Here is a list of all the postings Swarf, Mostly! has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Lead Bearing Solder is Banned|
I'm no expert on landfill sites but such acquaintance as I did have told me that the modern sites are separated from groundwater by impermeable membranes.
Hi there, all,
I've recently replaced three electrolytic capacitors on one of the printed boards in my computer monitor. (It didn't cure the fault so trouble-shooting continues! )
The boards were manufactured using lead-free solder. In order to free the joints to enable the old capacitors to be removed, I first had to flood them with 60/40 solder. I know I wouldn't have had anything like the same struggle if the boards had been assembled using 60/40.
As a microscopist of my acquaintance says 'if lead-free solder were any good, the Romans would have used it!'!
My reel of fine-gauge 60/40 Ersin Multicore is down to the last layer on the spool. I have several wooden reels of 60/40 Ersin Multicore in stock which would 'see me out' except that it is of the gauge we used to use to solder the tags on Octal valve-holders!!!!!
|Thread: Myford Super 7 quick change gearbox fitting|
The ML7 lead-screw is 5/8" diameter, the Super Seven lead-screw is 3/4" diameter.
However, the left-hand end of the 3/4" lead-screw for use with the gearbox and Super Seven is reduced to 5/8" diameter so it passes through a bore in the gear-box casing. The coupling sleeve between the 3/4" and the 5/8" sections is secured with two roll-pins - it fouls the lead-screw guard attached to the saddle so one of the instructions is to shorten the lead-screw guard. I had to shorten mine by about 3/4" more than specified to avoid losing saddle travel.
Later models of the ML7 lead-screw (non gear-box version) have two Woodruff key slots so you still have one after you've shortened the lead-screw. Early lead-screws only had a single Woodruff key slot.
Hi there, Kevin,
Do you have the installation Instructions for the gearbox? If not, I suggest you obtain one and read it. (I believe they are available on-line, maybe from the 'Files' section of the of the Yahoo Myford group. )
Does your lathe have the necessary tapped holes (¼" BSF ) in the front shear of the bed? They are between the two holes that have the push-screws that push the head-stock against the back shear. Some early lathes didn't have them, mine included, so I had to drill and tap them. Beeston Myford used to offer a drilling jig for this purpose, though they denied all knowledge when I phoned until I was connected to the late lamented Malcolm - he found me one. You temporarily remove the push-screws and use their tapped holes to hold the drilling jig.
The gearbox has a third screw at a lower level - that fixed into an existing tapped hole, from memory, one that previously held the left-hand lead-screw bracket.
|Thread: Gear cutting|
It might be a good idea to practice on a piece of tidy scrap (but the same as the real job) material first?
|Thread: ML7 clutch repair/overhaul|
Hi there, Bill,
Do you mean ML7 or Super 7? The two clutches are very different!
The ML7 clutch should respond to treatment without any nasty surprises (though you maybe need to be careful not to lose the two small bits of red fibre that ride in the brass spool on the right-hand end of the push-rod! )
|Thread: What bearings for a submersible wheelchair?|
My choice would be a fabric reinforced grade of Tufnol, with the grain going the right way. There used to be a material trade-named 'Ferrobestos' used for propellor shaft stern tube bearings but I guess the 'bestos' bit makes it a No-No nowadays.
On the strength of many years experience, I'd say that metal items don't have to be immersed to suffer corrosion in a chlorinated swimming pool environment.
However, I thought 'the modern thing' with swimming pools was ozone or ultra-violet sterilisation.
|Thread: Three flute drills|
I have several three and four flute core drills. I use them in the lathe to open up smaller drilled holes but I don't think I'm getting (or needing) their full benefit.
Now, If I were machining a casting that had cored holes I think that would show their full benefit. A cored hole could, as cast, be slightly out of position but the lateral rigidity of the core drill will cope better with cutting more on one side than on the other - a common two-flute drill will try to follow the path of least resistance resulting in a hole of correct size but (slightly) in the wrong place! Of course, the context here is use in a machine that can position the drill axis in the right place by some means other than needing a centre punch mark.
The core drills I have do not have a point but have an almost flat business end. They cannot start a hole on their own.
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 05/10/2018 17:01:28
|Thread: Rocol RTD shelf life|
Hoping, as usual, that the following isn't too far off-topic:
At very low temperatures, tin can change from a shiny metal to an amorphous grey powder. (I suppose that, strictly, it remains a metal but you know what I mean.)
It was my understanding that some of Shackleton's supplies had suffered this - maybe it was Scott's. Loss of the tin coating opens the steel of the can to rust.
My chemistry text book contained a story that the Russian government bought a consignment of tin ingots and stowed them in an unheated cellar. When the cellar was opened sometime later, there was considerable consternation!!
