Here is a list of all the postings Bazyle has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Lathe motor size and drive upgrade options?|
Yes, John is right it is based on the Hobbymat MD65 chassis. I think I have read that the original company went on to specialise in CNC but probably not common in UK as it was an eastern European company.
An exposed motor is amzingly common. On my hobbymat I just put a cardboard half tube over the end with the away side open. No problem then but 400W will get too hot is unventillated.
You haven't said if it is still working and what the voltage is. Is there a separate power supply? If it is all working but the control voltage is not isolated it might be easier to just connect an RC servo motor up to the control knob. You can't change the speed in miliseconds anyway so this would be plenty fast enough.
|Thread: Nice Vice ?,|
Probably quite capable of giving you years of service. Nothing wrong with pastic jaws I have wooden blocks attached to mine to avoid the nasty rough metal jaws marking the work. There are some idiots who are unable to distinguish the difference between a vice - for holding things to saw and file - and a 3 ton press.
|Thread: Newbie wondering about 5" loco's worth!?!|
You need to get along to your local Model Engineering Society for a face to face chat with someone who can advise you. You won't have to join to get advice as model engineers are an irrepressively friendly bunch. It is likely that the seller if local is a member of one of the local clubs. Manchester being a big place has more than one in the vicinity. You will need to join one anyway to get a serious running track and a boiler certificate. If it doesn't have a current cert walk away.
2-8-0 on 16ft curves - only if you know how to make some new wheels next week. Even if the mid 4 have no flanges the rest will be damaged fairly quickly. Tempting though it is it would be far far more sensible to start off with an 0-6-0 for <3k to learn on.
If you can find a model engineering exhibition to go to locally, say THIS WEEKEND hint hint, it would probably give you a chance to meet some club members and get more advice.
|Thread: Mandrel Handle|
While you are about it add in a big holey disc for indexing.
Not sure of the space on a Myford but I made mine using a boss clamped on the outside of the mandrel leaving the bore clear and the handle just engages the boss with pins like a dog clutch. Instant attachment.
|Thread: myford back gear|
If you look at the place doing the myford spare parts they have exploded parts diagrams for several of the lathes which should allow you to see how it works.
|Thread: Lathe motor size and drive upgrade options?|
At that size for DC motors look around the robots and robot wars type stuff. Also wheelchairs. There is a place something like 4QD that does DC drive speed controls as used on electric locos. And the electric loco motors from Compass or Maxitrack might fit your bill.
|Thread: Lathe question|
I saw some horrible plastic linkbelt at a recent show which seemed rather rigid and hard. I was tempted for a few seconds as the proper stuff is horribly expensive but have since seen a post saying it slips. Newcomers to the hobby might not be aware of the proper fibrous stuff.
Wait five more minutes and Queeny ' queen of the spam' Lin will start a factory making the stuff.
|Thread: White metal - its availability & uses ?|
The bearing metal material has very specific amounts of antimony and copper in with the lead and tin to give it the wear resistant properties. Related to printers' type metal. It is quite amazing that they managed to find the formula with the technology of 400 years ago. Ordinary white metal starts with around equal parts lead and tin so is a form of solder but probably with more unknown 'crud' but it has a low melting point like solder and is therefore easy to cast. Very high levels of tin make it Pewter as in tankards.
It may be that there is a lot of bearing grade around so it gets used for general casting but if you just get the solder version it will be a really crap bearing.
In model engineering bronze is more likely to be used for a bearing but white metal is commonly used for casting axle box/spring assemblies for G1 down to smaller gauges. I'd say G1 is counted as a model engineering rather than a model railway size.
When looking for white metal don' t be fooled by aluminium now used for eg car door handles and carburettas or cast zinc that used to be used for these things and Dinky toys. Zinc will bubble in vinegar, aluminium in caustic soda, pewter won't react with either but white metal might depending on its impurities but not as readily.
|Thread: Engraver taper query|
It is almost certain MI would use a mainstream quality engraver like Taylor Hobson. I only have one T-H cutter and it measures very close to what you quote and the notch above the flat is used on their cutters but I don't know if that is exclusive to them.
