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Member postings for peak4

Here is a list of all the postings peak4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Alternative Lathe that would fit Myford Ind cabinet for a long bed
19/11/2019 16:59:40

Robert, if it's not too personal a question, what roughly is your budget?
Bill

p.s. Hello and welcome by the way; it's pretty friendly and helpful round here. 

Edited By peak4 on 19/11/2019 17:00:37

Thread: Lathe belt broken
19/11/2019 13:13:21
Posted by BOB BLACKSHAW on 19/11/2019 10:01:01:

......................

When changing the belt I push off the belt on to the other pully and its quite tight so its not loose. I don't use the tensioner at all as all the pully positions are a good belt tension.

The pulleys are all lined up, as I used a straight edge when setting up the three phase.

The only problem I see is changing to another pully, its pushing the belt over the pully wheel which could be damaging the belt over a period of time. If I left the belt on one pully I'm sure it would last.

The belt turns over on its self on the pully, and that's when it cracks up .

Any suggestions please, as I've gone trough a number of belts since I had the lathe.

Thanks Bob

Bob, I might be missing the blindingly obvious, since I've never used one of these lathes; surely the whole purpose of the belt tensioner is to release the tension, in order to change speeds.

Isn't it a spring loaded idler?
See Page 20 of this pdf.

Apologies if I'm sucking eggs up the wrong tree, or something like that.

Bill

Thread: Metric micrometer what t buy?
16/11/2019 23:21:42
Posted by Bandersnatch on 16/11/2019 17:06:09:
Posted by roy entwistle on 16/11/2019 11:42:46:

I have 0 - 1", 0 - 2", 0 - 3", and 0 - 4 "

Not doubting you Roy (well, I guess I am a bit) but I've never seen those. A 4" long thimble must be a sight to see. Could you post pictures (or a link)?

 

There are varieties available which don't have a 4" thimble.

This Starrett works as a 0-1" through to a 5"-6", so almost fits the description.

0-6 Starrett Micrometer.

It's getting a bit tired now but is accurate at both ends, but the 2"-3" and 3"-4" misread by one and two thou respectively.

I don't know if it was originally supplied with a set of reference bars.

See also THIS LINK


Bill

 

Edited By peak4 on 16/11/2019 23:22:54

16/11/2019 12:51:54

Posted by mgnbuk on 16/11/2019 11:23:15:

.........................................

I don't find metric mics as easy to read as Imperial ones - too easy misread & get 0.5mm out (a problem that my workplace colleagues also face). I always do a quick check of the micrometer anvils with a digital caliper now to guard against this.

Nigel B

(edit for spelling)

Edited By mgnbuk on 16/11/2019 11:24:41

I'm glad it's not just me, I have the same problem, particularly with my one small internal mic , which is metric.
Recently my cheapo Aldi/Lidl digital caliper had the battery door fall apart, so I picked up a spare new boxed unit off the shelf; I'd bought it for conversion to a digital height gauge.
It checked out fine against my 1" analogue mic test piece.
I then measured the bore of a small grinding wheel, with both the internal mic and the digital caliper and made the arbour to suit, also using the caliper to check the mic for a mis-read.
Yes a rattling fit 0.5mm out, the actual bore was 13+mm not 1/2"

On further investigation, the inside jaws on this caliper mis-read by 0.5mm; the one with the dodgy battery door was spot on, and I'd not thought to check its replacement.
Just something to beware of with cheap verniers.

Bill

Thread: Record 25 vice handle
14/11/2019 12:52:46
Posted by robjon44 on 14/11/2019 11:15:13:

Hi all, then just for the icing on the cake you could fit a suitably fat O ring at each end, under the head, to forestall that eye watering moment whilst in a rush, when the handle slides down from a near vertical position & traps the web between your thumb & first finger creating a torrent of Industrial Language, just a thought.

