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Member postings for peak4

Here is a list of all the postings peak4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Machinery movers?
21/05/2019 12:16:49

Mark, annoying to miss an opportunity die to lack of transport.

For future reference, it might be worth contacting this chap via ebay. Search for "Lathe Transport"; he's based in your county.

I should say, I've never used him, as Steve Cox moved my last lathe for me.


Edited By peak4 on 21/05/2019 12:17:53

Thread: NME&MEX Doncaster
11/05/2019 12:24:51

A good day out, but failed to visit mDRO and Eccentric Engineering to spend some dosh with them, so ended up with all sorts of other bits and bobs, including a 6" rotary table.

Rotary table BNIB (still fully sealed in a poly bag), but with a part of the handle missing, so a suitably large discount. Bought to convert and add to a Divisionmaster controller I bought from John Moore (Bogstandard) in his workshop clearance; just need to source a suitable stepper motor now.

Annoyingly came away without picking up a couple of items I'd viewed on stalls whilst wandering round as I got distracted talking to folks about home made spot welders.

All followed up with a late afternoon/early evening visit to Potteric Carr to watch the birdies.


Thread: Anyone ID this tool?
11/05/2019 12:09:39

A search for "cobblers leather stretching pliers" will elicit results such as THIS


Thread: 7/8" x 5 tpi acme threaded rod
07/05/2019 01:36:58

Certainly available from the USA

I've only seen 3/4" or 1" over here, though you could try This Firm


Thread: Warco lathe Users
05/05/2019 20:27:13

Chris and Ray, I too own a Warco GH1330, though an older imperial one.
The Grizzly manuals, for obvious reasons, cover the machines imported to the US, many of which are imperial, rather than metric like yours.

That said, the machines seem to be very similar;This Link is the nearest one I could find for my machine.

Effectively an imperial GH1340


Now does anyone have a manual for an old Warco 720/730, which were the 1970/1980  Myford Super 7 clones
I have one of these as well, but it's slightly different in some crucial aspects, particularly the main spindle bearings, which seem to be taper roller, rather than the bronze bush.


Edited By peak4 on 05/05/2019 20:30:03

Edited By peak4 on 06/05/2019 00:34:49

Thread: Centec,again
02/05/2019 11:26:51

Frank, I'd certainly be interested to hear about your experiences making one, as I'm after something similar myself.
Did you have to re-mortgage the house for the lump of alloy bar?

I don't think Tony is going to get any more commissioned unfortunately.


28/04/2019 10:39:16
Posted by Steve King 5 on 28/04/2019 10:03:56:

Good morning people

Yesterday I was having a play around with the shaper and for some reason unknown to me the longer the stroke of cut the worse the finish gets. I starts lovely and smooth and gets progressively worse.

Could anyone offer any advice?



I'm no expert with these, having only recently bought one myself.

Are you picking a lower belt speed for the longer stroke? I think the tool velocity increases with the stroke, so for longer workpieces, try dropping the bely one or two grooves on the drive pulley.


Thread: Stainless Steel Metric Fasteners
21/04/2019 00:34:22

Graham, Toolstation is also worth a look, and often cheaper than Screwfix.
I'm sure I recognise your name from somewhere, Ducati, Guzzi??


Thread: Where's my Dykem blue gone - there's no need to read this
19/04/2019 00:07:34

I kept on putting stuff in a safe place and could never find it again.
I had this sudden flash of inspiration and bought a small safe off Gumtree.

Problem cured, but where on earth did I hide the key.


Edited By peak4 on 19/04/2019 00:07:50

Thread: ECLIPSE No 39 Drill Bit Sharpener
10/04/2019 01:18:15

Just found mine whilst packing up to move house; not used it for years.

Essentially, I found it works, sort of.
Clearly the wheels are eccentric on an axle to provide the relief for the cutting edge.
In that sense it works,but I found that, in order to allow the wheels to rotate without skidding on the emery paper, a coarse grade of paper was needed. Too coarse, in my opinion, for a decent sharp edge on the drill bit.

With a finer paper, more appropriate to smaller drill bits, to get a decent finish, the wheels skidded on the abrasive rather than fully rotating.
I think it may work better, if one could add rubber tyres to the white hard plastic wheels, maybe short cross sections of bicycle inner tubes to increase the friction twixt wheels and emery paper.

There's probably a good reason why Eclipse stopped making them. wink

Look up Reliance or Picador jigs to use with a bench grinder, or if you're feeling a bit more flush with cash, maybe the Sealey SMS2008


Thread: Colchester Triumph 7.5" (Round Head) Lathe
07/04/2019 02:01:04

Might This Link be of any use gentlemen.


Thread: Bread Board Wire
06/04/2019 11:06:18

Try "Solderable enamelled coper wire". for instance this one from Farnell


Thread: Centec raising block
03/04/2019 16:23:44
Posted by Gary Wooding on 03/04/2019 15:48:56:

I've made about 20 Centec raising blocks, only two of which were "short" ones, meaning they had to be removed in order to use the m/c for horizontal milling. The remaining 18 were "long" ones which were slid rearwards for vertical milling and slid forwards (with the VH still attached) to act as the overarm.

