|Thread: Shipping delays and costs|
Not wishing to hijack Ketan's information thread, but this relevant article appeared on the BBC News Site Today
Edited By peak4 on 22/01/2021 23:48:10
|Thread: Any information greatly appreciated. 2|
Not the best of photos, I forgot to do it before it went dark.
Anyone know what make mine is please, just out of curiosity really.
Almost certainly UK/US as the sizes are imperial, ½" hole for the cross bar, so this shock absorber spindle is just too loose. 13/16" for the column.
The base is 6"x 2¾" x 1 ¾"
Edited By peak4 on 22/01/2021 22:38:55
|Thread: Myford spindle rectification or replacement|
Posted by Journeyman on 21/01/2021 18:33:11
Posted by peak4 on 21/01/2021 18:08:05
I've seen all your videos, but none show a clock gauge on the lathe spindle itself;
I don't think you have seen all the videos, in the thumbnails that come up with the **LINK** there are several more that you need to scroll the display so that you can see them There are about 6 more off to the right. These clearly show the spindle register, register collar and taper being clocked. They show no appreciable runout. I would conclude that the spindle is perfectly acceptable.
The fault I believe is with the collet chuck, it shows runout when fitted to the spindle and runout on the Myford plug-in nose which is also running true..
Well spotted John, no idea how I missed them; Videos on youtube normally show for me as a series of tiles on the one page.
Yes the spindle certainly looks OK.
Howard, I think Peter's chuck is a direct screw mount without backplate; I've seen an advert for one before, but can't recall the make.
Hence my stress on not "adjusting" the register, just clocking it to see if it's obviously in need of returning.
I had to adapt my two part one as it was second hand and so far out that even re-grinding the ER taper part wouldn't have worked, as the nut would still have pulled the collet off centre
|Thread: Any information greatly appreciated. 2|
If you look up something like "cast iron indicator stand" in your favourite search engine, you will come across images such as this one
Which should give some idea of its use.
I have something similar, again with no makers marks at all.
Mine has a nice black crackle paint finish; I assume mine is US/UK as the column is 13/16" and the cross arm is 1/2", rather than either being metric.
The other obvious difference in mine is the top slot; yours and the one I linked to are T slots, whereas mine is dovetailed.
Mine came without the cross bar and accessories, so the plan is for a length of ½" silver steel and a holder for the end to take my various clocks.
|Thread: Myford spindle rectification or replacement|
I'm with Old Mart here.
I think anything including the conventional 3 jaw may be misleading.
I've seen all your videos, but none show a clock gauge on the lathe spindle itself; obviously the step and face to the left of the spindle's thread provides a chuck register. Perhaps a measure there, and a gentle very thin application of Micrometer blue might provide a pointer.
Try it with everything you have that screws onto the spindle (except the Er32 chuck) and see if there is a common point of damage.
When you've satisfied yourself that the nose appears to be OK, start checking out your nice new collect chuck, and see what that and a bit of blue shows.
Introducing other items and then hanging the new chuck off them might be misleading, as there could be multiple compensating errors.
I'm not sure what procedure you were doing with the Arrand test bar, but I would have thought that would only, at this stage, prove the morse taper.
A possible thought, and a method I used when I bought a second hand 2 part chuck (of the RDG ER25 style)
The previous owner had failed to read any instructions, and rather than machining the dedicated mini-backplate to the chuck body, did it the other way around.
They machined the inside of the register on the chuck itself, but must have done so in an off-centre 3-jaw; It was a good 10-15 thou out.
In order to try and retrieve this, I mounted the ER chuck backwards, but without its backplate.
Essentially turn a length of bar to a good finish, held in your 3 jaw to a size suited to one of your larger ER32 collets, say 16mm. Don't adjust the chuck; now you know you have a bar concentric to the axis or rotation of your spindle, regardless damage or chuck offset.
Mount your new chuck backwards on this concentric stub, with the nut end facing the headstock.
Clock the register inside your new chuck.
Obviously don't re-machine yours, just clock it; in my case that was the whole idea in order to produce a new chuck register concentric with the ER taper, which I could then match by re-machining the backplate.
Edited By peak4 on 21/01/2021 18:11:15
|Thread: Sheffield here|
Hello from Buxton, though I retired here from Crookes (S10) a small few years ago.
A couple of machines in common as well; Myford, DW-1, Simat 101
I'm not a member myself, but SheffieldModSoc.
Edited By peak4 on 20/01/2021 21:59:10
|Thread: Planer Blades|
Posted by Clive B 1 on 19/01/2021 22:17:09
Thanks for the reply’s guys
I tried doing a Google search using 2kitCOM & 2kitS1 and didn’t have any luck, can I ask what their website is?
