By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

Here is a list of all the postings I.M. OUTAHERE has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Exothermic Cutters
20/03/2012 20:58:23

Hi John .

From your original posting it sounded like you were doing a cut and shut job and not replacing whole panels .

The spot weld drill Terry mentioned will do the job and if used correctly you will have very little grinding work to do .

There are 2 types of drill though , one is the type as Terry mentioned (the best )other is like a small holesaw .

The latter leaves a circular piece attached to the parent panel and a hole in the one you removed thus needing a hit with a grinder .

The proper drill leaves a small dimple in the parent panel from the nib in the centre of the drill and a hole in the waste panel , if used correctly it will need almost no grinding of the parent panel .

I have also used a #4 centre drill to remove panels but in no way is it as good as the proper tool and you will be surprised how fast it is to use .

If you keep the speed of the drill down to 500rpm it is not that noisy and the bit will last a lot longer .

Regards ..

Ian

20/03/2012 00:04:26

Hi John .

Your main issues with anything that puts out heat (with the exception of a plasma cutter as the heat is intense and very localised ) is distortion of the panel you are cutting and fire.

The nibbler will do most things , will keep the noise down and what ever it can't do will still minimize the usage of a grinder then thier are reciprocating saws , jigsaws , shears etc that may get into places the nibbler cant .

Ian

Thread: Datum point problem
14/03/2012 01:13:53

Hi Wolfie.

Harolds posting jogged my memory and i remembered a little trick that one should always do when squaring up material on a Mill and that is to run an engineers square over the whole piece to ensure that the four sides are square to each other then do the same for the ends to find the highest point on the end and mark with a texta or some machinist blue etc .

This will allow you to set your first cut so it is removing material from the high point and the cutting forces will lessen as it traverses towards the lower portions , if you start at the low point and start cutting the cutter will have to remove more metal as it traverses the along and the cut will deepen .

If the ends are out of square more than say 2mm i would clean up first with a bastard file or small angle grinder .

Another source of info is some of the DVD productions available through Little Machine shop as these are set up on the X2 Mill and i found them quite well made and informative (they may be available through a retailer in the UK but i'm not sure as i'm in Australia and just about anything usefull has to come from overseas and that's where i bought mine.

IAN

13/03/2012 02:31:39

Hi Wolfie .

You don't need a vice mostly but they can be convent.

For square bar i use an angle plate with a piece of flat bar set up as a fence fitted to the angle plate ( and 90 degrees to the mill table or the face of the angle plate that will contact the mill table ) then mount the angle plate on the mill table so its face( the same one that the fence is bolted to ) is 90 degrees to the X axis , pack up the part i want to machine so its top surface clears the top of the angle plate with sufficient clearance for the needed removal of metal  then clamp it to the angle plate ensuring that is also set hard against the fence that is bolted to the angle plate .

Check out Harolds book ( Milling a complete course ) It is worth every penny and you will keep going back to it for reference many times !

If you dont have an angle plate it can be set up using a fence on the mill table itself but this requires a lot of care as you can mache into the table if not carefull !

Once again the book will reveal all !

 

Ian

 

Edited By ian bertenshaw on 13/03/2012 02:33:17

Thread: Flat battery
12/03/2012 02:20:20

Hi Bob.

Sub "C" NiMH are available but a quick price check here in Australia through an electronics outlet would drop about $180 AU out of the bank account to buy the 20 needed to attain 24v.

Yes there are probably cheaper here and in the UK so shop around !

The charger could also be what has killed the batteries as many battery packs don't have the internal temperature thermistor either fitted or connected (that is what the third terminal on the battery is for ) and some chargers don't have this third terminal fitted either .

This is to protect the battery pack from overheating when charging which kills batteries pretty quickly .

An Electonics magazine (silicon chip ) i read did some stories on this and also produced a charger kit that was available through Jaycar electronics but i'm sure Elektor magazine did the same in the UK .

A later edition saw an old battery drill revived with the use of 2 gell cell batteries mounted in a small plwood box with a carry handle on top , it was not as convenient as the drill with an internal battery but still had its uses as you did not need mains power to run it or have to run power leads everywhere .

IAN

Thread: Bead blasting a chuck?
01/03/2012 02:30:16

I clean rusty machine parts the same way i would to pre-pair a steel panel for paint .

1) mechanical clean using wire brushes( hand of power ) ,scourer pads etc and don't push to hard on the wire brush if it a powered unit as you will gall the surface .

2) Degrease using thinners or similar and let it dry .

3) De-oxidize using a rust converter (phosphoric acid type ) this can be purchased at auto parts stores etc - keep the solution fairly weak and wear your PPE !

4) Wipe off with 2 wet rags , one is to take the bulk of the acid off the second to clean off any residue and neutralise it .

5) Immediately rinse with Methylated spirits to pick up the moisture ( it absorbs water ).

You would then allow it to dry and oil it .

The rust converter will kill the rust left in the pits on the surface that mechanical cleaning won't remove and NO IT WILL NOT EAT THE PARENT MATERIAL AS LONG AS IT IS STEEL OR CAST IRON !

If you want a shiny appearance then polish with a scotchbrite wheel (green type similar to a buffing mop) mounted on a bench grinder of power drill.

Thread: Problems machining brass - Bad finish !
16/02/2012 21:05:32

I had a problem similar to this 2 weeks ago but i was machining some 36mm round bar for a T&C grinder .

It ended up being a belt problem as some of the lube i used on the back gears had flung off and contaminated the belt .

The belt on this machine at the moment is one of those horrible and expensive little vee belts that are only 4 or 5 mm across so it took only a small amount of contamination to cause some slippage .

After a clean all was well again but i think i will peg this system and go for a toothed belt and a decent variable speed set up so no more belt changes .

Ian

Thread: Forum niggles
13/02/2012 01:58:00
Yes a misleading thread title is very annoying as i usually scan over these for something of interest also .
Another thing is when you start reading a thread that interest you someone will drag it off in another direction and you end up with pages of stuff that has no relevance to the title, although there have been times when the string has wandered off subject and ended up being better for it !
 
IAN

Edited By ian bertenshaw on 13/02/2012 01:58:44

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Eccentric July 5 2018
Rapid RC
Eccentric Engineering
cowells
Dreweatts
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest