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Member postings for peak4

Here is a list of all the postings peak4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Calibrating Micrometers
12/11/2020 20:34:43

I guess some of the answer will depend upon whether you're making stuff purely for yourself, or for someone else to use at the far end. If your "customer" needed calibrated standards for the parts, you wouldn't need to be trying this yourself.
I discussed this with a friend of mine, who unlike me, is a proper engineer. His previous occupations included engineering and managerial roles in making micrometers, other precision measuring gear, surface plates etc. as well as being a consultant for NAMAS.

The general conclusion was that for my home use, consistency within the workshop is more important than absolute accuracy, so long as we are "close enough", for want of a better expression.
By the latter I mean, that it's no use making a hole or shaft that doesn't fit a bought in bearing for example.
Essentially, at home I'm making something which will fit something else I already have, or will then subsequently make.

I had a variety of second hand mics, of dubious origins, from 0-6" with no standard length bars; I did eventually buy a 1-2" with a 1" round disk standard in the box (I'd no idea how accurate that was).
I'm very much aware that my only methods of checking things for consistency could lead to a cumulative error, but had little choice. Using my rather dodgy methods, I found several needed a little adjustment.

My 0-1" was set to zero OK as normal, and checked wide open with the 1" standard from the 1-2" mic. All seemed to be OK

The same standard set the 1" end of the 1-2" Ball bearings are likely to be made to close tolerance, so a 1/2" ball really should be close to 0.500" for a mid range wear/sanity check.

Find something that's got a good surface finish and is very close to 1" & measure with the smaller mic; record the average of several readings. (maybe use the foot of one of your best squares, or even an unworn part of a lathe bed.)
Add the 1" standard next to it, and measure the total with the wide end of the 1-2" , which should tally with the sum of the two readings.

Having adjusted/"proved" the 1-2" mic at both ends, find something that's almost exactly 2" long/diameter, and measure it with the wide end of the 1-2", and then the short end of the 2-3" and make sure there is consistency between the two instruments.

Carry on and work through your external mics, doing sanity checks with internal mics as you work through everything. Your newly made/measured home 2" standard, doesn't have to be 2" of course, provided both 1-2" & 2-3" mics measure it as the same 1.994"

Just keep on thinking about cumulative errors and ways to mitigate them.

Since you are the only one using them, you will have set everything to your own "feel" as well.

Last year I picked up a set of gauge blocks in good condition; most of the ones I've used still wring together nicely.
Their first job was to check my guesstimated range of mic settings, done several years previously; I barely needed to tweak anything at all, certainly less than half a thou at the very most.

On the other hand, I recently picked up several larger mics up to I think 10".
Checking these out with my newly acquired gauge blocks, all but one needed tweaking by up to several thou.
I've no idea if it was due to wear, or being dropped, and certainly don't have things like optical flats to check for lack of parallelism of the anvils. They are though now usable for anything I'm ever likely to need.


Thread: Myford ML7 Chucks - Which one?
12/11/2020 11:47:01
Posted by Dr_GMJN on 11/11/2020 21:37:31:

Just noticed Arc do a Self-branded 100mm s/c 4 jaw chuck “Chinese Origin”. Anyone got experience of them? At least it looks nicely finished.

I have an HBM one which seems nicely finished and is pretty accurate; currently mounted on my dividing head.
I'm sure Ketan would give you an honest opinion on the ones he's selling, particularly as he is changing supplier by the looks of it.

I seem to recall him writing about it in past thread somewhere.


Thread: What is this tool?
12/11/2020 11:37:14
Posted by geoff adams on 12/11/2020 10:55:39:

it could be a slip gauge holder for holding a stack of gauges hard to see from that angle and not knowing the size


Having just bought one of ebay, I'll go along with that


Thread: Stuart Twin Victoria (Princess Royal) Mill Engine
11/11/2020 23:41:45
Posted by Dr_GMJN on 11/11/2020 22:04:23:

Yes, it’s Metals Procurement in Rotherham. Mark is the owners name....................

