Here is a list of all the postings Swarf, Mostly! has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Favourite Engineering quotes.|
Advice when I couldn't do what he always seemed to do easily: 'You just have to hold your mouth right'.
Definition of Preventative maintenance: 'Taking the equipment to pieces every 2000 hours to see why it's still working'!
|Thread: I've bought a 7R [ Myford, not AJS ]|
When I started work in the defence electronics industry, 1954-ish, the practice as I remember it was initially BSF above 1/4" and B.A. below.
Beeston Myfords seem to have followed substantially the same practice.
Once NATO became an influence, the larger threads changed to UNF which was a sort of mollified ANF (to mollify the European NATO nations). And, where the design required a coarser thread, UNC (mollified ANC).
It all got a bit messy when the UK metricated.
|Thread: Myford secondhand machine prices|
In 1955 in the Trainee Model Shop at EMI's factory in Feltham, Middlesex, there was a row of six ML7 lathes, on Myford stands, each with a label saying 'Ministry of Supply'.
It was the 'Trainee Model Shop' so were we temporary inmates 'Trainee Model Engineers'?
|Thread: Crompton Parkinson 1/2 - 3/4 motor bearings|
Hi there, CotswoldPhil,
Oilite bearings are sintered bronze - the sintering gives them a porous structure which is (ideally) vacuum filled with oil.
The makers' 'how to' literature, as far as I can remember, said that reaming to size after assembly is a no-no because the reamer 'smears' the bronze, closing up the pores and impeding, if not totally preventing, the oil reaching the bore. Presumably, the same no-no applies to boring?
The specified fitting method is to insert using a stepped mandrel whose section in the bush has the right diameter to control the finished bore.
|Thread: Computer backup|
Hi there, all,
I have a Seagate 1 TB external drive that I use for back-up. The software that came on the drive is a real nanny so I ditched that and now use the free version of Acronis.
I did also try Windows own back-up but I didn't like it - can't remember why now.
I find Acronis easy to use, if a bit slow but I should also say that I've not tried to restore from it yet.
I think it's important to disconnect the back-up drive except when you're actually backing up or restoring - that way, if you do happen to pick up a nasty from an infected web-site, it'll only get at your internal drives. This would be particularly important if the nasty happened to be Cryptolocker or one of its variants! SWMBO recommends getting Cryptoprevent from Majorgeeks (it's free).
I also have an ancient Mac G4 Quicksilver. The external drive I use for backing up from that is Firewire rather than USB - it's much quicker! Without switching it on, I can't remember the back-up software I use on the Mac (senior moment!).
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 02/09/2014 16:36:33
|Thread: Tauco drill|
Hi there, Richard,
I'm glad you found it useful. I'm especially glad for you that the splines are in good condition - best to keep them well lubricated.
I suggest that you take particular note of what the assembly instructions say about not over-tightening the clamp bolt - I have two 'head-stocks' (for want of a better term) for mine and one of them has weld where the results of such over-tightening had caused a crack.
You'll find when you slacken that bolt that local gravity increases and the head-stock develops a strong desire to descend the whole way down the column! That's why I fitted mine with the plastic clamp-rings - the upper one defines the head-stock vertical position.
I'm having a mega-tidy at present; when I'm done with that, maybe I'll take some photos of my machine.
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 30/08/2014 16:39:48
Hi there, all,
I've tweaked the gamma on the Tauco parts list to improve its readability. (Three cheers for MS Photo Editor! ) I've up-loaded this latest version to my album.
It'd be nice to get some confirmation that other folks can read it.
Hi there, Richard,
I've up-loaded the Tauco spares list to my album but it seems to have gone up as a microdot!
I hope that you can read it and that it helps.
Hi there, again,
An after-thought: when I was setting my Tauco to work, I turned up a couple of plastic rings bored to fit over the column and with a shallow groove on the outer surface. These are split and tightened onto the column with a Jubilee clip. One sits beneath the main casting as a safety measure and the other sits below the table knee bracket. I find this helps a lot when raising or lowering the table.
Hi there, Richard,
The main spindle has a spline groove down most of its length, it might be two grooves, diametrically disposed, I can't remember. Then, inside the stepped pulley there's a rather odd-shaped bobbin sort of 'gizmo' that fits round the spindle - this has male spline(s) in its bore that engage with the spindle groove(s) to provide the sliding drive. This 'gizmo' is (on my Tauco) made of zinc-based die-casting alloy. When I got mine, the male splines had worn paper-thin and hadn't much life left.
After lots of research (no Internet in early 1970s) I found that Wilkinsons in Edinburgh had Tauco spares and supplied me with a replacement 'gizmo'. I did Google Wilkinsons a year or so ago and they were then still in business; I don't know if they still have any stock of Tauco spares.
Unless the 'gizmo' in your machine has healthy splines, I fear it is junk, unless you can procure a replacement or home-brew some substitute. So I suggest your first priority should be to strip off the stepped pulley and eye-ball what that reveals!
I believe that the Tauco drills came over to the UK from the USA during 1939-1945 WW2 as Marshall Aid or Lend-Lease. Mine has given very satisfactory service and one or two other members on this forum have them.
