Here is a list of all the postings Muzzer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: For discussing the merits of alternative 3D CAD programs.|
Seems Atom is quite a cut down version compared to the more expensive Pro and Expert versions. There seems to be a hell of a lot of features missing. Take a look - there's a comparison table here. And a pricing table here.
Have to admit I'm a bit biased, having used quite a few CAD systems now and having settled for Fusion. But bear in mind that if you invest 6 months of your time in this product you are going to have to cough up to continue using it and retain access to any work you do with it. That's £200, £940 or £1540 to pay for the CAD plus £300 or so per year for the optional maintenance (aka bug fixes) and £475 for the CAM if you decide to get into that.
With Fusion you the equivalent of the top end Alibre product or better, plus simultaneous mulitiaxis (professional) CAM, FEA etc etc - for free. You could buy yourself a half decent machine with the money you save....
Edited By Neil Wyatt on 27/10/2018 15:53:03
|Thread: Spindle design|
Looks very complicated. Surely it doesn't matter where the wavey washer sits, so you could get rid of the pink and blue between the outer bearing race and housing and instead just fit the wavey washer next to your tightening nut?
But unless you define the amount of compression with positive stops, the wavey washer will simply bottom out and you won't have any control of the preload force and might as well not bother with it.
|Thread: Does anyone recognize this grinder ?|
A Super Adept grinder perhaps?
|Thread: Milling machine drawbar|
The reason you might want to use a more complex(??) solution is because often the bore in the spindle is larger than the threaded part of the drawbar. In that situation, if you just use studding, it won't self-centre. Not a show stopper but at the sorts of speeds you should be using it will be out of balance with nothing to locate it. Given that most of us here have the machinery to do it properly, it seems a pity to see the handbags coming out - some sort of inverse snobbery there!
One other "simple" option is to drill and tap a hole in the end of a piece of round stock, then Loctite in a piece of stud or the end of a bolt. At the other end you can simply Loctite a collar in place. That way you get the best of both worlds. It's how I did mine before I replaced them with a quick change system.
|Thread: Pinion problem SOLVED and a Rant|
I've used these boys before - another option in the future.
|Thread: Pumping water up a hill|
If people / wheelchairs / vehicles are presumably making the journey up and down the hill, perhaps you could use the descending traffic to pull loads up in the other direction or to operate a pump. As that energy is currently going to waste, it would come at little or no cost. Same principle used in a funicular railway but ideally much simpler / cruder.
Whatever you do won't be simple but the energy source is surely critical to it.
|Thread: Stepper power for autofeed on lathe|
Most of the hobby people just go on the basis of what others have found to work. The reason being that it's not easy to measure or estimate the required torque and speed extremes. And even then, to describe a stepper as "1.8Nm" is often unhelpful. I doubt if many of them could actually muster that level of torque to begin with - and it falls off very rapidly with speed.
You'll notice that the Chinese outfit you used also sell clones of the Leadshine "integrated easy servo" stepper motors. These combine the stepper driver module into the motor, along with an encoder on the motor shaft. This requires a lot less messing about to connect up the driver (just provide the step/dir signals and DC power) and being closed loop, it won't suffer from lost steps and can recover from a temporary overload. That's many of the advantages of a true servo with the cost of a stepper - and no external amp / driver, cleaner wiring etc. That additional level of control robustness means you don't need such a large margin of safety on the torque to guard against loss of position.
Incidentally, as the torque from a stepper motor drops off roughly proportional to speed, there is usually no advantage in creating a step-down reduction by using gears or pulleys. The effect of such a reduction is to make the motor run at twice the speed - and about half the torque. The net result is simply a reduction in the maximum speed of the output shaft, which is a problem for stepper motors to begin with. You are generally better off driving the leadscrews directly with steppers.
|Thread: 3 phase|
Yes, it's a complete and total non-issue. A good example of overthinking.
The house is one on phase already ie the definition of unbalanced. Any additional true, 3-phase loads could only improve the balance. But in the scheme of things, averaged out over thousands of houses, it's of no consequence whatsoever what happens in one installation.
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
Today I thought I'd finally get around to reading the recent copies of MEW Digital that I didn't have the time to browse previously. However it seems that my opportunity to view the content ended with the subscription about a month ago. In other words, the last 3 or so issues came and went unseen.
I may be wrong in which case I'd love to hear so. Otherwise it seems the subscription doesn't "give" you the content, it only allows you temporary visibility. In the case of the final issue, presumably you have about a month to read it. From what I recall, downloading a PDF copy is a tedious PITA but again, I may be wrong.
