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Member postings for peak4

Here is a list of all the postings peak4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Colchester Master Mk1 lifting + moving advice
02/11/2019 00:16:53

The Colchester Student is apparently 625Kg with tailstock etc.

Since it's on a good solid pallet, it might save the need for my earlier suggestion of making wheels.
I think, if funds allow, a hired or borrowed pallet truck would be favourite, I'd suggest a wide type with a couple of ratchet straps to hold the lathe down. Plywood similar sheets would clearly be needed to span the gravel.
If you're careful and don't damage them, they might cut up for shelving, cabinets, worktops etc.

For my own worktops I actually used 47mm chipboard, rescued from a mezzanine floor. I then faced it with laminated flooring, to leave a nice clean surface; it's common to pick up just a couple of packs as end-of-line for very little money. Two or three layers of the plywood would re-use in a similar manner for a very sturdy bench, so the money/materials are not wasted; it wouldn't even matter much if a bit damaged.

The wider pallet trucks would be more stable for the trip to the workshop, and may well allow enough height to raise it up most of the way to the step.

What's at the other end of the workshop; anything to anchor a winch to? Maybe even add a Rawl anchor to the floor. Judicially placed, it may even have other uses. Depending on the final resting place for the lathe, might it even double up as one of the ground anchors for finally bolting it down?


29/10/2019 19:08:13

I've just moved a workshop myself and also had a Warco 1330 delivered, which I needed to move into its final resting place; Also recently helped a friend move a large Elliot Turret mill and a Large lathe, Triumph I think. I've also had a fair amount of practice moving 10' x 4'6" equipment racks around at work, up to about 3/4 ton.

As with many of the above comments from other contributors, caution is advised. Yes it's good that metal to metal friction is fairly low, which helps one move stuff about, but it also allows things to go wrong very quickly.

You obviously don't need telling that you lathe will be fairly top heavy, so side slopes are to be treated with caution, and even on the level, things can still fall over. For that reason, I'd be reluctant to have longitudinal bars for the cabinet to slide along; if it slides off them, it's well on the way to falling over, due to the momentum.
Don't be afraid to have an extra rope(s) transverse to the bed, going to solid anchors, one either side, to ensure it all stays upright.

Steel rollers transverse to the bed work well enough; on a concrete floor I prefer thinner solid ones, but over an uneven surface, a larger diameter can be advantageous as it allows the roller to climb over the odd pebble etc. If a roller stops suddenly, there's a danger that the lathe can carry on going by sliding over the now stationary roller, due to the aforementioned low friction.

I don't know the layout of your garden, so am reluctant to give specific advice, more just food for thought. If your cabinet has suitable bolting down points, how about using them to attach two pieces of box section, transverse to the bed, with a wheel on each end. Anything to widen the "wheelbase" has to help stability.

Personally, this is the only way I'd use longitudinal rails to slide the lathe along, and then only angle iron, rather than scaff tube, unless the latter is somehow constrained to prevent it rolling.
Engine cranes, whilst having a decent capacity, are also quite cumbersome with something as wide and long as a lathe, particularly if the ground beneath is less than ideal. However, if you have one, maybe it could temporarily loan its castors to your two lengths of box section; they should have the capacity.

Here's how I've done stuff recently, utilising some specially designed angle brackets which were attached when I took delivery of a large and heavy cabinet at work, not sure of the weight but well over a ton.

I re-purposed the brackets, and use a couple of lengths of threaded rod at each end, to form a pair of cradles in which the lathe sits, shown here on a Myford, but have been used on bigger stuff such as my large fire safe. I think I used them on the big Warco as well. 600+Kg

Myford on Wheels

Myford on wheels

Myford on Wheels

If enlisting help, I always make it clear that only one person is in charge at any one time; it may or may not be me depending on the individual logistics. I prefer a rule that states anyone can shout Stop, but only the person formally in charge, at any one time, says Go. Discuss the plan in detail before moving anything, and make sure everyone fully understands it.
Also, its perfectly reasonable to hand control to someone else part way through a move, such as going through a door. I always do that formally, even if it does sound officious, i.e. "John, you're now in control"; make sure they've heard you and confirmed/agreed.