Seems to be the same Woodford outfit in Stockport
Link 1 2602025-2KITCOM
Link 2 2602025-2KITS1
I don't know if you've looked on ebay, but there's a firm in Stockport which lists at least two types at slightly different prices under different trader's names. The two types have different MPN (stock) numbers 2kitCOM & 2kitS1
Both seem to be the same company.
They also list the same size under different machine manes, so have a good browse around there.
|Thread: Telescopic Bore Gauges|
Posted by Tony Pratt 1 on 18/01/2021 13:40:09
'This Old Tony' on Youtube did a video on improving a set of telescopic bore gauges, it might be useful having a look to inform your buying decision. I wouldn't personally buy this sort of thing for less than £20, it would end in tears. The Kennedy ones look OK & you can always get a refund if they are a load of rubbish but as they are mainly an industrial supplier you should be alright.
Here you go, I was just finding it when you posted your reply; from a couple of minutes in
|Thread: How do these work|
I can remember these from parks around Liverpool in the '60s; we moved away to Chorley in '68
Some still had the cups on chains, which my Dad showed my how to use hygienically;
Wash out the cup, hold in right hand, extend left index finger and lay across lower lip, drink over that finger, so the cup didn't touch your lips.
I'd almost forgotten that last bit; thanks for reviving my memory of a family moment.
|Thread: Socket/thread sizes|
Re my earlier post, now I'm back from a stroll in the snow; bearing in mind these appear to be old German made sockets, I wonder is SAE then had a different usage and referred to a screw gauge.
That being the case SAE14 looks to be 1/4" - 6mm from THIS CHART
That would tally nicely with a hex head being about 7/16" or 11mm.
Also, we haven't seen the shape of the inside of the sockets; these may well be purely hexagonal, in which case there is a bit more tolerance of fit over a 12 point.
Modern "wall drive" sockets specifically don't drive on the points of a hex head, and are again a but more tolerant of fit.
At the end of the day, a rusty hex head is a different size to a new one.
For some jobs I quite favour the proper high quality Metrinch sets of spanners and sockets.
Re the D1914 & D1929 designations;
I wonder if they refer to an old DIN standard, now replaced
i.e. DIN19 size 14 & 29 respectively
The lower numbered DIN STANDARDS mainly seem to be referencing screw, threads etc.
DIN19 no longer features(if it ever did)
Edited By peak4 on 14/01/2021 18:03:51
|Thread: Coronavirus death stats|
Ultimately, the real figure to take notice of the the excess deaths over and above the normal 5 or 10 year average.
C-19 will account for a large number of that excess directly, but also indirectly, due to a variety of reasons including delayed treatments and investigations, mental health, stress induced heart disease, etc.
Against that, with lockdowns there should be less road traffic and industrial accidents etc.
Obviously non of the above are exhaustive.
Here's a couple of links from a doctor on Twitter. I attach them here via threadreader for those without an account.
Forget the actual numbers, but look at the trends
Link 1 This contains an animation in the first graph.
Link 2 shows current ventilator occupancy. Don't forget that treatments have improved after the first wave, with conventional oxygen therapy, oxygen enhanced CPAP, and other drug therapies, so one would perhaps expect actual invasive ventilator use to decrease, but look at the graph.
Please don't let anyone be misled by those misusing or misunderstanding the figures and claiming this isn't as serious as it is in reality.
Stay safe folks, but don't get so stressed your health suffers for other reasons.
Seek help if you need it, physical, or mental.
|Thread: Socket/thread sizes|
Hello and welcome, by their shape, they look a bit like impact sockets, and also the lack of chrome or other plating might point that way. It may of course just be that they are old, before chrome plating was common on sockets.
The current Gedore's history goes some way back to germany, so I guess D1914 refers to an old Deutch standard; similar with 14SAE
7/16 will be the Across Flats (AF) size of the hex head it's designed to fit
11mm Again will be the Across Flats (AF) size of the hex head it's designed to fit
1/4DIN probably UNF/UNC 1/4" thread diameter, but about 11mm spanner size.
Another socket is marked with:
29/32 Again will be the Across Flats (AF) size of the hex head it's designed to fit
1/2W This is Whitworth(& BSF), and refers to the thread diameter, but the hex head is about 23mm or 29/32" across the flats
23mm Again will be the Across Flats (AF) size of the hex head it's designed to fit. not a preferred metric thread size, but often included in sets, so it can be used on 1/2" BSW fasteners.
