Here is a list of all the postings Swarf, Mostly! has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Marine Plastic|
Two contributions, meant to be helpful:
Regarding plastic identification - Delrin (acetal) burns with an INVISIBLE flame.
Regarding Tufnol - a good material but you need to get the right grade. Fabric reinforced rather than paper and with the grain going the right way for the application.
|Thread: Hut Consumer Unit & MCB Question|
Slightly off-topic (but not too far, I hope) :
I read somewhere that the current rating of a twin 13 amp socket is 13 amps, TOTAL.
That is, if I'm drawing 10 amps from one socket, I mustn't draw more than 3 amps from the other one! And likewise for other share ratios.
|Thread: Another workshop insulation question|
Plus one for: 'For insulation material, look on the Secondsandco website (https://www.secondsandco.co.uk) '.
|Thread: What has happened to fly spray?|
I have noticed that what I take to be first generation worker wasps are smaller than later generations. I always thought that this was because that first generation have to be raised by the queen wasp on her own.
|Thread: First Thoughts on Anodising|
Re HARD anodising:
Many years ago I had visibility of a project that employed many aluminium alloy parts that were hard anodised. So, the following from memory:
It was found that hard anodised parts 'grow' by an amount that will prevent close fitting of parts but is not always easy to predict. It was also found that the hard anodising film is vulnerable at sharp corners and sharp edges. So sharp corners and edges had to be rounded.
|Thread: What has happened to fly spray?|
I'm not saying I believe this but it's cheap so I'm trying it anyway!
A friend told me they'd kept the wasps away from a family barbecue by deploying a few 'Waspinators' around the barbecue site. The Waspinator resembles a nest, see Amazon. The makers claim that wasps are territorial and stay away from the site of an existing nest.
Some years ago I had a 3 inch wasp nest hanging from the workshop ceiling. It didn't get any bigger or show any activity so I figured the insecticide in the treated timber had been the end of the wasps as they gathered their building material. (Have you ever sat quietly beside a fence or other wood while a wasp is gathering? Their chewing as they gather the wood fibres is quite audible.)
More recently, I had to expel a queen wasp that was investigating the inside of my workshop. So I bought a couple of Waspinators and hung one up in the workshop. So far, so good.
I do have some reservations - the instructions claim that a Waspinator installed in the roof space of a house will deter wasps from nesting there. It caused me to wonder if this means wasps can see in the dark?!?! Or are they impregnated with some pheromone? (That's the Waspinator, not the wasps! )
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 17/09/2018 11:14:48
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 17/09/2018 11:16:56
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Mounting Blocks|
Hi there, Nick,
Go to the Myford web-site, click on Super 7, click on 'Motorising Assembly' and scroll down to where 'Exploded diagram' is mentioned. Then click on the button that expands the diagram.
This works for all the major sub-assemblies of the lathe (and for those of the ML7 on tha ML7 page) and the diagrams are down-loadable as .pdf files. Right click and follow the 'save image as' routine.
|Thread: Myford Tri-Leva Oils|
Hi there, Richard,
I second Hopper's second paragraph.
I buy my H32 oil from my local agricultural engineers shop. It's the same stuff farmers use in the hydraulic gubbins that adorns the rear of their tractors. You don't survive as a farmer if you're careless about chasing for the best value, i.e. the best quality/price ratio!
Despite the Myford's 'total loss' lubrication system, a 5 litre flagon of H32 lasts a good while.
|Thread: New member from Essex with a Few Myfords|
You need to keep them bolted down firmly!
Mine started from Beeston, Nottingham, of course, then went to Croydon. From there it (she?) moved to just North of Romford, then to just South East of Romford. She then escaped from Romford and spent a year or so in a refuge just outside Chelmsford. When she was liberated from there, she found a new home in Southampton.
However, that only lasted for three years and for the last eighteen years she's been serving me well here in East Hampshire.
The pro-Myford vs anti-Myford dialogue seems to be a permanent feature of this forum. My position is that, in 1970 when I bought my ML7, South Bends were fairly rare (and expensive) as were the Boxford and other English clones. I didn't want an earlier Myford or a Flexispeed or a Gamage or their ilk. As I wasn't a technical college lecturer, I didn't have access to a friendly-priced cast-off Holbrook or similar. But 'everyone' knew about the ML7 so I bought one (second hand). Since that time, it has served me well and the only problems encountered (apart from that awful oil-gun!!!) have been between the operator's ears.
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 31/08/2018 10:17:19
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
It looks like the early bird got the worm!
(I'll get me coat.)
|Thread: Bench grinder|
I suggest that it's important to take the power rating into account when assessing the value of a bench grinder. One with a 350 Watt motor for £35 could be a bargain - one with a 170 watt motor for £35 is likely to be a frustrating nuisance! Especially with 8" wheels.
|Thread: Correct name for this item please?|
I do admire the way the design separates the pillar guidance from the clamping action.
|Thread: ML10 spanners|
The rule for Beeston Myford lathes is that threads smaller than ¼" are B.A. and all those ¼" or bigger are BSF. That was the British Standards Institute recommendations at the time.