Again, I hope this contribution will not be too far off-topic:
When my late-wife was shopping in preparation for entertaining guests for dinner, she would attempt to arrive at the cheese counter and intercept the shop assistant when she was removing cheese from display because it was 'best-before date-expired' - she (my late wife) reckoned that was just when the cheese was ripe!
But her best story was of a visit to the food hall of an up-market department store in High Street, Kensington:
Shop assistant: 'May I help you, madam? '
|Thread: Marine Plastic|
Two contributions, meant to be helpful:
Regarding plastic identification - Delrin (acetal) burns with an INVISIBLE flame.
Regarding Tufnol - a good material but you need to get the right grade. Fabric reinforced rather than paper and with the grain going the right way for the application.
|Thread: Hut Consumer Unit & MCB Question|
Slightly off-topic (but not too far, I hope) :
I read somewhere that the current rating of a twin 13 amp socket is 13 amps, TOTAL.
That is, if I'm drawing 10 amps from one socket, I mustn't draw more than 3 amps from the other one! And likewise for other share ratios.
|Thread: Another workshop insulation question|
Plus one for: 'For insulation material, look on the Secondsandco website (https://www.secondsandco.co.uk) '.
|Thread: What has happened to fly spray?|
I have noticed that what I take to be first generation worker wasps are smaller than later generations. I always thought that this was because that first generation have to be raised by the queen wasp on her own.
|Thread: First Thoughts on Anodising|
Re HARD anodising:
Many years ago I had visibility of a project that employed many aluminium alloy parts that were hard anodised. So, the following from memory:
It was found that hard anodised parts 'grow' by an amount that will prevent close fitting of parts but is not always easy to predict. It was also found that the hard anodising film is vulnerable at sharp corners and sharp edges. So sharp corners and edges had to be rounded.
|Thread: What has happened to fly spray?|
I'm not saying I believe this but it's cheap so I'm trying it anyway!
A friend told me they'd kept the wasps away from a family barbecue by deploying a few 'Waspinators' around the barbecue site. The Waspinator resembles a nest, see Amazon. The makers claim that wasps are territorial and stay away from the site of an existing nest.
Some years ago I had a 3 inch wasp nest hanging from the workshop ceiling. It didn't get any bigger or show any activity so I figured the insecticide in the treated timber had been the end of the wasps as they gathered their building material. (Have you ever sat quietly beside a fence or other wood while a wasp is gathering? Their chewing as they gather the wood fibres is quite audible.)
More recently, I had to expel a queen wasp that was investigating the inside of my workshop. So I bought a couple of Waspinators and hung one up in the workshop. So far, so good.
I do have some reservations - the instructions claim that a Waspinator installed in the roof space of a house will deter wasps from nesting there. It caused me to wonder if this means wasps can see in the dark?!?! Or are they impregnated with some pheromone? (That's the Waspinator, not the wasps! )
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 17/09/2018 11:14:48
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 17/09/2018 11:16:56
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Mounting Blocks|
Hi there, Nick,
Go to the Myford web-site, click on Super 7, click on 'Motorising Assembly' and scroll down to where 'Exploded diagram' is mentioned. Then click on the button that expands the diagram.
This works for all the major sub-assemblies of the lathe (and for those of the ML7 on tha ML7 page) and the diagrams are down-loadable as .pdf files. Right click and follow the 'save image as' routine.
|Thread: Myford Tri-Leva Oils|
Hi there, Richard,
I second Hopper's second paragraph.
I buy my H32 oil from my local agricultural engineers shop. It's the same stuff farmers use in the hydraulic gubbins that adorns the rear of their tractors. You don't survive as a farmer if you're careless about chasing for the best value, i.e. the best quality/price ratio!
Despite the Myford's 'total loss' lubrication system, a 5 litre flagon of H32 lasts a good while.
|Thread: New member from Essex with a Few Myfords|
You need to keep them bolted down firmly!
Mine started from Beeston, Nottingham, of course, then went to Croydon. From there it (she?) moved to just North of Romford, then to just South East of Romford. She then escaped from Romford and spent a year or so in a refuge just outside Chelmsford. When she was liberated from there, she found a new home in Southampton.
However, that only lasted for three years and for the last eighteen years she's been serving me well here in East Hampshire.
The pro-Myford vs anti-Myford dialogue seems to be a permanent feature of this forum. My position is that, in 1970 when I bought my ML7, South Bends were fairly rare (and expensive) as were the Boxford and other English clones. I didn't want an earlier Myford or a Flexispeed or a Gamage or their ilk. As I wasn't a technical college lecturer, I didn't have access to a friendly-priced cast-off Holbrook or similar. But 'everyone' knew about the ML7 so I bought one (second hand). Since that time, it has served me well and the only problems encountered (apart from that awful oil-gun!!!) have been between the operator's ears.
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 31/08/2018 10:17:19
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
It looks like the early bird got the worm!
(I'll get me coat.)
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