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Member postings for peak4

Here is a list of all the postings peak4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Evaluating & Correcting Wear in an ML7
30/10/2020 17:59:15
Posted by Dr_GMJN on 30/10/2020 15:34:47:



I couldn't get any information from the Garside website or Facebook page, but gave them a call. I am sending some photographs and my measurement data by email, and they said they'd get a price for me.


Not Garside's Facebook page, the link I posted in the last post on P2 of this thread, which was to the Myford Facebook Group. It was a general posting, but didn't include a Myford price.
You need to join the group to be able to read posts on there.



Edited By peak4 on 30/10/2020 18:01:33

30/10/2020 14:30:03

If you want to practice scraping, rather than doing it on the back of the bed, perhaps try on a length of spare continuous cast iron bar.
That was the first thing I made on the way to re-scraping my grinder, and used it both on the flats and the dovetails.
In my case I didn't use continuous cast, but took a slice of a cast iron bus bar fishplate clamp.

Strikes me that there are two advantages there,
one you aren't changing the lathe,
and two, when you are happy enough with your technique, you will then have a straight and flat straight edge to use on other jobs.

I wonder if your front shear is more worn than usual is it was because a previous owner primarily used the lathe for boring work, where the forces were in the opposite direction to external turning.

Re. bed grinding, I gather you followed by link to Garside's machinery moving web site, but were you able to access the Facebook link.
The latter has a photo of them grinding Myford beds, and a discussion of pricing for larger work.


28/10/2020 23:33:18
Posted by Dr_GMJN on 28/10/2020 23:09:52

Hmmm tape. This is very similar to the method in Hopper's M.E. Articles, but of course he uses pinned steel instead of tape. The leadscrew would be aquestion mark. I think Hopper suggests machining the brackets back.

Is it worth a try? Probably. £50/metre



Er, no not £50/m £3.17 +VAT & post for 20mm tape with a sticky back.
Turcite and similar products are rather more expensive.
I bought a metre of tape 100mm wide and cut a slice off, hence having some spare. That was £21 delivered in a couple of days from ordering.
I ordered the wide stuff as I wasn't sure if I need to build up the flat surfaces on the knee of my machine, but got away with just scraping it flat.
It needs a very thorough de-greasing of the cast iron for obvious reasons.
It might not be a permanent solution, but just an exploration of the method.

Also companies like Starrett make feeler strip in 12" lengths; I used some 25thou, but you might be able to get it thicker. Modern adhesives can be quite good.
My thoughts are that arranging for minimum clearance on the short sliding interface will obviate the need for major re-work on the leadscrew etc. At least in the short term anyway, whilst just exploring the suitability of the preferred final method.


Edited By peak4 on 28/10/2020 23:34:13

28/10/2020 22:43:03
Posted by Dr_GMJN on 28/10/2020 22:30:04:

Just for information, I removed the saddle gib strip, but some felt tip ink over the face and put it on the surface plate. it is worn at the ends (ink removed from the middle area when I moved it around). In fact, I could rock it slightly, like a see-saw, on the surface plate.

That's probably not surprising if the saddle has been rocking.
I had to scrape one back to flat on the grinder I was re-assembling.
Are you sure it's actually worn at the ends, rather than being bowed?
If the latter, the adjusting screws will probably straighten it up a wee bit.


28/10/2020 22:38:31

Just a thought, If you've got a 22 thou gap at the back, then that's just less than a layer of the Tribo Tape I mentioned. (0.71mm)
It should move the saddle back just enough for the short part to clear the front shear by about 5 thou (ish), so effectively you might be able to try a wide bed conversion without needing to alter anything at all.
I think mine is a bit less than 22 thou.
A few thou shouldn't really affect the leadscrew, since it's probably already worn a bit.

I'll be over in Sheffield Monday, so could possibly drop off a suitable length
(I'm going to NGH, depending what sort of Dr your user name implies)


Thread: Parcelforce or DPD
28/10/2020 21:47:01

I can only speak as a recipient for the most part.
DPD, Parcelforce and Royal Mail in no particular order, though if I had to express a preference it would likely be for the latter as delivery times tend to be the same time on each occasion; DPD's tracing is narrower in delivery window, but it can be at any time of day.
The tracking works fine for me and estimated delivery times seem to be about right.

Yodel are a nightmare and Hermes can be.
Hermes particularly seems to depend on how seriously the local courier takes their job.
In Buxton our local Hermes courier is excellent, but I'm always concerned about their distribution network, based on past experience. (I appreciate you're not asking about Hermes, but just mentioning this for the benefit of others.)