To identify the spanners you need, I suggest that you search on-line for a comprehensive thread table for B.S.F threads that includes the across flats sizes (preferably in inches! ) for the nuts and bolt heads.
I'd go and check my ML7 but the interior of my workshop is currently above melting point!!
|Thread: Is this true..?|
Plus one for 'Structures' by Prof. J.E.Gordon.
A good read throughout.
One gem I was pleased to find was what he says about the English longbow being made from MEDITERRANEAN yew. Yet that same Mediterranean yew doesn't work in the Mediterranean region because the climate is too hot. My father, a skilled woodworker, always asserted that our English yew was too splitty and windy-grained to be any good for making a bow. He would have been pleased to read the book.
|Thread: Microscope Equipment, What is it please?|
Hi there, Martin,
I wonder if I shall beat Michael to the draw?!?
Your kit is a hardness testing set. The cylindrical gizmo is a hydraulic (I think) indenter. The Vernier eyepiece is fitted to the (a? ) microscope and used to measure the diameter of the indentation. This is looked-up in Tables to translate to hardness.
I guess it has to be hardness on the Vickers scale.
Did you receive the microscope with it?
What else did you get?
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 13/06/2018 16:37:52
|Thread: Fitting nuts in awkward spaces|
I recently had to refit the fixing screws & nuts securing a multi-pole connector into a tightly packed electrical unit (all low voltage).
The heads of the screws were on the exterior of the unit enclosure. I was able to get the externally-serrated spring washers on to the screws using a pair of tweezers. However, the nuts (actually half-nuts) wouldn't stay in the tweezers or in the jaws of my narrow nosed pliers. (If Carlsberg made narrow nosed pliers they'd have a parallel action!) In any case, there wasn't room for the pliers.
My successful method was to cut down the flat wooden stick from an iced lolly to a suitable width and then to attach each nut in turn to the end of the stick with double-sided tape. Once the spring washer was in position I offered the nut to the end of the screw and turned the screw to engage the thread. Having removed the lolly stick, a little finger pressure held the nut while I turned the screw some more. Then the washer held the nut well enough for the final tightening.
This method worked because I was able to turn the screw from outside the enclosure. However, I'm sure it could be adapted for use where the male part is a fixed stud.
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 13/06/2018 15:13:50
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
Hi there, Howard,
Your post reminded me of something concerning Pelton Wheels that I was told many years ago. Even longer ago than that, domestic wireless broadcast receivers were usually battery powered, domestic mains electricity was rare and differed in characteristics (e.g. voltage, frequency, AC or DC etc) from district to district. The high tension ('H.T.' ) battery was a block of small zinc alkali based cells while the low tension ('L.T.' ) source was a single lead-acid rechargeable. It was, strictly speaking, a 'cell' but was colloquially referred to as 'the L.T. battery'. The wireless receivers of that era used thermionic valves with 2 Volt filaments. It was intended that when the 'L.T. battery' was flat it would be taken to a local shop and exchanged for a charged one. Some people found this to be a nuisance. For the reasons given above, mains re-charging was not feasible. So many wireless listeners used a charging set comprising a small dynamo driven by a Pelton Wheel attached to the kitchen cold water tap. Domestic water supply wasn't metered in those days but was charged according to the rateable value of the house. So the 'L.T. battery' was recharged apparently for free but actually at a cost to the Water Company's pump prime mover.
However, the Water Companies were alert to any sort of waste water (the official jargon for the overflow pipe from the domestic cistern in your roof is 'indicator pipe' ). It seems that the pulsating back pressure from the Pelton Wheel buckets and nozzle propagated quite well back up the water main and was very audible to the Water Company's inspectors using their simple sounding rod.
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 10/05/2018 15:53:37
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 10/05/2018 15:54:00
|Thread: How to remove a chuck from a Boxford model A|
I hope that your efforts will be successful.
When you get there, please be sure to come back and share the conclusion - please don't leave the thread hanging!
|Thread: Lifting or hoisting a Myford Super 7|
I've moved my ML7 three times since I first installed it.
Removing it from and replacing it on its stand is affected by whether it's a peninsular location (accessible both front and rear) or against the wall with no rear access. With no rear access it seems best to avoid having to refit the motor - re-aligning the motor while leaning over the machine from the front is not a happy process! However, lifting with the motor fitted demands the right approach to avoid being taken by surprise.
What I'm leading up to is that the weight of the motor can suddenly try to take charge when the machine is halfway up the raising block studs. The machine tries to roll over towards the rear. This can bend the studs. If there's space for the lifter at the head-stock end to stand, they should stand end-on to the line of the bed (i.e. with their chest/stomach against the change-gear cover) but slightly to the rear, supporting the weight of the motor with their left hand. In my experience, lifting with the motor fitted and with both lifters in front of the machine stand is difficult.
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 31/03/2018 09:01:59
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
I hate to say this but that may well be just what 'they' wanted you to do. Your post suggests a clash of culture/ethics was brewing and provoking you to leave saved them the cost of a redundancy package. It does happen!
Very unpleasant at the time but often a blessing in disguise.
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