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Member postings for S.D.L.

Here is a list of all the postings S.D.L. has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What did you do today (2015)
22/12/2015 15:40:52
Posted by Clive Hartland on 22/12/2015 12:36:22:

Just had another chat to the Nephew and he has put part of the board outlets through another RCbo which I would think isolates some of the problems to one set of equipment and not knock out all the circuits.

So it appears that the upstairs will be out of the trip circuit and only the kitchen and one upstairs bedroom would be involved.

Thinking of the outside sensor light, that I have found out is on the garage ring main and not involved with the house.

Clive

Is the garage Fuse box / Circuit breaker box fed direct from the incoming fuses at the meter or from one way in the House Box?

Mine is a 40amp breaker in the house box feeding the box in the workshop.

Steve

21/12/2015 20:21:24

Posted by JasonB on 21/12/2015 19:39:28:

Quite common for fridge freezers to trip things, when I do a kitchen I get the sparks to put in a separate circuit just for the fridge & freezer, auto defrost ones do it quite a bit. The extra cost is negligible when you are fitting Sub-zero, Liebherr, etc

J

Also anything with heaters and water eg immersion heaters, washing machines, showers, kettles. is a good starting point for elcb trips.

Had my freezers put on their own RCbo circuits. So that trip on another circuit doesn't take out main rcd and do a forced defrost on the freezer when on holiday, learnt the lesson the hard way when pond took out main rcd.

Steve

21/12/2015 17:32:11
Posted by frank brown on 21/12/2015 17:18:07:

Bit like our case# 1, your fridge/freezer /central heating pump run 24/7 why night trip. Sounds like lecky board induced on, perhaps, a marginal circuit.

Frank

The freezer pump only runs on demand so try making the fridges and frezzers cycle by turning the freezer and refrigerator stat up and down. If a fridge freezer most but not all have separate compressors.

The central heating pump only runs when there is demand to heat hot water or the radiators.

There are bits like the motorised valves on the heating system that move then the pump runs or it moves whilst the pump is running but only for a minute so make the heating come on, increase the temperature on the wall stat to give demand and cycle pump and boiler on off with the stat.

Then put demand for hot water on and make sure that the tank stat is set high enough to give demand then check boiler and motorised valve cycles.

Steve

Thread: What direction should this forum be taking?
13/11/2015 22:03:50

Can most people not skip a thread they are not interested in??>>

I just look at the latest threads 2 times a day and skip the motorbike ones and others that I am uninterested in, but i love the Astronomy.>>

I particularly like the, what have I done today thread and don't care what the post is. You can always jump to the next post.>>

I have followed Garry’s build from the beginning and thoroughly enjoyed it but only commented once or twice when answering a question and I suspect like many just read and enjoy. I will be reading the next one on whichever forum he pops up on, but I still won’t be posting gushing how wonderful comments and using 200 moving and rolling emoticons.>>

All of the Forums have different characteristics but most carry on, despite the odd case of toys been thrown out the pram. Most toy throwers pop up on another forum to repeat in another year or two.>>

And every Forum has its ups and downs (Most entertaining argument ever was John from Bodges Lodge going head to head with Evan on the great circular saw cord debate a few years ago on the Home shop machinist site)>>

Steve

Thread: Any info on this tool post ?
19/09/2015 22:22:03

Posted by Steve Pavey on 19/09/2015 21:04:08:

Posted by Muzzer on 19/09/2015 16:57:46:

There are a couple of suppliers on ebay like this German guy but when you....

I plan to buy a set for my Bantam ("A" size) when the stars align and intend to get them from Create when Murray

That's interesting. I have an original Aa Multifix which I use on my Boxford and want to get a bigger set for the Harrison sometime soon. I'd more or less decided that Pewe were a better option than buying from Create in China because I thought the Chinese import would attract an import duty. Has anyone bought from Create and if so were there any unforseen import duties that you had to pay?

Just my opinion, but the Multifix is the best QC toolpost I have used - if I was the OP I would hang on to it and just buy the extra holders as and when I needed them.

I have bought two sets from create. They miss declare the value so there is no import duty just the cost of the customs clearance with the carrier usually about twenty five pounds.

I had a genuine Dickinson on my Colchester student that used to flex and jam when parting steel, since fitting the clone multifix will part steel and stainless like butter.

Steve

Thread: Round nose tipped carbide lathe tools
08/09/2015 22:16:48

The smaller diameter ones are also used for profiling railway wheels / tyres etc.

They work very well if not rammed in too hard.

Steve

Thread: Difference between face mill and indexable end mill?
08/09/2015 22:14:04

You want a face mill. Look at the sandvik ok ones on greenwood tools here

**LINK**

The action is very low cutting force, but will not cut to a shoulder. You can usually find them on eBay given time.

