|Thread: Myford S7 clutch adjustment|
If you have a Facebook account, join the Myford Lathes group, where you will find a useful pdf in the Files section there.
Failing that, send me a PM with an email address, and I'll let you have a copy.
I don't wish to try posting it here in case anyone becomes concerned about copyright issues.
|Thread: I may be stupid but|
I have a feeling that one or more of the Rohm designs has just the one pinion, which might fit with the German writing.
Have a look at the catalogue HERE P3024 (28 of 94 in the pdf) Economy - ZG-ZGU
It's a bit more obvious in the photo of the 4 jaw SC chuck, that there appears to only be one pinion at the top.
Since it's presumably not labelled on the chucks being discussed here, I wonder if they might be Chinese copies??
Similarly these TOS 4 jaw ones
Edited By peak4 on 24/06/2022 21:41:52
I've not seen any formal manufacturers instructions on conventional 3 jaw chucks, other than for Griptru or similar designs.
These are effectively just a high quality cuck on a separate, but integrated mount for adjusting concentricity.
The Pratt Burnerd instructions give directions for adjusting the chuck body, and then say that any pinion may be used, "when it is not essential to maintain concentricity within the very fine limits mentioned."
I read that as, use any pinion, but if you set something up using one, then continue to use that one, if you want repeatability for a given diameter.
I always use the same pinion on each chuck I have, and seem to get the best concentricity.
A drill chuck however seems to benefit in holding power, by using each key hole, but that seems to be about internal friction and holding power, rather than concentricity.
|Thread: Best way to run 400v 3ph motor on 220v|
As said above, you can convert the motor from star to delta yourself, or it is possible to get 220V single phase in 380V 3 phase out inverters. Look for AT4, rather than the more common AT1
Alternatively, you could have a word with Newton Tesla, as I've read elsewhere, that if you buy an inverter (package??) from them, they will assist in digging out the star point on your existing motor.
Edited By peak4 on 21/06/2022 18:24:27
|Thread: Meddings Dril Tru - What to do?|
Posted by not done it yet on 20/06/2022 14:59:00
Posted by Jon Halland on 20/06/2022 08:34:30
Sad end for a drill. The body is now a heavy and sturdy base for my work light (came on a lousy tripod that was always in the way and easily got knocked over). Stand will be for the bench grinder and other useable parts are being sold.
Thanks for your replies.
Definitely a sad end to something that would likely be readily repaired/altered to make a very good machine.
But unfortunately one can only undertake repairs with the facilities at hand.
Lots of us could have effected a repair at comparatively small cost, but when you don't have other machine tools, you're limited to hand tools, expenditure, or help from a friend.
If I'd lived closer, I'd have been happy to assist, but not much to be done from this distance.
|Thread: Replacing a 24V AC machine lamp|
Posted by Calum Galleitch on 19/06/2022 09:15:39
Peak4's link above looks spot-on, so I have ordered one and hopefully that will last another twenty years!
If you ordered directly from that link, they should certainly last for 20 years, as I think it was for a pack of 10 .
Posted by Calum Galleitch on 18/06/2022 19:48:00
Yes, the lamps themselves are easy - it's the holder I'm looking for, or if the holder can't be found a replacement for the whole assembly.
Lorries/campervan electrics are DC and seem to have all gone over to LED already - I did think that was the obvious place to look but I couldn't see anything obviously useful.
These don't look a mile out
|Thread: Understanding chuck test certificates|
SV and LV are defined in the footnote to the certificate.
I note that the serial numbers are missing for the SV & LV lines at the top.
I've no idea what the 511/358 refers to, but maybe the SP is short for Super Precision, as per the catalogue on P8
That being the case, then the chuck is of the type with reversible jaw fronts for inside/outside use, hence not having two different sets of serial numbers on the certificate.
The SV & LV would likely denote in which orientation the jaws were set, in this case, or which set of jaws were selected in the case of a different style of chuck, thus allowing the ticket to be used for more than one application.
|Thread: Edge finder lubrication|
Balistol Universal Oil is good stuff, though has a rather odd smell.
|Thread: A TOPICAL point, FANS.|
Posted by duncan webster on 17/06/2022 21:45:58
To swerve the thread a bit, what's best for lubricating steering lock in car. It has to be aerosol so I can send it uphill into the lock. Interweb suggests GT85 ptfe lubricant, but someone might know better.
Graphite dust puffer maybe, though you to need to keep a tissue handy to wipe the key for a while, before putting it in your pocket.
|Thread: Parting off small screws - well, it may be new to somebody|
Nice one, for larger items, I tend to catch them in aluminium foil ready meal trays.
|Thread: 420 stainless sheet|
Here's a couple, but don't know if they supply small quantities.
|Thread: Change of direct debit for MEW?|
Same here, all looks legit to me;
I've been expecting something since the transfer of ownership.
|Thread: Silver Solder Storage|
I do the same with the larger size conduit for my MT reamers, test bars etc.
Also works for avoiding chips on larger carbide milling cutters
I use ex- port or whisky corks for the open ends open Morse tapers on lathe, milling machine, rotary table etc.
|Thread: Magnetic + dti + base + recommendations|
It depends very much on what I'm trying to true up, and on which lathe.
On the Myford, or small Warco lookalike, I use a small diameter plunger set horizontally in the QD toolpost.
I also made a small spare chuck key, so I have the normal one at the front and the little one at the back of the 4 jaw.
It makes getting concentricity a doddle.
First do it by eye with the lines on the chuck face, then clock the workpiece next to jaw 1, zero the dial, clock @ jaw 3, move the workpiece half the difference.
Repeat for jaw 2 or 4 to the same reading, after one pass like that, it will be within a couple of thou, so one more run through will set you set up ready to go.
re mag bases, I have a couple of genuine M&W push button ones, as well as a clone.
All work equally well.
As my fingers are getting older and less strong, I find myself using the cheap imported ones with a rotary switch more often; they work well enough after the bases have been lapped on a bit of fine wet & dry.
For support arms, I use both the style you describe, as well as those with a couple of ball joints and a central knob. though they are a bit less rigid, and arguably better suited to lever, rather than plunger clocks.
|Thread: Logan lathe manual|
Check your PMs
|Thread: MYFORD S 7 BELTS ?|
I'm using this link belt off eBay, seems to work well enough, cheaper than Fenner, and far better than either the black or white plastic link belts from RDG
|Thread: FORUM DOWNTIME AND RESULTING ISSUES REPORTING|
Posted by JasonB on 08/06/2022 17:16:09
Bill and Francis, OP say 1.00 am not 1 pm and posts have been lost since then going by what is showing in latest posts
Edited By JasonB on 08/06/2022 18:12:26
I did read it, thought 1pm was a funny time for a server upgrade, re-read it to confirm, and still came up with the wrong time.
Thanks for the hard work, site certainly seems to load faster now.
I think you may have lost posts before 13.00 as well.
I replied to one by Michael Gilligan which he started at 8.01 this morning (8th) which seems to have vanished.
I am also receiving the same security warnings as Joseph.
|Thread: Proxxon Micromot 60 Drill Went BANG!!!!|
Having just seen a photo of the insides of the charger, part way down this page, I'd agree that the design leaves something to be desired.