Here is a list of all the postings Bazyle has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Mashstroy C210T / Warco 220 help please|
Thanks for the details and photos. It is interesting to see if such a mechanism has possibilities elsewhere.
I take it that the friction disc engages with a stepped wheel with 3 different diameters for the feeds and there is some spring to ensure friction, and that is one aspect that needs adjustment from the screw menioned in an early post.
Then the first part of the locking process is to lock the sideways position and then prevent rotation that would reduce the pressure from the aforementioned spring.
It looks like a simple sheet metal catch pivoted on a screw in the casing could be arranged to hold down the lever and by having a sloping engagement face it would be able to apply whatever force was needed. I would put it just to the right so it could be pushed over by thumb as the lever is engaged.
Roger: after reading this I'm sure we would all appreciate some photos of the whole slow speed mechanism if you can manage it.
|Thread: Making eyelets|
Can you varnish the wire when coiled onto the former to keep it in place then dissolve off the varnish afterwards. Shellac might be suitable. Another prossibility is sealing wax as used for sealing letters. Not sure what disloves that though.
Edited By Bazyle on 04/02/2012 23:56:29
|Thread: Teco 7300 motor speed controller|
Unfortunately it has a different switch box with different colour wires.
I hope the man at Newton Tesla Can say how the switch works. I see on his website a different switch unit sold for the Teco so he should understand what is required.
I notice the one you have is sold for the union graduate lathe. This is a woodworking lathe so would not normally need to reverse. Perhaps that is why it is set like this, so you only reverse for a few seconds on that lathe.
I have now been able to open the manual pdf by getting it from the Teco.co.uk website. For others with this device note the parent company site pdf is broken.
David, can we rename this thread "Teco 7300 motor speed controller" for future searches?
I now understand you are in PNP mode and can use the 24v connection.
I think the unit needs a special set of switches. This may be what you have in the pendant but we need to check ( I think it is not because of the way you say it behaves).
what is required ( page 4-23) is this:
a) run switch : push button temporary action.
b) stop switch : normally closed, push to break contacts which can be wired in series with other emergency stop buttons if needed.
c) toggle switch or latching push switch that has two states on and off.
Can you disconnect the Yellow, white, blue leads and measure accross each switch to find if it is open or closed when pressed and whether it latches (stays on).
I think you have a) and b) but not c) and that is why you have to hold the reverse button down so that it is like a latching switch.
Your switch a) which you have connected to the FWD button is actually the RUN button and you get forward by default because switch c) is open and that selects forward direction.
If you hold c) on then it selects reverse when you hit a) RUN. But when you release c) it stops as a safety action.
I do not think it is correct to use 24v. Why have you used this? The pdf for the manual will not work for me off their website so I cannot see the part about wires for the switches.
How did you decide on the wiring to the connector? Was the pendant already wired when you got it and you only wired the 7300 end?
I so not have one of these machines but am looking at the guide on the internet.
The quick start guide for the 7300 does not show 3 switches so I need to read the full manual perhaps. It shows a design for just 2 switches. It looks like you have the brown wire in the wrong place and the white wire should be in S2. I expect the brown wire to go in the position covered by the yellow wire in the picture if that says"com".
However your wiring may be for a different setting of the controls.
At the moment the manual pdf is unreadable on my computer. I will have to try another computer later tonight.
|Thread: Suggestions please Vol3|
I seem to be missing something obvious. Why does it need to count down if you only want it to count in one direction? Do you want 99, 98, 97 or -1 -2 -3? Isn't a mechanical downcounter just an upcounter with the numbers painted on in reverse order?
One engneer won't be able to give significant time for training if you are a complete novice and unable to work it out for yourself. These sort of classes are for people who really know what they are doing and need to pay for access to some big machines not to learn metalwork.
Buy a small lathe and teach yourself and join a club for advice. If you feel you need instruction offer a few bits of brass rod around the club meeting and they will queue up to help. If you don't have room or a shed have a look at the new small Hobbymat lathe - I knew a chap who used the old bigger version of it on his knees in a caravan!
