Here is a list of all the postings peak4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Potts Drill Grinding Jig|
Thanks Bjorn, much appreciated. I remembered I has an account with that forum and re-set my password.
Pretty much the same as my original one, but I was finding that the spring steel detent on mine was catching on the core of the flute on small drills, if the detent was long enough to set 13mm ones.
Can't get your link to work yet, maybe it's still uploading.
Looks like it makes a nice job of the sharpening, but unfortunately that's the only photo on that thread that I can see.
Any chance of a pic of the location detent on the business end?
Many thanks, and welcome to the forum
|Thread: Sulphuric Acid for anodising|
Who advertise on ebay **LINK**
though I got mine, for electro/acid sharpening files from South Yorkshire Battery Services
I would have thought that any specialist car/truck/motorcycle battery supplier would be able to come up with the goods.
Many batteries are supplied dry and filled before they sell you one.
|Thread: Generating division plates from scratch|
Maybe obtain a large wooden disk, say MDF so it's stable. The larger the better for greater accuracy.
Cut the diameter such that a tape can be wrapped round it where the measurements overlap at a point exactly divisible my the number of holes which you wish to generate.
i.e. for a 48 hole plate, a disk with a circumference of exactly 48", or 96cm or whatever else seems applicable with the materials on hand. It would need to be slightly undersize to allow for the thickness of the tape.
The tape doesn't even need to be accurate, provided the marking is consistent along its length, and it doesn't stretch.
Glue/pin the tape to the edge of the disk and use the measurements on the tape to index your blank for drilling.
I'm sure that a few lengths of brown paper or similar, wrapped round the disc, would then allow a 49 division plate to be made, or some judicious sanding a 47 increment plate.
(Looks like I overlapped with several folk. Must learn to type faster)
Edited By peak4 on 13/06/2016 11:25:27
|Thread: Harrison L5 new to me|
I've never been too happy with levering on the key socket to unscrew the chucks on my Myford.
Rightly or wrongly, I use an open ended spanner one one of the jaws, having made sure they are fully engaged in their slots first of course.
|Thread: Impulse Drive Pendulum Clocks|
Here you go. I have one hanging up in my dining room. Runs fine off 12v; it doesn't need the full -50v.
|Thread: Cutting an Hexagonal hole|
Here's an alternative method, which would require a 5 sided "drill" bit.
I can recall seeing an article on this years ago in either EIM, ME or MEW, can't remember when, or which magazine.
Edited By peak4 on 11/06/2016 14:56:09
Edited By peak4 on 11/06/2016 14:56:57
|Thread: Potts Drill Grinding Jig|
John, sorry for not replying, I've only just re-found this thread now that it's been rejuvenated. Been having a rather busy time tying up my Dad's estate and trying to purchase a new house ourselves, so sharpening drills has been rather on the back burner.
A set of instructions would be appreciated for the Potts, along with a photo/diagram of what the drill locating detent should look like. I've tried a variety of shapes and sizes, but the issue seems to be;
A detent which sticks up far enough to locate a 1/2" drill, fouls the flutes of a 3/16" one.
Similarly a shorter detent for a 3/16" drill doesn't stick up far enough for a large drill..
The cheapo Picador style, die cast monkey metal, ones have an adjustable detent to allow for this, but my factory made Potts one has a fixed detent held in place by a 7BA screw. I can't imagine one is expected to have a box of different detents, so I must be missing something somewhere.
On the up side, it does seem to give a good sharp even drill, but with rather too much relief.
p.s. does anyone know how to configure a permanant signature on this message board?
|Thread: Hello from South yorkshire|
Hello from the top of Crookes in Sheffield
Edited By peak4 on 09/06/2016 21:27:55
|Thread: Mystery Tool?|
There's an Australian firm, now called Bainbridge that make ear marking pliers. Looks like they may have an association with Dominion
|Thread: Stolen Alchin Traction Engine (Facebook Post)|
Seems there's been an Alchin stolen from Burton Latimer, so this seems a reasonable place to help publicise it.
I'm afraid it's a Facebook post, followed by a screenshot, but it's the best I can do. I appreciate that this will exclude many members, but it's the best I can do off the top of my head.
