Here is a list of all the postings Paul Lousick has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: collet block|
My mistake above . The 9" Southbend has an adaptor from 3MT to 3C collets.
There should be a serial number stamped on the RH side of the bed. My old Southbend is a model C with flat belt drive pulleys and with the spindle running in cast iron head stock (no bearings). It was build around 1938 and has a 3MT taper and a 1 1/2" x 8 tpi spindle nose.
The lathes.co.uk site does mention that Southbend also made some spindles with a non Morse type taper. My question again, what type of centre is used in the head stock ? Standard morse or something else ?
My old 9" Southbend has a 3MT taper in the spindle and uses an adaptor to accept the 5C collets. Also accepts a 3MT/ER32 collet chuck.
You have said that "its got a funny taper in the spindle". What type of dead centre do you use ? Are not most centres Morse taper. ?
Edited By Paul Lousick on 28/09/2019 23:32:31
Even the cheaper collets are more accurate than an older 3 jaw chuck. Jaws could be ground to make them run on centre but if the scroll is worn, it will only work for the specific diameter that you ground the jaws.
The Australian code for model steel boilers states that the water gauge shall be connected to the boiler independent of all other fittings, including the steam manifold. Reason being that any take-off of steam to a fitting attached to the water gauge will lower the pressure and will give a false reading in the gauge.
When I started work as a mechanical engineer draftsman (originally draughtsman, sorry draftperson), we used imperial units and a year later had to learn everything im metric. No problem I thought, 1/2" in metric is 0.5 inches. Wrong !
The metric measurement which I dislike is litres / 100 km instead of the old mpg for petrol consumption because 100 is not a base unit and the equivalent metric unit should be km / litre.
I have an ER32 3MT collet chuck along with numerous collets which were bought on ebay. They may not be toolroom standard but good enough for the work that I do and all at a price that will not break the bank.
My lathe, mill and rotary table all have 3MT spindles and the chuck can be used on all machines. Also very handy to take a job from lathe to rotary table without removing it from the chuck. The only problem being, if the collet chuck is being used to hold work in the RT, it is not available to hold a cutter in the mill and I have to resort to different methods. And why I am thinking about getting a second collet chuck.
|Thread: Where to source bronze or brass plate|
Your price for having castings made seems reasonable.
Why don't you make the patterns from wood which is the traditional way of making them. Use plywood, craft wood, plastic or any other material which you can cut and shape. Cost of a pattern could be zero.
|Thread: Any interesting lathe projects for beginners?|
Have a look on Harold Hall's website for projects.
Car accessory stores that sell engine oil also keep hydraulic oil.
|Thread: machine coolant pipe|
Lots available on ebay. Including some with a control valve and magnetic base
|Thread: wire bender|
Special pliers for forming round ends on wire are called "Looping pliers" which are similar to round nose pliers but have parallel jaws of different diameters. Lots of difefrent ones on ebay. And these ones called One step looping pliers. Not sure where you get them
Edited By Paul Lousick on 09/09/2019 11:50:58
|Thread: Metal Saw|
See prevouse posts about bandsaws
|Thread: wire bender|
Have not seen a cheap shop bought wire bender but lots of simple benders shown on Youtube.
|Thread: Cheapskate Sandblaster|
Sand should no longer be used for blast cleaning unless proper breathing aparatus is used, not just a mask. Sand contails silica and breathing it is bad for your health. Workers who breath in silica dust could develop chronbronchitis, emphysema or acute silicosis.
The latest health warnings in Australia are for stone masons and kitchen workers who cut and grind granite benchtops and breath in the dust. They have developed similar lung diseases like emphysema.
The wet blasters do not make as much dust while operation but when the slurry dries, fine dust is left on the ground. We had a full size engine blast cleaned outside of our club shed and although there was no dust while cleaning, when it dried the wind picked it up and blew it everywhere. Do the blasting on top of a plastic tarp and roll it up with the damp grit and dispose of it before it dries.
Edited By Paul Lousick on 06/09/2019 14:06:52
|Thread: Building a 4" traction engine|
Make sure that you do lots of research on different engines before you commit. There is a lot of work and expense in building a larger model. Also check the physical size of the finished model. Not all 4" scale engines are the same size. It depends of how big the original engine was. My engine is a 6" Ruston Proctor SD but is a similar size to a 4" Fowler. (the original only weighed 3.5 ton.) Almost finished after 7 years work.
It is also good to join a model club and talk to their members about the pros and cons of their engines and where they purchased parts. Different part suppliers sell a different style of the same engine than others. Castings and drawings could be simplified and not have all of the features of the original full size engine. I purchase my drawings and castings from Live Steam Models and were excellent although the drawings did have a couple of small mistakes. I orderred all of the casting at the start of the project as it was a cheaper option. Other materials and tools bought as I needed them.
I live in Australia and our model clubs include indemnity insurance with your membership and the boiler is inspected free. The professional built and inspected option is much more expensive. It would operate at full boiler pressure instead of reduced pressure for models but is not required for a smaller engine.
Most drawings sold for model engines contain some mistakes. Some more than others as they seem to be drawn by drafters with little experience and are not thoroughly checked. Also check that the size of material shown on the drawing is available. Imperial size members may not be available and only in metric. (a set of model drawings only cost a couple of hundred dollars/pounds instead of thousands for professionally drawn. Ya get wot ya pay for)
Good luck, Paul
|Thread: Cheapskate Sandblaster|
Recently had some blasting done with a professional wet blaster using crushed glass which did an excellent job. I already have a cheap sandblaster that works with air but not 100% happy with it. But that price for a Karcher attachment I will have to get one.
|Thread: Mini mill or handtools for this job (rectangle with slots)|
It depends on what you call "precision"
Woodworking precision = 1/32" or maybe 1/64", Metalworking precision = 1/1000"
They are not precision machining jigs so why make them so complex ? They are used on a router/saw table and are located in drilled holes on a wooden top. The stepped slot is not necessary.
A simple slot in a piece of flat bar would be just as good and would not require the stepped location dowel/nut. It could be made from a piece of round bar with a tapped hole. The hand wheel could even be replaced with a standard bolt.
A mill would be the quickest and easiest method but not too hard to do it with hand tools.. Drill a series of holes (smaller than the width of the slot) and use a round file to cut between them. Then use a flat file to finish the slot to width. Or just a hole at either end of the slot, use a round file to make it big enough to insert a hack saw blade and saw down each side of the slot. Finish with a flat file.
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