The mountings are available in all popula sizes MT, R8, int 30-40etc.

Much better than fly cutters for giving a good surface finish.

Steve

Thread: Draw bar thread size for a 2 MT Clarkson autolock milling chuck?
26/08/2015 10:51:28
Posted by Robbo on 26/08/2015 09:50:26:

3/8"BSW if Imperial, M10 if Metric

And some will be UNC

Steve

Thread: polishing in the lathe
07/08/2015 08:30:09

Posted by Bandersnatch on 06/08/2015 23:12:04:

Russell, Martin &Neil

I wasn't commenting, per-se, on whether the practice is safe or unsafe.

Rather that the HSE people used the fact that the Council had used this practice for years (without an apparent problem) as evidence that the Council was at fault for not detecting the problem.

Just seems pretty illogical to me .... or actually that they were trying to twist (not very successfully) the facts to fit a pre-determined conclusion.

Seems fairley obvious to me that the LEA assuming it's a LEA school haven't reviewed the H&S guidance on machines or they would have stopped using strips of emery years ago. Conclusion of HSE looks spot on. They have all the numbers to know the most dangerous activities based on hard evidence and give guidance on that. Talk to a real H&S expert and it's common sense, normally the issue is some jobs worth who uses H&S to get their way or who see danger in getting out of bed.

Steve

Thread: Lathe design not keeping up
29/06/2015 21:58:33

Posted by John Stevenson on 29/06/2015 14:08:02:

Good point Steve.

You have now got me thinking. I assumed [ yes we all know the saying ] it was Whit as this machine also has a load of 3/16" on it but checking as not familiar with numbered unified threads there is a #10 at 0.190 x 24 which is only a couple of thou up on 3/13" whit.

So far I haven't found any fine threads on this machine but I'm working at casting level which is ideal for course threads.

A quick check on some non cleaned up holes with a 1/4" whit and 1/4" UNC cap screw and both go in with the same fit. I know they shouldn't because of pitch angle but most screws are very loose on tolerance.

I need to find some fine threads to see the difference. However any extra bolts going into cleaned up tapped holes will be 1/4" whit as I have boxes and boxes of these but only a very few UNC's wink

Tapped holes on the DRO brackets will be metric as the rest of the DRO's are all metric.

[ EDIT ]

Found a large course grub screw that sets the end float on the start / stop shaft 1/2 x 13 so it is a UNC machine. Thanks Steve

Edited By John Stevenson on 29/06/2015 15:55:57

Just checked my Manual all 1/4 & 5/16 screws are UNC

The number ones are all 10-24

guess yours will be similar

Steve

29/06/2015 12:11:12
Posted by John Stevenson on 29/06/2015 01:14:58:

Ran a 1/4" whit tap thru most of mine to clear the crud out.

Just a note for some who may not be aware, some UK Colchesters are UNC/UNF so there is for example 5 choices for some tapped holes.

ie assuming it looks 6mm or 1/4" it could be 1/4BSW 1/4BSF, 1/4UNC 1/4UNF or M6.

My MkII student is UNC/UNF other than the bits that I have added that are metric.

Steve

Thread: Any ideas what these are?
05/06/2015 15:52:25
Posted by colin hawes on 02/06/2015 16:28:45:

I don't think there is any advantage at all in using Stellite for lathe tools as HSS is more than adequate for most work and carbide is best for cast iron. I use silver steel for small boring bars. Colin

Eccentric Engineering the makers of the diamond tool holders seem to think that class of material has its merits in model engineering as they have just started selling a similar material. see link below

**LINK**

Steve

Thread: My little engine (continued)
05/06/2015 15:45:42
Posted by Gary on 05/06/2015 14:45:28:

Hi Roy

I wish I could, but the Crankpin that the bearing fits is assembled and pinned between the Webs on the Crankshaft. If I had thought earlier I could maybe have made sure I had a bit of 'left over' Crankpin to use for this test fitting - I didn't recognise at the time though!

Something I'll watch out for in the future for sure - I do have some internal bore gauges so I hope I can manage..

Cheers.

Garry

Put your 3 jay back on.

Measure the shaft with your best micrometer.

Turn a bit of metal to the same diameter and put a 30 deg chamfer on end.

remove metal from chuck and put 4 jaw back on.

Use gauge just made to judge boring, the taper helps.

easier than internal measumrements.

Steve

Thread: Cutting BSPT threads with a die
01/05/2015 14:09:15

Posted by Mick Berrisford on 01/05/2015 12:29:53:

I want to replicate two radiator bypass hose connectors on a Suzuki Kettle I'm restoring in 303 stainless. They're 1/4" and 3/8" BSPT threads and I've never had to do taper threads before.

