Here is a list of all the postings Ady1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Cast Iron vices|
One thing I have noticed with that circular configuration is an incredibly high resistance to bending (where the workpiece rises out of the jaws under pressure) when applying as much pressure as possible.
All steel bends eventually, it's a given
I abandoned doing the lower part of the jaw mechanism because I've never had that problem.
Maybe a circular configuration has a higher resistance to bending than a straight configuration, like flat steel sheet vs corrugated steel sheet
So now I'm wondering whether to make my small vice out of a circular bar instead of a square bar....tsk tsk tsk decisions decisions
Half the problem will be a lack of experience on my part, plus I'm not exactly buying top drawer gear, although my biggest vice failure was about 6 inches capacity and looked like a good bit of gear
However, I have had to push my gear to it's limit on occasion and a steel vice is going to perform better than a cast iron effort when the going gets tuff
Horses for courses
My main reason for posting was because it's a good upgrade to consider for your workshop, not a difficult project to pursue, and is used pretty much every day forever after.
If you look for "solid steel" vices on the netty they aren't common, and they aint cheap.
So a relatively simple project can produce the equivalent of a high quality expensive bit of kit which gets used almost every time you enter your workshop and will probbly outlive you no matter what you make it do over the years.
My next steel one will be a unimat/cowells sized one, for small work.
My 25quid cast iron unimat vice was a luvvly well made bit of kit...broke that one too
Edited By Ady1 on 12/01/2012 12:10:01
|Thread: Angle Grinder Cut Off Saw Attachments any good?|
|The big issues to overcome are the right feed rate, don't force the|
disc through, let it do all the work, a nice straight cut, and stop if
there's any vibration or you'll wreck the cutting disc.
I got some 1mm discs from fleabay but wasn't happy about freehand cutting, it was all a bit hit and miss for me.
So I adapted the arbour in my circular saw to take the cutting discs, which were the same size as the wood cutting wheel.
They felt much safer to use after that, noisy violent stuff, gawd only knows what the neighbours must have thought at the racket, but they cut through pretty much anything you throw at them.
I used mine to chop up a big half inch steel plate into more sensible sizes.
The plate at the back was cut out of the solid with discs, and then the middle chopped out of it.
Took about an hour, an almost impossible task with a manual hacksaw.
So they definitely have their place in a metal workshop
Once you find a stable cutting system, if you have enough discs you can cut up shipyard sized pieces of metal plate up to about an inch thick.
Edited By Ady1 on 11/01/2012 00:37:42
|Thread: Honing bronze cylinder bores|
Delapena used to make good manual hones.
A search using that term might yield some useful results in here and on the netty.
|Thread: Mill spindle trouble?|
Well whatever the reasons are for failure, you should get some sooper dooper VIP service since there's a whole bunch of us zoned in on this thread.
If there's a manufacturing/assembly problem it usually shows up in the first week or so of use.
Computers are the same, if a new computer board bundle survives the first week of use it usually goes on for years.
As an additional precaution, after the bearing is replaced (and preferably every bearing in that shaft is replaced), run the machine through EVERY possible configuration, making it do work in each configuration.
Edited By Ady1 on 09/01/2012 20:47:33
|Thread: T nuts|
Just simple coarse engineering, it takes up to 3 inches of stock.
A 10mm stud is holding things at the moment, when it goes a 12mm will replace it and finally when I can be bothered I'll fit a flush insert with a square thread.
Squareness is the most important thing, which was all done in a single session on a shaper.
Been fine for all my needs so far.
Another advantage is it can be drilled full of holes to fit the shaper, cross slide or milling tables, which are all different dimensions, and with no loss of integrity.
You can't do that with cast iron, it would be fatally weakened.
I use bits of square/flat stock and old vice inserts as required for jaws
Edited By Ady1 on 09/01/2012 10:32:22
|Thread: Mill spindle trouble?|
You'll get a nice purring whirry noise if everything is perfect as a milling cut progresses.
If there are any issues then you'll get various noises and vibration.
Like with a lathe, but with a lathe a good cut produces a nice hiss.
I also drill some strategic holes with a drill bit first when possible.
Drills cost buttons and can be resharpened in seconds and some strategic holes can save a fair amount of work for a slot drill
Edited By Ady1 on 08/01/2012 21:08:00
|Thread: T nuts|
I would make my own, but don't have a vice yet.
Have a go at making a decent vice.
I broke a couple of vices, one of which was a really good one.
Most vices are made of cast iron which is a VERY poor material for tension(the opposite of compression), so a really strong cast iron vice has to be pretty massive.
Cast iron is not bad for compression and has pretty excellent wear properties (lathe beds), but it's not a happy bunny under tension.
I made a very simple steel one from a big round billet plus it's far more compact and stronger than any cast iron equivalent.
It's really just a bolt down g-clamp.
Well worth the effort making one yourself, 99% of vices are cast iron.
A solid steel vice for a lathe is pretty rare, and a tool for life.
Edited By Ady1 on 08/01/2012 13:37:44
|Thread: Milling machine speed range|
Here's a more detailed photo, showing the incredible skills of an amateur.
I stopped at that point, having finally sussed the major hurdle of overcoming those high speed heat problems
Major heat issues on the right with the "high speed" unimat (1000rpm? and oh boy was that a nightmare job)
Moderate heat issues on the left with the drummond on "high speed"(4-500rpm)
Both attempts also needed lots of messy lubrication and there was a lot of stop/start procedures when the heat buildup got too high, jammed cutter issues etc.
Zero heat problems in the middle with the backgear and no messy lubrication required, only some milling marks(50 rpm), and the entire job was all done in a single easy peasy pass.
