Here is a list of all the postings Bazyle has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: More Workshop space, shall I or not..?|
Just extend the 6x4 shed. It will take less time and probably cost less than the strengthening of the railway benches.
|Thread: Why do we do it?|
I just can't resist adding a comment so that others benefit from my superior intellect. I'm just so generous.
|Thread: 24v dc motor powering a drill press|
If the motor is labelled U/S it is probable an overload (heavy user plus kerb) or overheating (long run uphill) either burnt out the windings or the commutator.
|Thread: A Simple Protective Coating For Steel, Indoors|
Don't use furniture polish in the workshop if you can avoid it as it mostly contains silicone which is the enemy of painting. use a pure beeswax polish on things you are going to handle, including parts of the lathe.
|Thread: 45mm Narrow gauge locomotive drawings|
I think the Kerr Stuart Wren loco design in Engineering in Miniature from 1997 showed a version for 45mm or could be scaled to fit.
|Thread: How Are Letter / Hallmark Punches Made?|
There was an article once in ME , probably Jeynes corner in the sixties, about the punch makers in Sheffield. It didn't say how they did it, rather how they were intensely secretive about their methods. He would have been referring to the turn of the century hand techniques before pantograph die sinkers changed the skill set required.
|Thread: Hello From Devon|
Hello David, inevitable question which bit of Devon are you in? there are several more Devonians on the forum.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
A skip gave me a defunct 100w LED floodlight. Chip dead of course and I wouldn't want something so big. The psu is good but 36v constant current 100w is potted so not worth trying to modify. What use is it except driving LEDs? A new smaller floodlight is cheaper than a replacement lower power psu so I think the heavy alloy casting is best melted down. Must get into this home casting aspect of the hobby.
|Thread: Recommended paint for a FLB redwood external door?|
I don't think you need to be too picky about this. The first thing is not to go for a modern water based acrylic paint. Then unless you live in the paint capital of the world your local shop will only have a choice of two - on cheap generic name or in-house name for the big stores, and a branded version. They may well come from the same factory with the cheaper version just having more kaolin and solvent added instead of active ingredients. Pay particular attention to exposed edges and doing the job when the temperature and humidity are right.
|Thread: Teesside Model Engineers|
Try your local Men's shed. They might not be metal oriented at the moment but probably have some members who are interested as it is an industrial area. You could use them as a base and put an advert on here to ask more MEs to come along.
Same applies to the Tees Cottage situation. Just because they have a track it doesn't mean that is all they do and if you only talk to the engine driver when he is busy firing the loco he is naturally going to be rather preoccupied with that and not able to give you the bigger picture.
Middlesbrough Men's Shed
Bradhope Road, Middlesbrough TS3 7BG, United Kingdom
We are open every Tuesday morning from 10am - 12pm. Sarah Marrison or Laura Ince-Henry Groundwork North East and Cumbria 01642 815663
|Thread: Toolroom lathe?|
Continuing SOD's list:
Genuine tooroom lathes are not necessarily better equipped. For example the CVA QCGB still needs a gear train change halfway through the commonly used range ( 22tpi I think) because in a toolroom the extra time doesn't matter like it would in production. Meanwhile the M300 with its highly convenient dual metric /imperial QCGB cannot be described as toolroom because the metric threads are all approximations.
The OP started by mentioning Smart & Brown. Their big 1024 was a toolroom lathe but the little Boxford sized Sabel was just a small parts and school lathe.
|Thread: Lathe info|
Is this the one posted last month on another forum with a history indicating possible Eastern Block origins?
|Thread: Harrison M300 half nut adjustment|
Since the need to retract and return the topslide has been standard practice for ever there are some aids that have been developed. Some lathes have features build in from new to assist this (eg Holbrooke) see this previous thread on the forum.
|Thread: What is this grinder?|
Note that it does not have a precision adjustment for angle, no scale, no machined edges to the table, no guide groove in the table. Hence it is for roughing everyday tools from the days when people understood that you didn't need a multi-axis complex table just to grind a basic HSS tool. The precision tools eg for screwcutting would have come from the toolroom.
Funny how everyone thinks they can freehand sharpen a drill or wood chisel (which they can't with anything but bodgers accuracy) but think they need a super doper grinding rest for a left hand knife tool.
|Thread: Fed up of all this wind|
Are you aware of Scoraigwind? Planning restrictions prevent most people from having turbines and home sized ones are unlikely to recoup the cost of the planning application.
I too live in a very windy place and logically should be able to benefit from a turbine but my enthusiasm was curbed by the above problems. Perhaps after the oil runs out and electricity hits £5 per KWh it will become viable.
|Thread: Tangential tools ?|
No. HSS is perfectly adequate and fancy tools don't make the job easier nor get a better finish. If you are having trouble put the money into free cutting steel and brass bar and reduce it to swarf. getting some hours in is more useful than a special tool.
|Thread: Boxford Screwcutting box / Leadscrew binding|
Taking the gearbox off is not the first thing to think of when you don't know if it is the gearbox or the saddle.
First run the lathe spindle only to make sure that and the motor are fine with the belts slack in case something does get stiff.
Put oil in the saddle gearbox with a small tray under for the drips. Move the saddle using the handwheel but apply varying amounts of longitudinal pressure to the saddle to see if that a affects it.
Finally try autofeed. If it has problems that is the apron not the gearbox.
I'll post later how to remove the bits.
|Thread: Bolt on chucks|
That is because the previous owner dropped them. Use tank washers as replacements so there is more to get hold of when refitting.
|Thread: Is a hand chamfer worthwhile?|
Didn't we have a 'what to do with old screwdriver' thread recently. One of them plus a bit of silver steel .............
|Thread: Scrollsaw for the occasional user|
The main market for them is for wood cutting so the speeds for cheap ones are relatively high which burns out a blade on metal very quickly. The other problem is small movement so only a few mm of blade is being used but this is necessary because they don't move the blade vertically but just waggle the whole frame about a single pivot. Some try for a pivot on each arm and a parallel motion but it's still not the equivalent of a hand operation.
Seems like time for a MEW design for a steady long stroke machine.
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