There's lots of tables on the net, but THIS RANDOMLY SELECTED ONE will provide a starting point
|Thread: Recommended suppliers|
For RM parcels, may I suggest using one of the tracked delivery services, such as 48 hour tracked.
It doesn't cost that much more, particularly when compared to the value of a more expensive order.
I have it on good authority that the timed orders such as this are more likely to appear, as they will form part of a service delivery analysis.
i.e. RM warehousing overloaded, due to Covid staff shortages, and Covid safe working environments, so priority process timed packages.
|Thread: The Repair Shop is getting to me...|
I've always felt it's crying out for a "red button" option.
There must be lots more video available that never made it onto the show, that would be available to better depict some of the restorers' skills.
|Thread: Workshop Clearance - Advice|
Sorry to hear that Steve, I have vague memories of visiting your Dad's company many years ago.
Other than the obvious places that offer workshop clearance in the back of magazines, have you considered an ad on HomeWorkshop?
The Myford, Clarke, or Seig might tempt someone to pick up the lot, even if they only want a couple of the machines.
i.e. to keep the items they are looking for, and then sell on the rest to subsidise their own workshop.
|Thread: Rejoice, Rejoice, I have at long last achieved something!|
Regarding flashing/flickering LEDs, are the folks suffering from the problem using dimmer switches?
Some LED 240v domestic lamps are marketed as dimmable and others not; but also older wall dimmer switches may not be compatible with LED lamp driver circuits.
I'll deliberately link to An Older Article here as many people retrofitting LEDs to existing applications will be using older wall dimmers.
My own wall dimmers do work after a fashion, but can induce flash/flicker, depending on the load and setting.
They work for the time being, but I'll eventually replace them with newer dimmers using the correct modern technology.
My reasoning was/is that as LED lighting becomes more popular, demand for the correct dimmers will increase and the price will fall. This has been bourn out in practice, as when I first started pricing them, LED dimmers were about £45 per unit; now one can easily find a double dimmer for less than £20
|Thread: MIG Gas|
Posted by John Reese on 07/01/2021 21:12:25
The CO2 used in welding or for carbonating your beer is extracted from the air so from that standpoint it is neutral. The energy requires to extract CO2 from the air is not carbon neutral.
As others have said the welding characteristics of the argon blend are much better than straight CO2.
Completely off at a tangent (almost) there was quite a good film about Bulmers cider making on over the Christmas holiday.
They save, clean, and store the CO2 from the fermentation process for re-use later.
I found the scale of the operation staggering, and I used to work at Stones Brewery in Sheffield many years ago.
BBC iPlayer link ( for the next few weeks anyway)
The CO2 mention is about 35 mins in.
|Thread: New, old Myford Super 7 essentials|
I've suggested Giovanni start a new thread, but when he does I do have a query.
Did the very first Myford gearboxes use a different drive chain, and could his 12/30 gear actually be correct for his box?
Giovanni, hello and welcome.
For the last part of your query have a look on This Thread by Neil on how to post photos.
For the first part, it is difficult to explain just in words.
What you have described as "gear change gears (idle)." are often referred to as "Tumbler Gears" up here in the UK, and are often made of plastic or Tufnol.
These drive the two part gear you mention as the start of the gear train into the gearbox. This is the one you have describes as "double and fixed gear 12/30 teeth"
The 12 tooth end is where you would need to fit the 33 or 34 tooth gears, but I understand your confusion, as I think you have the wrong part fitted (the 12/30 one).
On the lathe without a gearbox, there is a similar arrangement, with a double gear. This is actually a 30 tooth gear, but where you have the 12 tooth one, there is a plain stub to fit the gear of your choice.
This is what should be fitted to your 7B-with a gearbox. It would allow you to use the correct gear combination to start off your drive chain, using a 24/30 as opposed to the 12/30 that you have at the moment.
The 33 & 34 toot gears you have read about (as well as a 21) would take the place of the 24 tooth gear, so that you could have 21/30, 33/30, 34/30 in able to cut metric threads on your Imperial lathe.
The 12/30 one piece gear you have is an optional extra for the change-wheel lathe; that is the one without a gearbox. i.e. the Super 7 as opposed to your Super 7B
It is intended to provide an even finer feed for normal turning operations, but in your case at the moment it will give only ½ the pitch you select on the gearbox.
You will need to swap your 12/30 gear for a Blank-Stub/30 one. It also has the advantage of being fitted with a needle roller bearing .
It sounds like you have one of THESE
Whereas you need one of THESE
I hope this is clear, but if not please come back and ask, and I'll take some photos of my setup(s)