Here is a list of all the postings woody1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Machining Hard Materials|
Excellent, thank you guys.
Knowledge of materials and the type of tool to attack with, along with experience seems to be more important than the machine your operating? As long as the machine is not a wrecked of course. Lots to learn!
|Thread: Betalon Belting|
What would be the best way to join? Superb belt (flat) takes a tone of tension. Bought it in my early days and opted for a cut style, tapered ends type. Used super glue from the off but over a period of time its degrades and dis-bonds (couple of months or so)
Edited By woody1 on 12/09/2015 20:55:06
|Thread: Milling on a Lathe|
Sorry, I do lock off the carriage, My problem is with the cross slide. When I feed in, the cross slide gets pulled in the direction of cut in jerks, I imagine that it's the back lash in my machines cross slide. I shall film and post. I hope you understand my explanation Neil.
That may be my problem it was just flat bar bought at my local metal supplier so unknown it is gummy to machine though. I do have some marine ally mostly broken bits off the various boats we'v owned over the years my gave that a try just to see the results. I realised locking everything off is a must but milling on the cross slide horizontally means i need all of my movements. Milling vice would be the way forward, just asking though I'm going to finish all the odd jobs on the machine I have, sell it and buy something bigger which I will invest in a milling vice for.
My attempts at milling on the myford 3'' 1/8'' are pretty poor! I do not have a vertical milling vice, my attempts using V blocks, clamping with T nuts and milling horizontally have been poor. Would this be the factor? If for example I try to mill a 1/4'' slot in ally I get a gouge in the lower of the slot feeding in with the cross and visa versa feeding out. The fly cutter I machined is fine horizontally end mills however just gouge.
Tin hats on
|Thread: Machining Hard Materials|
What machines do you have fellas? My stainless Is generally marine 316 as mentioned Andrew, still a bit hard to turn though. I think I need to improve my ML's cross slide rigidity and backlash.
Just wondering how well your machine deal with hard material. Through naivety when I first bought my lathe I just thought chuck in a lump of stock and make some swarf. Its only a myford 3'' 1/8'' but if I try turning for example an off cut of axel or an ss bolt with HSS tooling no chance! Luckily, I have had donated a load of stock from a machine shop which cuts like butter.
|Thread: 4 Jaw Thread Damage|
Cheers for the advice guys.
I would have used my dremel but I left it in france! Spent about an hour with a file no joy so went shit or bust! Ground a taper on one of the jaw nuts in the lathe (couldn't be bothered turning a taper) ground a single groove like a tap and it worked a treat. put the make do tap through all four as they were a bit stiff and now I have a perfectly perfect chuck
Been a while since I have used the site or my workshop due to studying.
I have however completed and have woken up my Myfor 3'' 1/8'' out of hibernation.
Exactly as I left her but I do have a problem which I would much appreciate advice on solving.
Attached are a couple of images. The first initial threads of number 4 jaw are damaged which Im not sure how to remedy. Was thinking of turning out a tap but not sure of the thread specs? Its not a new chuck by any stretch, I have however put considerable time into machining a back plate. 5'' chuck by my reckoning the labelling is, THE BURNERD, MADE IN ENGLAND.
Edited By woody1 on 09/09/2015 21:11:40
|Thread: Cross Slide Alignment (Facing)|
Afternoon Fellas its been a while.
I would like to check my cross slide's alignment to the head stock. I'm quite un-sure how to test though? I have a pretty good idea my cross slide moves at an angle away from the work guys.
Thought I would ask before fidiling (did do a search before posting). I realise an idicator is needed but where to mount with out getting a false reading?
I have an indicator which I can hold in the 4 jaw. I was thinking of offsetting the indicator low enough so it is able to touch the face of the cross slide.
