Here is a list of all the postings Bazyle has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford S7 Bronze backgear|
His first project should be a mandrel handle so he has something to fall back on when it does fail. It shuld be anyway as it is the best way to learn screwcutting.
Lots of lathes don't have backgear so not a disaster.
If there are no gear suppliers in SA or money is a problem he can measure the gears and start looking in scrap yards for something similar to the larger one. The exact ratio isn't necessary and nor is the material just the distance between centers. Having found the larger one the smaller one can be filed if he doesn't want to get into machine cutting yet.
|Thread: chuck onto rotary table.|
oops, beaten to it.
Edited By Bazyle on 16/02/2012 22:21:28
|Thread: New website editor|
Every forum is different due to the software they use and even with two using the same package the settings used make them different. It's all part of the character and helps you realise which one you are on and so not post boring rubbish about computers on an engineering site.
erm hang on, I am on the geeksysoftwareforum.nut aren't I?
|Thread: RandA lathe|
It needn't stop you. Keep the leadscrew engaged while winding the saddle back. On larger threads you can takeup the slack and position it by eye anyway.
For a simple indicator you can make a 'gear' to engage the leadscrew out of cardboard at a pinch, or plastic or brass to be posh. It only needs the crudest of teeth to keep engaged and provide the count. Just make sure the lash up you concoct to hold it stays in place and isn't where you can knock it..
|Thread: Bandsaw Choice|
Axminster put the manual online but the other's don't.
Note the C & W have 3 speeds - anyone comment on this?
The next bigger Warco advertises a table for vertical cutting not mentioned on the smaller ones or the equivalent Chester. This larger size is sold by Grizzly as the G0622 (Americans don't do small) which I mention as they have the manual online.
|Thread: Price increase for MEW and ME|
David, you're doing a great job. You can have half my pay rise this year.
No shortage of zeros in my Company, it's the £ signs that have gone missing.
|Thread: Making your own case hardening compound.|
In the UK there have been 3 occasions where a pair of brothers split a firm and ran independently. For a while one pair in Birmingham who had been regulars at the Wembley show ran the same the same advert in ME on alternate issues with only the address changed in the small print.
|Thread: Forum niggles|
I'm not sure how to categorise this post but I prefer people to give the thread a title that relates to the content so that it is clear what the subject is and lets later searches find it. Unlike other forums David is very good and has twice renamed a thread at my request.
Some forums on other subjects are full of threads titled "help", "Urgent help..." Lost" "broken down" etc. I don't read everything and like to be able to preselect the topic.
Some people do seem to rush on with a post before doing any research but there again I have occasionally replied without giving it enough thought and get proved wrong by the next contributor.
|Thread: Small workshop projects for 8 - 11 year olds?|
Although Meccano is now most often seen retailed as small kits to build eg a car or robot there is masses on ebay and several full time traders in new and second hand parts. Lots of new standard parts are made in India and I think South America as well as by the legal owners of the name.
Parents are managing to find it. At a recent model railway show where we displayed engineering models but also a meccano beam engine (one member makes something different each year) at least 50% of the kids of both sexes had some and identified with it better than with train models.
|Thread: Clarke cl300 excessive play in cross slide - is it adjustable|
An interesting PDF given above. Someone put a lot of effort into producing it and woudn't it be great to have one for every lathe.
If you pull the cross slide handle towards you with one hand and hold it to take up any slack between it and the saddle, then use the other hand to move the cross slide itself. The movement you get will be the nut both its wear and slackness in the mounting screws. I think you've got a screw loose
The as a different operation if you pull the handle while pushing the slide you will take up the slack in the nut. Keeping this tension on move both hands together back and forth and this will show the slack in the cross slide screw mounting registration.
I think in picture 156 of the pdf you see a ridge on the screw that forms this registration by being trapped between the almost circular boss and the saddle. So I was wrong abut the screw and handle controlling this. Idealy you need some brass shim washers here to take up all but a wisker of slackness.
