Here is a list of all the postings MadMike has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Cuttings an 8tpi thread in free cutting silver steel|
As Jason pointed out the core diameter will present problems in cuttink an 8TPI Acme thread. Even with your depth o.050 the core is still only .056 diameter.
|Thread: Long time Lurker coming out of the Shadow :)|
Rob if you haven't used a lathe before you are welcome to visit me and we can go through some basics to start you on the long road to lathe madness. LOL.
I am in Narborough.
|Thread: Workshop lighting|
Like others on here I have also looked at the lighting in my garage/workshop. I originally had 6 x 8 foot fluorescent tubes, plus 4 foot tubes over the bench and the lathe.
I opted for six 600 x 600mm LED light panels suspended on catenary cables. The difference is frankly outstanding. I now use my bench, lathe and mill without the small local lights. I can also rebuild my bikes without using any additional free standing lighting. In order to get the best efect for working I opted for Cold White panels.
After the change, some 3 years ago I have not needed to replace any panels and they are also effective during bright summer days. The panels are really as cheap as chips on ebay, and I would not even consider strip lights regardless of type.
|Thread: Bolts or studs|
Colin I think you are almost correct, however, and I am surprised that nobody has mentioned it, studs should ideally have two different thread pitches. The coarse one going into the casting or other major component. the end that accepts the nut should be a fine pitch thread e.g. BSW thread into a casting and BSF for the nut. This allows the stud to be secured into, say a casting and tightened down. When the nut is fitted this arrangement allows the fine thread to become the one that applies tightening torque and clamping pressure. So far so good, however when it becomes necessary to dismantle the assembly the differing thread piches will seldom operate together, which allows the nut to be removed without loosening the stud in a casting. Anybody who has ever dismantled a British motorbike will know that in 99% of cases undoing the cylinder head nuts does not loosen the studs.
|Thread: Facing parallel between centres.|
Well I have read and re-read this entire thread. What machine are you turning the riser on? Is it a new and calibrated tool room lathe? Or a Chinese hobby lathe or maybe a Myford?
Before all the discussion about concave faces, turning between centres etc etc it would be reasonable to ask if the face plate to which the riser was bolted has been clocked to determine if it has no run out. Then of course the inevitable question has been missed.........just how accurate do you expect it to be and what tolerences are you working to?
I am amazed that as "engineers" nobody has even attempted to get to the bottom of the component tolerancing and the machine and even the machinists capability.
|Thread: Supporting both ends of stock in lathe|
All the general rules about projection from the chuck are OK, but frankly are not the real answer here,
We need more information.
What is the length of the piece of stock you are intending to turn?
Will there be larger diameters on the finished item?
Depending upon the answer to the last question, why are using 9.5mm bar to produce 4mm? Why not start with 5 or 6mm stock?
How accurate do you need to be?
All things being equal why not simply centre drill each end and mount the piece os stock between centres and use a travelling steady?
|Thread: Door stay help|
I suggest that the "stay" is actually designed to stop the door opening past 90 degrees to thus prevent the door/farme/hinges becoming damaged. I am not aware of a "stay" designed for a full size door which is designed to hold the door at any fixed position between closed and the 90 degree position. A skiding block as described can only work in one position.......fully opened. Having sufficient friction to resist wind pressure, or allow easy opening/closing on a sliding stay is just about impossible. Again I suggest that the renedy should be provided by the suppliers. After all AJW when you asked for "stays" did you agree exactly what the fitting was supposed to achieve. the sliding device you have described is a stay designed to hold the door at 90 degrees.
Incidentally the multiple position "restrictor stay" suggested earlier is designed for windows, and nor full size doors. It will give a retricted opening of probably not much more that 100-150 mm for ventilation without jeopardising security.
Edited By MadMike on 12/08/2020 22:47:21
Nine months old? get the crew back that fitted it. Do not alter anything until they have sorted it as they will simply accuse you of tampering.
|Thread: Airbrushing advice needed|
Talking about Pulse/ram jets, here is my totally sane accountant friend who has fitted a jet to his moped/sidecar outfit. Oooops how do i rotate 90 degrees clockwise?
Edited By MadMike on 10/08/2020 17:16:07
Edited By MadMike on 10/08/2020 17:17:58
Edited By JasonB on 10/08/2020 17:18:16
|Thread: Triumph motorcycle auction|
Are you guys serious about never seeing a Hinckley Triumph? they have been making them in Hinckley for about 30 years and as a business they are a true British success story. However like most companies in the "motor trade" they have taken to building their machines in the far east. there are obvious cost benefits, and of course that is where they see future growth potential. It is simply another case of globalisation which afflicts/benefits nearly all manufacturing industries. For example look at where your American iphone is made......China. Your BMW motorcycle is often made in Thailand or China. Washing machines, clothes all electronic equipment all made in the far east. Indeed even hobby lathes and mills are from where? Oh yes China.
Oh yes I forgot to add apart from my Nortons, and a 1959 Meriden built Triumph, I also have a Hinckley built Triumph.