N.B. Ensure all personnel have an escape route in case it goes pear shaped.

Good Luck

p.s. whereabouts roughly are you in the country?

Edited By peak4 on 29/10/2019 19:16:14

Thread: Jacobs model 6414 chuck - removal
29/10/2019 02:09:12

I've one of these myself.
Here's Jacob's advice on removal

See also this Indestructables walkthrough


Thread: Replacing a Clarkson 'autolock' chuck with a standard ER collet chuck?
24/10/2019 21:04:07

Dave, personally I'd go for the smaller ER25 collet chuck than the one Oldmart linked to, as it's just less cumbersome as well as being cheaper.
A less expensive one to that which I linked to earlier, is available from Chronos, but I've no idea of the quality; they also supply it in a kit with collets, if you don't have any already. This looks to be a one piece version with no machining to complete. Either would then fit onto an MT2 arbor with a pre cut Myford spindle nose. I have one of these as well as a parallel to Myford arbour. The latter might make tool sharpening easier too, should you ever obtain a tool cutter grinder.

If I was in your position, I wouldn't modify either the mill spindle, or your Clarkson Chuck. Since you've got a Myford, the ER chuck I linked to earlier would seem the best option, if finances allow.

Looking at your earlier photo, I'd say your spindle has both the Myford thread as well as the circular register behind/above it. Certainly that was the original design. I've even used a conventional, Myford fit, 3&4 jaw chuck on the mill to hold a large fly cutter.

I'd certainly look to getting one with a ball race closing nut, rather than a plain one, as shown in that link. Collets for the C Type do come up on ebay and at car boot sales/autojumbles. Note, they are not interchangeable with either the S Type or Osborn ones.

My chuck came with just imperial collets; so to start with, I made my own metric set, even those are 20TPI, so a 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" imperial taps were used to cut the threads in the 6mm, 10mm and 12mm. I was struggling for something to use for a 16mm 20TPI, so in the short term I used a plain home made collet until a proper 16mm one turned up at a steam rally.

Apologies for the poor photos to follow, but they were just quick grab shots, as we're off out to Wetherspoons for a curry soon.

Here's my version of the Clarkson C type with the left handed nut at the top.

Note the little slug at the left hand end. It's 3/8" WW external to fit the drawbar hole in the taper, with a 6mm hole in it to fit the smaller draw bar in the DW mill spindle. I also have a 6mm/10mm one to allow the use of cheaper imported MT2 blanks, which come tapped M10, rather than 3/8.

collet chuck 01.jpg

And fitted to my DW mill, with the nut removed as it's just a bit too thick for this application.;

collet chuck 02.jpg

Next for a height comparison, the same 10mm threaded Clarkson cutter in an MT2 ER25 holder.

collet chuck 03.jpg

Followed up with the ER25 collet holder on a Myford nose; in this case a Warco 720 Super 7 copy.

collet chuck 05.jpg

And on the mill

collet chuck 04.jpg

Just for comparison, the same mill in an MT2 Clarkson S Type, the release nut just fits on this one.

collet chuck 07.jpg

And an MT2 Osborn Titanic

collet chuck 08.jpg

The ER chucks and the Clarkson C Type will hold plain shank cutters without modification, The S Type and the Osborn need a little slug making to enable the chuck to tighten up the collet on the shank of the mill.
All will hold threaded end mills, but only the ER type will easily hold double ended ones.



Edited By peak4 on 24/10/2019 21:25:55

24/10/2019 14:57:00

Dave, yes that's a Dore Westbury Mk1 head you have there. Quite a neat idea with the slot to save anything spinning in the MT2 bore.
I'm almost certain that the thread will be a Myford nose thread, the same as a Super 7 etc.

