Here is a list of all the postings Paul Lousick has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Virtual modelling can have place here ?|
Much easier (and less expensive) to fix mistakes on a computer than on a lathe or mill. The supplied drawings for the traction engine which I am building are not completely correct and I also have to modify components to suite available materials. Everything which I make is modeled on the computer first. I am using Solidworks to create the models and a new set of drawings.
|Thread: Tapping an internal M4 thread in an M6 brass threaded rod,|
Do a web search for drill size for tapping. There are heaps of tables to download which will specify the required drill size.
|Thread: DUH! I did it wrong Dad!!|
If you start with thicker material you could hold in the vice as in Jason's photo, leaving a thicker section in the vice for rigidity. Then turn it upside down and machine the base (now the top) to the correct thickness.
Another method is to glue to a base plate with hot melt glue and re-melt after machining.
|Thread: piston ring options|
There are lots of places that supply cast iron piston rings. I need 1.75" rings for my engine and found a company in Australia that can supply them for $12 each. Hardly worth making my own. Do a search to see if you can find someone near you.
|Thread: Milling Today|
Good way to learn how to use your mill. Better than wrecking a real project.
OK, the trials are over. Now turn your Oxo cube into one of these..
Edited By Paul Lousick on 05/11/2013 09:23:44
|Thread: Looking for help and advice|
Welcome to the forum.
Get a copy of Harold Hall's books on learning to use a lathe and mill. Lots oh helpful advice while making your own tools. A search on Harold Hall on this site will take you to his home page. A search on the net will find sellers of his books.
Happy machining, Paul.
|Thread: boiler design|
The Australian code for miniature boilers is an excellent document which allows amateurs to build boilers. The requirements for material type, size and weld preparation are all explained. The design requirements are higher than would be required by a qualified boiler maker. But this allows a hobby engineer to build a safe boiler.
The code is for boilers up to 50 litre capacity with a working pressure of 100 psi max. There is a separate code for steel boilers and another for copper boilers.
Contact details are at:
|Thread: Eccentric Question|
A Burrell is a nice engine. Although mine is also a 6" it is half the size of yours. Been building mine for about 18 months now. Would like to have it finished this time next year. Unfortunately work get in the way.
Good luck with your project.
Paul (Sydney, Australia)
I am also building a model traction engine and my eccentrics will be keyed to the shaft.
Richard, what type of engine. Mine is a 6" Ruston Proctor.
|Thread: Countersink cutter|
Thanks for the advice. I can only have a go at producing a decent countersink hole. If not successful will have to find a larger machine.
Thanks for the feedback.
Saw a 40mm HSS single flute cutter on flee-bay for $45 will give it a try. Otherwise may make one with carbide inserts.
I have to machine large countersink holes in 8, 12 and 20mm steel plate, up to 38mm x 90 degrees with a Sieg X3 mill.
My options are to buy or make a countersink cutter. Which way to go ?
Have seen 40mm HSS single flute cutters on e-bay. Are 1 flute cutters any good >
Also 2,3,4, or 6 flute cutters. Which are better ? (Would like a replaceable carbide insert cutter but expensive). Does anyone have any expeience or suggestions ?
Edited By Paul Lousick on 04/09/2013 14:13:07
Edited By Paul Lousick on 04/09/2013 14:14:01
|Thread: New mill being delivered...|
I have the same mill and also chose a 3MT version so I could use my lathe tools. Don't overtighten the drawbar. I use an aluminium hammer to release the tools but cringe every time I hit it.
As previously said, buy quality tooling as you need them. Keep an eye on e-bay for good used tools. A quality used tool is far better than new asian junk. You can also make lots of your own.
|Thread: Vibrating bench drill|
I have a similar cheap drill. Found that the mounting hole in the belt pully was not on centre. If still under warranty, take it back an ask for a refund and buy something better.
|Thread: Piano Wire|
A source of thin high tensile wire is MIG welding wire. It comes in various gauges and material types.
Try a local welding shop. They often throw out ends of rolls.
I am even further away from you on the otherside of the plannet in Australia Have been modelling for longer than I can remember. No question is too simple or silly. We are always learning. So ask away, someone will have an answer..
|Thread: LED arrays|
CD case is a good idea.
The LED's are the same as I used on my mill in my previous posting "LED Work lights for milling machine"
|Thread: Gasket material for steam engine|
In Oz for full size size engines we use a graphite impregnated sealant. One of the popular brands is "Dicksons". Probably made in the UK.
|Thread: What milling machine?|
I have a Sied SX3 and it has been a great machine to use but the controller for the DC motor has just failed. Going to cost over $500 to have it replaced (the supplier does not do repairs to motor controllers). Unless you want a CNC mill would reccommend a machine with a standard motor and belts and pulleys to change the speed. Much more reliable and cheaper to repair.
PS. Anyone know where I can get the old controller repaired ?
|Thread: Mounting an electronic edge-finder|
Lambton beat me to it.
I also have a 20mm edge finder and going to modify a 3MT arbor to accept the edge finder. Much quicker than changing collets every time you want to use it.
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