Text from FB post
"Could I ask you all please for any information as my mum and dads house was broken into last night along churchillway and ransacked,I'm heart broken there car has been stolen along with some very sentimental items one of which was my late grandfathers hand made alchin steam engine,this means a lot to my family and is this most valued item that has been taken,which had such great sentimental value please please keep an eye out for anything. Heart broken is an understatement please contact myself or police for anything regarding this incident. Please please share my parents are distraught"
Edited By JasonB on 03/06/2016 13:09:43
Edited By JasonB on 03/06/2016 13:12:00
|Thread: Progress drill motor|
I would suggest that what it means, is that from the factory it has been wired in Star formation to run off conventional 3 phase mains.
It can however be readily altered to Delta formation to run off 220/240 volt three phase mains..
This means that you could change to Delta and run it off an inverter, or lash up something yourself with run and start capacitors to trick it into thinking it's running off 3 phase.
There's likely to be 6 terminals under the cable cover with wires you need to move around.
|Thread: Micro Four Thirds : Lens Mount problem|
The only thing I've ever found was an exploded diagram for the original E-1, nothing else at all, apart from user manuals.
Michael, The Oly menu system is rather different to the Panasonic.
For one thing, there is no "shoot without lens" option.
For a purely manual lens, you just set the focus to Manual, and exposure to AP or Manual. In Body IS can be manually set according to the focal length of the lens.
On an m4/3 body with an m4/3s lens, depressing the lens release button on the body kills communication with the lens;
the aperture shows as -.-
the focal length goes to ---
the EVF goes black, and the shutter release doesn't trip.
On a 4/3 body with a 4/3 lens pressing the lens release button kills the aperture display again; It doesn't focus either, but the shutter does trip, though the lens does stop down.
A manual lens, such as an 8mm Peleng, works fine on either m4/3 or 4/3 cameras, with the appropriate adaptor, and operates in MF, with either AP or Manual metering modes.
Neither throws a wobbly as such, but neither does it work correctly.
You don't get a warning message as such, the giveaway for the location pin not being quite home is the lack of aperture information in the Viewfinder/Monitor/LCD
Regarding whether the lens will Auto or Manual Focus with the release button depressed. AF doesn't work. Manual depends on the lens, some are purely fly by wire, in which case they won't MF, some have a clutch, in which case they will.
There's much more to it when you start interspersing extension tubes or teleconverters.
Edited By peak4 on 31/05/2016 21:40:39
Michael, yes the button on the Oly has the same effect.
It needs the contact behind it to ensure that the lens is sitting correctly on the contacts to initialise the handshaking betwixt lens and body.
I think I'd just take the ring off carefully and have a squint behind it.
Sorry, can't help you on that one, as all my stuff is Olympus.
Unfortunately being an older model, unless it has sentimental value, it's probably not cost effective to have it repaired commercially. Luton Cameras seem to have a good reputation from what I've heard.
Are you sure the gold pins are clean? They should be self cleaning, since they are a wiping contact, but it's not unknown for there to be issues. IPA or a soft pencil eraser seems to be the order of the day.
Personally I think I'd be out with the watchmakers screwdriver.
|Thread: which camera?|
If you have the cash, and a 4/3-m4/3 adaptor, there's always the Sigma 150mm F2.8, a spectacular performer in most people's estimations.
Incidentally, my previous post should have read 300mm F4 :The 300mm F2.8 is the larger 4/3s format lens.
There's one for sale at a very good price on the UK Olympus forum HERE
Edited By peak4 on 31/05/2016 00:27:17
|Thread: Heat Treatment - hardening and tempering|
You might do well to seek advice from the British Blades Forum as well
|Thread: which camera?|
As far as I know, just Olympus, and then only with the latest software revision.
Currently I believe Focus Stacking (i.e. in camera) only works with the m4/3 60mm, 12-40mm F2.8, & 40-150mm F2.8 lenses and then only on the E-M1, I'm assuming that the new 300mm F2.8 will also work, or will be updated in firmware soon. the 1.4 converter can be used with the 40-150mm as well.
Focus Bracketing works with the E-M1, E-M5 Mk2 and E-M10 Mk2 and all M4/3s lenses (where the images are saved separately for post processing combination; Maybe only the Olympus m4/3s lenses, I'm not sure)
Edited By peak4 on 30/05/2016 21:54:14
Edited By peak4 on 30/05/2016 21:55:24
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