Here is a list of all the postings Paul Lousick has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Bending the flanges was quick and easy. The front spectacle plate was 2mm under size over the flanges after bending and was packed out with a 1mm shim on both sides. The rear plate was exactly to size. The biggest job was designing and making the press brake and form tools to match the inside radius of the flanges.
Good luck with your build Andrew,
I made the spectacle plates on my engine by bending the 3 sides around a suitable former in a press and then welding in a segment of a pipe elbow (the flange radii bent to match the pipe elbow). Then a bit of grinding to smooth out the welds.
I also made the rounded corners on the tender in a similar way. (see below)
Achieving an accurate finished size to the outside of the flanged sides is the trickiest part as bending is one of the least accurate fabrication methods. I used Solidworks to model the plates in 3D which is able to prodice a drawing in the flattened state and show an exact position of the bend line for positioning under the press.
Edited By Paul Lousick on 29/12/2019 22:14:49
|Thread: Satellites going over Kent Sussex|
I have been watching old episodes of the X-Files. Mulder would know what the un-identified objects in the sky are.
|Thread: 5" gauge boiler rod stays|
My engine has a steel boiler and is built to the AMBSC code with girder stays above the firebox.
I dont have a copy of the code for copper boilers but was told by my boiler inspector that girder stays can be used in a copper boiler provided that they meet all of the requirements in the code. And I believe that they have to be full height (from top of crown to inside of the outer wrapper) and the UK version allows partial height (someone in UK please advise if this is correct). However, there is a preference to use rod type stays.
The AMBSC code for Australian boilers can be ordered from the Scale Model EXchange SMEX
Edited By Paul Lousick on 29/12/2019 04:56:53
|Thread: Making a miniature leaf spring.|
"Band-it" strapping is a good source of thin spring steel. Also useful for shimming lathe cutters
|Thread: A question of colour...|
Crimson colour using 2 pack polyurethane car paint. (I have used used 2 pack on full sized engines before ane it stood up to years of abuse and not affected by the heat. Time will tell with this one. Fingers crossed !)
Edited By Paul Lousick on 27/12/2019 22:10:01
Edited By Paul Lousick on 27/12/2019 22:11:38
It's your engine and you can do whatever you decide to do. The original colour of my Ruston Proctor engine was a dull green colour which I did not like and I painted it in Crimson.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
More work on my traction engine, making lagging covers for the boiler.
Temporary templates cut out of cardboard first to get an exact fit around the steam chest and boiler fittings, then cut out of steel sheet. The flange for the manhole made by bashing the metal sheet around a former attached to a piece of left over boiler tube with a bronze bar and hammer.
Manhole flange attached by screws will be replaced with rivets.
|Thread: Info required|
Lots of articles on the internet, Youtube, etc about adding a power feed to the Z-axis screw. Mostly using a stepper motor for CNC conversion but no reason a standard gearmotor could not be used instead just to raise and lower the head.
|Thread: A Question on Bench Blocks|
I have made similar blocks, not for knocking out pins or for use on guns but as a guide when hand drilling or tapping holes. When held flat on a flat surface the drill bit or tap is guided perpendicular to the surface. Not as accurate as using a drill press but does a reasonable job for those less inportant holes. The guide blocks are not hollow and slightly shorter than the thread tap.
|Thread: Warco WM18 lead screws upgrade|
Ball screws are a common upgrade when converting a mill to CNC. They are available with anti-backlash nuts.
The valve eccentrics on my Ruston Proctor SD traction engine are set at 32 degrees (as shown on the supplied drawings) and the engine is running OK but I would be interested in knowing what angle other engines are using.
|Thread: Grinding wheel arbour|
Thanks for your response.
Just to clarify a few points:
Yes, I do know that the wheels are clamped between 2 pieces of paper and that they have to be dressed to make them concentric as the wheel hole is not that accurate and that the spindle on a standard grinder is also not that accurate. Which is why the wheels are mounted on a metal adaptor and then only need a slight dressing of the wheel.
A separate adaptor/arbour is required for each wheel and is located by a taper onto the motor shaft. The parallel shaft would have to be ground for a mating taper. I believe that a short morse taper is used on some grinders.
The Deckel grinder also has a jacking screw arrangement in the wheel adaptor for removing the wheels, which is the type of information I am seeking. (why re-invent the wheel).
Thanks Keith for suggesting Sopko wheel adaptors. **LINK**
I would like to easily change the wheels on a grinder without having to balance and dress them each time and would like to mount the wheel on a steel arbour with a taper bore. Similar to that used on a Deckel D-bit grinder.
Does anyone have a drawing of the arbour ?
|Thread: Keyway Broaching|
I broke a small drill press trying to broach a 3mm keyway. So proceed with caution.
|Thread: Weldon Shank in collet?|
The end mills with a flat should not be a problem. I have a couple and use them in an ER collet without any problem.
|Thread: Soldering with tin|
Do a search for "Tin metal granules" (or similar) on ebay. I recently purchased some that was 99% pure tin which I used to make fusible plugs for a boiler.
|Thread: Plumbers Jointing Paste ???|
Loctite also sell pipe sealant for high temperature applications.
|Thread: Plumbing question|
It is true that "If the flow into the pipe at 3/8 end is 10 litre/min ,the flow through the 1/4 pipe will be 10 litres/min,as will the flow out of end of 3/8 pipe". The 1/4" pipe is the restrictor that controls the volume thru the pipe. Inclease this and the flow will be greater then 10 litres/min.
A 1/2" dia garden hose connected to a 1/2" tap which is connected to a 1/2" water supply pipe is another example. When the tap is fully open there is a 1/2" bore thru all items and at 50psi you will get about 30 gallons/min but as the tap is closed (similar to going thru a smaller intermediate pipe) the volume of water out of the end reduces. The pressure will also be reduced slightly because of the extra friction. Adding more bends in the pipe run or reduced bore diameter in connector fittings will also reduce the flow and pressure.
|Thread: Magazine article series.|
Images from your computer screen are only captured at the resolution setting and size of your screen and therefore are not that good.
I much preferred the ease of to printing a copy of a page from within MEW. But you can get a good, detailed copy in pdf format by using the PocketMags viewer. Its limited to only printing 2 pages at a time and takes less than a minute.
You can then use a pdf editing program to join all of the pdf prints into one book but my preference is to convert them to jpg file and use your standard photo viewer.
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