!
|Thread: How to cover a wooden bench top with a steel sheet|
My Bench tops are 1" [25mm] Block board with 3mm Aluminium. They are around 20years old now and still in good condition.
The Aluminum tops are only held with countersunk screws no glue [ in case I needed to replace them] They were folded up by a friendly sheet metal firm to give a 2" upstand at the back and folded over the edge of the board at the front. I cut them to fit with a Jig saw and metal cutting blade.
|Thread: What milling machine|
From my experience go for the biggest you can fit /afford.
My first mill was Warco WM14 size/style. It was great for doing small steam engines but I started doing bigger and bigger projects and ran into issues with the table not having suffient travel or being able to fit the parts under the head . The final straw .. burning out the motor after being too impatient taking too big a cut.
I replaced it with a Major Gear Head Mill / Drill. Good work envelope and more power for getting the jobs done. If I was going to change I would look at a similar size machine but with a Dovetail column and inverter speed control.
Just my two penny worth
|Thread: Inverter Tripping RCD|
This maybe an old topic but still relevant to keep updated.
I have problems with VFD's [Variable Frequency Drives aka Inverters] tripping RCDs in the workshop . It seems worse with an RFI Filter wired before the VFD [some units have the Filter built in so can't be bypassed.] . In the past I have put the VFD on to a Non RCD protected circuit [Industrial Practice] but with a change of workshop this hasn't been possible [easily!] so I have been looking a bit deeper into the RCD topic
Recently I came across this article that should be of interest. Besides the sales push there is good information The Type F RCD has been specifically developed to cope with Motor inverter drives
So far the target price looks around £150 [compared to ~£25 for a good quality Type A RCD]
Another short article explains some of the difference between the differing Types of Circuit Breakers and RCD's
The other information that I have discovered is that Type AC RCD's should never be used with an Inverter, they are designed for lighting and heater loads.
The Type A RCD should be used, or preferably Type A-APR RCD.
There is also another type recommended called a Time Delay RCD and this is designed to cope with the transient surge typically from an Inverter at power-up. Though these are not easy to find and do come a bit pricy as the ones readily available seem to be 100Amp whole house protection [allowing local downstream RCD's to trip without plunging the whole house into darkness], I'm aiming for a 32 Amp version for the workshop/garage.
Trust this might be useful.
|Thread: Cataracts [ocular, not Hardinge]|
I've had cataract operations on both eyes and on recommendation from the surgeon I have one lens set to long distance [ miles] and the other set for close [arms length].
It didn't take long [hours] to get use to the set up and find it very easy to do just about anything, Driving, games , using computer, shopping , reading etc... the only issue is in the workshop I need a bit more clarity to see what I'm working on in the vice and machines and to check things close up, for this I have a pair of Intermediate/Reading Glasses [ . I'm thinking of getting Vari-focals so I don't have to push up or look over the glasses when away from the bench].
I've been short-sighted and wearing glasses or contact lenses since I was 10 [Varifocals for last 15 years] so the freedom to see clearly with out them has been great, especially in the morning .... no groping around to find the glasses!
One issue I did have [with both eyes] about 6 months after the cataract operations the vision started to blurr ... this was due to a membrane in the eye growing over the lens. This was cut away by YAG laser in about 30 seconds at the Eye clinic with full vision restored after the eye drops had worn off [hours]
|Thread: Which is better, 2 big or 4 small? (Bolts)|
The clamping force of the bolt is achieved by 'stretching' the bolt and the greater the free length that can be stretched the easier it will be to tighten. The 'taper' hole can be formed by relievng the first couple of threads at the top of the tapped hole.
Edited By The Novice Engineer on 04/03/2013 22:30:18
Looking at the information
4 x m6 is best ...though if you can fit 3x M8 you will get around 50 % increase in the clamping force
As a rule of thumb the depth of the tapped hole should be at least 1.5 x thread diameter or you will pull out the threads as you tightened the HT bolts.
You could also use some loctite on the joint ...... belt and braces
Some good info here
Edited By Katy Purvis on 06/03/2013 09:31:23
|Thread: LBSC Juliet for 3.5"|
After buying some castings on E-bay ......that turned out to be for Rob Roy ....I bid on another lot that came with a set of drawings for Juliet and a bundle of cuttings of the original articles ...plus as a bonus a typed up copy of the articles !!
So I have all the information .... and a good collection of castings . that will keep me occupied for a while.
|Thread: Milling Machine problem|
I had a similar Chinese Mill that made horrible noise at speed and kept cutting out.
Turned out to be worn out /broken carbon brushes and burnt communtator.
I replaced the brushes and skimmed commutator ......fixed my problem.
I had read that some folk had replaced the early Chinese controller electronic boards with USA or Twianese manufactured items.
A friend has recommended that to check on the board to see if there is a current limit control. That will control the torque the motor willl deliver.
I had considered changing the DC motor for an AC 3 phase with an electronic controller. but thats another project .....
|Thread: Tich vs. Juliet|
From the very good index to ME I found the following re Oil Fired Boiler for Juliet
|Thread: LBSC Juliet for 3.5"|
Time has got the better of me I couldn't put the cutting of metal off any longer....I am progressing using copies of the original articles as well as bits from the Titch constructions series ...oh and a copy of LBSC's book Shop, Shed & Road.
|Thread: Tich vs. Juliet|
Here's my thoughts following the decision to start building a Juilet .....only because after starting out on a bigger engine the crashing realisation hit home ...I needed the experience of a small/ simpler one first ...and the Juliet castings were a bargin on e-bay
From my reading of the original LSBC articles Tich was a fully featured series designed for the beginer with all aspects of construction covered ...to the extent that they are published as a complete construction book.
The Juliet series were on the other hand constatntly refering back to previous construction projects , .and littered with phrases such as .."make these in the usual manner" .not very inspiring to a novice builder.
My current thoughts are that the Juliet is probably a better starter engine to as its bigger than Tich [read as easier for big hands] and can be built with different valve gear , coal or meths spirit fired boiler, and in different sizes !!
The down side is that there are no definitive construction books. Though I am using the Titch construction articles as well as the original Juliet and associated articles .
|Thread: LBSC Juliet for 3.5"|
I found a collection of Bound volumes of ME 1946 -51 ....so bought them.!
Now reading through them to put a build book together ....scan the pages enlarge the drawing and take a printout into the workshop to get grubby fingers all over .........all I need now is time.......
Any comments or advice on constructing Juliet will be appreciated.
I have a collection of ME from the 1950's and am planning to build the Juliet in 3.5" gauge following articles in the 1952 edition "Juliet with Outside Valve Gear".
However LBSC in his usual style doesn't include details that have been previously published and refers back to the original articles published in 1946/7 "Juliet The 0-4-0 Side Tank"
I have been looking for 1946 and 1947 volumes ...so far with little luck at a reasonable price.
Does anyone know if the Juliet construction articles were ever published as a consolidated booklet ?
Edited By The Novice Engineer on 23/02/2012 18:37:19
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