Member postings for Greensands

Where were all the hard spots?

As explained in my previous post, failure is in the recording of all three of the external functions i.e. temperature, rain gauge and wind speed data. Humidity data is a function of the internal unit and as with all the other inputs controlled by the display unit is working perfectly.

Hi John - The unit is fitted outside the house and it is currently acting in an erratic fashion. Recently I have been able to get it working for a short periods after which the display station then fails to record external temperature/water gauge/wind speed data I have not (yet) tried spraying with a switch cleaner but in the process I have learnt the technique of removing and then replacing the batteries in each unit followed by offering up the remote unit to the base station in order to carry out a reset. On replacing the batteries in the remote the red LED indicator is seen to come on and then to go off, followed by a flashing mode and final linking to the display station all of which I understand indicates a fully working unit. As an aside I have made contact with a company in Leatherhead Surrey claiming to offer a repair service. Replacement remote units as advertised on the Amazon website are not currently available and they have a question mark hanging over the possibility of any future supplies.

Hi all - The remote sensor unit of my Type N96GY Maplin Weather station has developed a fault but before calling in some professional help I just wondered if anyone on the forum has had any experience of carrying out their own repairs and maybe can offer some useful advice. Although some 6/7 years old now all the sockets and battery connections appear to be in excellent condition and I would like to be able to get it back working again.

I had one of these at one time but although a later model it never felt like a proper Mk.7/8 AVO

I have found that an excellent way of freeing up and maintaining a domestic paper shredder is simply to spray WD40 onto the cutter blades, paying no particular attention in controlling exactly where it the goes into or onto the working mechanism. Works wonders!

I have recently acquired a couple of small (1.5" throat) G-clamps fitted with an 8mm dia screw which need to be reduced in overall length in order to fit under my limited height milling table. The obvious way of achieving this is to shorten the screw from the tommy bar end but it has prompted the thought as to just how one might go about making up a replacement screw complete with a new swivel foot. Has anyone had a go at making up their own swivel feet?

Thanks for all the very interesting replies. The idea is for the wooden disc to be an easily replaceable fitting and the use of magnets as opposed to an adhesive would appear to be the way ahead for use as an occasional plotting table. Pinkgrip is a new one on me and so I will need to explore. Other possible uses of the table would be for some light milling exercises akin to engraving where loads would not be excessive.

Should have attached these two pics to illustrate the table and disc.

Hi - Can anyone suggest a possible method of attaching a 9" diameter by 3/4" thick wooden disc onto a 5" diameter rotary table without if possible breaking through to the top surface. The object is to use the disc as a rotary paper drawing board with a fine tipped pen loaded into the spindle and it is therefore desirable to keep the upper surface free from any indentation. The rotary table as can been seen is fitted with the conventional Tee slots. All suggestions and ideas are most welcomed.

Can anyone help me to locate a copy of Don Young's first edition No.1 of his "Locomotives Large and Small". Experience has shown that despite all the following issues being relatively easy to find, Issue No.1 is as rare as hen's teeth. In the unlikely event of actually finding an original copy I would be quite happy to cover the costs of photocopying with P&P if that was an option.

Don's articles are written around the construction of his 5" gauge A1/A3 pacific, Part 1 of which was published in LLAS No.16 but with the main build beginning in LLAS No.19. It might be worth considering however that on page16 of issue No.19 he makes the observation that by 1963 the design of the A3/A4 had ....."moved closer together in constructional detail, so that with the main exception of the cylinders, they were alike." This I am sure would be disputed by many but nevertheless I think you will find the detail given for the A3 would prove to be extremely useful for an A4

You will find a lot of information on the A4 in Don Young's now defunct publication "Locomotives Large and Small" commonly referred to as LLAS.

According to the piece in today's Times newspaper (page 16).........."This is denied by Ethanol Europe, the industry group which said yesterday that E10 caused no damage to older vehicles, pointing out that it is the only form of petrol used in the USA and most of Europe". How one wonders then do the owners of older cars cope in the US?

Now we are all obliged to use E10 grade petrol I have yet read exactly what the potential hazards might be for the owners of classic cars. I find it difficult to understand how such a small increase in bio fuel content from 5 to 10% can present any significant damage to engine seals/gaskets of cars of that period.

Many thanks for the info

Anyone know of a likely source of 1/4" O/D by 16G (or its nearest metric equivalent) copper pipe/tubing? I have a short length dug up from under the bench but just wondered where I might be able to obtain further lengths should the need arise. Currently being used to make up some relatively tight and neat bends with the ends drilled out to receive 5/32" dia copper pipework.

Hi Duncan Yes, another pic would be helpful

Can anyone suggest a means of ruggedising the electrical connection to the Type 17 stepper motor as illustrated in the photo as the 4 lead connection provided with the motor is far from being workshop proof. One problem is that I do not know the correct term or type reference for this type of cable connection or whether or not more purposeful plugs exist which can mate directly with the socket which is a 6-way, the cable connection being 4-way. Any ideas or suggestions as to how to go about making the assembly more workshop proof would be much appreciated.

I have been playing around with a Type 17 stepper motor using the Gary Liming Arduino sketch running with a UNO/Type 6600 Driver but could do with some help with some fairly basic questions regarding tweaking the software. Basically I would like to know how to increase the speed of rotation by say a factor of 2 or 3. Currently the micro-stepping DIP switch is set 8 but what is the significance of 'front end gearing' and the sketch variable GearRatio1top equal to 3? Any assistance on the subject would be much appreciated.