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Member postings for woody1

Here is a list of all the postings woody1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Drilling addition holes for gib screws has caused distortions in the slide
13/11/2020 21:21:29
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 13/11/2020 18:52:34:
Posted by woody1 on 13/11/2020 18:27:01:

May I ask the purpose of the dowels please?

.

They provide longitudinal location ... which prevents the gib ‘riding up’ on the tips of the screws, which would effectively tighten the gib.

Very nicely explained by the much-revered Geo. H. Thomas

MichaelG.

Sorry excuse my ignorance,

So if I locate my gib with said dowels I will gain smoother travel throughout my compounds travel?

How do I install the dowells? Big hammer (joke). I'm flumxed on how to do.

Thank you old mart to for your reply and replies on my other threads.

Sorry for hijacking this thread.

Woody.

Thread: Cutting copper tube square
13/11/2020 18:42:08
Posted by Mike Poole on 13/11/2020 17:36:16:

A large V block or couple of angle plates could hold the tube square to a surface plate and then scribe a line all the way round, once marked out you should be able to carefully file to the line which should be then be pretty square.

Mike

Edited By Mike Poole on 13/11/2020 17:37:26

This^^^

I have done with a belt sander clamped to my bench as well as the v block. To be honest it should be taken as a chance to learn file work. Once you have the feel it's a well learned notch on your belt.

Clamping very gently in lathe and going at it with a bench grinder by hand is perfectly acceptable also.

Woody.

Thread: Drilling addition holes for gib screws has caused distortions in the slide
13/11/2020 18:27:01
Posted by old mart on 13/11/2020 17:50:27:

I don't think any harm has been done, I would not have been content with only three screws. The high points are easy to deal with and its a compound, which gets less used than other parts of the lathe and can be kept a little on the tight side anyway. This NOS compound I picked up recently has six, and also two dowels, right near the edge.

 

_igp2657.jpg

Edited By old mart on 13/11/2020 17:51:16

May I ask the purpose of the dowels please?

 

Also are slot fixings better, I find Allen grubs strip of there hex pretty easily.

Edited By woody1 on 13/11/2020 18:29:03

12/11/2020 21:35:19

My couple pence worth, I am not a pro, you,

 

You may have gone undersize on the holes, I'm not blaming anyonewink

I think the idea for the extra fixings is to clamp up the compound without having to adjust the other three. I get a perfectly acceptable finish with the three. However I have found with a GIB type tool post and solid base I get far more rigidity, better depth of cut, chatter and surface finish. I only use my compound when I need it which is not that often, heck with the solid base I thread with none of the 30degree nonsense, it chunks out. A far superior mod.

 

Woody.

Edited By woody1 on 12/11/2020 21:37:48

Thread: Sieg C1 lathe autofeed and screw cutting
12/11/2020 19:26:10
Posted by not done it yet on 12/11/2020 07:00:37:
Posted by woody1 on 11/11/2020 21:38:24:

Threading can sometimes turn into a "bain of your life thing", if I can get away with a die on smaller diameters happy days. On larger diameters I have found roughing with a single point then finish with the die, a far better operation all round, in both speed and finish. My machine is a cl300m I don't know how that compares to a C1?

Woody.

In addition to the above points, threading larger diameters (particularly of coarse threads) can be very hard work if using a die. Also single pointing assures the thread is properly aligned with the material being cut, before finishing with a die.

Tell me about it, I machined an entire air rifle block with a thread of 1/2" X 14nps so quite course. Left this until last got lazy didn't rough enough and the tap went in not even remotely perpendicular. 2 days of work lost. It happens but learn from your mistakes and all thatcrying

Thread: 7x12 Bearing Spacer
12/11/2020 19:12:24

Cheers for the replies, just to clarify I have angular contacts from arc. I machined a spacer 30mm x 39m x 31.5mm. if doesn't fit its not the end of the world. I'll let you guys know for a future reference if needed.

Thanks,

Woody.

Thread: Sieg C1 lathe autofeed and screw cutting
11/11/2020 21:38:24

Threading can sometimes turn into a "bain of your life thing", if I can get away with a die on smaller diameters happy days. On larger diameters I have found roughing with a single point then finish with the die, a far better operation all round, in both speed and finish. My machine is a cl300m I don't know how that compares to a C1?

Woody.

Thread: 7x12 Bearing Spacer
11/11/2020 21:05:54

Thank you for the reply,

Cue all cl300m experts.

I actually found a pair of suspension springs the other day whilst walking the dog and brought them home. Bloody litterers I could go nuts.

11/11/2020 20:14:02

Evening all, hope we'll and safe,

Would any of you kind gentleman know the dimensions of the spacer between the rear bearing and c-nut's (Clarke cl300m) I bought my angular contacts (thanks again ARC) but I really want to make a new spacer. The one on is plastic and is also bulging quite visibly at the c-nut end.

I have made some measurements, bore 30mm based on the inside diameter of the new bearings, outside 38.70mm and length 30mm. I want to get it right to avoid taking the machine apart multiple times.

Thanks,

Woody.

