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Member postings for woody1

Here is a list of all the postings woody1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Long Square Stock
21/05/2020 22:17:03

Evening all, hope well and safe.

I have a bit of a problem, my stock is 32mm X 170mm 6082. I indicate near the chuck then move to the far end and tap with my wooden mallet to get running true. However when I return to the chuck I'm out again and visa versa. I know I'm doing something wrong. Could I have some advice please. Do I need to place the indicator in the same position laterally when I am moving from end to end?

Thank you,

Woody.

Thread: Gifted a Bandsaw
17/05/2020 22:00:55

Cheers guys, just the information I needed, yes that exact one! I'll start on it this week firstly I'm going to sort the guides and add some bearings, its quite loud.

16/05/2020 23:50:36

Sorry, I didn't want to write paragraphs.

Yes! Wood bandsaw "workzone" so Aldi or Lidl special. I'm guessing the motor will be around 1450rpm I'll have a look. I gave it a whirl (no cutting), I'm not impressed even for wood. It's not so much the motor, frame or pulleys, it's more the running gear and especially the quality of the castings!

Would I be correct in saying the castings are heavily toward the zinc side?

It was free, couple of pennies and some time (which i have by the bucket) I wreckon it will be an extra string for my bow.

Woody.

16/05/2020 20:18:22

Evening all, hope well and safe.

I was gifted a bandsaw by a relative after mentioning I was saving for a horizontal saw. It's brand new and still in the box! Could anyone point me in the direction of reduction pulley math. I have no problem fabricating the counter shaft I have just forgotten/lost my information. The machine is shocking quality wise (apart from the motor). Two days, I wreckon I can get it all least serviceable.

Thanks,

Woody.

Thread: Using a cats cradle corectly
15/05/2020 09:36:12

Hi,

A bid disheartened which is all of my own doing. My sleeve was on the thin walled side and flexed so a non starter really, my fixed Steady to, although functional it's a bit heath Robinson and fidely to set up (cannibalised out board head) I have had a nice refresher in indicating stock so not all lost. Before i continue I am going to make a keeper pretty fixed steady. Would the membership think using a centre and faceing each end of the bar would be a good starting point. I just chucked up with sawn ends which are not square.

Thanks.

14/05/2020 09:47:49

Oh I put a dti on my 4jaw chuck body too, I didn't know what to expect really but messing around with the nuts I managed to register 0.001 run out which I think is commendable for a straight bolt on accessory, many thanks to arceuro for a decent product.

14/05/2020 09:42:53

Thanks all apologies to I should have explained better. Well I'm going at it, instead of using an long series drill and clamping stock to the cross I am just going to drill end to end. I just put a dti on my tail stock quill fully expecting to spend an hour or so getting it to running true. Ill I'll be dammed! I checked twice with two different indicators with tailstock at different positions along the bed, the is running true, absolute zero both top and side. I should add that the indicator was fixed to bed. How would I go about mounting an indicator in the chuck to ensure its running centre.

Again,

Thanks woody

13/05/2020 21:51:39

Evening all, hope all safe and well,

What would be the method for mounting stock using the titled, I have never used one. I was thinking to centre stock and cradle at the 4 jaw end, loosen two jaws, flip placing the cradle in the steady and snug everything up with hopefully little adjustment needed. I have everything ready just need to tap the holes for the sleave.

Thanks,

Woody.

Thread: I Have a Plan/s (deep hole drilling)
11/05/2020 21:13:25

I took the plunge today and decided to mount the stock on the crosss slide. It has taken all day to think mainly how to get the stock centred. After some thought and many cups of coffee I finally Sussed it 💡. I turned a piece of round stock to 30mm (same as my square) it ended up 29.95mm. I set the final height of my work by planer thicknesing a piece of mahogany. With my 30mm round centred in the chuck I put the indicator on the head stock zeroed it on the top of the round stock. After removing the round i then brought my square stock to the indicator and am very close to zero. I used a piece of ground bar in the chuck to get parallel and to get centre on this axis I chucked my 30mm bar zeroed my indicator, removed the round and then fed the square in using the cross slide until I got to zero. I hope this all understandable.

After all this messing around I found my 7mm long series has been used by a certain person as an SDS! I took the amalgamation apart as a new drill will take 3 or 4 days to come. When I do again toward the week end it will probably take around 3/4 of day 😁,

Woody.

Thread: Help 11NR14NPT insert
11/05/2020 20:46:26

My bore will be around .749" so I don't think clearance will be an issue.

Thanks guys I didn't see the options, ordered.

11/05/2020 20:20:26

I did see these but they are NPTF which I think is different but thanks.

11/05/2020 19:56:35

I wonder if any of you fine gentle can help or part with some of your wisdom. I need to thread an internal 1/2x14 NPS. However I cannot seem to source the titled insert in the UK. I am not sure if I am looking in the best places. This is my first foray into insert tooling.

Thank you,

Woody.

Thread: I Have a Plan/s (deep hole drilling)
09/05/2020 20:48:54

Evening all, hope well and safe.