Do I just turn the bar parallel to the major thread diameters or should I be using the top slide to taper them up to the major diameter before using the die?. I have looked it up and know the sizes but I can't find any reference as to which is the best way to do things. The taper is 1 in 16 which would mean an angle of 1.5 ish degrees so would have to be a good guesstimate if I did it that way.

Edited By Mick Berrisford on 01/05/2015 12:31:46

Do as you suggest turn taper first then cut with BSPT die.

Steve

Thread: Raising the L5
07/04/2015 22:14:22

Get some universal channel 100 or 150 high as required weld up a frame, gusset top to bottom either side of fixings.

Bolt lathe to frame, lift and put machine mounts frame to floor for level ling.

frame probably ends up as two rectangles first one under head stock the 3 prices to side under tail stock

Steve

Thread: Parting Off MEW225
07/02/2015 10:35:45

In a previous job I volunteered to part off some 316 stst M24 bolts that were too long. I was actually designing things but there was no one free to do it and I had a Factory Acceptance Test the next day and knew that the Resident Engineer coming would reject them for too many threads sticking through.

So onto the Colchester Master front Dickinson post add a Sandvick parting tool. Feeding by hand and Bang tip gone. see Mick and get another tip second bolt, bang another tip gone. Mick says lets see what your doing. digs out the rear tool post and fits on with sandvik tool moved to back and up side down. puts it at about 400rpm and cuts with power feed.

I did the rest of the bolts in less time than I did the fist two. Micks view always part under power feed.

Fast forward to nowadays got a Colchester student MkII in the workshop (Garage) so big by Myford standards. It came with original Dickinson T2 quick change post, using a Sandvik parting blade it parted Brass and aluminum under power fine EN was ok some of the time, stainless was always a disaster. I was looking for s rear toolpost but eventually I saw that the tool holders pulled out and twisted when there was a jam and fired back into place. I replaced this with a Chinese version of the Multifix type. I got the money back by putting the Dickinson and holders on e-bay and the Multifix that is half the size of the Dickinson will part 2" 316 StSt as if its butter sat on the front.

My take is many tool posts are not as rigid as we think and power feed is the key with a tool that rolls the chips or swarf so that it is narrower than the groove being cut.

Steve

Thread: More reliable connectors
07/02/2015 10:14:05
Posted by John Shepherd on 07/02/2015 07:28:30:

There's a lot I don't know about crimping but I do know that the crimp and the wire must match and the only tool to use is one of the ratchet types designed for the crimp in use. Otherwise it's a disaster.

A grey area for me is use of crimps on solid wires and the voltage ratings of crimps. Can any one give some sound authorative advice on the subject of crimping please.

We use both bootlace crimps and the RYB eyelets, fork and blade crimps at work on lamp circuits that run at 950V 4A and have a strike voltage up to 2KV. this arrangement passes both UL and CE low voltage directive via independent test house in UK, so that should give some idea. They do insist on the correct ratchet tools that have to do a pull test on a sample every year or 6 months depending on use.

As others have said soldering ends of wires going into clamp terminals is a no no now days however neat it looks.

Best connection is the spring clamps found on many terminals and increasing numbers of components, gets rid of the screws working loose during shipping.

Steve

Thread: HSS
05/01/2015 21:52:56

Put a groove on each side with tool of choice ( offhand grinder, angle grinder dremmel etc) wrap in rag and put in vice with groove out of jaws, hit with big hammer. If doesn't break get bigger hammer.

Steve

Thread: Latest boiler regs?
05/01/2015 21:47:48

Posted by fizzy on 04/01/2015 20:55:28:

Not looked at the green book in a while but pretty sure there is nothing akin to this in it. Indeed why would there be? So long as the boiler is safe and to spec what you do with the steam is your business...ah, it drives me mad!!

It's not just the boiler being tested under the PSS2000 its a system test. Green book 1.2

Green Book clause. 3.13a states that system is "boiler shell including fittings and pipework"

Fittings are defined in 3.3 and include saftey valves and regulators etc.

In essence the whole system has to satisfy the inspector not just the boiler she'll, at the end of the day it's the inspectors nuts on the line.

Steve

Thread: One for the thinkers?
27/12/2014 19:38:01

Posted by fastjohnrs on 27/12/2014 19:27:31:

If they have the same amount of play I'd imagine they'd knock the same, unless the difference in weight of components has a part to play, be interesting to see what other people think

 

For any class of fit the amount of clearance or interference increases with diameter so what may be sloppy on a small shaft would be proportionally tighter on a bigger shaft.

Steve.

 

Edited By JasonB on 28/12/2014 07:25:30

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