Here is a list of all the postings peak4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Colchester Master Mk1 lifting + moving advice|
The Colchester Student is apparently 625Kg with tailstock etc.
Since it's on a good solid pallet, it might save the need for my earlier suggestion of making wheels.
For my own worktops I actually used 47mm chipboard, rescued from a mezzanine floor. I then faced it with laminated flooring, to leave a nice clean surface; it's common to pick up just a couple of packs as end-of-line for very little money. Two or three layers of the plywood would re-use in a similar manner for a very sturdy bench, so the money/materials are not wasted; it wouldn't even matter much if a bit damaged.
The wider pallet trucks would be more stable for the trip to the workshop, and may well allow enough height to raise it up most of the way to the step.
What's at the other end of the workshop; anything to anchor a winch to? Maybe even add a Rawl anchor to the floor. Judicially placed, it may even have other uses. Depending on the final resting place for the lathe, might it even double up as one of the ground anchors for finally bolting it down?
I've just moved a workshop myself and also had a Warco 1330 delivered, which I needed to move into its final resting place; Also recently helped a friend move a large Elliot Turret mill and a Large lathe, Triumph I think. I've also had a fair amount of practice moving 10' x 4'6" equipment racks around at work, up to about 3/4 ton.
I don't know the layout of your garden, so am reluctant to give specific advice, more just food for thought. If your cabinet has suitable bolting down points, how about using them to attach two pieces of box section, transverse to the bed, with a wheel on each end. Anything to widen the "wheelbase" has to help stability.
Personally, this is the only way I'd use longitudinal rails to slide the lathe along, and then only angle iron, rather than scaff tube, unless the latter is somehow constrained to prevent it rolling.
I re-purposed the brackets, and use a couple of lengths of threaded rod at each end, to form a pair of cradles in which the lathe sits, shown here on a Myford, but have been used on bigger stuff such as my large fire safe. I think I used them on the big Warco as well. 600+Kg
If enlisting help, I always make it clear that only one person is in charge at any one time; it may or may not be me depending on the individual logistics. I prefer a rule that states anyone can shout Stop, but only the person formally in charge, at any one time, says Go. Discuss the plan in detail before moving anything, and make sure everyone fully understands it.
N.B. Ensure all personnel have an escape route in case it goes pear shaped.
p.s. whereabouts roughly are you in the country?
Edited By peak4 on 29/10/2019 19:16:14
|Thread: Jacobs model 6414 chuck - removal|
|Thread: Replacing a Clarkson 'autolock' chuck with a standard ER collet chuck?|
Dave, personally I'd go for the smaller ER25 collet chuck than the one Oldmart linked to, as it's just less cumbersome as well as being cheaper.
If I was in your position, I wouldn't modify either the mill spindle, or your Clarkson Chuck. Since you've got a Myford, the ER chuck I linked to earlier would seem the best option, if finances allow.
Looking at your earlier photo, I'd say your spindle has both the Myford thread as well as the circular register behind/above it. Certainly that was the original design. I've even used a conventional, Myford fit, 3&4 jaw chuck on the mill to hold a large fly cutter.
I'd certainly look to getting one with a ball race closing nut, rather than a plain one, as shown in that link. Collets for the C Type do come up on ebay and at car boot sales/autojumbles. Note, they are not interchangeable with either the S Type or Osborn ones.
My chuck came with just imperial collets; so to start with, I made my own metric set, even those are 20TPI, so a 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" imperial taps were used to cut the threads in the 6mm, 10mm and 12mm. I was struggling for something to use for a 16mm 20TPI, so in the short term I used a plain home made collet until a proper 16mm one turned up at a steam rally.
Apologies for the poor photos to follow, but they were just quick grab shots, as we're off out to Wetherspoons for a curry soon.
Here's my version of the Clarkson C type with the left handed nut at the top.
Note the little slug at the left hand end. It's 3/8" WW external to fit the drawbar hole in the taper, with a 6mm hole in it to fit the smaller draw bar in the DW mill spindle. I also have a 6mm/10mm one to allow the use of cheaper imported MT2 blanks, which come tapped M10, rather than 3/8.
And fitted to my DW mill, with the nut removed as it's just a bit too thick for this application.;
Next for a height comparison, the same 10mm threaded Clarkson cutter in an MT2 ER25 holder.
Followed up with the ER25 collet holder on a Myford nose; in this case a Warco 720 Super 7 copy.
And on the mill
Just for comparison, the same mill in an MT2 Clarkson S Type, the release nut just fits on this one.
And an MT2 Osborn Titanic
The ER chucks and the Clarkson C Type will hold plain shank cutters without modification, The S Type and the Osborn need a little slug making to enable the chuck to tighten up the collet on the shank of the mill.
Edited By peak4 on 24/10/2019 21:25:55
Dave, yes that's a Dore Westbury Mk1 head you have there. Quite a neat idea with the slot to save anything spinning in the MT2 bore.