I see one article about replacing the nice ball handle because the huge cap head screw gets in the way. Just replace the cap head with a normal hex head, with the head skimmed down a bit to minimum thickness, and if available replace the washer with a thinner crincle one too.
I don't have this lathe but it is unlikely that the nut is that bad so soon unless it's made of jelly. My 60 yr old lathe isn't that bad. Grab the cross slide and pull/push it back and forth and see what moves and where there is a gap. You will probably find there is a nut holding the handle on that needs adjusting. It is common for the handle to screw onto the screwed shaft to adjust until it just turns without binding. This is then locked with a nut.
|Thread: Small workshop projects for 8 - 11 year olds?|
If they are at all technical then they will have Meccano so how about making some compatible parts. There are opportunities at all skill levels, from simply drilling to gear cutting.
|Thread: Mashstroy C210T / Warco 220 help please|
Thanks for the details and photos. It is interesting to see if such a mechanism has possibilities elsewhere.
I take it that the friction disc engages with a stepped wheel with 3 different diameters for the feeds and there is some spring to ensure friction, and that is one aspect that needs adjustment from the screw menioned in an early post.
Then the first part of the locking process is to lock the sideways position and then prevent rotation that would reduce the pressure from the aforementioned spring.
It looks like a simple sheet metal catch pivoted on a screw in the casing could be arranged to hold down the lever and by having a sloping engagement face it would be able to apply whatever force was needed. I would put it just to the right so it could be pushed over by thumb as the lever is engaged.
Roger: after reading this I'm sure we would all appreciate some photos of the whole slow speed mechanism if you can manage it.
|Thread: Making eyelets|
Can you varnish the wire when coiled onto the former to keep it in place then dissolve off the varnish afterwards. Shellac might be suitable. Another prossibility is sealing wax as used for sealing letters. Not sure what disloves that though.
Edited By Bazyle on 04/02/2012 23:56:29
|Thread: Teco 7300 motor speed controller|
Unfortunately it has a different switch box with different colour wires.
I hope the man at Newton Tesla Can say how the switch works. I see on his website a different switch unit sold for the Teco so he should understand what is required.
I notice the one you have is sold for the union graduate lathe. This is a woodworking lathe so would not normally need to reverse. Perhaps that is why it is set like this, so you only reverse for a few seconds on that lathe.
I have now been able to open the manual pdf by getting it from the Teco.co.uk website. For others with this device note the parent company site pdf is broken.
David, can we rename this thread "Teco 7300 motor speed controller" for future searches?
I now understand you are in PNP mode and can use the 24v connection.
I think the unit needs a special set of switches. This may be what you have in the pendant but we need to check ( I think it is not because of the way you say it behaves).
what is required ( page 4-23) is this:
a) run switch : push button temporary action.
b) stop switch : normally closed, push to break contacts which can be wired in series with other emergency stop buttons if needed.
c) toggle switch or latching push switch that has two states on and off.
Can you disconnect the Yellow, white, blue leads and measure accross each switch to find if it is open or closed when pressed and whether it latches (stays on).
I think you have a) and b) but not c) and that is why you have to hold the reverse button down so that it is like a latching switch.
Your switch a) which you have connected to the FWD button is actually the RUN button and you get forward by default because switch c) is open and that selects forward direction.
If you hold c) on then it selects reverse when you hit a) RUN. But when you release c) it stops as a safety action.
I do not think it is correct to use 24v. Why have you used this? The pdf for the manual will not work for me off their website so I cannot see the part about wires for the switches.
How did you decide on the wiring to the connector? Was the pendant already wired when you got it and you only wired the 7300 end?
I so not have one of these machines but am looking at the guide on the internet.
The quick start guide for the 7300 does not show 3 switches so I need to read the full manual perhaps. It shows a design for just 2 switches. It looks like you have the brown wire in the wrong place and the white wire should be in S2. I expect the brown wire to go in the position covered by the yellow wire in the picture if that says"com".
However your wiring may be for a different setting of the controls.
At the moment the manual pdf is unreadable on my computer. I will have to try another computer later tonight.
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