Here is a list of all the postings peak4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Snapping taps|
Here You Go, alternatively try your local Indian/Asian supermarket for Fatakdi powder.
|Thread: Material source needed|
If you have a military surplus dealer round your way, try sections of tank/Landrover radio aerials; they are made of painted, copper plated, spring steel tubing, rather than chromed brass.
Edited By peak4 on 02/04/2016 00:51:25
|Thread: Grinding wheel ..balancing hole?|
I'm most certainly no expert on this, never having been formally trained as an engineer, (other than with telephone exchanges).
Here's a guess for you; From what I understand, wheels on a surface grinder normally have an oversized hole compared to the spindle size, such that they can be fitted to an arbour and balanced via adjustable weights.
On the other hand, wheels fitted to a small, simple, cheap, double ended bench grinder have holes the same size as the spindle to give a snug fit, and are often lead lined to further help the snug fit.
As such the balance (as opposed to side to side wobble) can't be adjusted, so perhaps it is done at the factory where the wheels are made. One method of this would be to remove a small amount of the material, as per these dimples; perhaps they are not moulded in, but are cut in, to balance the wheel. This would concur with the video that John posted earlier.
Did anyone look up the video that John mentioned?
Here's the link to make it a bit easier.
I've no experience of the validity of the method personally.
|Thread: Ferrite rings|
It is indeed, but not a trials car. This one's a Berlinetta, built by the previous owner from a Mk3 Cortina; 2l Pinto with a 5 speed type 9 box.
He did make a decent job of the build,as his day jow was something to do with building limos for Jaguar Daimler.
I just wish he'd discovered rivnuts though. As I work on bits, I'm gradually replacing loose nuts with captive ones.
My other Avatar's a Lightwight Landrover. (V8 auto)
|Thread: Long-term battery charging|
I did that once, well several times really on different batteries, both power tools and portable 2 way radios.
On one memorable occasion, I replaced a cell in a Skil drill pack with a new cell from somewhere and all worked fine for a while.
One day I put it on rapid, rather than trickle charge, still with the standard charger; it had two settings.
Some time later, there was a serious bang; the new cell hadn't liked the rapid charge, even though I'd checked the spec before purchase. I assume the vent was blocked.
The cell exploded, with the spiral wound interior expanding a bit like Zeberdee's spring. This blew the next cell in the stack clean through the plastic battery case, finally leaving a dent in the bedroom ceiling.
Edited By peak4 on 19/03/2016 13:53:42
|Thread: Ferrite rings|
Many Thanks folks, I'll give it another go.
Thanks Chris, I already did that and have a working one now, but I'm trying to get my old one up and running too.
It's the later model with a dwell meter as well, but I've been keeping an eye out for a cheap one of either style as I assume the ferrites will be the same.
I don't really want to spend a load of dosh on another working one, as I'll still have the current one awaiting repair. Shades of Groundhog day.
Unfortunately, unless I'm missing them, they only list 2 U ferrites, which are far too big, but thanks anyway.
Edited By peak4 on 18/03/2016 13:35:00
I know Google or similar should be my friend here, but struggling to find the right item.
I have a Gunson Superstrobe timing light for the car, but the ferrite ring on the HT pickup is cracked, so obviously doesn't work any more.
It's a square U shape and square cross section, as per the attached photos.
There is a sliding cover with a bar ferrite encapsulated to complete the magnetic circuit, and a coil round one leg of the U. I did try using a slice out of a round ferrite ring, but can't get it to work.
Anyone any thoughts for a supplier please?
I did contact Gunson, who put me in touch with their spares supplier, who in turn would only quote for a full replacement lead; Can't remember the exact price, but it was north of £50.
The U shape is dimensioned as follows;
i.e. approx 6mm x section, 16.5mm high, & 25mm wide
Edited By peak4 on 18/03/2016 12:44:03
|Thread: Slit Saw for small mill|
May sound daft, but for cutting ally bar, I do sometimes use a hand hacksaw, to supplement my Manchester Rapidor.
The difference is, that rather than using a normal 12" hacksaw blade in it, I use a 12" length of bandsaw blade; holes drilled in the end with a centre drill.
Much coarser teeth and a thinner blade makes the job a lot quicker than a conventional hacksaw blade.
|Thread: Nice V Mill on the bay.|
No it didn't, Try THIS LINK
|Thread: Starrett hook rule|
Not Starret, but a couple of suggestions for you
|Thread: Long-term battery charging|
I know folks who use Optimate chargers for their motorbike batteries and highly recommend them.
I just picked up a couple from Lidl, (though Aldi also have a similar one sometimes) which so a similar job for a fraction of the price.
They seem to do the business for me and go under the name of Ultimate Speed Car battery Charger ULGD 3.8A1
Several different programs depending on the battery type
uTube link HERE, but there's several others on the net
Edited By peak4 on 12/03/2016 13:36:24
|Thread: Best place for offcuts|
Thanks Ian, I'll add to your list with "AMB Stainless" for alloy bar, and surprisingly stainless too. (not scrap box stuff, but happy to cut short lengths to order for personal visitors.)
Ian, am I correct in thinking you're in the Sheffield area?
if so, would you mind PMing me which stockholder you use.
|Thread: Warco milling cutters & carbide tooling tips|
I'm guessing one of these **LINK**
The inner end of the collet does look different to my Clarkson ones, but the actual milling cutters look to be the standard, Clarkson type, threaded end cutters.
Looking at the price Warco charge for extra collets, I'd suggest that it might even be cheaper to buy new from them, rather than second hand off ebay if one had a Clarkson Autolock.
I actually made a metric set myself, as the Autolock chuck for the Centec only came with imperial collets.
|Thread: Tongue in cheek|
Well to chuck in my two-pennorth, and I'm old enough for that to be 1/120 Pond or half a groat.
I can remember phoning round the local timber merchants to price up some beech for the top of a woodworking bench I was about to build, only to be told " We sell it by the metric foot now sir" It eventually transpired that they priced timber in units of 300mm, but they "Could do it by the metre; which is a bit longer than a yard".
Re. good stuff from France, apart from the calvados and cheese, Michele Mouton for me, who rather excelled in the Audi Groups B rally cars, and even set a record time for Pikes Peak.
Edited By peak4 on 25/02/2016 00:38:25
|Thread: Ackworthie Tapping Head|
Thanks for that Emgee, That was what I assumed looking at the head. It would seem that the parallel hole in the body is a smaller diameter than the hole in the nut.
Not quite sure how long the parallel bit is in between the tapers though, and whether the tapers are straight or convex; I'm presuming straight.
Edited By peak4 on 21/02/2016 22:31:34
Edited By peak4 on 21/02/2016 22:36:47
Some time ago I picked up an Ackworthie Tapping Head, quite cheaply as it came without any collets; I think I gave a tenner for it.
Now I have a little more time, as I retired last year, I was going to knock some up, but have no idea what the originals looked like. I'm sure I can make something that works OK, As I've made a set of metric collets for my Clarkson milling chuck in the past, but I knew what I was trying to achieve, as I already had an imperial set.
I can't find any photos or diagrams on the net anywhere, other than this one for sale on ebay. **LINK** so at least you can see what type of head it is.
Does anyone have one the same and is able to show me either a photo or some measurements of an original collet.
Edited By peak4 on 21/02/2016 21:19:07
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