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Member postings for peak4

Here is a list of all the postings peak4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: MicroAire Reciprocating Saw
19/04/2022 15:16:19
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 19/04/2022 15:06:53:

Thanks, pgk


May I just check … Is ‘veterinary instrumentation’ a company name ?


Yes it would appear to be, and not too far away; LINK


Thread: Electromagnetic Wave Interference
18/04/2022 13:43:51
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 18/04/2022 13:23:22:
Posted by not done it yet on 18/04/2022 13:16:45:

I’ve no idea what a “kit” might include. […]


The items shown on this page would appear to fit the description “kit”


“ … for you to build into your own system.”


Indeed, and a dialogue with Newton Tesla, who I've found to be most helpful, would seem more appropriate than sending it back as not fit for purpose.
This is particularly so, as they also advertise a fully pre-wired kit, which they state is "EMC / CE Compliant. Designed and manufactured here in the UK."
I have one of these on my Warco 720 (Myford S7 clone) and it works well; I've not noticed any interference on other kit or the radio.


Thread: condensation
12/04/2022 23:24:23
Posted by Stephen Follows on 12/04/2022 23:06:08:

Like the light bulb idea but don't think incandescent lamps are sold now....

They still are, but so are vivarium and home brewing heaters, both of which often

have the advantage of built in thermostats.


Thread: M&W Microstat Micrometer
11/04/2022 21:38:06

There's a thread or two on Vintage Radio Net about them if anyone's interested.
This is one of the longer ones.


11/04/2022 21:35:59

Thanks Andy, it's not that the on/off switch is special; it's just a conventional microswitch, with the NO terminal cut off.
It seems to work differently on the LED versions, as opposed to the LCD ones though, which is why I posed the question.
On the LED one, it only charges with the switch "off" i.e. to the left.
This depresses the microswitch's NC contact, and seems to disconnect the measuring electronics/display, but allows charging. It's a 4.8v cell stack, and the micrometer can be used with a flat battery with the PSU, provided it's turned on of course, but the battery won't re-charge when the device is in use.
The LCD one only seems to charge its 3.6v battery with the switch on as far as I can tell, but the battery discharges even when the micrometer is switched off.

There is a warning in the LED manual, and also on the end of a different LCD model to mine, that the device should never be powered up without a battery fitted, as it can lead to the electronics being damaged.
My LCD one was demonstrated as working OK on ebay by being shown plugged in, but without a battery fitted, so I'm trying to suss out if it's caused a problem. (The battery, end cap and battery contacts were all missing, but I knew that when I bought it)

The LED one uses a 5v supply and the LCD one a 9v wall wart, but since they are old tech, the off-load voltage is a lot higher in both cases, which I guess is what might cause damage.
For the 9v one I've replaced it with a PSU from an old BT home hub, which is regulated (switch mode??) and supplies a stable 9v, regardless of load.

Also, yes, I'm guessing that the "C" button is for a serial digital output, as there is a 6 way connector as the charging port, though I only have a 2 pin plug for it.
This is part of the reason I'm trying to track down a manual.

My LED ones are M&W, the LCD is branded CADAR, but has a DigitalMicrometersltd sticker as well.

Cheers for the assistance

10/04/2022 13:51:10

Another query for the hive mind.
Does anyone have a "Microstat" micrometer, or a manual for one please?
This is the later version with the LCD, rather than LED screen and three buttons on the front.
I picked one up a while ago, and I'm struggling to work out how the on/off button is designed to operate.

This might sound odd for a simple switch; it's a sliding button, which also acts as a momentary press on the microswitch underneath, depending on its position.

I'm familiar with the LED Micro 2000 operation, and have a manual; it charges in the Off position, and works off the battery or charger in the On position, whilst a momentary press sets zero. (The microswitch only uses two contacts)

The LCD "Microstat" that I have only seems to charge in the On position, but the battery still discharges when Off. Someone has obviously been working inside it previously, and I wonder of they have done something odd.
The momentary press doesn't zero it, though the Z button does.

I do have contacts with "Digital Micrometers Ltd" in Sheffield, but I don't want to hassle them at this stage. They were most helpful when I had a query on my Micro 2000, but I'd rather not trouble them more than needed.

Cheers Bill

Thread: Imperial v Metric Measures
09/04/2022 11:38:57

I know I've posted this before, but it's still worth a re-read of "Which Inch" 6 pages

There's a rather longer treatise here; "A chronological history of the modern metric system (to 2008)" 142 pages

Now don't get me started on the volume of a gallon. devil


Thread: Optimum Milling Machines
05/04/2022 01:34:13

I knew Stefan Gotteswinter had done a video on one a few years ago, so just looked for it to provide a link here.
It seems he's done a more recent follow-up 6 years on.
I've not watched it myself yet, but it may be of interest.
His earlier video is also still available too.


Edited By peak4 on 05/04/2022 01:34:41

Thread: Holding taps in a drill press
03/04/2022 22:16:29

In with my tapping stuff, I gave a few round metal bars.
Each has a taper on one end, and a centre drilling on the other.
If I've drilled the hole to be tapped on the bench drill, I just clamp the workpiece down, then put one of the bars in the drill chuck.
The tap goes in a conventional holder, but the top end is located, either by the taper, or the centre drilling, depending on the tap design.
I normally just apply pressure with my right hand on the drill press lever, and turn the tap one handed, or may use a weight on the drill handle; even a bungee cord on the lever will apply suitable pressure to keep the tap in-line.
If I haven't drilled the hole on the machine, or there's lots of holes, the pointy end of the bar will locate the workpiece, and proceed as before.