Cheers, Bob H

I was just about to pass a similar comment; I used a short length of thick wall reinforced rubber tubing, the sort of stuff used for air lines or gas welding bagging. Car heater, or oil pipe would do, but just make sure it has fibre, rather than the steel wire braiding often found in hydraulic pipes.
Bill

Thread: Metric micrometer what t buy?
14/11/2019 12:41:37

Have you considered an electronic/digital one?
This is an ebay example, though I'm not particularly advocating this individual product.

Note that, unlike some, it does also have a proper thimble, so can be used conventionally as well.

They are available with both metric and imperial thimbles, from a variety of manufacturers.
I recently bought an SPI one at a good price, Swiss made and feels good in the hand. Mine's got an imperial thimble, which is ideal as all my machines are also imperial.

Unfortunately I hadn't realised until it arrived, that the fixed anvil is ball ended, so it works well for flat surfaces and tube wall thicknesses, but since your main use for it is on the mill. that might even be advantageous.

p.s. This looks to be a similar item with a different badge if the Silverline logo offends, and also has a metric thimble. They probably all come out of the same factory.

Bill.

Edited By peak4 on 14/11/2019 12:45:41

Thread: Boring bar with inserts shape choice??
12/11/2019 18:18:16

One thought, that I don't think has been mentioned Chris; bear in mind I'm self taught, so don't always know how a job is supposed to be done.
In normal outside turning, with the tool bang on centre height, any distortion in the tool, or workpiece, is likely to reduce the depth of cut and help prevent a dig-in.

By contrast, a boring tool is working in an internal circle, rather than the cutting forces being more or less a tangent to an external one.

Hence, during boring, a slight distortion of the tool will move the cutting edge into the workpiece, and thus a deeper cut, perhaps then distorting more, and leading to an even deeper cut and the eventual dig-in and or chatter.

To that end, for boring and internal thread cutting only, I found that having the tool just above centre height to be advantageous. If it distorts a tad downwards, depth of cut is reduced; this applies to either a boring bar, or using an end mill as described earlier. (or even a woodworkers carbide router cutter, depending on what you have available.)

Keep on asking the questions though, I'm learning from the answers as well as you.

Bill

Thread: What would you call this tool
11/11/2019 14:01:35

Not sure what you'd call it as it's a bit of a home brew special.
I could be interested in using it in my own workshop though, as I'd been thinking about knocking up something similar.
Bill

Thread: Yahoo Groups: Heads up for members of e-mail groups
10/11/2019 23:58:19
Posted by Emgee on 10/11/2019 23:27:09:

If you are a member of any group that hasn't moved there is a program called PGonline that can download all yahoo group data for your group and save in a database, but be quick or it's lost.

Emgee

Many thanks for that, I've not tried it yet, but I think it might be PG offline. wink

Bill

Thread: How does someone gauge the power of a DC or AC motor?
09/11/2019 15:00:01

From the photos you posted of the diamond laps, 400rpm seems about right.
Sorry for using an ebay link, but how about something Like This ER16 spindle

A normal cheap 240v motor will run at 1425 rpm, so you need about 3.5/1 reduction.
Take the small pulley off the spindle, and re-use it as the motor pulley, procure a suitable belt and pulley 3.5 times the diameter of the one you already have, and fit it to the spindle.

Another ebay search for "NVR switch", will point you to one of the cheap black and yellow switches, so it all works safely. For the loads you're likely to be putting on the setup, I can't see the point of fancy overload/overheating protection for the motor.


Bill

 

 

Edited By peak4 on 09/11/2019 15:00:53

Thread: Yet another 'which mill shall I buy'
09/11/2019 11:12:46

Premier Machine Tools have a Tom Senior in at the moment; if not for you, someone else reading the thread might be interested.

Bill

Thread: Source of Stainless Strip
06/11/2019 12:47:33

Maybe find someone who makes bandsaw blades for butchers, and blag a short length; they are likely to be stainless strip.

