|Thread: Southern Boiler Works Theft|
Keep your eyes peeled folks, just come across this on Facebook; it appears to be a targeted theft.
For those of you with Facebook accounts, Here's The Link.
|Thread: Stuck oil filter|
Posted by Dave Halford on 09/07/2020 12:34:28
It was something of a quick post.
It's best done with bare cast iron when cold, the water soaks into the iron a little so it's very obvious which one is cooler, it takes about 5 sec longer to dry.
Tubular manifolds don't matter and they dry so fast it takes several wettings to spot the offender.
Or use a non-contact infra red thermometer.
Quite good for working out which brake is binding too.
|Thread: Cutting oil ( Suds) resistant paint|
I was watching this video a while ago, where "automotive car paint" is used by a professional machine rebuilder.
From 18.40 but the whole video is worth a watch; as is most of that channel.
|Thread: micro switch|
Posted by Ian Parkin on 01/07/2020 20:54:51
they are fitted in this piece of av equipment
and theres 7 of them fitted in each one
made in Germany in the 70’s and 80’s by kodak
its really tricky to retrofit new styles of switch
but as i said they all seem to lose the spring
they only carrying small currents at 24v
Maybe use a short length of clock mainspring with a couple of holes either punched or drilled through in a simple jig.
|Thread: Inserted cross slide feed nuts|
You mention a load of crud in the recess; are you sure the insert wasn't pulled in rather than pressed.
i.e. a bit like a top hat bush, with the grub screw just to prevent subsequent rotation??
Maybe screw in the leadscrew itself, almost all the way, and tap the end with a suitable hammer and a bit of copper to protect the screw end.
Edited By peak4 on 24/06/2020 10:59:31
|Thread: Making Parallels|
Posted by not done it yet on 21/06/2020 11:19:00
Bearing outer races are good as ‘button’ spacers.
So are inner races. I use both for squaring short items in 3 and 4 jaw chucks, rather than using straight parallels.
Just select one a bit smaller diameter than the workpiece and wrap it in self-adhesive window draught excluder; the foam stuff on a roll.
That way you can leave it in place, and it doesn't rattle whilst you're machining.
|Thread: Measuring wear on a surface grinder|
Certainly look in a lot better nick than my little Herbert Junior when it arrived.
i don't know if you have a Facebook account , but there's an ongoing album here, which should be set to public viewing, each photo has a basic description of what I'm up to.
Eventually I'll duplicate the album to Flickr, and add some of the content on this forum, but obviously not on your thread.
The column itself was slightly bowed, as well as the main dovetails showing wear in the middles, so the knee rocked in two different dimensions.
The table showed the same banana tendencies, as do the cross slideways.
I could maybe have used it to grind a lens, thou it may not have been optically very good.
|Thread: record no 22 vice jaw replacement|
Posted by larry phelan 1 on 15/06/2020 18:51:05
Needless to say, they have not been replaced, and yes, those screws are very difficult to remove. I often wondered if Allen screws would not be a better idea ? However, still have to get the old ones out !
Larry, do you have any impact driver bits or similar. If not, you could always make one.
Slide a ring spanner over the bit, engage it in the screw head, and tighten up the vice jaws to hold it in place; firmly but don't swing on the handle.
The opposing jaw will (hopefully) keep the bit engaged, to save it rounding the screw slot.
Apply pressure, or a mallet to the spanner, remembering of course which direction the bit is facing.
|Thread: Another mystery tool|
I don't know its designed purpose, but I use something similar but smaller for setting the blades in the block on my woodworking planer thicknesser.
It's interesting in that it had ground feet on both sides, unlike mine, so I'm guessing neither a flatness nor a thickness gauge.
|Thread: record no 22 vice jaw replacement|
Try messaging industry65 on ebay.
I know he makes vice jaws to order out of heat treated tool steel, but have no idea on prices or turnround time, particularly if delayed due to lockdown etc..
|Thread: Stent T&C Refurb (also need Wiring Help)|
I wired my Quorn with a DPDT toggle for forward/reverse, and a cheap NVR switch from ebay for stop start.
Because I move the grinder around, I also used a kettle socket and detachable lead, to save tripping myself up when I get old and doddery.
It also means it's likely to unplug the lead if I accidentally catch it on something, rather than dragging the grinder off the bench.
This makes it a particularly good idea to use an NVR switch to save accidental re-starts.
It also helps avoid trying to reverse the motor by accident when it is still spinning down, which is the danger with a centre off toggle.
|Thread: Mild Steel Rod in Metric Sizes|
Is there a model engineering society local to you?
I can't assist, as I'm in Buxton, but you might well find someone local who would drop something off for you from their local stockholder.
Fortunately I'm close to Sheffield, so it's not a problem form me, but I know I'd be happy to pick something up on someone's behalf round here.
My preferred supplier list metric BDMS rounds in 5,6,7,9,10, 12-18, 20,22,25,28,30,etc, up to 170mm though not all sizes in all grades.
Most of the obvious gaps are filled by approximate imperial equivalents.
i.e. no 19mm listed, but they carry ¾"
Edited By peak4 on 15/06/2020 00:09:50
|Thread: Drilling HSS|
I'm sure you could use a conventional solid carbide bit, but they are rather expensive.
How about a solid carbide spotting drill which often appear on ebay at reasonable prices?
I've actually got an (out of commission) Manchester Rapidor Minor, which takes 9" blades.
I use the carbide tipped drill bits, often obtainable at model engineering shows, from the chap who demonstrates drilling files etc.
