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Member postings for peak4

Here is a list of all the postings peak4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: magic 127 TOOTH ?
12/01/2020 02:22:03

Broadly speaking, the length of the metre (meter) hasn't changed, unlike the inch, though the means of defining it has been updated over the years.

Perhaps the best explanation I've seen is HERE

Sorry to the folks over the pond, but it seems the US inch is actually metric. devil

Bill

Thread: Magnetic chucks
10/01/2020 19:00:50
Posted by KWIL on 10/01/2020 15:56:20:

! I think I will pass on that one, thanks for the offer to haggle.

K

There's a couple on ebay at the moment, one of which is in Hampshire, so maybe saving on the postage.

For small workpieces, I surround them with M12 thick repair washers; seem to hold well enough and with light cuts, things stay in place OK.

Bill

Thread: Electric welder at Lidl
10/01/2020 18:49:49
Posted by Ian Parkin on 10/01/2020 17:40:40:

Well those photos are of a plasma cutter

There's a couple of videos available showing the use of the item in the photo ( a couple are of the A1 model, rather than B2)
I guess I'll have to keep tabs on Lidl's website and see what arrives on the shelves.
Unfortunately since moving away from Sheffield, my nearest store is in Leek.

I'll have to think about whether I could use an un-welder. devil

Bill

Thread: Magnetic chucks
10/01/2020 12:26:51

I guess it depends on cost really; there's a couple on ebay at the moment to give you a guide.
I have one on a Myford backplate and do use it occasionally, mainly for thinning or truing washers (or at least things that shape anyway).
Mine came a few years ago for £40.

I also bought a Meddings high speed drill, where the previous owner (a well respected model engineer) added a backplate to an imported one so it could be used as a table. Handy for making repeat parts, as the vice can easily be positioned and locked down with something else as a workpiece stop/locator. Say a 1-2-3 block with a threaded stud sticking out.

The genuine Eclipse one is thinner and has more holding power than the Chinese import one. I'd be very careful using the imported on on a lathe.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 10/01/2020 12:27:42

Thread: First Myford question. hopefully not too stupid
09/01/2020 15:06:22

Hello and welcome, No question is stupid, just beware of some of the answers (especially from me wink  ) 

Just been out for a quick look at mine.
In my case the little lever is firmly attached to the cam; I've never had reason to remove it, but there is no obvious means to secure it either. From that I guess interference fit, Loctite, or centre punched from the other end of the hole.
That said, I can'e see any signs of a centre punch mark, so I think I'd use Loctite myself.
Bill

 

Edited By peak4 on 09/01/2020 15:06:40

Thread: Weight and transportability of a Myford lathe
07/01/2020 23:37:33

I've just moved my S7, but went about it a different way.
I'm using a link drive belt in the headstock, which made life easier.

Split the belt, and remove the belt cover.
Disconnect motor from the connection strip at the back, noting which wires connect where.
The whole casting which supports the motor, countershaft, clutch, and primary belt guards can be removed as one unit.
There's 4 horizontal bolts into the headstock casting, and one captive stud at the bottom.
slacken the nut a bit on the latter, and remove the four bolts; I did add a wooden block and wedge to support the motor, to save breaking the casting around the single stud.
The whole assembly can then be removed as one unit; easier than one might imagine as the location point for the fixed stud is slotted, to the casting can just be lifted straight up.
That then leaves you with the bed in reasonable balance when you undo the four nuts which fix it to the base.

It struck me that there was far less chance of it overbalancing that way.

Bill

Thread: Gluing glass
07/01/2020 12:34:34

A couple of days late to the party, but I've just had one of those annoying ads pop up in my Facebook feed.
Some miraculous glue for mending car windscreens and phone screens etc.
Specially reduced from £30+ to a tenner, from a firm which may or may not exist.

However, plugging a few similar words into ebay came up with this stuff for rather less.
At £3.85 delivered, I might just try one to keep in stock.