Bill

Thread: Installation of a Myford (or any machine tool)
06/11/2019 12:36:58

A couple of thoughts spring to mind, Currently my own Myford S7 clone sits on a clone cabinet, but essentially all similar to original.

As a temporary measure when I moved in to the new house, where the garage floor is uneven, I use 4 adjustable height feet; essentially lengths of threaded rod, with a ball end plugged into a disk of nylon. They are plenty strong enough and easily allow adjustment for the uneven floor; I'd have struggled with lengths of box section, as I'd have still needed lots of bits of packing.

The advantages; ease of adjustment, quick, cheap, allows some storage underneath in old baking trays, adds enough height to save me bending over too far, makes it easy to move the lathe away from the wall, for access to motor etc.

Disadvantages; if something is out of balance, the whole assembly is more prone to vibration, a real pain finding stuff underneath when you've dropped it, arguably less stable, but I can't imagine it toppling forwards, and there's a wall behind it.

In my old house I had a washing machine in the outside toilet, again on an uneven surface. Eventually I added a couple of heavy 3'x2' concrete paving slabs on a layer of mortar. This allowed easy levelling of the slabs before the mortar set. maybe replace your old work surface with a pair of these. They are the 40mm plain concrete paving slabs, not the lightweight ones for garden paths. They are also heavy enough that you could bolt the cabinet to them, without drilling the floor.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 06/11/2019 12:38:00

Thread: Changing a Motor from Star to Delta
05/11/2019 02:00:22
Posted by Emgee on 04/11/2019 23:48:10:

Brian

U1, V1 and W1, the original terminals that were connected,
ignore the lettering on the 2's you removed from the other terminal.

Emgee

Emgee, I'm not quite sure what you meant to say there, but I'm not sure it came out right in print.

3 individual windings U, V, & W, each with ends 1&2 and all end 2s currently commoned together in Star formation.

To transform to Mesh (i.e. Delta), whilst still maintaining the correct orientation of each coil, as follows.

Leave U1, V1, & W1 where they are, U2 goes on top of V1, V2 on top of W1, and W2 on top of U1

The three phases go to each of the three terminals ( which now have 2 wires on each one)

To reverse the motor, swap any two phases (not windings)

Bill

Bill

Thread: Flxispeed Meteor II - Centre Height in Gap
04/11/2019 23:50:54
Posted by James Alford on 04/11/2019 22:22:08:

Does anyone know when the Meteor II was discontinued? From the lathes.co.uk website it suggests that it was in the mid 70s, but I am not sure.

James.

Not sure James, but the receipt for my Simat is dated 1982 (£95)

Bill

04/11/2019 00:19:37

I believe it's similar to my Simat 101

Simat 101

Bill

Thread: Boring bar toolpost.
03/11/2019 18:33:01
Posted by Lathejack on 03/11/2019 17:56:41:

The tee slotted crosslide shown on my Warco 1330 lathe is a Myford 280 item that I bought and slightly modified to fit my 1330 several years ago. ......................

Cheers for that, and sorry for taking you off topic.
I did read your album posts before committing to buying mine (second hand) , but forgot about the top slide conversion.
The first thing I did after having it delivered, apart from moving it indoors, was to see if there was any sand included free-of-charge.

Bill

03/11/2019 17:44:54

The topic on hand is interesting in terms of the boring bar size and usage, but the thing that really grabs me is the T slotted cross slide on a GH1330; mine's plain.

Bill

Thread: Colchester Master Mk1 lifting + moving advice
02/11/2019 00:16:53

The Colchester Student is apparently 625Kg with tailstock etc.

Since it's on a good solid pallet, it might save the need for my earlier suggestion of making wheels.
I think, if funds allow, a hired or borrowed pallet truck would be favourite, I'd suggest a wide type with a couple of ratchet straps to hold the lathe down. Plywood similar sheets would clearly be needed to span the gravel.
If you're careful and don't damage them, they might cut up for shelving, cabinets, worktops etc.