Cheers for that, see also Phoenix Steels in Attercliffe for silver and tool steels, Canal St just off Effingham Rd.

and also AMB for stainless and alloy; their yard prices are better than the web prices; again not far away, a non descript gate on Washford Road.


11/11/2020 18:08:50
Posted by Dr_GMJN on 01/11/2020 22:22:39:

I've opted to buy only the castings. I will fabricate the beds from aluminium, and make the rest from stock materials, which I've already got from a local supplier:

A good range of bits there; if you don't mind me asking, who was your local supplier?
As you know, I'm not far from you myself.


Thread: Plans for updating the archaic forum?
10/11/2020 23:57:09

Don't forget, it's not just changing the platform, in the way that updating to a newer version of vBulletin would work.
There's also the more major consideration of importing all the historic posts from this forum without breaking the structure.
That's time consuming and costly, particularly as this forum is likely hosted on custom software.


Thread: ML7 toolpost - Turns Under Load
10/11/2020 23:53:24
Posted by Ramon Wilson on 10/11/2020 21:52:47:


One short term easy 'get you by' if this moving of the toolpost occurs is to have a single layer of copy paper interspersed between topslide and the toolholder - the improvement to the gripping power at the same torque of the nut out of all proprtion to it's simplicity and a good trick to use for anything that needs clamping anywhere, mill or lathe and especially if the part is liable to distortion with tight clamping.

Regards - Ramon

Yellow pages are the way to go for me, rather than copy paper as I'm a stooge; well I spent many years living in Yorkshire.
Also having a copy is handy when you have clean work to do, say re-building a brake cylinder, or alternatively something you've just dismantled that's covered in grease.
Work on the book, closed like a notepad, and bin the page as soon as it gets dirty.


Thread: Myford ML7 Chucks - Which one?
10/11/2020 22:14:20
Posted by Dr_GMJN on 10/11/2020 21:30:36:

My ML7 also has a 100mm chuck, and appears to be standard from what I can tell from the manual.

I have no way of using a c-spanner to lock the spindle. As far as I can see the only practical method is to engage a gear. I don’t need to apply a shock load, slight pressure on the long adjustable spanner always breaks it loose with not much effort. I never felt I was applying enough load to strip a gear.

Mine came with a 4" Griptru, which is worth seeking out if you can find a good used one at the right price.

Re locking the spindle, I've not used this method as I have a S7 with spindle lock, but Mr Jordan's method looks nice and easy.
Previous mention of a C spanner was to turn the chuck, rather than lock the spindle wasn't it?


Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020
10/11/2020 20:45:31

Finally got round to completing another 5 arbors to hold pre-balanced grinding wheels for the Herbert.
All essentially copies of the original at lower left.
Four with 1 ¼" (31.75mm) cores and one with 32mm to suit a diamond wheel I have.
22tpi Left Hand thread on the 2" slotted nuts, screwcut in the lathe. The main body is a shade over 3" diameter.
I should work faster, they're already starting to show signs of rust before I've even mounted any wheels.

pb10269Herbert Junior Wheel Arbors


Edited By peak4 on 10/11/2020 20:46:21

Thread: Hand drilling stainless steel 3mm thick
10/11/2020 02:44:54

A sharp centre drill works quite well sometimes in stainless.
The small diameter centre point helps it start cutting, as it allows high pressure on the cutting edge, but the smaller diametaer part is very short, so well reinforced by the rest of the drill behind it.
Use a stainless grade tapping lubricant, and a conventional shaped drill, rather than one of the modern bell shaped ones..


Thread: Source of straight edg castings
08/11/2020 12:17:27

There's someone on ebay based in Weymouth who lists camelbacks kbalstmetalworking 12" currently come in at £150 unmachined
They are apparently cast by someone called KJ Metals.

I've have no contact with either firm.

There was also blacksheepuk2015 on ebay, who, as I recall, was a machine reconditioner who had some surplus castings up for sale earlier in the year; I believe he'd had some cast for himself and added a few extras to the batch. I think he said that those would be his last batch.
That might well tie up with Pete Cordell's comment above, which points to H.R Lamb and son; machine tool reconditioner and straight edge manufacturer..



