Here is a list of all the postings Paul Lousick has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Turning Cast Iron question - Health & Cleaning Up|
I have a machinist friend who hates turning cast iron as he is alergic to the dust. Care must also be taken if using a vacuum clenber (AKA Hoover) as the dust is electrically conductive and can short out the motor.
|Thread: Oversize ER collets|
Why hold the leadscrew in a 4-jaw chuck ?
|Thread: Setting Milling-machine Vice|
I have machined a keyway in the base of my vice. (Key does not have to be a perfect fit with the slots in the mill table). Just apply pressure against one side of the slot as you tighten the hold down bolts. This is quick and accurate enough for 99% of the machining jobs, as long as the slot is true to the table slide.
|Thread: Lathe levelling|
Even though the lathe test piece measure the same at both ends does not necessarily mean that the lathe is "level" (aligned). This may only be true when machining getween centres and at the end positions of your test piece.
See this video from a previous post (skip 1st minute) Lathe Alignment / Levelling
Edited By Paul Lousick on 05/05/2019 08:29:18
|Thread: Removing Flux|
No trick Simon. I have done a lot of welding and brazing but have not pickled the metal to clean. (My search of previous posts did not come up with anything). Will give the citric acid a go first to see if it works.
I have used typist's correcting fluid to mask the metal where I did not want the solder to flow. This worked but is there a better method ?
Edited By Paul Lousick on 02/05/2019 12:13:13
What is good for removing flux on copper, bronze or brass after silver soldering ?
|Thread: Threading 1/8 stainless steel|
I just cut an M3 thread on 316 stainless. Held in a collet in the lathe but cut thread manually, backing off every time to break the chip. HSS die and cutting fluid used.
|Thread: Precision Level or Precision Frame Level|
I have just found a good demonstration of levelling a lathe on Youtube (fast forward thru the first minute). The simulated model of a lathe shows what happens if is not aligned properly.
|Thread: Hydraulic press or fly press|
An arbor press using a rack and pinion would be more suited if you only need 3-5 ton capacity. They are compact and not overly expensive.
Edited By Paul Lousick on 29/04/2019 07:37:56
|Thread: Which scale to build|
As stated, the model of the engine depends on the scale and size of the original. I am building a 6" scale Ruston Ptoctor SD but the original only weighed 3 1/2" ton and the model 700 kg. It will just fit into a 6x4 ft trailer. A good indication for comparing the finished size of different models is the diameter of the wheels. The rear wheel on mine are 24". I chose to build a larger engine because I wanted to ride on it and not to sit on a trailer behind it.
The number of parts is the same for all scales of the engine. You just need a lathe/mill big/small enough to do the machining. For the parts which I could not fit on my machines, I did elsewhere. A bigger engine just neets more material to abuse. Sometimes smaller ones can be be very fiddly because of size.
|Thread: Polishing copper plated cast iron|
I have something similar. Steel which has been electro plated with copper and has some tarnish marks which will not easily polish off. As it is only a very thin layer of copper, futher polishing will probably wear thru the copper coating. To restore it properly, I may have to have the old copper removed and a new coating applied.
|Thread: Cloth insulation Tape|
We are showing our age if we say that we remember it. I think it had a bitumen base as an adhesive. Have not seen it for sale, here in Oz.
|Thread: DRO Z-Axis /4th axis "combiner"|
Hi Kealan, I also want to fit a 4th scale to my mill.
My intention was to use a manual RS232 switch to change from the column scale to the quill scale and use my existing 3-axis display. The more expensive displays allow for a combined Z-axis reading but out of my budget.
Are you able to post details and circuit for your project. I have a little knowledge about electronics but know nothing about Arduino's.
|Thread: The cheapest DRO ever?|
A digital caliper is a better option than a tyre gauge. No spring to remove like in the video and available with longer travel. (they can be shortened if required). I have been using one on the cross slide of my lathe for a number of years.
I would advise that you mount the DRO on the tail stock side of the cross slide and not directly under the cutter as shown. Away from swarf and coolant that will find its way into the readout and cause it to fail. I would not use a magnet anywhere near the swarf on the lathe unless you want to use it as a collector.
Edited By Paul Lousick on 26/04/2019 14:44:21
|Thread: Bolted or Feet?|
I only have a small workshop with not a lot of floor space for a mill, lathe, press, etc. and have mounted my RF-45 mill on casters so it can be moved. The supplied mill stand has been modified with additional shelves for storage. It is very stable, even when the table is extended to one side with a load of an 8" rotary table and chuck. No distortion of the mill base or movement when machining. It weighs more than 300kg and can be moved by hand.
|Thread: Building a Belt grinder - advice please.|
Geremy Scmidt's web sit with drawings available for download: https://jerswoodshop.com/
For a BIG GRINDER check this Youtube video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXzoM-WXWRw
Edited By Paul Lousick on 26/04/2019 02:27:33
The tracking wheel moves up and down to tighten the belt but can also be angled to track the belt on the rollers.
A good series of videos has been posted on Youtube by Geremy Scmitdt about building a 2x72 inch belt grinder which can be used in a vertical or horizontal position.
He has made lots of different attachments and has a set of plans for the grinder.
|Thread: Fillers & Paint ?|
Automotive spot putty is good for filling small holes and is applied with a flat metal or plastic blade. Depending on thickness, can be sanded in less than 1 hour. For larger areas, use a can of spray putty. Available from automotive paint and accessory suppliers.
The horn plates and tender on my model traction engine have lots of false rivets. The holes on the back of the plates were countersunk. The rivets shank cut slightly thicker than the plate and then bashed with a ball peen hammer to fill the countersink. Then painted everything.
|Thread: Building a Belt grinder - advice please.|
Lots of designs for belt grinders on Youtube, etc.
I have a 2" wide belt grinder with a 1/2 HP, 2850 motor which is OK for light grinding but way too under powered for any decent work. I can easily stall the belt if I push too hard. Would prefer something with at lease a 1 or 1 1/2 HP motor.
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