Whilst it will be more expensive than a cheap imported MT2 ER25 collet chuck, I'd consider one designed for a Myford, intended as a lathe collet chuck.

More rigid by quite a long way; It's what I fit, when I want to use ER25 collets in my DW Mill

Also has the advantage that no drawbar is required, so less chance of something stuck in the taper, if one is a bit over enthusiastic with a spanner.

There are other suppliers, but Here's an example. In the ideal word, it would help to have a friend with a Myford to fit the two parts together correctly on the register.

I'm off out now, but I'll try and come up with a photo later today or tomorrow when it's raining.




Edited By peak4 on 24/10/2019 15:06:14

Edited By peak4 on 24/10/2019 15:07:54

23/10/2019 22:38:09

Your Clarkson Autolock looks different to my "C" Type one. I wonder if its been modified, particularly if the V. Head is home brewed.
Where yours is turned down from the main body size, and then further machined with the flats, mine is full diameter and sporting a left hand thread with a nut to act as an ejector.

I'm sure, as Neil mentioned above, you could duplicate the spanner flats on a cheap MT2 ER25 holder.

Quick edit as tea's ready;

See This Thread, which I've not fully read yet, and This One which show chucks with the same flats as yours.

Also, it looks like the particular Clarkson chuck you have, it appears to be a "C" Type, has the advantage that it will also hold plain shank cutters.



Edited By peak4 on 23/10/2019 23:14:16

Thread: End mill regrinding
22/10/2019 13:54:49
Posted by David George 1 on 22/10/2019 11:41:04:

I rang Dormer tools Ltd and they sent me a free handbook with lots of information on sharpening cutters taps and drills. I just rang and asked for customer services 0870 850 4466 they are at Chesterfield.


David, would you please let us know the name of the booklet when it arrives, so we can search for a downloadable version, rather than troubling Dormer.


Thread: Surface Mount Switch
17/10/2019 09:59:27

Doug, probably should have mentioned, PC, rather than phone/tablet; just checked and works on my phone with Chrome as a browser on Android.

Under the Google search box, there are options for "All", "Shopping" "Images" " Videos" "News" more etc.

This option is how the results are displayed, so only shows up after the search.


17/10/2019 01:49:44

When you're looking for something generic, rather than specific. it's sometimes useful, when using Google, to go for Image, rather than the normal default text output of the results.

It's much more like thumbing through an old paper catalogue so look for something that fits the bill

e.g. NVR Start stop which quite quickly leads to a variety of sources. e.g. ebay


Thread: VPN?
17/10/2019 01:38:45

Can't comment on VPN, but I do use Quad9 for a DNS


Thread: Anyone know about buying freehold to a house in the north
16/10/2019 21:26:53
Posted by Ian Parkin on 16/10/2019 20:53:08:


its the church actually


At least they're likely to be a reasonable landlord, but if they plan on selling regardless, then it's anyone's guess who will buy.
I'm not sure what's the reason for these estates companies hoovering up bulk leases, but I guess it's so that they can charge fees for various "services". If you read my earlier link to a Google Review, some are less scrupulous than others.

One of my previous neighbours was charged something north of £400 for permission to build a small extension, and another told they would have a fee to pay as they'd added a wooden summerhouse down the garden.

You don't need many of those to get payback if you've bought a bulk lot of leases at a Mark Jenkinson auction at Bramhall Lane, assuming they get them at a knock down rate.

The advice I received, was to see if the neighbours were interested in clubbing together to share costs.

Do you have a copy of your lease, for either you or a solicitor, to check the small print? Is there anything about Chancel Repair Liability in there?

It may be that the church are selling, prior to the implementation of the new law, should it ever get passed. £2.5K may be more than they would expect to raise elsewhere.