Whilst it will be more expensive than a cheap imported MT2 ER25 collet chuck, I'd consider one designed for a Myford, intended as a lathe collet chuck.
More rigid by quite a long way; It's what I fit, when I want to use ER25 collets in my DW Mill
Also has the advantage that no drawbar is required, so less chance of something stuck in the taper, if one is a bit over enthusiastic with a spanner.
Edited By peak4 on 24/10/2019 15:06:14
Edited By peak4 on 24/10/2019 15:07:54
Your Clarkson Autolock looks different to my "C" Type one.
Quick edit as tea's ready;
Also, it looks like the particular Clarkson chuck you have, it appears to be a "C" Type, has the advantage that it will also hold plain shank cutters.
Edited By peak4 on 23/10/2019 23:14:16
|Thread: End mill regrinding|
David, would you please let us know the name of the booklet when it arrives, so we can search for a downloadable version, rather than troubling Dormer.
|Thread: Surface Mount Switch|
Doug, probably should have mentioned, PC, rather than phone/tablet; just checked and works on my phone with Chrome as a browser on Android.
Under the Google search box, there are options for "All", "Shopping" "Images" " Videos" "News" more etc.
This option is how the results are displayed, so only shows up after the search.
When you're looking for something generic, rather than specific. it's sometimes useful, when using Google, to go for Image, rather than the normal default text output of the results.
Can't comment on VPN, but I do use Quad9 for a DNS
|Thread: Anyone know about buying freehold to a house in the north|
At least they're likely to be a reasonable landlord, but if they plan on selling regardless, then it's anyone's guess who will buy.
One of my previous neighbours was charged something north of £400 for permission to build a small extension, and another told they would have a fee to pay as they'd added a wooden summerhouse down the garden.
You don't need many of those to get payback if you've bought a bulk lot of leases at a Mark Jenkinson auction at Bramhall Lane, assuming they get them at a knock down rate.
Do you have a copy of your lease, for either you or a solicitor, to check the small print? Is there anything about Chancel Repair Liability in there?
Perhaps Mr Shaw could tell you if he thinks it worthwhile engaging him.
Edited By peak4 on 16/10/2019 21:31:32
Ian, I would suggest that it depends on whether you ever plan to sell the house in the future, or say build an extension, or anything else which would need notification to the lease owner.
This again would depend on who would end up as the new lease owner should you not buy it yourself.
Jeffrey Shaw of Nether Edge Law is the local expert in Sheffield, which has a rather different arrangement on leases to other parts of the UK; please be careful from whom you accept advice on this forum.
He has a reputation of being a tad abrasive, even to clients, but is apparently the best in the city, specifically for Sheffield leases.
You could do worse than having a look at this Google review. (not a review of Mr Shaw I should stress)
PM me with a phone number by all means for further discussion, if you've lost the card I gave you on my visit to collect the blast cabinet, or just give me a bell.
p.s. the two previous posters got in whilst i was typing a linger reply, but it seems we concur in this case.
Edited By peak4 on 16/10/2019 13:34:22
|Thread: What are these pliers for|
I've never seen GPO/BT quickgrips of that construction.
Edited By peak4 on 15/10/2019 01:34:52
|Thread: Brake band friction lining|
I've just been looking for the two Sheffield places I used to use, but it seems they've either moved or closed.
I think they do machine stuff, and also the classic car and bike market as well.
|Thread: Tingling from Myford Super 7|
I can't advise you what to do, as all our circumstances are different.
That way, if I do trip something in the garage, it doesn't take the house out too.
Mine's a larger installation than yours, but you get the idea. Also, this allows each of the individual circuits to have its own appropriate curve on the MCB, e.g. my 110v transformer has a large inrush current, so has a "C" Curve breaker, as has the 16A compressor outlet, but the ring main is a normal "B" type.
|Thread: What is this called?|
Oddly cheaper on ebay from the same source £9 inc P&P
|Thread: Is this chuck mounted on a 5C collet?|
It may not be of much help, but I purchased quite a bit of 5c stuff from John Moore (Bogstandard/Blogwitch) in his workshop clearance, which included Morse, R8, and Myford to 5c adaptors, all of which he made himself.
I believe he bought his 5c blanks from ARC, as the only source he could find.
If you know him and are still in contact, off the forums, he may be able to advise.
|Thread: Aldi Metal Bandsaw|
Here's one of the more recent discussions
|Thread: Cast iron cabinet theft|
Hence my comment "officially at least"
No, the garden implement, that I forgot to return to the shed, isn't the product of a paranoid mind, but has been in my possession whilst chatting to a couple of our local visitors in the past.
p.s. where's the scrappy, I've got loads of lead acid batteries to dispose of.
Edited By peak4 on 11/10/2019 02:26:35
Rainbows, If you have a Facebook account, search for the local interest and local neighbourhood watch groups.
It's hard to mooch around scrapyards these days, but it's good that, officially at least, they're not allowed to purchase for cash.
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