Here is a list of all the postings peak4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Alternative Lathe that would fit Myford Ind cabinet for a long bed|
Robert, if it's not too personal a question, what roughly is your budget?
p.s. Hello and welcome by the way; it's pretty friendly and helpful round here.
Edited By peak4 on 19/11/2019 17:00:37
|Thread: Lathe belt broken|
Bob, I might be missing the blindingly obvious, since I've never used one of these lathes; surely the whole purpose of the belt tensioner is to release the tension, in order to change speeds.
Apologies if I'm sucking eggs up the wrong tree, or something like that.
|Thread: Metric micrometer what t buy?|
There are varieties available which don't have a 4" thimble.
This Starrett works as a 0-1" through to a 5"-6", so almost fits the description.
It's getting a bit tired now but is accurate at both ends, but the 2"-3" and 3"-4" misread by one and two thou respectively.
See also THIS LINK
Edited By peak4 on 16/11/2019 23:22:54
I'm glad it's not just me, I have the same problem, particularly with my one small internal mic , which is metric.
|Thread: Record 25 vice handle|
I was just about to pass a similar comment; I used a short length of thick wall reinforced rubber tubing, the sort of stuff used for air lines or gas welding bagging. Car heater, or oil pipe would do, but just make sure it has fibre, rather than the steel wire braiding often found in hydraulic pipes.
|Thread: Metric micrometer what t buy?|
Have you considered an electronic/digital one?
They are available with both metric and imperial thimbles, from a variety of manufacturers.
Unfortunately I hadn't realised until it arrived, that the fixed anvil is ball ended, so it works well for flat surfaces and tube wall thicknesses, but since your main use for it is on the mill. that might even be advantageous.
p.s. This looks to be a similar item with a different badge if the Silverline logo offends, and also has a metric thimble. They probably all come out of the same factory.
Edited By peak4 on 14/11/2019 12:45:41
|Thread: Boring bar with inserts shape choice??|
One thought, that I don't think has been mentioned Chris; bear in mind I'm self taught, so don't always know how a job is supposed to be done.
Hence, during boring, a slight distortion of the tool will move the cutting edge into the workpiece, and thus a deeper cut, perhaps then distorting more, and leading to an even deeper cut and the eventual dig-in and or chatter.
|Thread: What would you call this tool|
Not sure what you'd call it as it's a bit of a home brew special.
|Thread: Yahoo Groups: Heads up for members of e-mail groups|
Many thanks for that, I've not tried it yet, but I think it might be PG offline.
|Thread: How does someone gauge the power of a DC or AC motor?|
From the photos you posted of the diamond laps, 400rpm seems about right.
A normal cheap 240v motor will run at 1425 rpm, so you need about 3.5/1 reduction.
Another ebay search for "NVR switch", will point you to one of the cheap black and yellow switches, so it all works safely. For the loads you're likely to be putting on the setup, I can't see the point of fancy overload/overheating protection for the motor.
Edited By peak4 on 09/11/2019 15:00:53
|Thread: Yet another 'which mill shall I buy'|
Premier Machine Tools have a Tom Senior in at the moment; if not for you, someone else reading the thread might be interested.
|Thread: Source of Stainless Strip|
Maybe find someone who makes bandsaw blades for butchers, and blag a short length; they are likely to be stainless strip.
|Thread: Installation of a Myford (or any machine tool)|
A couple of thoughts spring to mind, Currently my own Myford S7 clone sits on a clone cabinet, but essentially all similar to original.
As a temporary measure when I moved in to the new house, where the garage floor is uneven, I use 4 adjustable height feet; essentially lengths of threaded rod, with a ball end plugged into a disk of nylon. They are plenty strong enough and easily allow adjustment for the uneven floor; I'd have struggled with lengths of box section, as I'd have still needed lots of bits of packing.
The advantages; ease of adjustment, quick, cheap, allows some storage underneath in old baking trays, adds enough height to save me bending over too far, makes it easy to move the lathe away from the wall, for access to motor etc.
Disadvantages; if something is out of balance, the whole assembly is more prone to vibration, a real pain finding stuff underneath when you've dropped it, arguably less stable, but I can't imagine it toppling forwards, and there's a wall behind it.
Edited By peak4 on 06/11/2019 12:38:00
|Thread: Changing a Motor from Star to Delta|
Emgee, I'm not quite sure what you meant to say there, but I'm not sure it came out right in print.
3 individual windings U, V, & W, each with ends 1&2 and all end 2s currently commoned together in Star formation.
To transform to Mesh (i.e. Delta), whilst still maintaining the correct orientation of each coil, as follows.
Leave U1, V1, & W1 where they are, U2 goes on top of V1, V2 on top of W1, and W2 on top of U1
|Thread: Flxispeed Meteor II - Centre Height in Gap|
Not sure James, but the receipt for my Simat is dated 1982 (£95)
I believe it's similar to my Simat 101
|Thread: Boring bar toolpost.|
Cheers for that, and sorry for taking you off topic.
The topic on hand is interesting in terms of the boring bar size and usage, but the thing that really grabs me is the T slotted cross slide on a GH1330; mine's plain.
|Thread: Colchester Master Mk1 lifting + moving advice|
The Colchester Student is apparently 625Kg with tailstock etc.
Since it's on a good solid pallet, it might save the need for my earlier suggestion of making wheels.
For my own worktops I actually used 47mm chipboard, rescued from a mezzanine floor. I then faced it with laminated flooring, to leave a nice clean surface; it's common to pick up just a couple of packs as end-of-line for very little money. Two or three layers of the plywood would re-use in a similar manner for a very sturdy bench, so the money/materials are not wasted; it wouldn't even matter much if a bit damaged.
The wider pallet trucks would be more stable for the trip to the workshop, and may well allow enough height to raise it up most of the way to the step.
What's at the other end of the workshop; anything to anchor a winch to? Maybe even add a Rawl anchor to the floor. Judicially placed, it may even have other uses. Depending on the final resting place for the lathe, might it even double up as one of the ground anchors for finally bolting it down?
I've just moved a workshop myself and also had a Warco 1330 delivered, which I needed to move into its final resting place; Also recently helped a friend move a large Elliot Turret mill and a Large lathe, Triumph I think. I've also had a fair amount of practice moving 10' x 4'6" equipment racks around at work, up to about 3/4 ton.
I don't know the layout of your garden, so am reluctant to give specific advice, more just food for thought. If your cabinet has suitable bolting down points, how about using them to attach two pieces of box section, transverse to the bed, with a wheel on each end. Anything to widen the "wheelbase" has to help stability.
Personally, this is the only way I'd use longitudinal rails to slide the lathe along, and then only angle iron, rather than scaff tube, unless the latter is somehow constrained to prevent it rolling.
I re-purposed the brackets, and use a couple of lengths of threaded rod at each end, to form a pair of cradles in which the lathe sits, shown here on a Myford, but have been used on bigger stuff such as my large fire safe. I think I used them on the big Warco as well. 600+Kg
If enlisting help, I always make it clear that only one person is in charge at any one time; it may or may not be me depending on the individual logistics. I prefer a rule that states anyone can shout Stop, but only the person formally in charge, at any one time, says Go. Discuss the plan in detail before moving anything, and make sure everyone fully understands it.
N.B. Ensure all personnel have an escape route in case it goes pear shaped.
p.s. whereabouts roughly are you in the country?
Edited By peak4 on 29/10/2019 19:16:14
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