Since the jaws are hardened, it would seem odd that one slip would take that much off a jaw.
On the other hand, since the jaws are hardened , could jaws 1 & 3 have picked up a bit from the workpiece and made them high, rather than jaw 2 being low?
Maybe a gentle wipe with a fine curved stone slip would cure the problem.
If you really want the machine, and are able and willing to contemplate the repairs, then I think I'd be directly in contact with the insurers, but in writing/e-mail, not just verbally.
It may be that you can repair it yourself and charge for your time, but I'm guessing that any commercial repairs on an older machine like that would probably right it off commercially. Broken handles etc can be sorted easily, less so broken castings, unless they are non critical to machining accuracy.
That might be a good starting point for you to buy it for scrap value and repair it yourself. If it's the one off ebay, there's a few extras with it, which are probably worth a reasonable amount on their own if you have need for them; or they could be cleaned up and sold on to help fund repairs.
Also, If you do have it delivered, be ready with a camera, and take detailed photos of the machine from all angles whilst it is still on the delivery wagon.
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| two half length strips on the right
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| one full length on the left.
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| Same plan for the opposite side
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| which would save having the
| +12v two windows in series.
It would effectively double the heater length per window.
From what I can see, if it's half the length of recommended, you will end up with twice the current for obvious reasons, as mentioned above, one way would be to follow the instructions , but wire the two windows in series.
Assuming your concern relates to width rather than height, that is a shorter heating strip drawing too much current;
I think I'd approach it differently, at least investigating an alternative method; the kits seem to have 0v on one vertical rail and +12v on the other, so one connector each side of the window.
I'd look at running both wires to the same side and split one connector bar in half. Stick that to one side, and the full length one to the other.
Use half the heating elements at the top and the other half to the bottom of the split connector bar, and all commoned together at the other end on the full length bar.
That way, you effectively have two smaller windows wired in series on each side.
No idea where you live Lee, but if near Preston I'd seriously consider this old Aquavac on ebay
I have a couple, one in each garage, wet and dry, and seem to go on for ever, albeit noisily.
I bought mine prior to buying my previous house, so early 80s and picked up another when my friend closed down his Landrover workshop, where it was in use commercially from late 80s till I guess 2010
Both are battered, but still work well.
I use one of them coupled up to my small blast cabinet, running via a small cast alloy centrifugal cleaner, also off ebay, which spins out the used abrasive quite effectively. You would need a larger size for wood chips, unless it was just from a saw or router bench.
I see other folk have been posting whilst I've been playing with a camera.
I also have the one Clarkson adaptor, shown here in my album of Milling cutter chucks to give a feeling for size.
I do sometimes use it in an ER25 chuck as it's less bulky than either my Clarkson or Tiitanic milling chucks, so sometimes allows easier access to the work in hand.
Amongst my other bits and bobs, I have a Quorn grinder, so I made an arbor for that, but rather than taking a wheel directly, it duplicates the collet chuck on one of my die grinders.
This allows me to use mounted points in the Quorn, the two collets being ¼" and 6mm.
I've not used it for much yet, but the idea was that I could use the Quorn head on the lathe as a toolpost grinder, with mounted points for internal work.
There's no reason why something similar couldn't be constructed with a parallel shank along the lines of the top one in the image, but shorter and slimmer.
I made the long one at the same time whilst I was set up for the smaller arbor, so I could use it for holding FC3 cutters for re-sharpening in the Quorn on a conventional wheel. My ER collet chuck is a 25, so the whole assembly is quite chunky for small grinding jobs, hence adding this one.
The official Clarkson 6mm one is shown lower right for scale.
If anyone has a need for 6mm thin wall stainless, of unknown grade, Aldi are currently offering kitchen sink drainer mats for a fiver.
18 lengths of 6mm tube 500mm long all held together with a strip of silicon rubber caps, which would cut down for other purposes.
They are also selling some bent stainless drinking straws for three quid.
I do have a couple of those somewhere, but never been that impressed with them.
Cromna ones however, whilst no longer made, really do work well; they grip rusty and rounded fasteners, as well as round bar if used carefully. Available in sizes 1-4.
I've not reproduced the photos here to save clogging up the forum storage, but there's a few either side of that photo in my flickr album.
There's also a few extra ones in my Facebook album if you have access to that particular social media.
I'd suggest it's broadly useful to have a flat side as you can scrape it even more flat and use it for checking other parts with some Micrometer Blue.
That of course doesn't preclude you drilling and/or tapping, as appropriate, for other fixings as well.
You could line the drawers with VCI rust inhibitor paper.
I've done this with most of my mini Bisley filing cabinet drawers; it's a bit slippery though, so I added a layer of non-slip carpet mesh from Ikea.
I've just been having a quick look to try and find a couple of comparative images that show both the advantages and disadvantages of stacking in camera.
The actual images are a bit better than they show up here, as I've compressed them quite a lot for this forum.
The first is of a Common Darter ♀ taken with just a single image focused on the eye; as well as I could anyway.
None of the wing tips are in focus, but I managed to get about parallel to the body for the top shot;
EM-1 Mk2 300mm@F5.6 ISO800 1/2500sec (seems odd settings, but I was out to try and catch one in flight when this individual landed)
Below is the same dragon after it had moved onto a post; same camera/lens/aperture/distance, but an in-camera stack of 8 images, differential would probably have been 4, 5 or 6; I can't remember.
