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Member postings for peak4

Here is a list of all the postings peak4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Snapping taps
02/04/2016 11:34:28
Posted by Michael Walters on 02/04/2016 11:09:18:
Posted by john duffus 1 on 02/04/2016 00:50:51:

I see lots here about how to use taps but as far as I can see nothing about removing taps that are broken in a job. Years ago in M.E. there was a mention in a letter that one should try ALUM. I was presented with a job with a broken 4BA HSS tap & submerged the offending part in a saturated solution of ALUM- bit of heat now & then & bingo- the tap more or less crumbled to a black dust after about 3 days. Give it time & a bit of heat- it works. The job was in mild steel & had no more than a grey finish on it. I was told by a chemist who used the same pub that there was likely something like a nickel-iron cell formed- if memory serves!

That sounds very interesting, John, i'd like to know where you could buy that if you don't mind me asking?

I've tapped a few holes since writing this and i'm pretty sure it was because the starter drill i was using was 0.1mm too small, doesnt sound much but makes a bit of a difference.

Michael W

Here You Go, alternatively try your local Indian/Asian supermarket for Fatakdi powder.

Thread: Material source needed
02/04/2016 00:49:36
Posted by bugbear6502 on 30/03/2016 13:42:51:

I was considering recycling the telescopic aerial from an old radio (chrome plated brass).


If you have a military surplus dealer round your way, try sections of tank/Landrover radio aerials; they are made of painted, copper plated, spring steel tubing, rather than chromed brass.

Edited By peak4 on 02/04/2016 00:51:25

Thread: Grinding wheel ..balancing hole?
23/03/2016 21:45:46
Posted by Watford on 23/03/2016 21:23:44

Holes of the size shown would seriously effect the balance, so either it was balanced by unusual means OR is out of balance now because of the holes.


Edited By Watford on 23/03/2016 21:25:25

I'm most certainly no expert on this, never having been formally trained as an engineer, (other than with telephone exchanges).

Here's a guess for you; From what I understand, wheels on a surface grinder normally have an oversized hole compared to the spindle size, such that they can be fitted to an arbour and balanced via adjustable weights.

On the other hand, wheels fitted to a small, simple, cheap, double ended bench grinder have holes the same size as the spindle to give a snug fit, and are often lead lined to further help the snug fit.

As such the balance (as opposed to side to side wobble) can't be adjusted, so perhaps it is done at the factory where the wheels are made. One method of this would be to remove a small amount of the material, as per these dimples; perhaps they are not moulded in, but are cut in, to balance the wheel. This would concur with the video that John posted earlier.

23/03/2016 20:39:34
Posted by John Pace on 23/03/2016 10:07:40:

Might be worth having a look at this video by Don Bailey
from Suburban tool in USA.

"How to dress and balance a surface grinding wheel"
In this 13 minute video the principle points of interest
are at 9 min 31 seconds and 10 min 34 sec .

There are many more interesting videos from Suburban
tool that are worth watching for people interested in grinding.


Did anyone look up the video that John mentioned?

Here's the link to make it a bit easier.

I've no experience of the validity of the method personally.

Thread: Ferrite rings
19/03/2016 13:59:23
Posted by Chris Evans 6 on 19/03/2016 09:28:48:

Bill is that a Marlin on your avatar ? In my car trial days they always did well on things like the MCC long distance trials. So much more comfort than a Dellow !

It is indeed, but not a trials car. This one's a Berlinetta, built by the previous owner from a Mk3 Cortina; 2l Pinto with a 5 speed type 9 box.

He did make a decent job of the build,as his day jow was something to do with building limos for Jaguar Daimler.

I just wish he'd discovered rivnuts though. As I work on bits, I'm gradually replacing loose nuts with captive ones.

My other Avatar's a Lightwight Landrover. (V8 auto)

Thread: Long-term battery charging
19/03/2016 13:52:49
Posted by john fletcher 1 on 19/03/2016 10:35:17:

Occasionally I taken the battery box apart and replaced a cell, from my spare collection.John

I did that once, well several times really on different batteries, both power tools and portable 2 way radios.

On one memorable occasion, I replaced a cell in a Skil drill pack with a new cell from somewhere and all worked fine for a while.

One day I put it on rapid, rather than trickle charge, still with the standard charger; it had two settings.

Some time later, there was a serious bang; the new cell hadn't liked the rapid charge, even though I'd checked the spec before purchase. I assume the vent was blocked.

The cell exploded, with the spiral wound interior expanding a bit like Zeberdee's spring. This blew the next cell in the stack clean through the plastic battery case, finally leaving a dent in the bedroom ceiling. blush

Edited By peak4 on 19/03/2016 13:53:42

Thread: Ferrite rings
18/03/2016 17:37:54

Many Thanks folks, I'll give it another go.

Much appreciated.


18/03/2016 13:34:41
Posted by Chris Evans 6 on 18/03/2016 13:26:12:

Not many of us use these now so keep an eye on the usual sites for someone selling a complete one.

Thanks Chris, I already did that and have a working one now, but I'm trying to get my old one up and running too.

It's the later model with a dwell meter as well, but I've been keeping an eye out for a cheap one of either style as I assume the ferrites will be the same.

I don't really want to spend a load of dosh on another working one, as I'll still have the current one awaiting repair. Shades of Groundhog day.

18/03/2016 13:31:13
Posted by Jon Gibbs on 18/03/2016 13:19:43:

You might have luck with RS here...