Reminds me I must check on my engraver friend from the nearby Marconi Defence. Just hope it's not the same guy.
|Thread: Search Fields|
Pehaps it would help if people would use sensible titles for their topics that describe the content. On lots of forums it bugs me no end that people use topics like "Help", "Urgent. Noobie needs help" etc. On moderated forums and groups the admin will sit on one of these for a couple of days and still let it through. Daft. At least on here David will help by improving a title when asked so the search engine will find it one day.
Even the more experienced will still ask for information having not bothered to use google at all or expect people to use telepathy to identify their lathe and what the problem really is from their garbled description.
|Thread: digital tv switchover|
Exactly. About a third of our club are not active modellers - they just appreciate the like minded company. Most forums have a section for off subject chit chat. The only place I think it is inappropriate is in yahoo groups because of their single section structure.
|Thread: Spin machine|
The inertia during start up is a problem and what burnt out your strimmer.
Is it the machine or its product that is the project? You could improvise something in an hour if it was to be disposed of afterwards. Also what is your budget?
One problem is to attach a ply plate to an axle. If you look in the back of a scrap washing machine you will find many of them have a short axle welded into a 3 branch 'birds foot' to attach to the drum. Another possibility is the base of an office swivle chair. Then just hammer a tube into the ground, insert axle and spin by hand.
If you want to go up market, ie pay money, look for a wood lathe like a Record Coronet on ebay which have a detachable head on a tube base. They have several speeds and tough bearings and a 'faceplate' for the plywood. You know where I'm going next....hammer a bigger tube into the ground....
Edited By Bazyle on 25/02/2012 09:34:45
|Thread: Black Five, Jinty or 4F - 3½" or 5" gauge - for a Beginner?|
According to the other thread you've started so what is it to be?
|Thread: Lathe Leveling|
Helpfull hints for beginners or how to suck eggs for most of you experienced machinists.
The process is mostly only called levelling because a level is used in the process and it is very occasionally helpfull if it is level though that is mostly on milling machines. It is really "untwisting" the bed. A tilt is ok but it needs to be a consistent tilt. Therefore the level does not need to be calibrated, just repeatable which you can check by lifting and replacing it in the same place a dozen times and observing the variation in result. Then set the bed with the same tilt at each end and if that is also dead level then fine but don't sweat over it. If your lathe bed has Vs or other non flat shapes place parallels or eg tool bits on a flat bit to produce a higher reference points.
Rather than taking cuts use a new bar that you have checked for straightness by rolling on a surface plate or milling table, and checked for roundness at the measuring points only with a micrometer.
Mount it in the 3 jaw fairly straight . Mount a dial indicator for horizontal reading at center height.on the saddle or if on cross/top slide pull up all slack and lock them. Rotate the chuck to find the peak reading and mark position with felt pen. Record reading, rotate 180 and read again. It doesn't matter that the chuck/bar is not true - the difference in the readings tells you where the center is. You can cross check by testing at 90 & 270.
Return to mark, run saddle along to far end of bar, take reading, rotate 180, and again the difference tells you where the center is. I don't think it actually matters if the bar is a bannana or your second set of readings is taken at a different rotation of the chuck. The key is you have found the center each time without taking cuts.
You obviously assume the saddle travells down the bed with a consistent relationship to the center line (though not true if it is worn, or long and stressed into a camel). The two centers measured above are the true line of the mandrel in its hopefully true tight bearings so should be the same unless the head is scewed. Costs nothing to adjust and repeat.
When you have got the horizontal sorted repeat on the vertical line using the indicator above the bar.
The tailstock alignment also does not need a cutting operation. Set up a bar between centers and measure where the centerline is in the same way provided your drilled centers are true. If not you can turn just the ends but bot the body which will relieve stresses and create a banana.
