Here is a list of all the postings peak4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Square center|
Maths obviously isn't the vendor's strong point. He had 5 when I posted, I nabbed one, as did you, and now he's only got 8 left if anyone else wants one.
Seems a good price.
A bit like one of these on ebay you mean?
|Thread: Tail Stock Stud Removal|
OK, so different to the diagram in BobH's link then; that would explain the problem, so don't try just pulling it out then. Unfortunately this forum's software won't let me edit my previous post.
Edited By peak4 on 01/05/2017 12:13:43
I may be missing something blindingly obvious here, but isn't there a second bronze piece below the one in your photo, seen on the underneath of the tailstock casting?
If so, surely tapping the end of the thread downwards will extract both stud and bronze part downwards.
The two brassy coloured bits should be free to move in the hole in order to clamp the tailstock barrel in place.
If it's a blind hole, so the parts won't punch through downwards, straight through the casting, then I guess you need to pull them upwards using a length of tube, a washer and a nut on the end of the stud. Since you've not got much thread to play with, you might need to pack it up several times.
|Thread: C. H. Joyce Drill Press|
On the H&S aspect, the majority of the pulleys wouldn't concern me personally, but unless you're folically challenged, I'd be tempted to arrange a basic curved sheet metal guard for the front of the top pulley.
It might just save getting scalped.
|Thread: Centec 2B power feed|
Has the previous owner dived into the windings to find the star point, and re-wired it as delta?
If so, it would effectively be a 220v motor.
I've got exactly that job to investigate myself when I get more time.
You could have a read of this post and see if you can find out how the OP got on.
Edited By peak4 on 26/04/2017 21:30:14
Edited By peak4 on 26/04/2017 21:30:41
|Thread: Any Chemists (rust)|
Has anyone here tried Evaporust on the inside of motorcycle petrol tanks, prior to sealing them from ethanol attack?
|Thread: U-Profiles from Square Tubing|
Regarding the clamping on the mill, try it without a vice on the table.
Slide a length of square bar down the hole and clamp both end down to the table. I've cut round tube successfully that way, with round bar down the hole of course.
|Thread: P-Power hacksaw|
I do have a 12v 1/4hp motor kicking around somewhere off an old lawnmower, but from what I remember it's a lot larger than a wiper motor, and is also fan cooled.
It might be worth having a quick read of the Lathes.co.uk article on the Kennedy power hacksaw
Tony mentions that the smaller one was fitted with a "Feeble" 1/6 hp motor and the larger one with 1/4 hp motor, so I'd suggest that is probably what you should be aiming for.
The internet suggests a 20A fuse for a Corsa wiper motor, so let's say it runs at 12 to 15A under load, i.e. 144 to 180 watts @ 12v
Now at 750 watt to the hp, it looks like the wiper motor is in the region of 0.19 to 0.24 hp input, so maybe in the right ball park in theory. I have to say that this seems rather on the high side for something that size, and the one that Dave mentioned in the post above claims to have a rated capacity of only 40w
Are you able to measure the current under load?
I may of corsa be a talking a complete balderdash, but I'm sure I'll be corrected.
Edited By peak4 on 16/04/2017 22:08:38
|Thread: This is worth a look|
A fascinating video of rasp making,
|Thread: Soldering gun, not iron.|
Still used pretty extensively in telecomms Mike; I'm pretty sure your internet connection to write that will have gone through a number of wire wrapped joints; (if you've got copper broadband anyway).
I can remember my first wiring job when I joined the GPO involved 100 wire cable in twisted triples and pairs. The guy I was working for wrapped the first colour code's worth and told me to get on and finish the rest.
Some considerable time later, one of his colleagues came up behind me and said words to the effect of " nice neat work, but you've got that colour code reversed."
"No" says I, "it's the same as all the rest"
It was at this point we both realised that the chap who showed me how to start the job couldn't remember his colour codes.
100 wire blocks, at 10 blocks per vertical row, and Ron only arrived as I was completing the last block on vert-3.
That will be 3000 wires to find some slack and re-terminate then; oh how we laughed.
I got quite good at stretching wires over the next couple of weeks.
Edited By peak4 on 12/04/2017 19:50:07
|Thread: Parting off tool|
Thanks Michael, I do appreciate that, I actually use an inverted tool in the rear toolpost of my Myford and also it's Warco clone.
One advantage of that is that the whole slide is lifted against the dovetails, rather than being pressed away from them, which surely helps improves rigidity as well.
I was clearly half asleep when I posted, and was thinking more of using the tool set lower in the toolpost as a shallow grooving tool, rather than for parting off.; then extrapolated to parting without thinking it through.
|Thread: Soldering gun, not iron.|
I believe the solder tracks back up the multi-cored wire and acts as a stress point where it stops, hence the need for strain relief incorporating the outer insulation.
Personally, I think the problem is often too much solder, rather than too little; frequently caused by an iron with too little heat capacity.
That is, one needs to offer the iron to the joint for too long to get it hot enough to melt the solder, thereby heating up too much of the wire, albeit slowly; this allows the solder to track too far up the wire.
It's not just about speed and cost that the highest quality, mil spec, connectors tend to be crimped rather than soldered.
|Thread: Parting off tool|
This might seem a really silly question, but why does the lathe have to run in reverse?
Being entirely self taught, I don't have the benefit of wide and varied training, so I've never seen one of these before.
If the tool was sharpened appropriately, wouldn't it work fine in the normal direction, pulling the tool towards you; that way the swarf, particularly fine brass chips, would naturally fall away from the tool.
Also the load would be towards the iron casting, with the screws just holding the tool in place, as normal, rather than trying to prevent it being pushed downwards past them.
|Thread: How to contact an advertiser?|
You need to log into the forum, then click on "Send Email" in the advert.
I've been in contact with him recently regarding a couple of items which I think were delivered today, going by Hermes Tracking tool anyway; I'm not at home at the moment.
I think Rich is quite busy at the moment, so he may take a while to reply.
|Thread: Cross slide adjusting collar myford super 7|
It's threaded onto the traverse screw, the grub screw and associated copper washer is to lock it in place, to stop it turning.
The threaded collar allows you to adjust the backlash in the screw thread bearing end.
|Thread: Musing About Oils|
A friend of mine use to add a little Castrol R to the petrol tank of his lawnmower as it reminded him of various motorcycle events.
|Thread: Machining a Washer - Procedure|
I made a large stainless washer yesterday, albeit of different dimensions to fit a Belfast sink in the new garage.
Inner was hole cut undersize with normal hole saw in pillar drill running slowly with lube.
Outer diameter was then cut with small hand guillotine oversize. I then place the rough washer in the 3 jaw, in expansion mode, and sized the outer rim, swapped the jaws over, and held the now finished outer in order to bore to size.
In my case the washer was thinner (so I could use a guillotine) and larger, but I've used a similar method by clamping the donor plate to a sheet of plywood and used two different sized holesaws to get the starting annulus, still all done in the bench drill.
Obviously cut the inner hole first, so you can still hold the blank; the drill centre hole in the plywood is enough to guide the bore for the larger hole saw. Just replace the drill bit in the hole saw with a suitably sized length of plain rod to run in the hole in the plywood sheet.
I can't remember what it was for, but I've done similar with 4 or 5mm stainless plate in the past to make something similar to what you're trying to achieve; it would have been a spacer for one of the motorbikes or the Marlin.
|Thread: Turning a finned aluminium cylinder barrel for a motorcycle|
I suspect it's Motorcycle Engineering, though I've never read it as I've never been able to spot a copy at an affordable price.
I think Clymer did a re-print.
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