Good luck.


Unfortunately, unless I'm missing them, they only list 2 U ferrites, which are far too big, but thanks anyway.



Edited By peak4 on 18/03/2016 13:35:00

18/03/2016 12:43:13

I know Google or similar should be my friend here, but struggling to find the right item.

I have a Gunson Superstrobe timing light for the car, but the ferrite ring on the HT pickup is cracked, so obviously doesn't work any more.

It's a square U shape and square cross section, as per the attached photos.

There is a sliding cover with a bar ferrite encapsulated to complete the magnetic circuit, and a coil round one leg of the U. I did try using a slice out of a round ferrite ring, but can't get it to work.

Anyone any thoughts for a supplier please?

I did contact Gunson, who put me in touch with their spares supplier, who in turn would only quote for a full replacement lead; Can't remember the exact price, but it was north of £50. surprise

The U shape is dimensioned as follows;

i.e. approx 6mm x section, 16.5mm high, & 25mm wide



Edited By peak4 on 18/03/2016 12:44:03

Thread: Slit Saw for small mill
16/03/2016 20:52:15

May sound daft, but for cutting ally bar, I do sometimes use a hand hacksaw, to supplement my Manchester Rapidor.

The difference is, that rather than using a normal 12" hacksaw blade in it, I use a 12" length of bandsaw blade; holes drilled in the end with a centre drill.

Much coarser teeth and a thinner blade makes the job a lot quicker than a conventional hacksaw blade.

Thread: Nice V Mill on the bay.
16/03/2016 00:38:14
Posted by MalcB on 15/03/2016 23:29:41:

Hayes Diemaster.

Quality restoration project.

Don't know if the link works.

Edited By MalcB on 15/03/2016 23:31:54

No it didn't, Try THIS LINK

Thread: Starrett hook rule
14/03/2016 22:40:30

Not Starret, but a couple of suggestions for you




Good Luck

Thread: Long-term battery charging
12/03/2016 13:33:04

I know folks who use Optimate chargers for their motorbike batteries and highly recommend them.

I just picked up a couple from Lidl, (though Aldi also have a similar one sometimes) which so a similar job for a fraction of the price.

They seem to do the business for me and go under the name of Ultimate Speed Car battery Charger ULGD 3.8A1

Several different programs depending on the battery type

uTube link HERE, but there's several others on the net

Edited By peak4 on 12/03/2016 13:36:24

Thread: Best place for offcuts
09/03/2016 16:26:17
Posted by Ian Parkin on 09/03/2016 09:13:04:


I use wd steels for mild steels in bar and flat

I use phoenix steels for silversteel and GFS

Thanks Ian, I'll add to your list with "AMB Stainless" for alloy bar, and surprisingly stainless too. (not scrap box stuff, but happy to cut short lengths to order for personal visitors.)

09/03/2016 01:38:14
Posted by Ian Parkin on 08/03/2016 16:54:15:

Where are you?

My local steel stockholder has bins of ends

and very cheap

but not for posting

Ian, am I correct in thinking you're in the Sheffield area?

if so, would you mind PMing me which stockholder you use.



Thread: Warco milling cutters & carbide tooling tips
29/02/2016 11:25:09

I'm guessing one of these **LINK**

The inner end of the collet does look different to my Clarkson ones, but the actual milling cutters look to be the standard, Clarkson type, threaded end cutters.

Looking at the price Warco charge for extra collets, I'd suggest that it might even be cheaper to buy new from them, rather than second hand off ebay if one had a Clarkson Autolock.

I actually made a metric set myself, as the Autolock chuck for the Centec only came with imperial collets.

Thread: Tongue in cheek
25/02/2016 00:38:10

Well to chuck in my two-pennorth, and I'm old enough for that to be 1/120 Pond or half a groat.

I can remember phoning round the local timber merchants to price up some beech for the top of a woodworking bench I was about to build, only to be told " We sell it by the metric foot now sir" It eventually transpired that they priced timber in units of 300mm, but they "Could do it by the metre; which is a bit longer than a yard".


Re. good stuff from France, apart from the calvados and cheese, Michele Mouton for me, who rather excelled in the Audi Groups B rally cars, and even set a record time for Pikes Peak.

Edited By peak4 on 25/02/2016 00:38:25

Thread: Ackworthie Tapping Head
21/02/2016 22:28:25

Thanks for that Emgee, That was what I assumed looking at the head. It would seem that the parallel hole in the body is a smaller diameter than the hole in the nut.

Not quite sure how long the parallel bit is in between the tapers though, and whether the tapers are straight or convex; I'm presuming straight.


Edited By peak4 on 21/02/2016 22:31:34

Edited By peak4 on 21/02/2016 22:36:47

21/02/2016 21:18:49

Some time ago I picked up an Ackworthie Tapping Head, quite cheaply as it came without any collets; I think I gave a tenner for it.

Now I have a little more time, as I retired last year, I was going to knock some up, but have no idea what the originals looked like. I'm sure I can make something that works OK, As I've made a set of metric collets for my Clarkson milling chuck in the past, but I knew what I was trying to achieve, as I already had an imperial set.

I can't find any photos or diagrams on the net anywhere, other than this one for sale on ebay. **LINK** so at least you can see what type of head it is.

Does anyone have one the same and is able to show me either a photo or some measurements of an original collet.

Many Thanks


Edited By peak4 on 21/02/2016 21:19:07

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