I need to drill a straight'ish hole In some square 6082, it will be 180mm long with a finished diameter 19mm for half the depth and 16mm for the other half. Once I have my initial hole I can bore from either end, I'm guessing with a boring bar?

Anyway I have two approaches for the I initial hole but Im not sure which to pursue. Max I have drill size is 14mm in jobber and extra long with a few other sizes the same. Using the 7x12 Clarke I can either drill half way using a cats cradle to support the stock then reverse using a M2 jobber length in the tail stock or. Mount my 250 long 14mm drill in the four jaw, mount my stock on the cross and do the entire length in one go. With this method I would turn a sleeve for the long drills and mount them in the steady about half way then remove it to drill the rest. I will in either case have to use a 7mm to start then the 14mm. I have tried going straight in with a 14mm but know dice. Max the machine is happy with is 10mm I chose 7mm to start because I find it you go to close to your finish size drill it tends to encourage wonder (not sure if that's just me). I hope this is understand.

Thank you,

Woody.

Thread: 4 jaw Independent for a 7x12
01/05/2020 19:42:07

Thanks for the advice, bought the 80mm (for now) thanks Ron. I have a plan for drilling/boring a 200mm long hole on a 7x12.

Material is 6082 ally 1 1/4. Ill write it out and update.

Thanks fellas.

25/04/2020 21:21:18

Oh yeah, I'm not a fan of machine mart too. The staff are always pretty much useless but nice as pie. It was a buy on credit, I should have looked better, I'll end up paying 700 odd bits for the sucker. But hey ho it happens.

25/04/2020 21:16:30

Cheers for the responces guys, I haven't had the 3 jaw off yet but it is 80mm. Register, god knows, it is labelled, batch no:19s, I'm guessing that means 2019 summer? I'd rather not machine a back plate, plus to the fact, chuck stick out more= less rigidity. Ill whip it off and measure up. I would much rather a buy. I will have a look in morn. Again thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

Woody.

24/04/2020 21:10:33

Evening all hope well and safe,

Can any of you kind gentlemen recommend a chuck, my machine is the cl300m. I can buy one £80 from machine mart. I don't know about the quality of what I'm looking at, I would go max a £100. I can see some in £50/80 bracket from chronos to a shocking allly looking cast afair! Obviously I will be giving the latter a very wide berth!

Thanks again.

Thread: Fixed Steady for Square Stock
21/04/2020 23:57:19
Posted by Nigel Graham 2 on 21/04/2020 23:21:58:

One suggestion:

Clean up a section of the bar near the tail end.

Turn a simple cylindrical bush, generously thick-walled, to be a tight push-fit on that area.

You might want to fit a grub-screw that will sink below the outer surface and touch one of the flats (use a shim pad to protect the surface), as the bush contacts the work-piece only on the edges.

Now support the work in the 4-jaw with the steady running on the bush - but ensure accurate centring in the chuck otherwise the outer end of the bar will try to move in a circle exaggerating the error, and cause a lot of problems.

'

Another, based on a long-established trick for good-quality square bar, is to make two such bushes, both a tight push-fit. The first as above, the other split along its length to be gripped wrapped round the stock, in a 3-jaw chuck.

'

Probably the ideal way for a task like that is to use a between-centres boring-bar if you have those and a T-slotted saddle on your lathe. You would still use a long drill for the pilot hole.

I understand mount the work on the T-slotted, boring bar between centres and use the feed. The 7x12's however don't have slots! A major faux paux in my opinion! I dont think a T-slotted is possible for me. Im thinking to buy a spare cross to use and brutalise as a clamping table. There only £30.

21/04/2020 23:35:58
Posted by Nigel Graham 2 on 21/04/2020 23:21:58:

One suggestion:

Clean up a section of the bar near the tail end.

Turn a simple cylindrical bush, generously thick-walled, to be a tight push-fit on that area.

You might want to fit a grub-screw that will sink below the outer surface and touch one of the flats (use a shim pad to protect the surface), as the bush contacts the work-piece only on the edges.

Now support the work in the 4-jaw with the steady running on the bush - but ensure accurate centring in the chuck otherwise the outer end of the bar will try to move in a circle exaggerating the error, and cause a lot of problems.

'

Another, based on a long-established trick for good-quality square bar, is to make two such bushes, both a tight push-fit. The first as above, the other split along its length to be gripped wrapped round the stock, in a 3-jaw chuck.

'

Probably the ideal way for a task like that is to use a between-centres boring-bar if you have those and a T-slotted saddle on your lathe. You would still use a long drill for the pilot hole.

Thank you,

Another way to skin a cat! I have made and use a tonne of machined and split DOM tubing to hold work I don't want to mar. This is serious knowledge! So simple when you think about it but hey I'm not ace (yet).

Also how does between centre boring work?

Thanks a million.

21/04/2020 23:17:53

Its been a long day grinding valves, I think the compound has got in my veins! I have been think about it all day and how to solve but the bearing in a housing just kept seeming to be the logic. It would work in the same way as a cats cradle but would take a tonne of work, time and a lot swearing to produce.

 

Again thanks, I can relax now.

Edited By woody1 on 21/04/2020 23:23:04

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