Here is a list of all the postings peak4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Best place for offcuts|
Thanks Ian, I'll add to your list with "AMB Stainless" for alloy bar, and surprisingly stainless too. (not scrap box stuff, but happy to cut short lengths to order for personal visitors.)
Ian, am I correct in thinking you're in the Sheffield area?
if so, would you mind PMing me which stockholder you use.
|Thread: Warco milling cutters & carbide tooling tips|
I'm guessing one of these **LINK**
The inner end of the collet does look different to my Clarkson ones, but the actual milling cutters look to be the standard, Clarkson type, threaded end cutters.
Looking at the price Warco charge for extra collets, I'd suggest that it might even be cheaper to buy new from them, rather than second hand off ebay if one had a Clarkson Autolock.
I actually made a metric set myself, as the Autolock chuck for the Centec only came with imperial collets.
|Thread: Tongue in cheek|
Well to chuck in my two-pennorth, and I'm old enough for that to be 1/120 Pond or half a groat.
I can remember phoning round the local timber merchants to price up some beech for the top of a woodworking bench I was about to build, only to be told " We sell it by the metric foot now sir" It eventually transpired that they priced timber in units of 300mm, but they "Could do it by the metre; which is a bit longer than a yard".
Re. good stuff from France, apart from the calvados and cheese, Michele Mouton for me, who rather excelled in the Audi Groups B rally cars, and even set a record time for Pikes Peak.
Edited By peak4 on 25/02/2016 00:38:25
|Thread: Ackworthie Tapping Head|
Thanks for that Emgee, That was what I assumed looking at the head. It would seem that the parallel hole in the body is a smaller diameter than the hole in the nut.
Not quite sure how long the parallel bit is in between the tapers though, and whether the tapers are straight or convex; I'm presuming straight.
Edited By peak4 on 21/02/2016 22:31:34
Edited By peak4 on 21/02/2016 22:36:47
Some time ago I picked up an Ackworthie Tapping Head, quite cheaply as it came without any collets; I think I gave a tenner for it.
Now I have a little more time, as I retired last year, I was going to knock some up, but have no idea what the originals looked like. I'm sure I can make something that works OK, As I've made a set of metric collets for my Clarkson milling chuck in the past, but I knew what I was trying to achieve, as I already had an imperial set.
I can't find any photos or diagrams on the net anywhere, other than this one for sale on ebay. **LINK** so at least you can see what type of head it is.
Does anyone have one the same and is able to show me either a photo or some measurements of an original collet.
Edited By peak4 on 21/02/2016 21:19:07
|Thread: Ml4 broken bull wheel problem.|
Maybe use your 65 tooth gear off the ML7 as a dividing pattern, with a suitable detent, and cut a replacement from a slice of cast iron?
|Thread: surface rust on lathe ways|
Just to throw in something completely different; the motorcyclist's favourite for de-rusting decorative chrome etc is Coke/Pepsi rubbed in with crushed aluminium kitchen foil.
Wipe it off with paper towels and oil it immediately.
It's effectively a very gentle phosphoric acid cleaning, rubbed in with something which is both relatively hard, compared to cloth/paper, but soft compared to the iron of the bed.
It really does work.
|Thread: Multicore Cable|
Cheap nasty 7 or 13 core trailer cable maybe?
|Thread: Sourcing a small spring|
Just been having a look through my boxes of springs, and didn't find anything suitable. However, I did spot a windscreen wiper arm tension spring about the correct size.
How about a trip to your local car spares for one, and then stretch it suitably so make it a compression spring?
Screwfix have a couple on offer at the moment, but I've no idea how good they are.
Just had a spot of bother with my workshop/shed, which it seems has been leaking with all the heavy rain we've just had. I put a new roof on over the weekend and am running a dehumidifier I got cheap from a neighbour when he was having a house moving sale.
It pulled out quite a bit the first night, then very little. I then went down yesterday and ran a fan heater for a couple of hours. This seemed to work and the gizmo pulled a load more water out last night. It's fairly well insulated and reasonably draft proof, barring the single glazing, so with the dehumidifier generating a bit of it's own heat and the residual heat from the fan heater, it seems to work well enough.
I'm not sure I'd want to leave it running full bore all the time though for cost reasons - it seems to be rated @ 250W
|Thread: Cutting Metric thread on an Imperial lathe|
How much do they work out at John.
I don't have a gearbox at the moment, but I'm likely to end up with one after I've found a new house later on in the year.
|Thread: Help to stop backlash|
Or you could try this outfit, who list imperial **LINK**
|Thread: So i want a mill|
Certainly worth considering. I've actually got the 2B, which does the job well enough SEE HERE too.
|Thread: Casting lead|
Also, save a bit for making lead headed/faced hammers
|Thread: Extending thread on stainless steel bolts|
The price seems to vary wildly depending on where you go. Builder's merchants might be cheaper than nut and bolt suppliers, as it's used for chemical anchors.
Toolstation do it for 6.72 per metre which is a good starting point to work from;
|Thread: Polygon Turning|
Here's a couple of uTube clips;
My vague memory from the past recalls something along the lines of the first one, but with a single point tool travelling 6 times faster than the workpiece.
Ever since I bought the Super 7 I've wondered about the feasibility of coming up with something, particularly on the Myford with a 60 tooth bull wheel, which would divide quite easily.
Edited By peak4 on 29/11/2015 11:08:28
I can remember seeing an article on Tomorrow's Word donkeys years ago, which demonstrated a lathe with a geared attachment behind the headstock. The cutting tool spun as well as the workpiece and produced hexagons on the lathe. Fascinating to watch at the time.
|Thread: Mill to replace drill?|
Might be worth keeping your eyes peeled for a Dore Westbury, specially if you can find one with a long column.
|Thread: micrometer restoration|
A quite good penetrating oil may be made from a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF (Automotive Transmission Fluid)
Mix it up, shake it up and keep adding to the seized component as the acetone evaporates. It may take a long time, but it doe seem to work quite well.
Vibration will help the effect to keep rapping it, sharply, but not to hard.
Lots on the net about it e.g. HERE
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