Thread: Cl300m Bearing and Belt Advice
04/10/2020 12:49:10

Ordered, I have polished the gibs. Iv also ordered some nuts to make an anti backlash arrangement. As I said the machine chunks out material. It's just surface finish. I find myself juggling dimensions, i.e if I want 10mm I turn to 10.3 then get the Emery cloth out. Not ideal I know.

01/10/2020 10:55:10

Thanks for that I will look in to it. Do you think the poly belt conversion would be a worthwhile project or should I just stick with the toothed.

Thanks.

29/09/2020 20:13:28

Evening all, hope we'll and safe,

Excuse my absence (France, without a machine   . and thank you all for the deep hole drilling advice, I have it down to a tee

I'm after a bit of "what would you have done extra/done different" advice whilst replacing the bearings seeming the machine is going to be in bits.

Firstly Should I go angular contact or taper? I pretty happy with the machine, chunks out free machining, 1mm cuts no problem. My aim really is to improve finish (which is not acceptable in my opinion) and hopefully quite it down a bit. When the rpm's are cranked up it doesn't fill me with confidence!

Also in relation to finish and generally making the machine more smooth would I benefit from changing the running gear from toothed drive (which I'm not a fan of) to a v belt system? I'm not talking an external stepper arrangement just replacing the motor and spindle pullies. I have no idea if this even possible I haven't had the machine apart yet.

On a side note I fabbed up a 12v tool post drill today thank you member Neil Wyatt for the idea.

Regards,

 

Woody.

 

 

On a side note

Edited By woody1 on 29/09/2020 20:14:03

Thread: Macrome tools
28/09/2020 20:17:49

I have no information to give, I was however given a tonne of end mills recentl a lot of them still waxed, all say macrome on them.

Woody.

Thread: K72-80 Chuck Disassembly
14/06/2020 20:05:41

Thanks guys, I used a bent punch, didn't have to completely remove the yolks, dressed everything up and the chuck is a lot more smooth. All I have to do now is learn how not to tread chucks like a vice!

13/06/2020 20:15:26

Evening all, hope well and safe,

I have the 80mm 4jaw and have buggered one of the t-slots for want of a better word. It's just a couple of burrs toward the centre. I'm struggling to explain. I think where I have been ham fisted the leading edge of the screw (for want of a better word) has caught on top of the t-slot due to the load and cased three burrs.

Would any of you kind gents know how I get the screws (scrolls perhaps) out. I can se there are threaded plugs in the rear which will be the way to go. However I'm not sure if threaded (right or left) or just pushed in which I highly doubt.

Excuse my rubbish explanation.

Thread: Machine Stalls and Observations
23/05/2020 22:09:59

Will give it a go, however? How do I radius the nose. As an example, I grind up the so called finishing tool to a sharp point and then stone a radius. It doesn't really matter the tool as such. As soon as I radius then check with a straight edge the tool tip is always to far gone. I can grind, I fettled for 18 month solid, but the business end I just can't get right.

Thanks.

23/05/2020 21:24:02

Evening all, hope well and safe.

I had a few hours spare and made some observations which I think I should share. First, which is not a Big one, I found if I get the cheap brazed carbide tools to almost centre and shim the business end only increasing the rake they are much more willing.

Second, which is my main point is machine stalls. Regardless of the above (tool shimming). if I push depth of cut I get stalls. However the stalling of the machine only occurs at the end of the cut. I.e feeding toward the head stock I get a stall close to the chuck. Feeding away from the chuck I get a stall close to the tail end. The stock i was wasting I know too, 6082, 6069 bar and a piece of 50mm X 40mm tube (unknown) the tube was the worst offender.

I also found there is a very fine line between happy and stall territory. Any thoughts would be much appreciated, I am struggling to put a logical explanation on it.

Thanks,

Woody.

Thread: Long Square Stock
22/05/2020 19:49:38

Thanks for the tips,

I got it Sussed . First attempt was a failure, second third and forth all improved and set up time is down to 20mins. I learned my mistake. I was clamping chuck end to firmly to soon. I found if I clamp the jaws loose about .002" move to the tail, tap to get within .002" and repeat the process slowly increasing clamping force I can get to almost zero both ends. I also found my punch mark was way to aggressive and the centre just kept springing the stock back.

So my method goes, mount stock with sleeve and steady in place, indicate either side of set up ( difficult with the limited space), put fingers of the steady in place and then remove tail stock/centre and a final indicate🙂.

Thanks once again for poking me in the right direction, I'm well happy, I thought something was drastically wrong.

Woody.

22/05/2020 09:09:51

Thanks for the advice, yes I'm going to drill but need to do so from either end then bore to final size. I have my steady and suitable sleeve. I'm just waiting for bearings to arrive. Just mocking everything up and playing in the meantime to get the best set up.

Thanks,

Woody.

21/05/2020 22:17:03

Evening all, hope well and safe.

I have a bit of a problem, my stock is 32mm X 170mm 6082. I indicate near the chuck then move to the far end and tap with my wooden mallet to get running true. However when I return to the chuck I'm out again and visa versa. I know I'm doing something wrong. Could I have some advice please. Do I need to place the indicator in the same position laterally when I am moving from end to end?

Thank you,

Woody.

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