Bill

Thread: Stuck Chuck
07/01/2020 11:47:42

I might be missing something blindingly obvious here.
If the adaptor essentially replicates the nose thread of the headstock spindle, presumably is just screws in to the chuck from the back.
That being the case, if you hold the chuck in a vice, or strap wrench if you're at the kitchen table, then you need to turn the screw clockwise to release it. (looking from the chuck jaws inwards).
I only mention this, as twisting the wrong way is just the sort of thing i'd do if I was tired.
This would particularly be the case if I'd just been involved with removing a drill chuck securing screw from inside one of those.
blush

Bill

 

Edited By peak4 on 07/01/2020 11:49:51

Thread: Ebay being clogged up by certain sellers
06/01/2020 15:11:01
Posted by Mark Rand on 06/01/2020 14:42:21:

Yesterday I was looking to see if I could get some 440C stainless steel flat bar for a kitchen related project. All I could find in the UK was round bar. When I looked on EBay, there were a small number of sellers listing flat bar. All were Chinese. I guess they'll get the order when I get around to the job.

MetalSupermarket maybe??

Bill

06/01/2020 00:26:36

Old Mart, what was it you were searching for?

I do appreciate the problem as sometimes when I seek a particular item, one seller includes dozens or even hundreds of the same item.

i.e. I look for a generic item for my motorcycle and one particular product is listed dozens of times by the same seller as xxxxx-Honda, xxxxx-Honda CB250, xxxx-Honda Xl500 etc etc. It takes forever to scroll past to find the next vendor selling a different product.

Bill

Thread: Simple Gearing for Metric Threads on Myford ML7 lathes with gearboxes
01/01/2020 11:47:24

Cheers Rod, too late last night to go out and take a photo; Steven, just make sure you select the correct orientation for the larger drive gear, just out of shot in Rod's photo. That swaps between fine feed and screwcutting.

Bill

31/12/2019 22:18:30

Below the tufnol pair, there is a cople of gears together on the dame spindle, held on by (I think) a screw.
The outer one of these is on a keyed stub. That's the driver gear.

Bill

31/12/2019 21:02:15
Posted by Phil super7 on 31/12/2019 20:35:13:

You just need 34 & 33 Teeth Gears , then follow the chart for gearbox settings.These Gears fit onto the Tumbler or (Chart says Mandrel) the same thing, Hope this helps

Here You Go, available from Myford

Bill

Thread: Win10
31/12/2019 12:11:06
Posted by Colin Heseltine on 31/12/2019 11:39:06:

......................

Biggest surprise was not being asked for a licence number. ............................................

Colin

Colin, related to what I mentioned previously, Your W7 installation was valid on the Microsoft authentication servers (however they work). They will still recognise your upgrade, even though the free period has apparently elapsed.
Your new COA, or Digital Licence number, is different to your old W7 one, and can be extracted using the Nirsoft link I mentioned earlier.
If you need to reinstall W10, then you're unlikely to be asked for the new number as it's done over the internet, where you will be asked to log into your Microsoft account to re-authenticate.
If you later decide that this PC will not be connected to the internet, you will need that number for a re-install.

When my old MOBO died recently, I was even able to re-authenticate the installation on the new different MOBO

Bill

Thread: Shaper in action
30/12/2019 22:08:06

There's been a few times when I wish my little Boxford shaper was a bit bigger.
I wonder what this chap normally makes with his. wink

Bill

Thread: Archiving old data
25/12/2019 15:44:19

I guess two separate hard drives from different manufacturers, stored with care in two different places.
As the new technology comes along to replace HDDs, transfer the data onto that as well.
I can remember a friend of mine storing stuff on video disks, and then a few years later couldn't retrieve it, a bit like Betamax etc.

Bill

Thread: All I want for Christmas ...
24/12/2019 12:41:57
Posted by Martin King 2 on 24/12/2019 12:21:55:

John F, I got a TROJAN alert on that link? sad

Martin

Martin, it passes Avast OK on my PC.

A very fine sculptor, in two senses of the word.
I saw him at Harrogate and then again at an exhibition in Sheffield a few years ago.

