I guess some of the answer will depend upon whether you're making stuff purely for yourself, or for someone else to use at the far end. If your "customer" needed calibrated standards for the parts, you wouldn't need to be trying this yourself.
I discussed this with a friend of mine, who unlike me, is a proper engineer. His previous occupations included engineering and managerial roles in making micrometers, other precision measuring gear, surface plates etc. as well as being a consultant for NAMAS.
The general conclusion was that for my home use, consistency within the workshop is more important than absolute accuracy, so long as we are "close enough", for want of a better expression.
By the latter I mean, that it's no use making a hole or shaft that doesn't fit a bought in bearing for example.
Essentially, at home I'm making something which will fit something else I already have, or will then subsequently make.
I had a variety of second hand mics, of dubious origins, from 0-6" with no standard length bars; I did eventually buy a 1-2" with a 1" round disk standard in the box (I'd no idea how accurate that was).
I'm very much aware that my only methods of checking things for consistency could lead to a cumulative error, but had little choice. Using my rather dodgy methods, I found several needed a little adjustment.
My 0-1" was set to zero OK as normal, and checked wide open with the 1" standard from the 1-2" mic. All seemed to be OK
The same standard set the 1" end of the 1-2" Ball bearings are likely to be made to close tolerance, so a 1/2" ball really should be close to 0.500" for a mid range wear/sanity check.
Find something that's got a good surface finish and is very close to 1" & measure with the smaller mic; record the average of several readings. (maybe use the foot of one of your best squares, or even an unworn part of a lathe bed.)
Add the 1" standard next to it, and measure the total with the wide end of the 1-2" , which should tally with the sum of the two readings.
Having adjusted/"proved" the 1-2" mic at both ends, find something that's almost exactly 2" long/diameter, and measure it with the wide end of the 1-2", and then the short end of the 2-3" and make sure there is consistency between the two instruments.
Carry on and work through your external mics, doing sanity checks with internal mics as you work through everything. Your newly made/measured home 2" standard, doesn't have to be 2" of course, provided both 1-2" & 2-3" mics measure it as the same 1.994"
Just keep on thinking about cumulative errors and ways to mitigate them.
Since you are the only one using them, you will have set everything to your own "feel" as well.
Last year I picked up a set of gauge blocks in good condition; most of the ones I've used still wring together nicely.
Their first job was to check my guesstimated range of mic settings, done several years previously; I barely needed to tweak anything at all, certainly less than half a thou at the very most.
On the other hand, I recently picked up several larger mics up to I think 10".
Checking these out with my newly acquired gauge blocks, all but one needed tweaking by up to several thou.
I've no idea if it was due to wear, or being dropped, and certainly don't have things like optical flats to check for lack of parallelism of the anvils. They are though now usable for anything I'm ever likely to need.
Just noticed Arc do a Self-branded 100mm s/c 4 jaw chuck “Chinese Origin”. Anyone got experience of them? At least it looks nicely finished.
I have an HBM one which seems nicely finished and is pretty accurate; currently mounted on my dividing head.
I'm sure Ketan would give you an honest opinion on the ones he's selling, particularly as he is changing supplier by the looks of it.
I seem to recall him writing about it in past thread somewhere.
Don't forget, it's not just changing the platform, in the way that updating to a newer version of vBulletin would work.
There's also the more major consideration of importing all the historic posts from this forum without breaking the structure.
That's time consuming and costly, particularly as this forum is likely hosted on custom software.
One short term easy 'get you by' if this moving of the toolpost occurs is to have a single layer of copy paper interspersed between topslide and the toolholder - the improvement to the gripping power at the same torque of the nut out of all proprtion to it's simplicity and a good trick to use for anything that needs clamping anywhere, mill or lathe and especially if the part is liable to distortion with tight clamping.
Regards - Ramon
Yellow pages are the way to go for me, rather than copy paper as I'm a stooge; well I spent many years living in Yorkshire.
Also having a copy is handy when you have clean work to do, say re-building a brake cylinder, or alternatively something you've just dismantled that's covered in grease.
Work on the book, closed like a notepad, and bin the page as soon as it gets dirty.
My ML7 also has a 100mm chuck, and appears to be standard from what I can tell from the manual.
I have no way of using a c-spanner to lock the spindle. As far as I can see the only practical method is to engage a gear. I don’t need to apply a shock load, slight pressure on the long adjustable spanner always breaks it loose with not much effort. I never felt I was applying enough load to strip a gear.
