|Thread: How to strip a Centec 2A Vertical Milling Head|
Posted by Simon Williams 3 on 19/05/2020 22:43:02
That snugging nut is a left hand thread - so I agree you are turning it correclty to push against the end of the quill, but is it moving? Can you turn that backing nut with your black spanner in the opposite direction at all?
That really looks like it should let go.
You need to move the snugging nut away from the end of the quill to create a space into which you can get a couple of slotted taper wedges between the back of the chuck and the end of the quill.
Gents, I'm struggling to get a handle on this, so to speak.
As several people have mentioned, that ring with the C spanner holes is on a Left Hand thread.
As such, in order to make it bear against the end of the spindle, the nut must be rotated Anticlockwise, as viewed from the cutter end of the chuck.
Please see the photo below for the correct placement, and turning direction, of the C spanner ( though a better spanner would clearly be advisable ).
I know this is the correct orientation, as I've just used it to release the chuck from the lathe spindle, as per the photo below.
Yes I know it's the wrong C spanner and everything needs a clean, but this was a quick setup on the Warco 720 for illustration purposes.
I set it in the lathe rather than the mill so the spanner stayed in place whilst I took the photo.
I'd suggest that there is only a very small gap between the collar and the spindle end in Avon's case, so there might not be enough space for wedges.
Assuming the nut isn't now jammed on the chuck, through turning in the wrong direction, pre-load the nut hard (with a small hammer) against the spindle end and then try clouting the remaining end of the drawbar with a decent sized hammer.
Perhaps protecting the drawbar's end with a lump of copper or brass might be a good idea (and it would also protect the screw thread on the spindle's end if anything moves.
N.B. even just fitting the chuck to the lathe spindle with just a reasonable rap, it took quite a bit of force on the spanner to remove the chuck in the photo shown above, as the morse taper locked quite well.
I'd suggest that using the nut alone won't be enough axial force to eject the chuck, but the preload might be enough when used with a hammer on the drawbar.
Edited By peak4 on 20/05/2020 11:47:28
|Thread: Clarkson Auto lock - 3 ish questions!!|
Posted by Clive Brown 1 on 19/05/2020 11:41:52
The collets with crescents look similar to the collets from my Osborne Titanic chuck.
Agreed, I'll go along with that.
Clarkson C type, two drive dogs
Clarkson S type two flats
Titanic half round drive dog.
|Thread: How to strip a Centec 2A Vertical Milling Head|
Avon, the drawbar is certainly not captive in that part of the spindle, thou it is when everything is assembled correctly.
The collar fits under the top cap, above the spring.
When tightened, the collar clamps the morse tapered item in the spindle, and when turned anticlockwise, the collar bears on the cap nut to eject the cutter/holder.
Drawbar, spring top nut and adjustable angle grinder spanner.
Just had mine apart today to make a new spacer to go between the two top bearings.
I had about 29 thou rise and fall on the top bevel gear, so so too much angular backlash on the spindle; I made a spacer +0.025" longer than the old one.
Hopefully that will leave enough clearance between the gears for some oil.
|Thread: garden chair, wooden slats broken.|
I guess it's a bit of a cost/benefit thing, particularly at the moment when getting out for supplies might be awkward.
Try typing Hardwood Slats into ebay, where you will find options in both Iroko and Sapele.
Disadvantage might be cost and not being able to examine the wood pre-purchase, but advantage is that they're already fully machined.
I found Toolstation cheapest for stainless coachscrews, washers and nuts; I'm sure you appreciate not to assemble stainless nuts and bolts dry.
|Thread: Used Lathe Pinnacle PL1340C Gap Bed|
Posted by Robert Laurenson on 14/05/2020 17:44:27
Apologies, it was a moment of madness, what i have is a "Split Phase" supply, or single phase 3 wire, basically 2x single phase supplies, so not 3 phase
Not sure why i would've typed that, anyway.
I may have found a phase converter locally, just had a message after putting out a wanted ad.
If you have a two phase supply, it's possible to generate the third phase via a transformer arrangement.
I have two friends who use this for their workshops, and at least one of them has a dual speed motor on their lathe.