I made my own control box containing a MEMDOL single phase direct on-line starter and a forward-off-reverse switch; the box is bracketed off the motor mounting plate. I expect the starter in your photo is similarly mounted.
If you PM me with your email address, I may be able to find a .pdf of the illustrated parts list (aka 'exploded diagram' ).
|Thread: Workshop Lighting|
You don't lose it - your room thermostat transfers it and the cost to your gas bill!
|Thread: Who makes Steam pressure gauges reading up to 20 or 30 PSI ?|
Hi there, Brian,
Do you want the gauge to actually fit to the boiler, i.e. 'model-size', or to use as an item of test gear?
If the latter, a 'full-size' gauge would do.
|Thread: Myford QC Gearbox|
Hi there, John,
I gather from your mention of the oil cup that your lathe is a Super Seven rather than an ML7. The QC gearbox is the same for both machines except for a spacer strip on(I believe) early Super Sevens.
John F. has dealt with removing the lead-screw.
The QC gearbox is secured to the lathe bed by three screws. The upper two are 1/4" BSF cap-heads (maybe M6 if your machine is a recent one). They are best accessed after removing the top cover. IMHO, I guess you COULD get at them through the front of the gearbox but you'd need an extra long Allen key, a torch and four hands! (The more so when you come to refit the box to the lathe.)
The lower one is a 1/4" BSF slotted mushroom head, accessed by removing the plug on the front of the gearbox.
I suggest that you drain the oil from the box if you haven't done so already.
If you go onto the Myford web-site, chose 'Super Seven', then 'Spares', then 'QC Gearbox', then scroll right to the bottom of the page and click on 'Click for bigger picture' (in red letters). That will bring up a large .pdf version of the illustrated parts list (aka 'exploded diagram' ) - I'm sure you'll find that useful. (It's down-loadable. Ditto for all the other lathe sub-assemblies!)
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 05/08/2014 22:29:34
|Thread: UK Museums to see old stationary engines|
Hi there, David,
I'd recommend that you visit the cluster of museums at the Ironbridge Gorge. Here's the web-site: http://www.ironbridge.org.uk/ . I'd say it's the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution.
I visited back in the early 1980s - we bought our tickets and started in early on a Friday afternoon, stayed overnight in B&B, spent all day Saturday there and Sunday morning before having to move on. There was still a lot we hadn't seen and I understand they've moved lots more equipment onto the site since then.
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 21/07/2014 14:53:20
|Thread: Which lathe|
Hi there, Colin,
Some folks may tell you that a wooden floor will condemn you to poor results and will advise you to cut a hole in the floor, dig a deep foundation and cast an in-situ concrete pedestal for your lathe.
I'm not saying that's wrong BUT I do suggest that you defer such a radical measure until you have gained some experience with whatever lathe you get.
My Myford ML7 is bolted to a home-made sheet steel and angle 'iron' cabinet stand that has a length of angle 'iron', web outwards, at the foot of each end. I used to have a workshop on scaffold boards and railway sleepers and the lathe cabinet ends sat on two strips of ½" hard felt on the floor. The lathe is mounted on the Myford raising blocks with built-in jacking screws for 'levelling'. Over a couple of years the cabinet filled up with accessories for the lathe and chunks of useful material (any old iron!) so there was quite a bit of mass there to stabilise the situation. I wasn't doing super precise work but that arrangement never caused me any problems.
So, get your lathe and get some practice & experience and then, and only then, pursue the ultimate lathe foundation, if it proves to be necessary. And not until you've decided definitely where in the workshop you want the lathe to be sited.
It's handy to have a pluggable hole in the wall in line with the lathe mandrel in case you ever need to operate on the end of something long!
I also suggest that you install and use an extractor fan (at least 9" ) over the kettle.
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 15/07/2014 15:16:37
Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 15/07/2014 15:17:51
|Thread: Myford tumbler gear.|
Hi there, Rebekah & JS,
Oops!!! My mistake!!!
The part numbers I quoted in my earlier post are for the steel gears that the Tufnol ones replace.
The part numbers Mytholmroyd-Myford quote for the Tufnol gears are:
A1781, (B36, Reference Number 498), 18 teeth, £17.68 + VAT.,
A1782, (B35, Reference Number 499), 20 teeth, £17.68 + VAT.,
All the tumbler reverse set-ups I have encountered use two non-identical gears (idlers).
Regarding your point, John, I guess that can only be resolved by a comparison of the gear centre distances and spindle diameters on the ML4 and ML7.
Hi there, Rebekah,
Are you sure you need two-off? The parts list on the Mytholmroyd-Myford web-site specifies one-off 18 tooth, 75/1241 and one-off 20 tooth, 75/1242, (per lathe).
|Thread: Searching for rubber seal|
Hi there, Dave,
Have you considered using a fluid-filled flexible tube as a seal? Something like a bicycle inner tube filled with water.
|Thread: WD40 alternative - any good?|
Hi there, all,
When I was in my 'Amateur Radio' phase, a fellow Radio Club member squirted the wave-change switch of her communications receiver with WD40 - it never worked again!
|Thread: What did you do today? (2014)|
I'd like to emphasize the reason for my request to John - his visit offers an opportunity for us to get a useful eye witness report (should he agree) as to whether the Chinese are building wind turbines and installing them on their own territory.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.