Well worth seeking out if you're near an exhibition.
Bill

Thread: Myford bed twist
23/12/2019 18:23:35

Personally, I'd use a bit of bar held in the chuck and turned to a 60° taper.

That way it's guaranteed to be concentric with the spindle rotation. Keep it, but re-turn the taper each time you re-mount it.
It does leave more overhang from the headstock, but this might be an advantage as none of the saddle will be overlapping the gap part of the gap-bed. Also it provides a drive dog for your right angled driver; that is you use one of the jaws to drive the workpiece when turning between centres.
Also depending on the length and shape of the workpiece, swapping between 3 and 4 jaw chucks allows you to move the actual point of the home made centre along the lathe bed a bit. (Myford independent 4 jaws are often shorter than 3 jaw self centring chucks.)

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 23/12/2019 18:25:13

23/12/2019 11:53:53

I would suggest that the point of the tailstock centre isn't quite central.

Several possible reasons, tailstock itself not central, barrel wear allowing clamp to offset barrel in tailstock casting, a bit of debris in the morse taper bore, or between tailstock and bed tilting it over, slightly bent running centre spindle; I'm sure there are others.

How to find out which is harder;
Maybe the following. Do you have a dial gauge? if so set it up in the toolholder.

Edit, Sorry just realised you are using a chuck at the headstock end;
You already have a long bar which appears to be tapered, so zero the clock on that bar, at the headstock end on a portion you have just turned to size (any size).

Try turning a bar between centres and see if the error repeats. If so then move carriage to tailstock end observing the clock; since you've already turned the bar between centres, using those settings, the needle should barely move.
Leaving the same settings on the toolpost, reverse your workpiece; I presume the clock will now give a different reading due to the different diameter. Keep the same settings and investigate how each of the above causes a change in that reading.
i.e. loosen and tighten tailstock clamp, barrel clamp, slightly rotate running centre body, and then full 180° etc.
Replace running centre with a plain one, clean taper etc. This should hopefully point to where the tailstock centre offset is being generated.

Further to that, if nothing immediately shows, then the tailstock casting centre line might be off, which is adjustable as you know. If there is a need to make a new bar perfectly parallel, and the same length, then you already have the correct setting on your clock gauge. Using the tailstock offset screws adjust it so the clock reads zero.
This should be repeatable for your new workpiece, but perhaps only for this exact length.
 

Alternatively if you need various pieces, you could always use an MT2 boring head with a centre in it, so you can dial in an offset, much like turning a taper; in this case it's just a parallel taper. wink

In my case I made a dead centre for the boring head using a broken carbide centre drill.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 23/12/2019 12:02:55

Edited By peak4 on 23/12/2019 12:07:24

Thread: Win10
22/12/2019 20:15:55

There will be any number of security products available to provide a level of protection on a W7 installation, even though it will no longer be supported by Microsoft; e.g. Avast, AVG, MalwareBytes etc. These are likely to continue with their support for W7, as they are still able to make money out of it.

If however you'd like to update to W10, even though the free period has supposedly expired, I pointed a friend to this method a few months ago. I saw him the other day, when he confirmed all was still OK

Depending on whether this is your main PC or a secondary one, and how much you want to play, it should be possible to come up with a dual boot system of W7 + W10

One method which springs to mind, although slightly convoluted.

Make a full system image of your W7 installation; probably not a bad idea anyway.
upgrade to W10 using the method I linked to earlier.
Use Nirsoft Produkey to find the new W10 COA number, which will now be registered with Microsoft legitimately
Restore your W7 image, and download W10 as a normal bootable ISO, installing it as dual boot; when it asks for the registration number, use the one you previously extracted via Nirsoft.

Another possibility, and I don't know if it would work, is after the upgrade, you used to get something like 30 days to reject it and continue with your earlier Windows install.
Extract new W10 COA number using Nirsoft, reject W10, as you seem to have done previously, and then download the W10 installation USB image.
Install as dual boot, again inputting the Nirsoft extracted number for registration.

Bill

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