For my own worktops I actually used 47mm chipboard, rescued from a mezzanine floor. I then faced it with laminated flooring, to leave a nice clean surface; it's common to pick up just a couple of packs as end-of-line for very little money. Two or three layers of the plywood would re-use in a similar manner for a very sturdy bench, so the money/materials are not wasted; it wouldn't even matter much if a bit damaged.

The wider pallet trucks would be more stable for the trip to the workshop, and may well allow enough height to raise it up most of the way to the step.

What's at the other end of the workshop; anything to anchor a winch to? Maybe even add a Rawl anchor to the floor. Judicially placed, it may even have other uses. Depending on the final resting place for the lathe, might it even double up as one of the ground anchors for finally bolting it down?

Bill

29/10/2019 19:08:13

I've just moved a workshop myself and also had a Warco 1330 delivered, which I needed to move into its final resting place; Also recently helped a friend move a large Elliot Turret mill and a Large lathe, Triumph I think. I've also had a fair amount of practice moving 10' x 4'6" equipment racks around at work, up to about 3/4 ton.

As with many of the above comments from other contributors, caution is advised. Yes it's good that metal to metal friction is fairly low, which helps one move stuff about, but it also allows things to go wrong very quickly.

You obviously don't need telling that you lathe will be fairly top heavy, so side slopes are to be treated with caution, and even on the level, things can still fall over. For that reason, I'd be reluctant to have longitudinal bars for the cabinet to slide along; if it slides off them, it's well on the way to falling over, due to the momentum.
Don't be afraid to have an extra rope(s) transverse to the bed, going to solid anchors, one either side, to ensure it all stays upright.

Steel rollers transverse to the bed work well enough; on a concrete floor I prefer thinner solid ones, but over an uneven surface, a larger diameter can be advantageous as it allows the roller to climb over the odd pebble etc. If a roller stops suddenly, there's a danger that the lathe can carry on going by sliding over the now stationary roller, due to the aforementioned low friction.

I don't know the layout of your garden, so am reluctant to give specific advice, more just food for thought. If your cabinet has suitable bolting down points, how about using them to attach two pieces of box section, transverse to the bed, with a wheel on each end. Anything to widen the "wheelbase" has to help stability.

Personally, this is the only way I'd use longitudinal rails to slide the lathe along, and then only angle iron, rather than scaff tube, unless the latter is somehow constrained to prevent it rolling.
Engine cranes, whilst having a decent capacity, are also quite cumbersome with something as wide and long as a lathe, particularly if the ground beneath is less than ideal. However, if you have one, maybe it could temporarily loan its castors to your two lengths of box section; they should have the capacity.

Here's how I've done stuff recently, utilising some specially designed angle brackets which were attached when I took delivery of a large and heavy cabinet at work, not sure of the weight but well over a ton.

I re-purposed the brackets, and use a couple of lengths of threaded rod at each end, to form a pair of cradles in which the lathe sits, shown here on a Myford, but have been used on bigger stuff such as my large fire safe. I think I used them on the big Warco as well. 600+Kg

Myford on Wheels

Myford on wheels

Myford on Wheels

If enlisting help, I always make it clear that only one person is in charge at any one time; it may or may not be me depending on the individual logistics. I prefer a rule that states anyone can shout Stop, but only the person formally in charge, at any one time, says Go. Discuss the plan in detail before moving anything, and make sure everyone fully understands it.
Also, its perfectly reasonable to hand control to someone else part way through a move, such as going through a door. I always do that formally, even if it does sound officious, i.e. "John, you're now in control"; make sure they've heard you and confirmed/agreed.

N.B. Ensure all personnel have an escape route in case it goes pear shaped.

Good Luck

p.s. whereabouts roughly are you in the country?

Edited By peak4 on 29/10/2019 19:16:14

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