Here is a list of all the postings Paul Lousick has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Mini Lathe|
If the chuck is too worn and not repairable, you could fit another one. But still a bargain at £80 .
|Thread: Silvers soldering|
What do you use to remove the Tipp-ex after soldering? I find it difficult to clean up after it has burnt on.
|Thread: Mini pipe bending|
There are lots of tube benders on ebay for bending tube but are normally limited to a 90 deg or 180 degree bend. (as shown in the links above). The tube can also be filled to prevent it from crushing as it is bent. Plunbers use fine, dry sand to fill copper tube prior to heating with a gas torch prior to bending but this would not suitable for small tubes. Instead a low melting point metal alloy could be used instead.
One such product is called "Cerrobend" and is available with a melting point of 70-150 **LINK**
Another option is to fill the tube with water and freeze it before bending around a former.
|Thread: Coolant Pump For Bandsaw.|
One of my first coolant pumps was a winscreen washer pump which worked OK for a reasonable time but eventually the oil in the solution caused the impeller to fail. As you already have one, use it.
Flexible coolant nozzles with a control valve are cheap on ebay.. This one costs AU $1.09 delivered from China. **LINK**
|Thread: WM18 - Broken it again :(|
Drilling a 22mm hole on a lathe or mill with a one horse power motor should not be a problem if it is fitted with a gearbox or belt drive speed reduction as the motor is running at full speed and the internal fan is cooling at 100% but if using a variable speed motor, at a slow speed the fan air flow is reduced and can lead to overheating.
Even though the DC motors have good torque at low speed it is less than what you would get a reduction drive system. The WM18 mill has a 1.5kw variable speed motor and is only rated to drill a 16mm hole. My RM-45 mill only has a 1.1kw fixed speed motor and gearbox drive and can drill up to 31.5mm holes. I used to have a Seig SX3 mill with a 1kw motor and to drill bigger holes, up to 36mm, I used a rotabroach instead of a twist drill with no problem.
|Thread: Magazine article ME and MEW sought-after|
If you take out a digital subscription you will have access to all of these issues of ME and MEW.
|Thread: Copper Plating|
Electro Brush Plating is a method of applying a metal coating to smaller areas using a brush/wand and an electric current.
|Thread: How TO Copy And Paste.|
"How do you copy and paste on this forum? "
If you are refering to photos, you can use Ctrl-A to copy and Ctrl-V to paste into other documents. etc but pasting into MEW does not work. Instead you have to upload photos to an album in your account and then link that to your post.
Procedure shown here: **LINK**
How to post photos is a common question on this site. Why is there not an easy to find link on the home page ???
|Thread: water hammer|
We even put one of the hammer arresters on the outlet pipe of the pump on our traction engine to soften the thumping action of the piston. Made it a lot quieter.
Another option is to use an anti-hammer tap washer. These are spring loaded and close more slowly. Other types are available from plumbing and hardware stores.
Edited By Paul Lousick on 13/02/2020 00:22:47
It is not uncommon for metal pipes in a plumbing system to bang loudly when a faucet is shut off suddenly, or when a water-using appliance such as a washing machine or dishwasher shuts off the water intake abruptly. It is not normally caused by air in the pipes.
The condition is commonly known as water hammer. The technical term is hydraulic shock, and it occurs when water stops or changes directions suddenly. The banging you hear is caused by the shock wave that causes plumbing pipes to move and strike against one another or against wooden framing members. In addition to being annoying, water hammer can be so forceful that it can break pipes or loosen plumbing joints.
An explanation on Youtube shown here: **LINK**
|Thread: Log in|
I normally can automatically log in to the site but occasionaly (like this time), I had to do it manually. But I only have to enter my email addres and not my password. I use MEW daily and this only happens after many days. (have to check how many days apart. maybe its a monthly thing ??)
|Thread: Tapping drill sizes?|
The dimension specified for British Standard Pipe (BSP) is not the outside diameter of the pipe but refers to a nominal size of the bore. 3/8" BSP pipe has an OD of 0. 5886" - 0.6560" (14.95mm - 16.66mm).
Pipe is available with different wall thicknesses specified by a schedule. For calculating the volume of fluid that the pipe can transfer, the inside diameter is important and a nominal bore size is specified. A standard OD is important so that the pipe can mate with elbow, tees, etc.
Tube on the otherhand is specified by its OD and a wall thickness and not by its bore.
(one of the arguments that I had with a popular supplier of boiler injectors who advertised them as having 1/4" pipe fittings. When it was delivered it had a 1/4" OD tube fittings and was too small for the application)
Edited By Paul Lousick on 11/02/2020 11:55:10
|Thread: 3D Scanning, Anyone?|
Before I retired from work we were building maintenance platforms at an airport to service an A380 Airbus and employed a commercial company to do a 3D scan (not cheap) because we could not purchase an accurate 3D model of the plane. No 3D printing but used the scanned model in a CAD package to design parts.
|Thread: What would I use a Plasma Cutter For|
I also have one of the cheap Stick/Tig/Plasma units and find it good value for what you pay. Have had it for a couple of years now and mainly use it for Tig welding. Stick welding is much better than my old transformer unit.
I have replaced the Tig gun with a better one as I had trouble getting the consumable tips and shields.
|Thread: My (bad) carbide grinding setup|
Better than nothing. If it works, use it.
|Thread: Painting fittings|
Depends how you are riveting. Hot or cold. If hot riveting the paint will burn. I primed and painted the spokes and rims of my traction engine wheels prior to assembly to prevent rusting. Assembly was done at a later date. The setting of rivets on the spokes where done cold. (5/16" dia rivets were set with 3 different shaped snaps, requireing a maximum press force of 15 tons). The assembled wheels then grit blasted prior to final painting.
|Thread: Possible machine hoist?|
Lots of talk about CE markings and not being covered by insurance which is true. BUT like many posts on this forum, we have wanderred away from the original purpose of this post.which was a way of lifting a chuck or rotary table onto the mill table.
These truck hoists are designed to lift in excess of 400kg. A rotary table or chuck (for home use) would be less than 40kg. The safety factor of it failing is very low. Is it any more dangerous than making your own hoist or using a block and tackle system in your workshop ?
Personaly, I would not use it, not because it would be unsafe but because it would take up valuable floor space and prefer a ceiling mounted rail or swing type hoist which has a moving trolley. The truck hoist can only lift and swing in an arc. There is no axial movement to position the load after lifting.
|Thread: Vertical slide fitment|
An idea for a simple vertical slide attachment in an article in Popular Mechanics magazine published in 1945.
|Thread: Myford ML2 Adventure|
This similar to my old Southbend lathe but there would have been a cover over the gears which are missing in the photo.
|Thread: How do I change the "default" lever angle on my Verdict DTI?|
Im not familiar with the Verdict but on all of the ones that I have the lever has a friction grip and simply twisted to the angle required.
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