They worked fine, provided you clamp the blade tightly to a piece of sacrificial steel to save any problems when it breaks through.
I've also used conventional masonry bits, touched up to be sharp on a diamond wheel.
I found high speed, no lube, and plenty of pressure worked best, but make the sacrificial steel a reasonable size to act as a heat sink, to save melting the brazing.
|Thread: Drill sharpening?|
Posted by Bo'sun on 11/06/2020 11:30:58
I've got a "Picador" style drill sharpener, .........................
Hello Bo'sun, there's a difference between a Picador and a "Picador Style" jig, which is down to more than the quality of the castings etc.
The geometry is different as well; a genuine Picador seems to work reasonably OK out of the box, but search out an article by Graham Meek on improvements to the non-genuine ones.
The Sealey SMS2008 isn't bad after a bit of fine tuning to the wheel position, though I still sometimes struggle with drills smaller than about ¼".
For a swinging jig "Picador" style but made of cast iron, keep an eye open for a Reliance jig on ebay or elsewhere. Similar in operation, though without the location detent for setting the cutting edge.
See also This Thread, and the one linked to in my first post.
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 07/06/2020 15:57:42
Posted by Raymond Griffin on 07/06/2020 13:53:46
I am having trouble deciding how to present these.
Your presentation is absolutely fine, Raymond ... and the images are astonishing
Anyone with an interest in Stereo should be quite capable of pairing them to suit personal preference.
I don't know how others see these, but I always see 3 images, with the centre one being in 3D
I was struggling to work out how to easily view vertically stacked ones in a forum thread on a PC screen.
It's only just dawned on me that I could use my second screen.
That one's set up in vertical/portrait format. I can just drag or copy this tab over to the other screen, and then swivel it back to landscape.
Unlike a phone, there's no auto sensor, so is shows the forum displayed at 90°.
I can't read the text easily, but the 3D image pops out beautifully.
It rather remind me of tales about my Mum years ago, when she was working at the local TSB to prepare for decimalisation.
She'd been getting headaches, which was eventually diagnosed as being due to a lazy eye, so she was given some eye exercises to complete. One of these was two partially drawn rabbit images, that she had to stare at until the popped into a single complete rabbit. (the picture was really designed for kids).
From a colleague taking the mick; - Which one of the two little bunnies are you looking at today Dorothy?
Mum, without really thinking - The middle one of course.
Much laughs and they still let her count the money.
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 07/06/2020 09:54:59
Having mentioned the Minolta Achromatic close-up lenses
Here is a copy of the instruction leaflet: **LINK**
... useful for general reference.
This page is worth bookmarking as well re. supplementary macro lenses
I've a couple of Sigma ones.
|Thread: Machine moving|
Steve collected and delivered my Warco GH1330 from Scunthorpe, and delivered very professionally to Buxton.
He thus comes highly recommended from me too.
Arrival, Steve's the less hairy one.
Steve left it just inside the garage for me to fit the feet etc and I moved it into the final position myself the following day next to its baby brother, a Warco 720; a 1970s copy of a Super 7.
The garage now looks rather more full
|Thread: stuck chuck again|
Try the following, bind the two halves of the headstock V belt together to lock the spindle, after making sure you have normal drive, rather than backgear engaged.
If it's a 3 jaw tighten a large allen key in the chuck with the long side extending towards you and smack the nearest end of it with a hammer sharply.
Alternatively, if no large allen keys, a large diameter piece of hex bar and suitable spanner to fit.
A similar arrangement can be set up for a 4 jaw, or use a length of square bar across the face of the chuck and held by all 4 jaws.
Edited By peak4 on 05/06/2020 12:27:57
|Thread: Surface Plate & Height Gauge recommendations|
Posted by Barrie Lever on 04/06/2020 16:50:18
Take a look at this video, I think you will like it, not a perfect approach but a practical solution, Don Baileys videos are really great IMO
Have you got an indicator like is being used in the video?
Edited By Barrie Lever on 04/06/2020 16:51:35
I saw that video a while ago and used the same method to check out my piece of black granite worktop, hoping I could use it for scraping in some parts of a surface grinder.
Unfortunately it has dips of about 5 and 10 thou as well as ripples, and drops off at some sides, though it looks OK at first glance.
I did try a sheet of 6mm float glass on top to even out the dips, but found that heavy objects just bent the glass.
Next try was to make layered shims out of baco foil, but that didn't really work either.
I've now kept that for use as a clean surface on the bench and picked up a used 24" square cast iron plate locally.
This has a minor bit of rust staining, but for the most part, the original scraping marks are present.
Had I not found an affordable plate locally, the next plan was to use a different piece of unpolished quarztite worktop, and add some plaster to the top surface of it; whilst still wet, top it off with the piece of float glass, which would then be substantially supported and pretty flat. The trouble was, that I think the piece of new glass was actually warped by several thou because of the way it had been stored at the window shop prior to delivery.
The first job for the proper cast iron one was to scrape in the top surface of the main table, so I can use that as a portable surface plate to scrape in the main column.
Never really tried scraping before, and I'm very slow and not exactly good at it, but getting there eventually.
Stuart's Blue is the new woad for 2020.
|Thread: Run capacitor value .Bench grinder|
I've used this ebay company in the past and had quick delivery; You could always contact them and ask for 1st class post, rather than 2nd class, or the £7 option.
They list a CBB61, the small flat one, as opposed to a CBB60, the larger round one.