Here is a list of all the postings Paul Lousick has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Gas Fitting|
Even though the bayonet connector should be self sealing, it's probably worth checking for leaks by spraying with soapy water and checking for bubbles. Especially if it is indoors.
|Thread: Water Gauge seals|
The retaining caps should not be too tight because the glass can easily be broken, hense soft neoprene rings as Chris has suggested. Normal o-rings are hard and require reasonable force to compress. Sometimes used on full size boilers but not suitable for small fragile models.
If you are unable to find suitable neoprene tubing to make rings, you can use flat teflon sealing tape by twisting it into a string and wrapping the string around the glass. Not as good but will get you out of trouble.
|Thread: Anyone else having problems printing from Pocketmags this month?|
Its been a while now that we have not been able to print from the digital magazines and and it is still not fixed and they seem to be doing nothing about it.
I have already complained to Pocketmags and now suggest that every reader do the same and put some pressure on them to resolve the problem. If they get enough bad publicity, they might pull their finger out and do something (sorry about the language) but I feel that we are being robbed of what we have paid for. If it can't be fixed, we should be compensated for not receiving the full product that we subscribed to.
|Thread: Replacing a Canon printer with a Brother Laser?|
My Brother MFC-L2700 printer/scanner/copier is about 7 years old. It has duplex printing, scanning and WIFI. I use 3rd party toner cartridges which are reasonably priced. Lost count of the number of pages printed but estimate about 20 - 30 thousand.
|Thread: Gauge glass dimensions|
Macc Models **LINK** sell gauge glass with diameters of 4, 5, 6 & 7mm
|Thread: Ian Bradley's Drill grinding jig|
I cannot help you with Bradley's drawings but this link to previouse posts may help with drill grinding jigs.
Paul, Sydney, Australia
|Thread: Anyone else having problems printing from Pocketmags this month?|
I have been having the same problem. Tried it on 2 different computers, using Firefox and MS Edge and contacted The Pocketmags help desk and received this answer:-
Thank you for your email!
We have recently been contacted by a large amount of publishers regarding a change in their piracy policies which we are trying to resolve. So some titles currently have printing suspended but we are working to get this feature back up and running as soon as possible.
We apologize for the inconvenience but with the upcoming changes we are looking to make page printing more user friendly and to allow for the PDF printing for a lot of titles.
Please note this is not permanent and will be available very soon.
Pocketmags Customer Service
|Thread: Barrier Creams|
See previouse posts
|Thread: Endmill smear of metal|
Depends on the direction of the cut (climb milling or conventional milling) but a sharp cutter can also leave a burr on the trailing edge, just smaller. (see video above)
Edited By Paul Lousick on 22/03/2021 07:19:17
The direction that you are cutting will effect the edge of the machined part.
If the endmill is cutting from the inside and finishing the cut at the edge of the part, you will get a burr but if the cut is started at the outer surface and the endmill cuts towards the inside, you will get a sharp edge.
As demonstrated by Joe Pieczynski in this Youtube video. **LINK**
|Thread: Minimum equipment for TE build|
If there are only a few parts that are too big for your mill or lathe, you could do them somewhere else. Join a model club and members will normally help you.
I did not want to make my own gears and bought them from a model supplier company. The engine is 6"scale and some parts were too big to do in my home workshop and did them elsewhere. For example, the rear wheels are 24" diameter and I had the rings rolled at a local engineering shop, fabricated them in my workshop and had machining done in a commercial shop.
|Thread: Collet chuck for Chester 920 Lathe|
You have to get a backplate to match your lathe and attach the collet chuck to it.
I use an ER32 collet holder with a 3MT on my mill. Also use it on my lathe as it also has a 3MT taper in the spindle. My rotary table is also 3MT which allows me to keep the job in the collet holder and transfer to another machine without losing its centre position.
Edited By Paul Lousick on 17/03/2021 04:12:03
|Thread: countersink advice|
Using a larger 2 flute drill bit to centre on the hole does not always work because it sometimes digs in more on one side than the other (both flutes have to be ground exactly the same to cut equally), producing an offset chamfer. Even worse with a long slender drill that can flex. Using a rigid cutter, held on centre with the hole is a better option. Or a cutter with 3 or more flutes if held by hand.
This type on the left works well, as it has a large flat area for locating on centre with the hole. For larger holes I use the type with a hole thru the side. (these are easy to sharpen by grinding the cone end)
Edited By Paul Lousick on 15/03/2021 03:06:31
|Thread: Water based rust inhibitor|
I protect newly machined or cleaned and dried parts that I want to protect from rusting and don't want to coat with oil (because they will be painted, silver solderred, etc) by wrapping in kitchen cling film. It also protects tham from bunps and scratches.
|Thread: mitre saw use for roughing out/ vertical milling mild steel?|
According to the Proxxon FF 400 User Manual
It can use commercially available milling cutters with a maximum shaft diameter of 12 mm and a tool diameter of max. 40mm can be used. For an optimum working result, it isnecessary to adjust the milling machine and the milling parameters (feed, depth of cut, speed) to the workingconditions and to choose these accordingly.
We can recommend the milling cutters from our accessory range such as the end-milling cutter set (2-5 mm) 24610 or, for larger jobs, the end-milling cutter set(6-10 mm), Item No. 24620
Therefore should be able to do a 4mm cut in mild steel.
|Thread: Slip gauges from Banggood|
There are bargans to be had when buying online but it is buyer beware. If it looks too good to be true, it's probably not true. I saw a photo of a great set of slip gauges which were adverlised as second hand but looked to be in great shape in the photo and bought it at a ridiculously low price. When it arrives it was exactly as advertised but I failed to read the advertisement coirrectly. I had bought a photo of a set of slip gauges. Grrr $$#@@**&&.
A good lesson and I'm much more careful now. I have purchase a couple of slip gauges that came with a certificate and use them for checking the accuracy of micrometers and gauges.
|Thread: HTML5 Reader?|
This has already been discussed in depth. Do a search on MEW for posts.
|Thread: disappearing forum archives|
Hi Les, If your worried about a thread disappearing and don't want to make paper prints, you can print to a pdf file instead and save it on your computer.
When reading posts that are of particular interest to me, on MEW and other sites, and want to keep them for future reference, I copy the parts that I want to keep and paste them into a Word document. Do it as you are reading thru a document and you don't have to remember where they came from.
|Thread: Bearing puller|
I only have an inexpensive gear puller which has served me well for 20 years. (this one advertised on ebay for $12.50) Also available from hardware stores and car accessory stores. (there must be similar stores in Italy where you can check the quality before buying)
|Thread: thresher belts|
The flat transmission belts in the link may all be made of canvas but that was not the first material to be used to make them.
Flat belts were usually made of leather in the mid-19th century. They also used ropes made of cotton, hemp, flax, or even wire. Power transmission with leather belts remained a popular solution until the start of the 20th century. Today, most power transmission belts consist of elastomer covers combined with a belt body made of synthetic polymers.
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