A better way is to take the trouble to drill the centers on a better lathe or set up on the steady so you have an unmachined bar with true centers that can be used for setting the topslide inline.
|Thread: How to tune clock bells|
The following is not from experience but what I remember / deduce from reading over the years.
The sound of a bell is a factor of the stiffness of the material and the circumference of the rim hence the size. Trimming the inside (only inside becasue it is not visible) on a thick bell eg cast one is a massively complex job but more to do with all the harmonics and overall sound rather than basic frequency Changing the frequency is more difficult on a small brass bell but might be achieved by hammer hardening and on a steel one by heat treatment to increase the strength and hence stiffness aswell as trimming the size.
A spiral gong is a bit like a piano string where mass per unit length has an effect aswell as length. Some experiment can be done by moving the clamping point to reduce the length before getting out the hacksaw.
Have a look at http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-insert-d.htm
and see if you can work out the size and shape etc it is referring to so you can work out the equivalent from another supplier or a suitable one. Lots of the bits of an iso code like that won't be essential to your application just getting the right size and shape is the thing. You might be better off looking for the commonest and cheapest part that can be adapted. It would be a pity to make it for a part that goes out of favour in production so becomes hard to find.
There is some confusion however . The "11" is probably mm not 11x1/8 as given on that link. Perhaps someone has a better decoder for the ISO standard numbers.
I found CNMG 120408 straight off.
I've just decoded a pack of DCMT 11T308 F2TP30 I found in my junk. Must make a holder before I lose them again.
|Thread: Mill tram|
To start with make a record of which way and by how much it moves every month and plot it. It may be going back and forth due to temperature, or it might be sagging in one direction only as the head weight or cutting force pulls it over.
|Thread: London Model Engineering Exhibition|
I remember a time when that magazine used to count every model at a (different) show and crow about the total. Show jealousy is not exclusive to model engineering as any Landrover enthusiasts will know every year we get a load of tosh about the Billing exhibition.
Looking back at the very first post there is some confusion over the identity of shows. LME is what we used to call Pickets Lock for its first few years. It has only been in those two venues.
The ''daddy of all ME shows' I have attended in Horticultural halls, Wembley, Alexandra Palace, Olympia, Sandown, Ascot, and back to Sandown. I can't remember if it has ever been to Earls Court and Seymore Hall was before my time.
|Thread: NEW MAGAZINE FOR MODEL ENGINEERS|
He could well have a market. In the early days of kit Locos the guys certainly needed a lot of help especially as a high proportion had no idea what model engineering was or the tremendous support system there is for the traditional part of the hobby. Someone who has just spent >£5k on a loco kit will think £25 for the support mag is quite cheap and it is compared to my weekly petrol and food bills.
Although the kits are I understand much better that just means more will be sold to the inexperienced. You only have to read a few forums to see how many people buy lathes with no engineering knowledge nor even the wit to work out what the levers on their shiney lathe do. Lots of "men" even get the AA to mend a puncture these days.
Also I believe there is a massive following for tank kits and other militaria which are not traditional ME subjects. Model boating magazines seem to be mostly about building kits and glossy pictureres of them.
|Thread: Myford S7 Bronze backgear|
Still not a big problem. You want to keep the bronze bit there as a bearing but it doesn't mean the whole gear has to be bronze. When the replacement is found you can turn down the old gear to leave a residual tube at least 2mm thick and soft solder the new one on top provided the new gear when bored still has say 3mm of meat under the teeth.
If the bored gear would end up a bit thin I would try to get the original gear out (heating up the pulley and pressing out with a drift provided you can see teh inner end of the bronze inside teh pulley block) so that the new gear can be silver soldered on to the turned down stub for a bit more strength.
I'm not a Myford owner so perhpas Kwill can give a view on this proposition.
Another thought. For preference the large gear is steel so not broken in a crash and the small gear is 'sacrificial' in something weak like cast iron or aluminium. Fewer teeth to cut for the repair.
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