Before you commit either way, I probably don't need to mention this to you, but again it might be of value to other readers; be very careful of parcel contents exclusions. Some of the couriers will happily carry your goods, but if you need to claim off them they will obviously need proof of cost of contents.
I've read numerous reports of one particular courier, who regularly lose parcels, and when the sender puts in a claim, they manage to interpret the description into one of their excluded items and thus refuse to pay out.

Also from your point of view, much of the perceived reliability will be down to the receiver's individual delivery courier.
Not a problem now we live in Buxton, but when we lived in Sheffield, I essentially refused to do business with any company which used Hermes or Yodel, as well as a couple of others (DPD was one, though they did improve).

I don't know how much it would inconvenience your business, but would it be possible to give customer's an alternative courier option, maybe at greater expense to be covered by the customer, if they know some of their local delivery staff are unreliable.


Edited By peak4 on 28/10/2020 21:48:01

Thread: Evaluating & Correcting Wear in an ML7
28/10/2020 21:14:45

When the saddle is in place, with the short face in contact with the back of the front shear, how much clearance do you have between the unworn back of the rear shear, and the unworn rear vertical of the saddle top?

If it's not much, you could try an experiment with either ground stock, or a long feeler gauge, or maybe a length of Tribo Tape, which is what I used to pack out a gib strip 's bearing surface on the knee of my grinder. (I used the B160, which claims to be 0.71mm if you buy it with the self adhesive tape.

Different circumstances I agree; in my case it was a tapered gib, which I re-scraped after bonding a 0.030" feeler gauge to one side of it. I then made up the difference that I'd scraped off with a length of Tribo Tape on the main casting.
Might be worth it as an experiment, before committing to machining the top of the saddle.

This is the plan for my S7, but I've not got around to it yet, I'm hoping that adding the tape to the back of the saddle will give just enough clearance for the short front face.


28/10/2020 13:45:15
Posted by Dr_GMJN on 28/10/2020 13:14:09:

Just thinking - at the end of the day, how much is a re-grind? I'm in Sheffield; does anyone know of anywhere local to me that might do it? I've stripped the head/gearbox/leadscrew off before and it's not a big job. Presumably once its ground you just plonk everything back on it and re-adjust the gibs, levelling and tailstock?

I'll re-check using different methods later, but I'm not sure I understand the Myford wear limits. If they're saying that 0.002" on width doesn't need a re-grind, how come I can't adjust the gib to get a decent action for more than about 1/2 - 2/3 the bed length? Surely that limit implies that there might be slight variation in feel, rather than it locking up?

Something's not right here.

I hadn't realised you were that close. I recently moved from Crookes to Buxton when I retired from BT.
If you're ever over our way, drop in for a brew when we are allowed to socialise again.

Re. lathe bed re-grinding; I came across this firm a while ago, On Facebook, but in the private Myford Group rather than on their own page; I've never used them myself, nor do I know the cost.
James Garside & Son, Their website only refers to them being machinery movers, but I'm almost certain that they were the ones who posted about regrinding Myford beds.
Large machinery, I seem to recall they had three or four set up to machine at the same time.


Edited By peak4 on 28/10/2020 13:46:20

Thread: First workbench, for an ML7 lathe
27/10/2020 12:01:02

If you're going to build something and cap it with kitchen worktop, I'd consider granite worktop (or maybe quartzite etc)
It comes in various thicknesses, so I'd go with one of the more substantial slabs; just keep reviewing your local free ads, Gumtree, ebay etc. for someone refurbishing a kitchen.
I've sliced it up myself using a conventional 7 ¼" circular saw, but with the blade replaced with a diamond cutting disk from an angle grinder. The hole size is different, but alternative clamping washers can be made to suit. I coupled up an old Aquavac to my saw as a dust extractor.

Drilling is best done with the diamond coated bits, rather than trying, and blunting conventional masonry bits.
I used a normal hand electric drill in a bench stand, but with the column reversed on the base.

In my case it wasn't for a lathe, but for the sink/splashback etc in the corner of my new workshop, though the intention is to obtain another slice for under the quorn.