Thread: Yet another AT1 VFD question!
02/04/2022 22:21:59

Glad it's not just me that's struggling with this one.
I can't get E-Stop to work either, and tried it with various X posts, and both NO & NC switches.

At the moment I'm using momentary NO push buttons for start/stop, and a latching toggle for reverse, with all parameters at default except;

P10 - 2 External Speed
P11 - 2 External on/off
P50 - 3 X1 Start
P51 - 4 X2 Stop
P52 - 5 X3 Reverse
P25 - 1 1425 rpm

I've tried playing with P58 and P50 for E-Stop and failed there
P53 - 19 doesn't work either for E-Stop.

In my case, I don't need jog at the moment, as it's for a tapping machine (Reverse, is in case I ever need to do any left hand tapping.


Thread: Why aren't carbide chop saws used?
31/03/2022 12:08:00

Before I retired from BT I/we used to use a DeWalt steel cutting chop saw for cutting our ironwork to size.

Mainly it was used on thin section Unistrut, and thus needed a finer blade than standard; TCT blades are not cheap compared to those for the 6"x4" bandsaw we also used.
I did however use it for cutting heavy(ish) angle iron sections. These were about 3"x3½"x3/8" which it chopped quite happily.

A couple of times I took in something of my own to cut; it was quite comfortable with 2" diameter bar.

Some folk claim it's a cool cutting saw; it doesn't shower sparks like an abrasive wheel saw, but does emit a stream of blue metal chips, as well as a lot of noise.


Thread: new member
27/03/2022 16:31:07

Hello and welcome fellow bike fettler.
It often helps others to help you, if you give a rough location of where you are.


Thread: A sticky Mercer Gauge
20/03/2022 18:48:49

Looking at your photo, the bottom blackened screw seems to be in a slot, and maybe even the top left hand one.
Does the whole of the white plate move slightly to adjust the engagement between rack and pinion?
I have one which was sticky when it came to me; it looked like it had taken a knock, such that the rack and pinion were too heavily engaged and thus jamming,


Thread: Herke Tapping Machine
20/03/2022 12:21:31
Posted by Baz on 20/03/2022 09:36:28:

I have owned a Herke tapper for 30 years and never seen any manual or instructions apart from what is on Lathes UK site. To be honest you don’t need a manual to strip one of these machines down, just a couple of punches to get the taper pins out of the clutch plates. Is your clutch slipping or are you being too gentle with it? It is quite surprising the amount of pressure required, they need a good heavy pressure throughout the stroke. If you are convinced your clutch is slipping a squirt of brake cleaner will help.

Cheers for that, I was just wondering of there were any helpful hints on using, rather than stripping it.
Also I'm not sure what the clutch friction material is, as I've not had anything apart yet, so didn't want to risk damaging it with brake cleaner, though I was using some to de-gunge the internals a bit.
Pretty sure the clutch is slipping, in one direction at least, as I couldn't get enough drive to unscrew the tap.

I've noticed that there is what looks to be a small tension spring on a threaded adjuster to hold the arm up, as well as the compression spring around the spindle.
This was missing on mine, but I'm assuming it's to help holding the actuating arm at the correct height when you're not actually tapping.
Is it intended that the arm should be horizontal, or towards the top of it's slot on the front?
I've found a spring in my spares box, but I'm not sure it's strong enough, as it barely supports the arm half way up the slot.


Thread: Machinist level
19/03/2022 23:31:36

Steve, see issue 33 of MEW, P27 et seq. "Playing With Spirits", where Bill Morris describes making your own vials.

I'll not reproduce it here for the obvious copyright reasons.


Thread: Herke Tapping Machine
19/03/2022 22:12:05

I picked up a No1 Mk2 Herke Tapping Machine a couple of days ago, and am in the process of re-commissioning it at the moment.

Does anyone have a manual/instructions please?

I don't seem to be getting quite enough friction in the clutches at the moment.
The previous owner was using it for M3 taps, which I'm sure would be OK, but it struggles to drive an M5 one, though the capacity should be up to about M7.

I'm using a new spiral flute machine tap.


Thread: A sticky Mercer Gauge
18/03/2022 12:16:10

I've picked up several sticky ones over the years, and thus far, all have freed up with lighter fuel to wash out the gunge.
A tiny drop of thin non-drying oil to the rack inside, and then cleaning off even that from the plunger, do it doesn't attract dust in my mixed workshop.
I've use horologists oil, but also Balistol Universal Oil, which works well for all sorts of jobs.


Thread: Another mystery object
17/03/2022 09:23:12

Here you go folk, one from my bookmarks; The Saw Set Collectors Resource


Thread: Machinist level
16/03/2022 20:31:54

A good few years ago now, I recall an article in either MEW or ME on someone who ground their own vial.
Might be worth a search through the various index.

Also I've used these folk in the past, but for button level vials.
It's not obvious that they sell different vials, but they were friendly and helpful when I dropped in one day.
They may have changed their business model of course, and no longer sell those sort of spares to the public.


Thread: Is this a record fuel price ?
15/03/2022 21:34:18
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 15/03/2022 20:14:32:

I paid a surprisingly large bill today, for fixing a sticking handbrake sad

… But they say that every cloud has a silver lining, and hopefully the improved fuel consumption will soon offset that angel


Be glad you don't have a Range Rover;
"The priciest electronic parking brake repair cost on MotorEasy records is a £2,005 bill to fix the system in a 10-year-old Range Rover."


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