If you'd care to increase your count to 19, please do let me know. wink



Thread: Rectangular magnetic chucks for milling?
01/04/2019 00:04:48

The issue with swarf is a problem, but an airline helps, provided you don't blow the swarf into daft places.

Obviously you need a good flat surface, on the workpiece to chuck interface,chuck for maximum adhesion, and even then, one can't just plonk the workpiece on the mag chuck an mill away.

It's something I do occasionally, such as when I wanted to take a few thou of a length of thin metal strip for use in the table groove on my bandsaw. I didn't have a protractor cutting guide, so needed to adapt one from a different machine. The metal strip was the right width for the slot, but a shade too thick.

Mag chuck set up on the mill, with a side and end fence to stop anything sliding off. Next to the fence was a length of steel bar a bit thinner than the workpiece, to provide something for the workpiece to butt up against. On the other side of the workpiece was a further bit of steel plate, all to maximise the area in contact with the mag chuck to stop my prospective bandsaw fence from sliding around.

It works fine with light cuts and a sharp milling cutter, though the surface finish can sometimmes be a bit poor due to the swarf scratching it.

I also have a 6" round mag chuck on a Myford backplate which is quite handy for thinning washers a little.
Same basic plan; workpiece bang in the middle, but surrounded by several concentric circles of more thinner washers, or something similar. Seems to work OK for me with very light cuts anbd a home made diamond toolholder.

As I've mentioned before, I've had little formal training, so no-one ever told be it couldn't/shouldn't be done.

I do however have a reasonable level of common sense, and a good sense of self preservation, so I don't stand in the way of an escaping workpiece; not that I've ever had one make a bit for freedom (so far anyway).


Edited By peak4 on 01/04/2019 00:05:41

Thread: AC Capacitor
26/03/2019 00:14:54

Good point folks, sorry I didn't read the first post fully and missed the possibility for a single start/run package.

May I suggest that Raphael finds the model number of the compressor and enters it into the search box on one of the spares websites such as this one. which may well give a definitive answer.


25/03/2019 23:18:22
Posted by RAPHAEL VAL GOLEZ 1 on 25/03/2019 23:11:37:

Thanks Simon, great help. I hope this is an easy fix as I really valued this old compressor. Jus another follow up question, do I need a motor start or motor run capacitor? Is the 450 volts to high for the 270 that I have? I appreciate your explanation, I just don't want to blow things up or fry the motor.

As far as I'm aware, there's no difference between Start and Run capacitors, other than the value required for a given motor. i.e. for a motor which requires separate Start and Run capacitors, their actual capacitance might be different, so it's important to connect the right one in the right part of the circuit.
Re the 415v rating being greater than your 270v, it really doesn't matter, provided that the capacitor has a higher voltage rating then the circuit in which it's connected. You could happily use a 1000v rated one, but it would be more expensive and physically larger.


Thread: 1947 M type myford, imperial or metric ?
25/03/2019 02:27:45

Grant, broadly speaking BSW/BSF and UNC/UNF (AF) spanners, whilst both "Imperial" are not interchangeable.

BA are different again, and whilst sometimes thought of as "Imperial" since they are mainly not of obvious metric measurements, are actually a metric series starting with 0BA as 6mm x 1mm pitch;

N.B. metric spanners don't fit them correctly.

Half way down THIS PAGE is a table which gives the spanner sizes for most common threads.

Re. Allen screws; a set of "Imperial " keys will fit both BSW/BSF and UNC/UNF sockets.


Thread: No7 Taper Pin Source
23/03/2019 01:21:27

Thanks for that Oily Rag, I did make one in the end, well two actually so they should see me out nicely, but I can't remember what material I used.

I turned it between centres from what I remember, using a boring head in the tailstock for the calculated offset, and then fine tuned it with blue. I used a bar twice as long as needed, then swapped end for end and chopped it in half.

The shaper's clapping away quite happily now.


Thread: centec 2a halfnuts
22/03/2019 17:25:28

Somewhere recently I've seen a thread on a chap in Germany who makes half nuts to order, but can't currently find it.
Essentially someone UK was offering to act as g-between as the German chap didn't speak English. I think it was mentioned in a thread about someone restoring a Centec; sorry, best I can remember for now.


Thread: 24v dc motor powering a drill press
22/03/2019 17:13:34

If one types "mobility scooter motor" into ebay or Google and looks at the images of the labels, they all seem to have this strange wattage marking.
i.e. VxA is considerably less than the marked wattage.

e.g 2A 24V 250W, 3A 24V 270W or 11A 24V 950W

I guess the smaller ones are for 4mph scooters and the larger 950W ones are for the 10MPH ones.
I'm also guessing that there may be more info on web sites related to "Robot Wars"

The other well documented source for low voltage motors is ex-treadmills, though I have a 12v 1/4HP one from an Atco Lawnmower.


Looks like we were typing at the same time;

Dave (SOD), which is it, Great minds think alike, or fools seldom differ wink


Edited By peak4 on 22/03/2019 17:17:17

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