Edited By MadMike on 08/08/2020 23:12:00
Edited By MadMike on 08/08/2020 23:17:02
|Thread: Is a drip feed coolant advisable|
I guess that the coolant feed method is really dependent upon what you make, the material being cut and the type of machine being used. I use traditional machines, a Myford 254S and a Seig mill. So I tend to simply pump feed coolant to the cutting surface. In my early days the use of drip feed and mist were frowned upon, as our apprentice trainer insisted that coolant is exactly that, coolant. He was adamant the simply brushing, squirting from a squeezy bottle or drip feeding would not do very much except make the work piece dirty. I continue in this way to this day and the result is higher cutting speeds, better finish and longer tool life. Other opinions are available.
|Thread: Using Counterbores|
I have over the years found that the quality of commercially available cap screws has deteriorated, particularly if they are sourced from China. As I use them on parts for my motorbikes and on friends bikes, I make two mods. Firstly I mount them in a collet, and lightly remove the radius that has grown over the years where the head meets the main shank. Then I turn the outer diameter of the cap head to make it truly round and concentric with the main bolt shank. Over the years I have made and/or sourced counter bore tools to suit the modified head dimensions. This means a much tighter fit and a much more precise appearance to the finished work.
|Thread: where to buy a good open morse taper 4->3 sleeve|
Well I would have absolutely no hesitation in buying the MT4/3 socket from Arc Euro. However before doing that perhaps it would be wise to clock the machine spindle to see if it has excessive run out, and/or play in the bearings.
|Thread: New hobby lathe for retired engineer?|
I guess that after all this discussion it would help to move things along, and hopefully allow people to make alternative suggestions if we knew your budget. The sort of spec you have identified almost certainly does not exist in the Chinese mini-lathe market. Remember that Ketan, who sells fine machines, has openly turned away your business because of your spec which then may actually exceed your expectations. So how much do you want to spend?
It occurs to me also that if we knew roughly where you are located then some, including me and I suspect my friend Chris Evans, may be able to let you see their alternatives. I do not have a lathe as big as Chris's but it will cope with a 10 inch diameter swing. It is a Myford 254S and is far superior in every respect, in my opinion, than the traditional ML7 etc Myford's and every Chinese mini-lathe on the market. I live in Leicestershire and less than an hour from Chris. So when this lockdown is over, and you are close to the East Midlands, come and visit and see what can be done in regard to motorbike parts. HTH.
|Thread: Srorm Ciara|
I /we have no doubt felt the force of Storm Ciara. However I see that Mytholmroyd in West Yorkshire has suffered both flooding and storm damage. Mytholmroyd is, of course, the home of RDG and thus Myford. Does anybody know if they have suffered any damage? I certainly hope that they are all safe.
|Thread: Run outs|
What Howard says is correct and actually very fundamental to the accuracy of turned work. Whilst you have clocked the nose of your lathe, what you need to do, if you have not done so, is to insert a length of bar into your collet and turn the piece. Then clock the work piece itself, and you will probably find that your small amount of run out will disappear. It is run out on a finished piece which matters after all.
|Thread: 3 jaw runout problems|
Thanks for that clarification Richard. I have a 3 JC which has no dimensional problems such as you describe, and if I turned some stock, the opened the jaws and rotated the piece by 90 degrees as you describe, I would not expect the component to be any different to the one you describe. As I said earlier a 3JC is merely a holding device not an accurate fixture or jig. The only ways to get the component to run true after releasing it from the chuck are as I described earlier. If you fancy a trip to Leicestershire then I will happily demonstrate the problems and the solutions for you. I have a D1/3 Camlock fixing on my 3JC and so at least the chuck will always locate in the same place. Let me know if you fancy a trip to discuss and play.
I was aware of the nature of the chuck jaw mounting from Richards description. However there remained the real state of the term "running out" and he has now clearly identified that there is no run out when in operation. Which leads me to one last question for Richard if I may...……….when you measured the "run out" of 0.3mm on one jaw, was that with the jaws clamping on a piece of stock, or were the jaws unclamped?
Richard, thank you for confirming that in reality there is zero run out using your 3 jaw chuck.
So your concern is really that if you remove the part from the chuck and turn it, presumably end for end, to turn the unmachined end then it will probably not match the pre-machined diameters. Frankly this will occur using any 3 jaw chuck, no matter how true it appears to rotate. Remember that a 3 jaw chuck is no more than a work holding device, it is NOT an accurate fixture/jig to allow for repositioning.
How to overcome this problem? Well there are a number of options which will depend upon size of turned piece, available equipment, your skill level and, not least, your available funds.
(1) Get a 4 jaw chuck and clock in the reversed component to stand a chance of matching the pre-turned diameter.
(2) Get some soft jaws and turn a suitable size to receive the part.
(3) Use a collet to re-locate the piece.
(4) Turn the component between centres and remove the problems associated with any kind of chuck.
Although there are many "valid" suggestions on this thread, you will only truly resolve the problem by identifying the cause, rather than focussing on the symptom(s) that you have seen.
As Howard has asked, where are you located? If you ere near to Leicester then you will be most welcome to come and visit me for a more detailed discussion, or I am happy to come to you if that is easier.
Richard thanks for your reply. I understood what you had discovered from your earlier posting. What I was trying to establish was what happens when you put a piece of say 3/4 or 1 inch bar in the chuck and turn down the OD by say a 1/4 of an inch (6mm). Do you get a round bar of common size along its length, and which is not tapered or eccentric?
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