Here is a list of all the postings XD 351 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Unidentified engine castings|
Hi everyone or more correctly anyone who reads this
I picked these up for what i consider a reasonable outlay for some future engine projects .
The small block has a B cast on one side and 21 on the other ( seller states it is for a DB21 Diesel ) I cannot find any reference to it anywhere and it stands about 2-1/2 inches (63mm)or so high .
The bigger block has no markings and stands at a guess around 3 inches or 75mm tall and has a much lower deck height in relationship to the exhaust port compared with the other block so i would say it is a glow engine block.
If anyone recognises them please let me know !
I have had a good look around on the internet and the old model engine news website but can’t find anything that looks remotely like them .
p.s sorry about the upside down images damned ipad seems to orientate them as it wishes !
Edited By XD 351 on 04/12/2019 04:46:45
Edited By XD 351 on 04/12/2019 04:49:54
Edited By JasonB on 04/12/2019 06:54:45
|Thread: Cracking a bolt|
Microscopic galling on the thread surfaces and between the bolt head and parent metal ?
|Thread: Reamer size questions|
I bought a set of over and under reamers 1/8 to 1/2 and they are supposed to cut .001 inch under and .001 over - more like on on size and .002 over ! This will probably get better with use or at least i hope so !
Is it possible for you to make and use a toolmakers reamer ?
When everything else fails Loctite prevails ! I”m sure there is an advertising slogan in there somewhere 😀
|Thread: MEW 288 Readers Tips|
+1 on that comment !
Bit of a bugger if you lose one half though 😁
|Thread: Rake angle on Cutting Tools.....memory tips???|
Edited By XD 351 on 22/11/2019 01:50:33
10-15 deg on everything except with a tool for brass or bronze as I don’t touch the top of the cutting tool so no side or back rake .
Easy way is to set up your grinder so the tool rest is at the centre height of the armature shaft then grind the end of a piece of square mild steel that is the same size as your tool bit , adjust the height to get the angle on the end something in the range i listed above and lock it down . You can grind 95% of the tool bits you will ever need at that setting and you will only need to fine tune the settings for something that is or can be problematic like stainless or copper .
Side cutting edge angle - I don’t bother as i just rotate the tool post around a little if i feel i need one but one thing to remember is that the angle between the front cutting edge and side cutting edge must be less than 90 deg so the trailing edge of the front cutting edge doesn’t rub -I usually just use the same clearance as the other edges as it is set up already on the grinder .
If you are into making clocks you will probably be machining brass most of the time and the most important thing with a tool for brass is that it has been honed to give a good smooth finish on the cutting edges and is razor sharp .
Sharpening tool bits or drill bits by hand isn’t difficult it is just a matter of understanding the technique and practicing it !
|Thread: Rod Stewart's Model Railway|
Hot legs ?
looking at this lathe I’m now wondering if it was made for Jake the peg !
That railway is a masterpiece !
Edited By XD 351 on 15/11/2019 01:50:28
Edited By XD 351 on 15/11/2019 01:51:26
|Thread: MEW renewal problems|
That is as far as i got ! Click the pay now thingy and it spits back a message that we don’t deliver there or supply there .
I think i will go the auto renew so next time I don’t need to think about it ! It would be nice though if i could log into my account and check a box for auto renewal or uncheck it if i wanted to go back to manual renewal but it appears this can only be done when i fill out the subscription form and want to renew my subs .
With my internet security account i can log in anytime i want and change this and they simply notify me a few weeks before that my subscription will be automatically renewed on this date and this is how much that will be debited from my debit card - super easy to manage and they even send me a message if my card is about to expire so i can update my details .
I think the biggest problem with cheque’s is that by the time they get to their destination the exchange rate has changed so what you send isn’t worth the same a week later !
Edited By XD 351 on 15/11/2019 01:31:06
|Thread: Metric micrometer what t buy?|
I think the tri scale callipers only give an approximation of the nearest fraction .
Yes a digital calliper or mic will convert inch to metric and visa versa but i have yet to see one that can give the sum of a series of fractions and then convert that to a decimal number !
I am currently working on an engine that all of the dimensions on the drawing are given in fractions so i have to first convert these to decimal then add them together to find the length of a part etc - Major PIA !
The app - Fractions calculator does this with ease and gives the decimal equivalent automatically .
The solution is simple - a calculator !
I use a fractions calculator on my ipad to add up dimensions on drawings that are given in fractions then convert it to decimal which alleviates headaches !
|Thread: Inverters and stop switches|
You may have to do a screen shot and save the image .
I think the reason they don’t show any external components except the pot is the pins X1-6 are configurable for many different inputs so they simply show them as switchable and as the switches shown are open this tells me a normally open Momentary contact switch that pulls the pin to ground to activate it . The pins for the pot are dedicated so they show that component with its value .
Noisy fans are a common issue with these inverters and i have seen one youtube video where they changed the fan - simple job one might think but he ended up having to disassemble the entire unit to get the fan out !