Thread: Adjustable angle plate
26/10/2020 22:09:22
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 26/10/2020 21:24:43:
Posted by peak4 on 26/10/2020 20:13:58:

It might be worth contacting The Sheffield Tooling Company

That is interesting. Their tables look just like mine in many of the details:



I put up links for their shop as well as ebay.
As an example, a similar table/plate to yours, but smaller, is in the shop @ £187, whereas the same item on ebay is also £187 or make an offer, inc delivery.
When you take ebay and paypal fees into account, it may be that the actual cost, via a direct phone call, is lower than immediately obvious.

I've never used them in under their new ownership, but often used Riley's when I lived in Sheffield.


Edited By peak4 on 26/10/2020 22:12:28

26/10/2020 20:13:58

It might be worth contacting The Sheffield Tooling Company; used to be Riley's when under previous management

They also have an ebay shop with different stuff listed, along with many products which aren't on the web at all.


Thread: Straight edge for checking the slide ways on my mill's knee
25/10/2020 23:37:49
Posted by Mark Davison 1 on 25/10/2020 23:05:33:

............... I don't want to go anywhere near the top surface of the knee and certainly not the v! I'm not feeling that brave at the moment.

Edited By Mark Davison 1 on 25/10/2020 23:05:50

I can understand why, particularly if your mill is essentially usable.
In my case, the grinder was £250 delivered, and despite initial optimism was largely unusable.
I'd never scraped anything in my life before, and wasted quite a bit of time just finding a suitable grade of carbide to make a scraper from. I couldn't justify the price of a proper Sandvik insert, or so I thought at the time; it probably would have been worth it with hindsight.
I bought a box of these, which seemed to be strong enough, and also held an edge quite well, though I've nothing commercial to compare it to.

I made a clamp holder to use them end on, as you saw on Flickr. I also cut one in half and silver soldered it to a length of bar for a wider scraper. Sharpening & honing are obvious from the album.

If I can do it from scratch, so can anyone else, though I do wonder if I've made some areas too flat and not left deep enough depressions to act as oil reservoirs.


25/10/2020 21:17:53

Posted by peak4 on 25/10/2020 19:51:46
Without wishing to continuously direct people away from this fine forum, I've an album over on Flickr showing the various setups I used when fettling the various straight and V ways during the rather amateurish refurbishment of a Herbert grinder during the first covid lockdown.

Sorry, the link to Flickr on the original post was wrong, I thought I'd checked it.


25/10/2020 19:51:46

An 8"x12" surface plate would enable you to blue and scrape something longer if you do it across the diagonal.
Maybe one long edge of one of the various lattice style cast iron spirit levels. Here's an ebay example, though I'm not particularly suggesting this one. Perhaps a trip to a local scrapyard will show up a length of something cast Iron, from which you can cut, and machine a slice, before you strip the mill.

Without wishing to continuously direct people away from this fine forum, I've an album over on Flickr showing the various setups I used when fettling the various straight and V ways during the rather amateurish refurbishment of a Herbert grinder during the first covid lockdown.
I've not reproduced the album on here as there's the best part of 150 photos to resize, upload and caption.
Doing it on Flickr and also Facebook took me long enough as it was.

It may not be the textbook way of doing things, but I used what I had at the time, and some of the more inventive setups might give you some ideas to develop further, and better, to suit your own needs and available equipment.


Thread: adjustable motor mounts
25/10/2020 01:10:50

From your photos, you appear to have a lathe, so rather than making T nuts, why not make T bolts.

A bit of square bar, to suite the size of the internals of the channel, turned down to appropriate diameter and threaded at the end.


Thread: Broken Verdict DTI
24/10/2020 21:50:32

Bill, when I was looking for something a while ago, I found their web site a bit of a labyrinth with various versions of catalogues around.

Try This Link to a pdf, pages 3 & 9 if that's not the one you've already found.


Thread: Medical needles
24/10/2020 13:56:17

I use them in the workshop for various purposes, air and oil amongst them, both sharp and blunt. I think I'd probably just sterilise them and keep in a box safe somewhere until you find a need.

I also keep new sterile ones in first aid kits etc. as they work well as tiny scalpels for removing splinters and swarf from finger ends.


Thread: Diamond Drills
24/10/2020 13:14:41

Sparky, Sorry if this is a long post, when you've only asked where to buy diamond bits.

Like you, I've struggled with exactly this in the past, and had poor success even with reasonable diamond drills and burrs.
Obviously the problem with the latter is skidding and damaging the trim, and the former just don't seem to have enough diamond in contact with the offending screw head.