Edited By peak4 on 08/11/2020 12:30:39

Thread: registration
08/11/2020 11:59:13

I didn't have any problems, but do you have access to your email account via web mail.
The confirmation email may well have gone into your providers junk mail account, rather than your own local one.


Thread: How To Post Pictures/Photographs and Create Albums
08/11/2020 11:55:45
Posted by mike robinson 2 on 08/11/2020 10:20:18:

I created an album ready to upload some photos. I simply cannot get the orientation correct. The photos are in the correct orientation on my Windows 10 computer but after upload they seem to have a life of their own on which way they end up left right upside down. It would be very helpful if you added a simple Rotate button to fix orientation problems after upload, just like you can on a principal auction site. Failing that technical advance what is the trick? Thanks !

If you have a W10 computer, how about trying a program like Faststone Image Viewer.
Nominally free, though I'm sure contributions will be willingly accepted.
Quite powerful and sill suit most basic editing needs.


Thread: Cleaning Internal Morse Tapers
05/11/2020 11:35:36

For keeping mine clean, after having used an MT2 reamer for de-burring, I use a radiator brush from my local discount shop.
Think test tube cleaner on steroids.
Also the cork from a bottle of port is just the right size to fit the Myford tailstock taper when not in use to prevent the ingress of swarf, cast iron dust etc. (Champagne or other drinks are available for MT3 tapers.)
Once the tailstock taper is clean, just wipe any male taper with a paper towel, and then your fingers before inserting the tool.
Fingers are very sensitive, and will easily pick upon any damage or embedded swarf.


Thread: Truing a hardened half centre on a Super 7
04/11/2020 17:08:09

When I did one some years ago, I used a Bosch woodworker's router in a custom holder in the toolpost
This held a conventional mounted grinding point; just make sure you purchase one what's suitably rate for high rpm, rather than a cheapo 3000rpm one intended for an electric drill.


Thread: Collet Blocks
02/11/2020 22:35:28
Posted by Clive Foster on 02/11/2020 20:25:42:


..................A flat magnet about 2 x 1 x 3/16 inches does similar duties well enough when needed.....................


Well worth dismantling old computer hard drives as a means of deleting the data.
They yield a couple of powerful curved magnets, which can sometimes get in better than straight ones.
The platters also make reasonable surface coated mirrors, rather than looking through the glass at an angle on conventional mirrors.

Thread: Lathe Tool Grinding
02/11/2020 21:34:36

I haven't really thought this through fully, but after turning the blank, how about transferring to mill & rotary table/dividing head, and using the side of a ¼" end mill?


Thread: Virtual Meet Ups
02/11/2020 21:12:54

Yes Please Neil, still no camera (saves me having to tidy up)


Thread: Calliper - Dial reading
02/11/2020 21:07:51

Nice little training/publicity video from Starrett here;

Maybe worth keeping an eye on ebay; they don't seem to be that popular these days compared to digital.
I have both 6" & 8" imperial Mitutoyo ones which came for little money, an ooze quality compared to cheaper new ones
p.s. they even briefly mention the second way to measure depth


Edited By peak4 on 02/11/2020 21:09:22

Thread: Evaluating & Correcting Wear in an ML7
31/10/2020 01:47:37

Nice one, it's looking quite good at that.
I'll get around to doing mine at some point, but obviously using the tape, as I have it in stock.
Currently making a batch of arbors for the grinder at the moment.

Re your comment on oils.
Don't know if you're aware, but Pennine Lubricants are reasonably priced for slideway, and hydraulic oils, (and also for cutting oils in their Metalwork section).
I'm using their neat synthetic cutting oil in my larger Warco GH1330 as well as their slideway oil on all my lathes.
The Nuto equivalent hydraulic oil on the other Myford bits, and a soluble oil in an old hand sprayer for the power hacksaws and grinder.
They are at the top end of the old Batchelors pea factory off Claywheels Lane.


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