You could possibly disconnect the noisy unit and rig up some big pc case fans that come on with the mains power .
I think this manual is the same as Brians .
The parameters you need to change are pretty straightforward:
P10 and P11 set the control input source - if you want to mount a controller box on the machine you set these to external.
P50-P55 set what the X1-X6 terminals do .
You shouldn’t have to change any other settings .
|Thread: 2-4-6 block woes|
i have a set that are all over the place dimensionally making them useless as parallels , may as well use them as anvils !
|Thread: Yet another 'which mill shall I buy'|
So how many of you Bridgie owners use all the features ?
A Bridgeport is a toolmakers mill and not a heavy mill , yes it has some very useful abilities but they are things you will rarely use - like nodding the head etc.
You can get a Bridgeport clone for close to the same money that you will pay for a decent second hand Bridgeport but seriously do you really need all the features of a Bridgie ?
I prefer to set the workpiece up for angle milling or drilling as it is easier and doesn't require tramming the head afterwards .
I run a HM46 Hafco which i think there is a Chester equivalent and i have never felt the need for anything bigger .
|Thread: Tramming The WM18 mill head|
I had a problem like this and found that the mounting surface for the column to base had some burrs and some gunk in there , after a clean my readings improved but were still not perfect .
I layed a thick parallel on its side across the table and re checked the front to rear tram and it was spot on so i think my table has a dip in the middle or the top of one t slot is a little low .
If i set up a test bar in the spindle (after i tram the head) i can move the head up and down on the column and get a zero reading on both the x and y axis along the z axis column travel so i know the column is perpendicular to the table in the x and y axis - you should also then get a zero on these axis using the quill feed .
This becomes even more tricky with the old tilting column X2 Sieg mills because you have a tilting column and a headstock made from two separate pieces which can also move .
|Thread: Inverters and stop switches|
I think the important thing to remember is that we are talking about a domestic installation and not an industrial one !
For the simplest installation all you need is :
A latching stop switch for an emergency stop - IMHO all machines should have one of these, whether it is cutting off the mains power or telling an inverter to stop is irrelevent as long as the machine has one that works .
A momentary pushbutton switch for a start switch and the same for a stop switch , you can use a toggle switch for forward / reverse switching as it only changes which terminal the start switch is connected to ( you will have start fwd and start rev on the inverter ) the stop is connected to reset and you can usually configure e stop in the programme to use a terminal suit your needs .
My mini lathe is running a 3 ph motor and inverter ( see my photo library ) and the only other thing i have is a mains power switch mounted next to the lathe head to turn it all on and if i was pedantic enough i might even turn that off while i fiddle around mounting something on the faceplate ! . What is the make and model of your inverter Brian ? Maybe i can download a copy and try to make some sense of it for you .
Back to the discussion -
In all seriousness once the E-stop is active no input signal of any kind should turn the inverter output on - it is in the programming ! , even if the IGBT'S failed and went short they would only supply DC and fry the motor coils .
If you have an inverter that is activating randomly you have issues with shielding and / or transient voltages .
|Thread: Another unfortunate milestone reached?|
I watch a youtube channel called Mr Carlson's lab , he restores and uses a lot of vintage test gear that is designed for repairing vintage radios and i often wonder what a service person back in those days would make of a modern oscilloscope or what a modern service person would make of a Vedolyzer or the like !
One thing i do know is the old stuff still looks better !
Hi Martin ,
There are designs for things like wobbler engines that require nothing more than a couple of drill bits a drill (electric or hand ) a hacksaw a small file ,some superglue and a small vise .
I think for a newcomer the biggest thing to overcome is the hesitance to ask questions on this and other forums and once the ice is broken i generally find that 99% of the forum members literally bend over backwards to help that new member .
Currently Neil and Jason are respectively running their excellent Lathe work and Milling for beginners series in MEW which i feel will help a newcomer immensely , The Editors of ME & MEW are really at the mercy of the contributors as to what they get in the way of projects and can only publish what they get .
One thing i would suggest to a newcomer is if they are going to subscribe to either or hopefully both Magazines is to go digital as it give access to the back issues and they can gain an immense amount of knowledge from those back issues along with many projects to build .
|Thread: Indoor R/C Flight & a whole lot more|
Never seen anything like it before ! Amazing skills and models !
LMAO watching the the witch !
|Thread: Painting! There one day, gone the next!|
I like deep brunswick green on my engines with red on the flywheels or machine grey with red in the flywheels , both are epoxy enamel paints like killrust or metalgaurd etc .
|Thread: piston rings|
I'm currently building the same engine and ended up increasing the bore diameter to 40mm so i can use the rings off a mini dirt monkey bike that are sold on ebay , they are dirt cheap to buy and you can get the pistons cheap as well .
I made my own cast iron piston as per the drawing but had to make a couple of adjustments as the 40mm rings are thicker .
I was originally going to use the 1 1/2 bore size and have the rings for that( costly little things they are !) but when machining the cylinder from cast bar it relieved itself and went oval so i had to rebore it and then i lapped it .
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