Also have a think about what you are trying to do and why. I shouldn't have mentioned getting a lathe so readily. Only 10% of model engineering is lathework. Lots to do with a vice, a saw and a few files, then maybe a pillar drill. There was a series once in ME about building the Stuart 10V engine without a lathe. (something worth reprinting David?)
|Thread: Milling - what do i need|
Nobody has mentined Clarkson type endmill holders. Are they out of favour now? Is their very positive positioning of the mill not necessary after all?
|Thread: Drilling small holes|
Is the table firm and the work clamped to it? Is the quill when extended able to move sideways? Are you clearing swarf every mm?
Do you need to drill all 3 together? After drilling one spot through to the next and drill separately. 3mm is not a deep hole but 9 mm is in proportion to diameter so more risk of friction & heating.
Do you need to apply pressure or is the weight of the head enough to penetrate? The huge play in the feed mechanism of most pillar drills can cause snatching and sudden stress.
|Thread: Black Five, Jinty or 4F - 3½" or 5" gauge - for a Beginner?|
Trouble with a tender engine is you think you've finished and there's still that tin can on wheels to do.
You really should get along to your local Model Engineering club as even in a non-workshop environment they are full of friendly people who will give advice (and free coffee and biccies at St Albans). Next meeting is 8 Feb and is going to be well worth attending. You needn't worry about getting harassed into joining and they may be able to put you in touch with a 3 1/2 black five builder if he's back in the UK this year. Also by the way club meetings are only the publicsed events; lots of members get together other times too.
|Thread: Threads within threads|
I have just bought 10BA screws only to find I had taken it for granted that small screws would be BA. In fact I needed 1/16x60. I suspect that in the first half of the last century small Whitworth was more common than BA as it was just the natural progression down the series. BA may have been adopted for the new fangled electrical equipment and spread out from there.
It might be interesting to look back at early ME designs to see what was called up but my collection only goes back to 1940's
|Thread: think tank|
The forum is 'immediate' and somewhat ephemeral while the magazine is 'long term'. I think the really good stuff needs distilling into an article in itself so that it is still available in 10-50 years.
Who knows a computer glitch or 'saving disc space' could wipe the lot in 5 years.
|Thread: Storage of taps, dies, slot drills and end mills|
Crayons etc often come in boxes with plastic trays or in plastic wallets that are about the size for taps. I have one annoyingly still full of wax sticks. So I make mini plastic tool rolls with individual pockets for each tap by simply stapling along the seams and have incorporated a paper list of the sizes under another layer of plastic.
|Thread: Lathe turns convex|
As the tri-leva is not a V bed I would first suspect that the saddle is loose and twisted, or a bit of swarf has got in to missalign it. Next the same for the cross slide. Perhaps during the moving process it got jiggled around enough for this, or perhaps it happened to the last owner ages ago and they didn't do the sort of work to notice.
Edited By David Clark 1 on 25/01/2012 20:27:40
|Thread: Beginners first simple clock kit / plans|
John Wilding Egg Timer and its development the Beginner's Clock. Google takes you to the bookshop Russel mentioned and CES do a materials kit.
Not built it yet but I got the materials kit yonks ago when it was serialised. I think as it is very open plan the clock can get to something working then add minute hand and strike later.
|Thread: London Model Engineering Exhibition|
Well that explains the crowd at that part of the stand then, 2 deep when I went by.
What we need is a special feature on here at end of day 1 to say what not to miss. Same with Sandown I didn't read the show thread until after I came back. Doh.
Next one Bristol?
|Thread: Making your own case hardening compound.|
Chalk. CaCo3 Probably mostly as a binder but in heating it gives off CO2 which can keep oxygen away from the surface. If it has been partly 'burnt' the CaO produced might help bind the mix if fresh.
And I think it is bone charcoal so that there are no stray acids from the wood burning. Now I think of it the calcium connection there might be what gave them the idea of adding chalk.
You could probably try adding anything that might be lying around in a 19th century workshop. Honey decomposes via sugar to carbon.
Edited By Bazyle on 23/01/2012 21:23:18
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.