Much more of it in focus, but even with a fast burst at something like 30FPS, you can see the blurring of the tail end where it moved, giving a bit of ghosting, similarly with one of the wings.
exif claims subject distance is 1.8m and using that in DOF calculator mentioned earlier gives a DOF of 1 cm, which ties up about right for the top photo.
The actual wingspan of these is about 6cm wingtip to wingtip, measured from my Field Studies Council life size fold-out guide.
I could probably have done better (as always) had I set the camera to a stack of 15, and a slightly lower focus differential, but I just used what I already had programmed into a button ready to go.
These were taken in August at Taddington Mere, just up the road from me.
Just found this one on Flickr from last year; I think clicking on the image should take you to the original.
This shows the shallowness of the DOF with the 60mm@F2.8 (Subject Distance - 0.285 m from exif)
Bill, very clear evidence of worn out parts. I would assumed you did it hand held then do a burst shots and the rest of stacking is handled by your camera?
I did actually use a tripod and cheap macro rail, which really isn't up to the wight of the 150mm Sigma, but is OK with the 60mm Olympus Macro.
The rail was used to set the distance, to frame the image, rather than for final focusing. The actual high speed photo burst and stacking takes care of the focusing automatically.
The DOF is so thin with this sort of stuff, that hand held, even with the very fancy 5 axis image stabilisation on Olympus, I don't always get a successful stack.
The only reason it works at all, is that Olympus developed a silent shooting mode, where the shutter is held open and the individual shots are taken electronically, almost like individual frames from a video.
I went for a stroll the other day, and inadvertently set the shutter for High Speed Silent. Since both that and my normal low speed sequential, are silent, I didn't realise until I came to download the images from our bimble along the Cromford Canal. 2968 photos in raw+jpg took a while to download and sort.
Since there is this high speed mode available, the camera also has another clever trick up its sleeve.
You can set a shutter release mode, where the camera stores a series of images in buffer, as long as you half press the shutter release.
When you take the final photo, it also save the previous shots, up to the number you've pre-programmed.
i.e. focus on a bird on a tree, wait until it takes off and release the shutter.
Due to our reaction time, one will normally miss the actual start of the flight, but the camera already has it stored in buffer.
Hence the number of excellent in-flight shots we are starting to see from birds actually taking off. ( I should say, that's from other folk, rather than me)
It fills up a memory card very quickly in practice, so you need to get proficient at deleting multiple images in the field.
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 30/09/2020 07:24:01.
That’s an interesting and rather effective image, Bill
Could you please share a single frame from that stack, for comparison ?
Michael, It looks like I misinformed folk originally as I think it must have been a stack of 15 images, though I can only currently find 14 of them in the recycle bin.
If you've seen the video above, you'll have spotted that one can also set a focus differential between shots; in this case I used 1 for a minimum shift between adjacent photos, as the bearings were only 1/8", so I only needed a Depth of Field (DOF) of a bit over 1/16"
If I'd practiced more, rather than what was really just a snapshot to illustrate a point, I think I'd have ended up using a differential of 2, but without playing more I'm not sure.
I'm really not very experienced with this stuff.
Also a couple of basic errors, as I was rushing a bit to complete before we went out for a walk seeking fungi to photograph.
You'll have spotted a blue cast on the bearings which make it look like they've overheated.
I think it was because I left the camera's white balance set to Auto, and the orange plastic lid fooled it.
These two later images were processed individually from raw files from the original stack, and show less colour cast, but I forgot to correct it further before uploading to here; whats left of the bearings is actually silver.
This was 15 stacked images, taken in jpg+raw, but the final result out of camera is a jpg as a result of the in-camera stacking.
I don't normally bother with white balance, as I usually shoot raw, rather than jpg, so it's easy to compensate later.
Inevitably when I shoot these bracketed focus shots, I forget to pre-set to the correct colour temperature.
The second error, was forgetting to reset the differential to 5, so I failed to get full DOF on the later fungi shots.
Front image of stack
Back image of stack
There is a 15th image somewhere, which I think shows a bit more DOF on the lower right hand ball.
It's one of these techniques which needs more practice than I've given it, as there are no set numbers relating to the actual DOF for each of the focus differentials, as it depends on the distance, as well as the lens.
I'd previously had a go with my 4/3s 150mm Sigma macro lens + 25mm tube, which is as sharp a combination as any really, but to get sufficient DOF, I had to stop it down so far that diffraction damaged the image quality.
Anything greater than F5.6 does cause loss of quality in 4/3 or m4/3s, though it's workable OK up to about F11
Being a Sigma lens the in-camera stacking doesn't work, though I could probably have opened up to F2.8 and uses auto bracketing and lots of shots to re-assemble in Helicon or similar.
I don't have a licence for it though, and this was really only for a quick snapshot with minimal post processing.
DOF Calculator is worth a look as well;
Sam, quite some time ago with Olympus (in m4/3s only.)
I think it first featured native from new with the EM-1 Mk2, but became available post release in the Mk1 with software updates.
In some form, it's available in all the EM-1 range and possibly in later releases of the EM-5 &10, though I'm not sure about that.
Focus bracketing, ready for out of camera stacking, has been available for a while too.
In Camera stacking only works with a limited range of lenses, with must be Oly, rather than other manufacturers.
In my EM-1 Mk1, I'm limited to 8 consecutive shots, whereas the Mk2 will go up to 15 (I think); not sure how many in later models such as EM-1x
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