The load needs balancing to a degree, as it's possible for one of the meters to run backwards it it's an older non digital one. Not free electric though as the other meter speeds up to compensate, but it might cause problems with the billing.
If it's of interest, drop me a message containing a normal email address and I'll see if I can find the arrangement from my friend(s)
I'm very glad to see you posting again; I was getting a bit concerned for your well being, with your profession and the current pandemic.
You might have persuaded me to dig my camera out now.
I've taken very few photos of late, as I've not been able to get out to view the wildlife, just a few of machining setups etc.
I'll dig out the macro lens and have a ponder when I've finished re-assembling the car.
|Thread: Magnifying Glasses|
In some ways that's better than my reasonable quality Russian ones, where they focus just beyond arms length.
OK when using fool long pliers I guess, but not much use for working on PCBs.
I ended up buying an old binocular dissecting microscope for that.
|Thread: Sharpening Files|
See also this thread on the subject on this forum.
|Thread: Cheese grater strip/band|
Ian, see P24 of this pdf
UK contact details HERE
Good luck, hope you're keeping well over there
|Thread: A Big Thank You to all Forum Members|
Posted by Mike Poole on 04/05/2020 23:12:42
All in all this is a pleasant place to visit and thank you to our moderators and contributors for making it so.
I notice that IanSC has gone absent again which is rather worrying after he explained his last absence, let’s hope he can beat whatever has caused this one.
I was wondering how Raphael is getting on as well, having read his last post, the best part of a month ago.
|Thread: MEW Special edition 2008 Cherry interview|
This item on ebay may be of interest
|Thread: Clarkson autolock help|
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 30/04/2020 22:08:11
I've played with one of the old C-type chucks, as I ground a new centre for the owner, but never used one in anger. All my Clarkson chucks are the later S-type. I've never had a problem with the nut sticking, even on the larger ones I use on the horizontal mill.
For various reasons I have both C & S types , as well as a Titanic, and something else quite obscure of which I can't remember the name.
Of the three, I always seem to go for the C type unless it's in use on the other mill.
Possibly because it's the first one I acquired.
It does have the advantage, that used with care, it will hold plain shank cutters, as the closing sleeve is separate to the collet.
I've never found any instructions for the "C" type; can anyone assist please?
|Thread: Maurice Worthington RIP|
I've just come across this report in our local paper.
I never knew the chap, but mentioning it here in case others did.
Seems a likeable and talented engineer.
|Thread: Eunicell SR44 ... These are very cheap, but are they any good ?|
I tend to stock up on button cells when Lidl have them on seasonal special offer.
They seem to work well enough, and certainly better than the Poundland type cheapo ones.
|Thread: How difficult is it to subscribe to MEW?|
Just tried it, and it seems to work, up to the point of final ordering, which I didn't do, as I already subscribe
For normal subs and back issues, log onto the forum and look at the top black bar, where there are links for subscribe and back issues.
|Thread: Shoe repair glue advice?|
So far, the best I've found is an American product, Shoe Goo, available in black or clear.
There's a supposed EU equivalent available from some skateboard shops, but it really doesn't work as well.
I actually use it for building up worn patches on the soles of my favourite shoes, before they wear through completely, also US made but no longer available (Teva Oraibi).
Last time I looked Repair Products were about the cheapest, with a pretty quick service, though that pre-dated the present issues.
|Thread: Selecting an Engineer's level|
If you still decide to purchase one, good brand name ones are often available on ebay for less than £30; e.g. Starrett, M&W, Rabone etc.
|Thread: What are these for|
Posted by not done it yet on 06/04/2020 11:23:32
My first thought, but the bolt cannot push and pull at the same time? Because BB has not said there are any movable parts at the bottom end have to assume they simply fit in a slot of some description. Parts for some form of jig?]..............................
Edited By not done it yet on 06/04/2020 11:25:42
Wouldn't it work if the "toolpost" was poking through a thick washer to set the centre height of the tip; so long as the washer is thick enough to raise the bottom of the tool above the oval bottom of the hole of course.
The pair on the right look like lantern toolholders.
Would they slide into a T slot in the topslide?
The square headed screw would lighten down on the toll and lock both tool and holder.
|Thread: New Mill|
Paraffin stove maybe?