Have I got the right end of the stick? Can I still access the editions that came out when I was subscribed?
|Thread: Convertor Issues 240V 1 phase to 415V Three Phase|
Dear god, what a carry on. You should just connect the VFD directly to the motor and stop buggering about with this daft talk of soft starters. Why ask for advice and then just ignore it?
Seems you actually paid £2k for a VFD, so please let us know how much you end up paying for a pointless soft starter. 3 or 4 figures?
|Thread: Mach3 mystery error|
I've looked at it but not used it. But I know someone who does and he's very happy with it on a large Shizuoka knee mill like mine. I've used some of their servo drives and am pretty happy with both the hardware and the associated config software. I'd certainly be very tempted myself.
|Thread: Needle thrust bearings|
Think again John. **LINK**
|Thread: Hello and Bridgeport Mill advice needed|
Yes, you are doing well to have the gib strip so tight the knee won't fall under gravity. You've got the weight of the table, saddle and knee bearing down on it.
Are you sure the knee gib locks aren't tightened? You should find the gib adjuster easier to loosen if you are lowering the knee, especially if it is only held up by the gib itself.
It must be a bugger to raise the knee now, as presumably it appears to be twice as heavy as normal....
|Thread: Cleaning with Parafin?|
Not obvious what the difference is between paraffin and kerosene. Certainly, Wikipedia doesn't seem to think there is much of one. Kerosene / paraffin are cheaper than diesel because the are not subject to fuel duty, which is almost 50% of the pump price. No point paying fuel duty for parts cleaning.
From what I can tell, Gunk degreasant is just a mixture of light petroleum distillate and a detergent. You could make your own from white spirit, paraffin, diesel etc if you could be bothered. When I use Gunk, I rinse the parts in stinking hot water. That way, any minor residual moisture evaporates from the hot parts.
|Thread: Warco VMC worklight|
Yes, it's funny how they were allowed to describe them as "energy saving", when in fact their consumption is about 3/4 of a std incandescent bulb. I got sick of changing them and they were so damned expensive. Now the LED ones produce the same output for about 1/6 of the power and last a lot longer.
|Thread: new toy tormach 1100|
I hope you got one of the good ones. It seems that their quality has "taken a turn in the road" recently.
Here's one guy's story:
|Thread: Engineering Workshop Practice books|
I didn't know about Oxfam Online. They seem to have quite a collection of second hand books and aren't fools when it comes to valuation. Currently they have a 2nd edition of Snelling's "Soft Ferrites" which is correctly priced at £250. I have a copy I bought for £25 but most sellers are wise to the current value.
Must bear them in mind next time I'm looking.
|Thread: Maplin Electronics Stores|
Well at least you won't have to fight off the brainless staff to make a purchase any more. And presumably less of the "boutique" content - going up against highstreet showrooms like Currys etc probably wasn't a brilliant idea.
Don't forget if you are happy to buy stuff online, CPC have set the bar for cost and range. Much of their stuff is the same as their sister company (Farnell) but often at lower prices. However, they stock stuff Farnell doesn't keep and vice versa.
|Thread: Twin Tube HF fluorescent lighting for the workshop|
If your HF ballasts screw up your radio it suggests you should have bought them from a more reputable outlet. It's illegal to sell stuff that doesn't meet the EMC requirements (look at EN55011). Are you using Chinesium crap?
You will also note that despite what you say, the colour temperature is usually specified for fluorescent tubes.
And as mentioned on various previous occasions, LED lights are generally about the same as fluorescent lights in terms of efficiency.
The of the key benefits of HF ballasts is that they turn on almost instantaneously and can coax a little more life out of the tubes before they give up the ghost. As a tube gets older, the voltage rises until it can't be kept running.
For me, one key benefit of LED lights in the workshop is the lack of glass tubes above head height. Belting one of those or dropping one when changing it on top of a ladder could be pretty messy.
Some HF ballasts (and many LED drivers) have very little inherent energy storage, so although it's true that they switch at several kHz, they often have a significant 100Hz component.
|Thread: Another workshop insulation question|
Ah, sounds as if they installed a GPIB cable instead of a mains supply. That would explain the fire. Was it ever described as IEE488??
If the neutral and ground were NOT connected together, I'd be very worried. The neutral would be able to float anywhere between ground and 240Vac which wouldn't be fun. Whether the neutral is connected to ground back at the substation or at the premises shouldn't matter a damn. Various schemes are allowed.
Edited By Muzzer on 09/10/2018 18:44:16
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