Perhaps Mr Shaw could tell you if he thinks it worthwhile engaging him. wink

Good Luck,


Edited By peak4 on 16/10/2019 21:31:32

16/10/2019 13:29:30

Ian, I would suggest that it depends on whether you ever plan to sell the house in the future, or say build an extension, or anything else which would need notification to the lease owner.
Having just sold a leasehold terrace in Crookes, it can be a pain in the backside if the lease owner doesn't play ball.

This again would depend on who would end up as the new lease owner should you not buy it yourself.
I don't think your own legal fees would be excessive, since the lease owner is offering to sell it to you.

In my case, I looked at buying the lease a while ago, as I knew I was going to sell up in 2-3 years time. However, on investigation, I found that my lease owner would be as obstructive as possible regarding the sale.
I could have been looking at many thousands just in my own legal fees, to force the lease sale to me, as the company concerned have something of a reputation of refusing to reply to anything regarding a sale until they receive formal court paperwork. I couldn't even get an accurate estimate of costs, as I'd likely have to employ a barrister as well as a solicitor for the expected court case.

My own sale was delayed, earlier this year, as the lease owner refused to provide any information to prove that I was up to date on my ground rent £3/year.

Jeffrey Shaw of Nether Edge Law is the local expert in Sheffield, which has a rather different arrangement on leases to other parts of the UK; please be careful from whom you accept advice on this forum.

He has a reputation of being a tad abrasive, even to clients, but is apparently the best in the city, specifically for Sheffield leases.
He's also a poster on Sheffield Forum, but doesn't stray into business matters on there.

You could do worse than having a look at this Google review. (not a review of Mr Shaw I should stress) frown

PM me with a phone number by all means for further discussion, if you've lost the card I gave you on my visit to collect the blast cabinet, or just give me a bell.


p.s. the two previous posters got in whilst i was typing a linger reply, but it seems we concur in this case.


Edited By peak4 on 16/10/2019 13:34:22

Thread: What are these pliers for
15/10/2019 01:33:42

I've never seen GPO/BT quickgrips of that construction.
Some of the older ones were a box joint, though the ones that were issues by the time I joined in 1979 were a normal lap joint. That said, even the ones used by the old hands then were still of conventional solid jaw construction.
It's hard to tell from the photos, but are these some sort of a double lap joint, hence the slot, or an open ended box construction?


Edited By peak4 on 15/10/2019 01:34:52

Thread: Brake band friction lining
15/10/2019 01:28:33

I've just been looking for the two Sheffield places I used to use, but it seems they've either moved or closed.
However, there's also Custom Brakes and Hydraulics still in Sheffield, though unless it's a re-brand of one of the other firms, I've not used them myself..

I think they do machine stuff, and also the classic car and bike market as well.


Thread: Tingling from Myford Super 7
12/10/2019 14:24:11
Posted by Colin Wilks on 12/10/2019 13:28:50:The garage/ workshop is part of the house so is spurred off the ground floor socket circuit. The lathe is the far point from the distribution board, which was a new installation 17 years ago. There would be a benefit to having an isolation switch for the whole workshop, but I am not sure about the benefits of having a separate supply as Emgee suggests?

If there is a benefit, now is the time to do it of course.

Edited By Colin Wilks on 12/10/2019 13:29:45

I can't advise you what to do, as all our circumstances are different.
When we moved in 3 yars ago, I had a brand new garage/workshop built.
We, the builder/electrician and I decided the best solution was to run an armoured cable (probably not needed in your case) from a spare way on the distribution board.
This was fitted with its own MCB, but wasn't rccd/elcb protected at the house end.
I then had a new distribution board fitted in the garage, which has its own ELCB/RCCD protection.

That way, if I do trip something in the garage, it doesn't take the house out too.

Also it's allowed me to have more than one circuit in the garage, e.g. its own ring main ,+ 16A outlet for the compressor, + 16A for the permanent 110v transformer etc.

