Here is a list of all the postings fizzy has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Whistling Cutter|
mine does the same thing if the cutter is turning too fast. I slowed it right down and had much better results, but not before ruining several new cutters!
|Thread: Problems machining brass - Bad finish !|
In addition to the tooling it Sounds like you dont have the tool at exact centre height...I use the same lathe for my small work and if its off height it leaves a rough, orange peel finish.
|Thread: buying copper for boiler makeing|
you may want to go for a lower grade of copper. c106 is top notch stuff and damned expensive, its qualities are designed for tig welding, so it doesnt crack on reheat. Silver solder doesnt affect copper the same way so lower grades are fine. You will also struggle to get c106 in plate form at the thickness you require, and its always best to join same grades of cu.
|Thread: Tig Brazing Copper|
Hello - Im fully conversant with TIG welding copper, practise and material grade etc, but I have boiler plans which state it should be 'Bronze Welded'. I assume this to mean Brazed in more recent terms. Now I dont recon many boiler which have traditionally been oxy brazed were made from deoxygenated, arsnic free copper (C106), and given that oxy has largely been replaced with TIG (I can hear the cries of horror from the olde boys!) I assume that this is the way to go? Ant thoughts on this? I would tig the lot up but a 5" boiler needs more amps than ive got, whilst brazing requires much less energy! My rod of choice would be 2mm copper-phosphorus with possibly 2% silver, tensile strength around 450 N/mm2... these flow very well.
|Thread: Brazing copper|
I built one of these last year but I made a simple T joint as the one on drawings seems way too tricky! Mine ran fine.
|Thread: I want to make a steel 5" loco boiler|
I want to build a steel boiler for my loco, not bothered what type but no one seems to have any drawings - they must exist as the americans seem to mostly use steel. Does anyone know of any, or of someone who would be willing to produce any for me? (paperwork/weld regs easily taken care of).I know the pros and cons of a steel boiler but at the end of the day they cost peanuts to produce compared to copper ones. I have no problems makinf 3 1/2 gauge cu boilers but the tig set goes into meltdown at the amps needed for bigger stuff...and Im not silver soldering it, the cost is horrendous!!
You must not breathe unfiltered air from a compressor unless it is of the oil free variety - definate no no.
hi jon...are you building a minx? i started on that one a few months ago but its turned into a freelance build now! let me know if you need the juliet boiler fixing, I tig weld (and reluctantly solder) cu boilers and so can fix most things. They are a doddle to build and can be done in a single weekend! (not including fittings!)
that sounds about right - just price it out of everyones range. For £5 an hour you can come and use my workshop (no heating though!!)
|Thread: Is it time to give up?|
many thanks all...it looks like someone has confused mok with minx...minx frames with mok gear...and they aint the same! working on it, should be fixable but not hopeful!
checked drawings...Its definately Juliet
not got drawing to hand but looks like Juliet
|Thread: Steel boiler for 5" loco|
Coded welder-yes, steel mill certs-yes (tubes will have to be cu I think), grade of steel-not dictated by blue book....just need some drawings please
I have a Minx and want to make a steel boiler for it. Does anyone know of or have access to drawings for anything suitable please? Doesnt have to be exactly like Minx.
|Thread: Small engines|
Fine if you want to spend one hour machining and seven hours cleaning!
|Thread: Is it time to give up?|
hi john...thats exactly what ive been searching for but have been unable to find. I need to check the position of every moving part, length of links and so on. Something is either too short, too long or in the wrong place! I would love to see this running!! Where in the world are you based?
ive looked at pictures of maid of kent and the valve gear(inside gear) looks completely different to minx. Minx definately has joy gear, no eccentrics but the mok ones have eccentrics
http://www.stationroadsteam.com/archive.htm item 2531 shows the motion on a maid of kent - inside. Its not joy gear and is completely different. Any ideas as the mok drawings are very expensive if theyre not for my engine?
Im very new to steam locos so I bought one which required a major refurb, or so I was told (Minx). Ive replaced and remade just about every moving part, but theres something woefully out of place. I cant get any drawings to find out which bit is wrong and ive no one to help me. I feel thoroughly miseable. Is now the time to give up?
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