Sussed at last. phew!
Edited By Ady1 on 05/01/2012 10:15:34
Edited By Ady1 on 05/01/2012 10:31:40
This is an old unimat milling table project of mine.
A first attempt by an amateur at cutting t-slots straight through a solid 12.5mm aluminium plate
The upper and lower t-slots are rough because they were done at higher speeds and had heat issues, vibration marks, sticky swarf and needed lubricating.
Non stop hassle which needed constant care and attention.
The lower slot was done on a unimat...lol, silly me, took about 3 days.
the upper was on the Drummond and was more controlled but still had the usual high speed issues which plague working with aluminium.
So I employed the family braincell and tried a different approach
The t-slot right through the middle of the plate on the left hand side was a complete doddle, done in a single pass with no lubrication on the backgear, and the finish was luvvly.
At amateur levels I find that stiffness and torque are far more user friendly, especially for longer jobs if the machine is doing a lot of work and heat becomes a major factor.
Edited By Ady1 on 05/01/2012 09:38:42
|Thread: handwheel dial gauge|
I restored my old pultra ones with malt vinegar which slowly eats away the rust, pitting, etc...if you leave something in long enough, it eats the metal too...lol
So you check every couple of days, give it a gentle scrub with a toothbrush and dunk them back in until they look good.
Comes up nice with almost zero effort too.
One came up great, the other was too far gone, which was annoying because the original one looked great.
It's a good system to use with delicate stuff because it involves almost zero abrasion.
Edited By Ady1 on 05/01/2012 08:49:17
|Thread: Milling machine speed range|
My old lathe cant do no more than 500 rpm, but it is very stiff for milling work.
I've found that "higher" speeds often create too much heat and can damage the cutter when a lot of work is being done.
Presumably very high speeds would do best with a coolant system.
For things like aluminium using the backgear has worked best for me.
The unit can munch an entire t-slot through an aluminium plate in a single pass because using a slower speed like 50 rpm does not create too much heat, and the stiffness/torque can do the work.
There certainly seems to be a trend towards "high speed" equipment but it should be borne in mind that these speeds can generate an amazing amount of heat, especially if its a big job.
I have also found that 6-8mm max is the best size for my hobby machine when lots of work needs doing, strength and torque.
A two flute cutter is best if you only have a bog standard grinding wheel.
The closer to the centreline the cutter is...the higher the torque.
A t-slot cutter rapidly loses torque because of it's profile, the teeth are a very long way away from the very high torque zone along the centreline
Edited By Ady1 on 05/01/2012 00:24:21
|Thread: Allchin 11/2" scale|
At a recent exhibition I watched a fellow visitor purchase the book and took the opportunity to mention what a task he was letting himself in for......I am sure that he didn't believe me when I said the I had spent 6 years on my model...he might not take that long, but it may well take him two or three years, depending on his other commitments.
Edited By Ady1 on 03/01/2012 20:17:43
|Thread: vertical slide or x1 mill attachment|
Two machine tools are always better than one, more flexibility.
"worst scenario" is the milling slide
second best is the milling attachment
Bestest would be an independent mill which could be attached to the lathe if required.
|Thread: A Happy new Year to One and All|
|Thread: Warco WM-180 or MIni Lathe|
If anyone has a suggestion on a different lathe I should look at then please let me know
Some good drummonds with a bunch of gear come up from time to time, with a bunch of bits, costing a few hundred quid.
Accuracy can be improved with DRO bits on all the older lathes
Have you given up on your Grayson unit?
Edited By Ady1 on 30/12/2011 23:50:55
|Thread: Lard Oil or it's modern day equvalent?|
I think it was Sparey who recommended whale oil.
Apparently it's a very good lubricant.
There may be a Japanese or Norwegian supplier who can help...
|Thread: iPad in the workshop, something to bear in mind!|
While we're on an offish topic subject I have a contribution about a "Ten year rule" which aspiring model engineers may find reassuring.
The original article is bigger.
Teach yourself programming in 10 years. By Perter Norvig
Walk into any bookstore, and you'll see how to Teach Yourself Java in 7 Days alongside endless variations offering to teach Visual Basic, Windows, the Internet, and so on in a few days or hours. I did the following power search at Amazon.com:
pubdate: after 1992 and title: days andand got back 248 hits. The first 78 were computer books (number 79 was Learn Bengali in 30 days). I replaced "days" with "hours" and got remarkably similar results: 253 more books, with 77 computer books followed by Teach Yourself Grammar and Style in 24 Hours at number 78. Out of the top 200 total, 96% were computer books.
The conclusion is that either people are in a big rush to learn about computers, or that computers are somehow fabulously easier to learn than anything else. There are no books on how to learn Beethoven, or Quantum Physics, or even Dog Grooming in a few days. Felleisen et al. give a nod to this trend in their book How to Design Programs, when they say "Bad programming is easy. Idiots can learn it in 21 days, even if they are dummies..............Researchers (Bloom (1985), Bryan & Harter (1899), Hayes (1989), Simmon & Chase (1973)) have shown it takes about ten years to develop expertise in any of a wide variety of areas, including chess playing, music composition, telegraph operation, painting, piano playing, swimming, tennis, and research in neuropsychology and topology. The key is deliberative practice: not just doing it again and again, but challenging yourself with a task that is just beyond your current ability, trying it, analyzing your performance while and after doing it, and correcting any mistakes. Then repeat. And repeat again. There appear to be no real shortcuts: Even Mozart, who was a musical prodigy at age 4, took 13 more years before he began to produce world-class music.
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