Mine's a larger installation than yours, but you get the idea. Also, this allows each of the individual circuits to have its own appropriate curve on the MCB, e.g. my 110v transformer has a large inrush current, so has a "C" Curve breaker, as has the 16A compressor outlet, but the ring main is a normal "B" type.

I'm only working in there on my own, so the overall power consumption calculation, was down to my own projected load at any one time. I just make sure I don't trip the house end C40 MCB by welding, whilst boiling the kettle, with a 3KW fan heater running, and having a mate washing his hands with the electric water heater; You get the idea.

I now need to re-wire the existing workshop on the same principal.


Thread: What is this called?
12/10/2019 13:32:26
Posted by Mike Poole on 12/10/2019 11:23:28:


try here It’s a Fuhr item


Edited By Mike Poole on 12/10/2019 11:53:36

Oddly cheaper on ebay from the same source £9 inc P&P


Thread: Is this chuck mounted on a 5C collet?
11/10/2019 14:35:58
Posted by Ian P on 11/10/2019 10:42:28:

I've searched till I'm blue but there seems to be a dearth of 5c blank arbours, I'm quite happy to machine one to suit the chuck thread but the only ones Arc stock are for chucks that take backplates so it seems rather wasteful to use those.

Does anyone know where blank arbors are available?

Ian P

It may not be of much help, but I purchased quite a bit of 5c stuff from John Moore (Bogstandard/Blogwitch) in his workshop clearance, which included Morse, R8, and Myford to 5c adaptors, all of which he made himself.

I believe he bought his 5c blanks from ARC, as the only source he could find.

If you know him and are still in contact, off the forums, he may be able to advise.


Thread: Aldi Metal Bandsaw
11/10/2019 14:07:29
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 11/10/2019 13:11:58:

There's a thread on this somewhere


Here's one of the more recent discussions


Thread: Cast iron cabinet theft
11/10/2019 02:23:42
Posted by duncan webster on 11/10/2019 01:30:03:
Posted by peak4 on 10/10/2019 21:11:46:


It's hard to mooch around scrapyards these days, but it's good that, officially at least, they're not allowed to purchase for cash.

But I've been told of at least one scrappy who pays out by cheque then offers the use of his cheque cashing service,

Hence my comment "officially at least" wink
Since we moved, I've fortunately no longer felt the need to keep a pick-axe handle by the back door, though thefts aren't unknown even in Buxton.

No, the garden implement, that I forgot to return to the shed, isn't the product of a paranoid mind, but has been in my possession whilst chatting to a couple of our local visitors in the past.

p.s. where's the scrappy, I've got loads of lead acid batteries to dispose of.  devil


Edited By peak4 on 11/10/2019 02:26:35

10/10/2019 21:11:46

Rainbows, If you have a Facebook account, search for the local interest and local neighbourhood watch groups.
they are quite good at spotting and reporting on vehicles behaving suspiciously.
From what I saw around North Sheffield before I moved away, I'd be surprised if it showed up locally in one of the scrapyards, though it's obviously worth a look.

I regularly saw transit pickups around our way collecting "scrap" but found it hard to believe that the piles of new kids bikes, good condition garden furniture, and fine cast iron ornaments, could all have been voluntarily "donated". I'm even aware of central heating radiators, both brand new, and even still with the paint drying, have been liberated.
Personally I've lost various large lumps of metalwork, that wasn't visible from the road or even a cursory glance around the back.
Also a full car engine, 4 motorbikes over the years, and someone tried nicking a Landrover gearbox whilst I was there fitting it, similarly the bonet, whilst I was working on the engine on a different day.

I have it on good authority that some of this was collected by a particular extended family, who were known to be rather violent. A little later, this moved on to a different community "litter collection group", also very threatening, perhaps moreso. Be very careful if you have to challenge them.

It's hard to mooch around scrapyards these days, but it's good that, officially at least, they're not allowed to purchase for cash.

I honestly believe that leaving real scrap out on the pavement only encourages these lowlifes to proliferate.

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