Two things spring to mind here, depending on how damaged the screws are;

I assume Philips or Posidrive heads, where a normal screwdriver cams out and damages the slots.
It's possible to get diamond dust coated driver bits, to fit the normal driver/socket set handles.
These allow the diamond dust on the bit to bite into the screw head and help stop it camming out. It may well provide enough grip such that you can shear off the heads. I think they are also available for plain straight drivers as well, but never looked for them.

As other posters have mentioned there are Tungsten carbide bits available which look a bit like masonry bits, but are of a grade and geometry which allows one to drill even high speed steel. I use them for drilling holes in machine hacksaw blades to shorten them for my 9" Rapidor Minor. These generate quite a lot of heat and I suspect will cause damage to both the chrome strip and the underlying fibreglass, as well as bursting through unexpectedly; they need a lot of pressure to work effectively.

I've recently been drilling some conventional hand hacksaw blades with smaller holes, and for that used a high speed bench drill (10,000rpm) with solid tungsten carbide PCB drills, which come on a 3mm shaft. This worked fine without damaging either the drills or the blades. The drills are easily and cheaply available off ebay or similar.

Do you have a woodworking router or a die grinder (electric or air)? ( a Dremmel or Proxxon would do at a pinch, but ideally with the little drill/router attachment.
Either of these should give sufficient speed to run these solid carbide drills.
You might need to make a new collet to take the smaller drills, as normal small cutters/stones are either 6mm or ¼"; I've made a replacement 3mm collet for mine.

I think I'd use my plunge router with a sacrificial wooden base, carrying a groove to fit the trim. This would locate everything and help prevent skidding.
I'd try with the diamond coated screwdriver bits first, they might just remove the screws OK, but if not, should be hard enough to properly round off the inside of the heads to form a nice countersink to locate the carbide s drill bit.
Any of the four internal corners remaining will chip the carbide bits.

Good luck


Edited By peak4 on 24/10/2020 13:18:09

Thread: Tap/Die sets - BSW/BSF or UNC/UNF?
23/10/2020 20:21:57
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 23/10/2020 15:42:03:
Posted by William Ayerst on 23/10/2020 14:55:36:

So, my only thought was that the Myford doesn't have a screwcutting gearbox and a 8TPI lead screw, so I can only 'natively' cut 24/32/40 TPI threads so I figured it would make sense to stick with those kind of imperial threads - i..e I can screw-cut ME/BSF/UNF but can't cut BA or Metric threads as features on parts.

When the lathe turns up have a look at the change gears it comes with. If there's a 127 or 63 toothed gear, it will cut metric threads. It's also possible to cut some metric threads, or their close approximations, with imperial gears. Ask again when you know what the lathe actually has.

And welcome to the forum!


Pretty much with Dave on this one, which is hardly surprising as I suspect he's more experienced in many aspects than me.
The only reason I'm echoing his sentiments is to emphasise that the lack of gearbox isn't a limiting factor at all.
Having one just makes swapping between different imperial pitches faster.
In some ways it can work against you if you want to cut Metric, BA (which is bases on metric), or something weird.

Hopefully your new lathe will come with a full set of changewheels, which will allow you to cut pretty much anything you will need.
Strictly speaking a 127 tooth would be needed for a perfect thread match in metric, but other combinations are close enough for almost all our purposes. (I'll stand to be corrected, but I don't think Myford ever supplied a 127 as standard.)
Not advising which thread forms to pick though, as I'm not a modeller; more a tinkerer with older vehicles, and repairer of whatever I've just broken.
Hence I regularly use BSW, BSF, UNC, UNF, BA, Cycle, BSP, Metric (coarse, fine, superfine and weird), as well as using a couple of ME threads to re-work things built by other folk.


Thread: Dressing a diamond wheel
23/10/2020 17:22:54
Posted by D.A.Godley on 23/10/2020 17:06:06:
Posted by Oily Rag on 15/10/2020 15:37:32:

For cleaning the diamond wheel - try a school rubber (for our North American cousins I should quickly point out, before you get the wrong ideas about the state of the 'edukshun' system in the UK, that this is an 'eraser' in your terminology )

Oily Rag ,

Many thanks for your tip as above , I had been asking about cleaning the wheel for a while now , but had not heard of this solution , which worked perfectly,



I use one of these from Axminster, though other suppliers are of course available.

Sadly they are now a lot smaller than when I first bought one, a but like Wagon Wheels.



Edited By peak4 on 23/10/2020 17:23:09

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