Mine came with a 4" Griptru, which is worth seeking out if you can find a good used one at the right price.
Re locking the spindle, I've not used this method as I have a S7 with spindle lock, but Mr Jordan's method looks nice and easy.
Previous mention of a C spanner was to turn the chuck, rather than lock the spindle wasn't it?
Finally got round to completing another 5 arbors to hold pre-balanced grinding wheels for the Herbert.
All essentially copies of the original at lower left.
Four with 1 ¼" (31.75mm) cores and one with 32mm to suit a diamond wheel I have.
22tpi Left Hand thread on the 2" slotted nuts, screwcut in the lathe. The main body is a shade over 3" diameter.
I should work faster, they're already starting to show signs of rust before I've even mounted any wheels.
A sharp centre drill works quite well sometimes in stainless.
The small diameter centre point helps it start cutting, as it allows high pressure on the cutting edge, but the smaller diametaer part is very short, so well reinforced by the rest of the drill behind it.
Use a stainless grade tapping lubricant, and a conventional shaped drill, rather than one of the modern bell shaped ones..
There's someone on ebay based in Weymouth who lists camelbacks kbalstmetalworking 12" currently come in at £150 unmachined
They are apparently cast by someone called KJ Metals.
I've have no contact with either firm.
There was also blacksheepuk2015 on ebay, who, as I recall, was a machine reconditioner who had some surplus castings up for sale earlier in the year; I believe he'd had some cast for himself and added a few extras to the batch. I think he said that those would be his last batch.
That might well tie up with Pete Cordell's comment above, which points to H.R Lamb and son; machine tool reconditioner and straight edge manufacturer..
I created an album ready to upload some photos. I simply cannot get the orientation correct. The photos are in the correct orientation on my Windows 10 computer but after upload they seem to have a life of their own on which way they end up left right upside down. It would be very helpful if you added a simple Rotate button to fix orientation problems after upload, just like you can on a principal auction site. Failing that technical advance what is the trick? Thanks !
If you have a W10 computer, how about trying a program like Faststone Image Viewer.
Nominally free, though I'm sure contributions will be willingly accepted.
Quite powerful and sill suit most basic editing needs.
For keeping mine clean, after having used an MT2 reamer for de-burring, I use a radiator brush from my local discount shop.
Think test tube cleaner on steroids.
Also the cork from a bottle of port is just the right size to fit the Myford tailstock taper when not in use to prevent the ingress of swarf, cast iron dust etc. (Champagne or other drinks are available for MT3 tapers.)
Once the tailstock taper is clean, just wipe any male taper with a paper towel, and then your fingers before inserting the tool.
Fingers are very sensitive, and will easily pick upon any damage or embedded swarf.
When I did one some years ago, I used a Bosch woodworker's router in a custom holder in the toolpost
This held a conventional mounted grinding point; just make sure you purchase one what's suitably rate for high rpm, rather than a cheapo 3000rpm one intended for an electric drill.
..................A flat magnet about 2 x 1 x 3/16 inches does similar duties well enough when needed.....................
Well worth dismantling old computer hard drives as a means of deleting the data.
They yield a couple of powerful curved magnets, which can sometimes get in better than straight ones.
The platters also make reasonable surface coated mirrors, rather than looking through the glass at an angle on conventional mirrors.
Nice little training/publicity video from Starrett here;
Maybe worth keeping an eye on ebay; they don't seem to be that popular these days compared to digital.
I have both 6" & 8" imperial Mitutoyo ones which came for little money, an ooze quality compared to cheaper new ones
p.s. they even briefly mention the second way to measure depth
Nice one, it's looking quite good at that.
I'll get around to doing mine at some point, but obviously using the tape, as I have it in stock.
Currently making a batch of arbors for the grinder at the moment.
Re your comment on oils.
Don't know if you're aware, but Pennine Lubricants are reasonably priced for slideway, and hydraulic oils, (and also for cutting oils in their Metalwork section).
I'm using their neat synthetic cutting oil in my larger Warco GH1330 as well as their slideway oil on all my lathes.
The Nuto equivalent hydraulic oil on the other Myford bits, and a soluble oil in an old hand sprayer for the power hacksaws and grinder.
They are at the top end of the old Batchelors pea factory off Claywheels Lane.
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