Edited By woody1 on 12/05/2013 14:56:32
|Thread: Deepish Holes In Square Stock|
Sorry guys, length ways, my bad. My plan is to drill then ream to size. I have had good results with d-bit's (Home made, milled and stoned), pioleted of course. But this is going to be in pre-hardened, approx 35 though. +/- .005'' is good enough. I have standard twists just worried about wonder, as they do so well! Tomorrow I shall practice
|Thread: Tool Post Nut|
I have been educated! Thank you guys, lots here for me to think about. Absolutely fed up of my knob (uh-hum) facing towars the chuck
|Thread: Deepish Holes In Square Stock|
Probably solved the problem myself (in my head, haven't actually attempted it yet). Using the clamping kit, mounting the work on the cross slide? Tool in the 3 jaw? What would you do fellas? Following the rule, 3 x diameter. Need to drill a 3/4'' hole in a piece of 1.5'' square which is 5.5'' long. fixed steady avilable for square stock? Learning slowly boys.
|Thread: Worn Bearings|
Slow response sorry guys, Garrett turbo re-build, new roof on bungalow anyways back to machine's I am refering to ''play'' I have had a little fiddle after reading the comments about tension and more to note cutting forces. Pushing the spindle ''away'' horizontally toward the countershaft and also up vertically give the play. Guessing A bit of wear. I took a pic when I first had the lathe. As a novice I thought the scoring was a minor issue. I dont suffer with chatter though unless I take really deep cuts (+.005/.010 depending on material). The spindle is smoothe as. I'm learning the limits of the machine. Should I just buy something close and machine a new set guys? I did read simply maching a new set and replacing isn't possible. Seeming I had her for free I'm thinking just spend some cash. I hate made in china guys I really dont want to buy one!
I noticed something today about my trusty ml2. When the belts are slack I read .001'' run out, now under tension the run out is .0005''. Can I asume my split bushings are worn guys? I am imagining the tension of the belt is wearing one side of the bushing more than the other?
I made this gauge **LINK** for BSW angle to aid my setting so all is correct. On my machine the protractor is infront of the compound when its paralell so I can do half instead of the full angle. I'll call this thread done guys thanks an absolute million for the help guys wouldn't have been able to do it with out. I shall add a final pic of the finished backplate when done hopefully over the week end.
Edited By woody1 on 06/03/2013 19:24:56
Did an hour before the football started. Didn't manage to get to depth but I am going to call this cracked guys no parting what so ever. The thread profile is a little rough, I'll blame this on tooling and material (rock hard piece of shaft, all but run out of practice scrap!) I did measure the spindle nose and of the half inch that is threaded I count exactly Six crests. A little more practice and I'll be ready to complete
Poor pic quality sorry guys. Ordered my thread gauge looking at tooling now any thoughts fellas? I was looking at RDG brazed tooling? I can't thank you enough guys.
Cheers guys much appreciated. Just about to go down the workshop I'll let you know how I get on.
No dials im afraid on the controls but two DTIs, one on the cross slide to reset zero after a pass and one mounted on the bed to get back to start point zero i was originally using a g clamp and winding back to set zero. I leave my half nut closed just dis-engage back gear after completing a pass and wind backwards using lead screw handle slightly past zero then forward to zero because of backlash. my four jaw backplate is of the wrong size, luckily its smaller so I only need to bore it out and re-thread. Can I use the three jaw for the operaation? For now I am concetrating on external threading my plan is to make a replica of my spindle nose. then move to internal.
Excuse the rust first time out for the gears. The programme states for 12 tpi 45 driven which is on the lead screw and driver 30 which is on the manderal. the other two are idlers? I think this is wrong though. I have read the spindle nose could be 12tpi but also read it could be 8 tpi? I do know how ever my lead screw is 8 tpi. looking at the picture I can see I have the 30 on the leadscrew and the 45 on the manderal doh!
Again thank for your time guys.
Edited By woody1 on 05/03/2013 15:55:35
Sorry a bit vague I'm from cardiff. I was having trouble, i.e parting the thread but managed to suss it. Mounted a dial indicator to the bed but its on its way out, which was why I was getting parts. No thread indicator sorry. I am using back gear for cutting, naturally. Its a slow process without tumble reverse though as you can imagine guys! Couple of pictures of my set up.
Is this the best way to go about the task. Its the best I can think of. I set up the gears using that NPprogramme. Not getting the TPI I would like think its a miss understanding of idler gears. I'll take another pic of my banjo setup.
Cheers for the input guys much appreciated.
Edited By woody1 on 04/03/2013 23:18:34
Edited By woody1 on 04/03/2013 23:40:20
Edited By woody1 on 04/03/2013 23:42:55
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